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Showing results 1 to 25 of 25 Search: Liked Posts
Forum: Post Your Photos! 05-05-2013, 01:41 PM  
Abstract daisy
Posted By guus giesbergen
Replies: 4
Views: 770
Forum: Pentax Q 02-01-2013, 10:03 PM  
The "reach" of the Q - images
Posted By hnikesch
Replies: 1,223
Views: 252,607
We were off to the dog races this afternoon, Q with SMC-M 135 f3.5 shot at 5.6 with Photodiox adapter with aperture control painted hand held

Hans
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 08-22-2011, 05:41 PM  
Pentax 135-600 F/6.7 - holy crap!
Posted By gofour3
Replies: 13
Views: 6,817
All the old original K series zoom lenses (K45-125/4, K85-210/4.5, K85-210/3.5 and the K135-600/6.7) had a terrible minimum focusing distance. The K135-600/6.7 had a minimum focusing distance of 6 meters! Attaching the K135-600’s dedicated close-up lens reduced the minimum focusing distance to 3.3 meters. (Of course the maximum was reduced to 6 meters when you used the attachment, so your range was 3.3 to 6 meters)

Phil.
Forum: Pentax Q 01-16-2013, 09:09 PM  
Pentax Q street shots - post them here.
Posted By systemA
Replies: 254
Views: 77,233
Having a go at BW/double exps:

















Forum: Pentax Q 05-26-2012, 03:25 PM  
New Pentax red dot finder on Q with DA*300- img.
Posted By AldAsAck
Replies: 209
Views: 48,590
Dear all,

After having the Pentax q in my arsenal for only about a week, I think Igot the Pentax Q virus.

I tried hard to get some good moon shots with the Pentax k5 and the Da 300.

For best sharpnes I did it last winter at the middle of the night and it was icy cold.

Today evening at abou 10 pm I saw a half moon not the best clarity and I thoght, that it was worth a try.

And here is the outcome, which is MUCH better than anything I was able to get with the DA and K5 so far.

moon3xxxyz | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

moon2b | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
Forum: Pentax Q 12-29-2012, 02:23 AM  
New Metz flash issues with Q
Posted By wanderography
Replies: 5
Views: 1,664
I use yongnuo flashes with cowboy sutdio triggers with ease on my K-01, with the Q I cant even get them to fire, not with the triggers, not with the flash mounted, no way... I have given up on flash use with the Q...
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 02-17-2012, 03:42 PM  
How to replace CCD on my ist DL?
Posted By pezmaker
Replies: 5
Views: 6,824
well, here's an exploded view of it, at least. As to how to break it down without breaking it, good luck...

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-dslr-discussion/48910-pentax-ist-d...oded-view.html
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 11-16-2012, 09:35 AM  
Infrared conversion
Posted By alexcox
Replies: 12
Views: 4,108
Since a number of Pentax users have complained about attempting to get IR camera conversions done by a company in Utah, I should report on an excellent experience I just had with a company in Massachusetts: Digital Silver Imaging.

I sent DSI my old K10D about a month ago for IR conversion. The camera was returned to me in less than two weeks, with the camera cleaned and the conversion done. The result was excellent. Since I shoot mostly very wide (10-17mm zoom and 15mm prime) DSI asked me to send them the camera with the fisheye zoom attached so that they could calibrate it for wide lenses. This they did.

They charged me $260, but till the end of November they're having a sale and will convert DSLRs and hybrids for $199.

(I'm not affiliated with the company but really like what they did!) Here's a sample: there are a couple more in my gallery.
Forum: Pentax Q 11-15-2012, 07:51 PM  
Yet more questions about the Q firmware updates.
Posted By panoguy
Replies: 36
Views: 4,425
It's for the K-series DSLRs. If you activate Auto Exposure Bracketing in M Mode, by default the camera will change the aperture to get each exposure step, but I wanted it to change the shutter speed (and this was for multi-directional panoramas, so using Av mode would have screwed things up with metering).

Many years ago drougge pointed out that changing the Green Button function in M mode to be Tv shift (instead of the default Program Line) also changes how the AEB works in that mode. Very strange that they are connected, but that's the secret sauce to HDR panos with Pentax.
Forum: Pentax Q 11-28-2012, 08:28 PM  
Pentax Q - Cmount lenses. Recommendations?
Posted By Shawn67
Replies: 20
Views: 15,066
Are you looking for wide angle or telephoto C mount?

These are Pentax branded lenses...


Some Computars..



And the rest (last two are D mounts)



As far as the adapters I would personally go with the 2 piece adapters, not solid adapters. First, the two piece allows you to orient the aperture scale to always be upright. Second, and more importantly, I find that the registration distance varies somewhat between C mount lenses. Some need to be slightly further away, some need to be closer. The two piece adapters let you shim or reduce them if needed to dial in a lens. For this reason I leave an adapter on each of the lenses I typically will use the most.

As far as the lenses themselves....The Pentax lenses are all pretty nice. The 4.8mm f1.8 Pentax/Cosmicar fixed focus lens is a great FOV on the Q. It took some work to get that lens to be sharper as the adapter needed to be shimmed. The 6mm is good too but a little odd in that focus shifts when stopped down. I haven't used the 12.5 much yet but it seems like it could work for portraits. The 25 1.4 is sharp with a very circular bokeh.

The Computar 25s are very soft at 1.3 but are sharper around 2.8. The 25 f0.95 is sharper at 0.95 than the Computars and it can have a very great look to it with razor thin DOF if shooting close up. I haven't tried the computar 8.5 yet (have 01 prime). The 3.6mm f1.2 Computar I am working on dialing in better. It needs to be closer to the camera than the mount is allowing so I have to sand one down slightly until that gets are sharp as it can.

The fixed focus Tamron 6.5mm looks like it may be interesting too. I need to spend a little more time with that one making sure the mount is correct for it.

Of the two D mounts the 6.5mm vingettes pretty badly and I haven't used the 13mm much yet.

Comparing the Pentax/Cosmicar against the Computar's the Pentax lenses seem to be optically a little better and for the most part feel better built. They also have better IRISs in them, the Computar as 3 bladed and have a triangular IRIS when stopping them down.

Shawn
Forum: Pentax Q 09-09-2011, 07:35 AM  
Various adapters for Pentax Q
Posted By Univer
Replies: 19
Views: 10,426
Hi,

Yes, D-mount is the most common 8mm ciné mount (15.875mm thread, 12.29mm register distance). Anyone with an interest in acquiring some of these lenses for eventual adaptation to a "Q" would be well advised to start right now; my working assumption is that the usual eBay dealer "suspects" are already scouring the listings, hoping to corner the market. That was their M.O. with respect to high-quality 16mm ciné lenses, when the C-to-m4/3 format adapters started to appear, and I would expect history to repeat itself.

One note of caution, for anyone brave enough to embark on such an enterprise: while the 16mm C-mount is a more-or-less settled, stable standard, things get a little more complicated when you get into the world of 8mm. For example, the excellent Kern lenses fitted to Bolex H8 cameras (8mm format) actually use the physical C-mount thread; but the register distance is shorter than that of the "true" 16mm C-mount format. And there's also the CS-mount format - often encountered in surveillance camera applications - which uses the C-mount thread as well, but with a still shorter register distance.

Since the H8 Kerns are, by all odds, the most desirable of the 8mm-format lenses, it may well be - if the Q system is successful - that some clever entrepreneur will offer Q adapters made specifically for them: C-mount thread but H8 register. CS-mount adapters would be a possibility as well. I can even imagine a single adapter with switchable flanges to suit all three of the C-mount thread systems; there exist adapters for C-mount lenses, for instance, that come with optional flanges for Robot lenses.

One thing's for sure: the early pioneers who decide to venture into this uncharted territory will have some interesting experiences, both good and bad, with respect to things like vignetting, sensor coverage and physical incompatibilities. That was certainly the case with the first users of C-mount lenses on m4/3 bodies - still is, to be perfectly honest.

Cheers,

Jon

PS As for T2 (any T-mount) lenses: if there's an M42 or Nikon adapter, couldn't you simply use a common M42 or Nikon T-adapter for any T-mount lens you wanted to try?
Forum: Do-It-Yourself 10-22-2012, 05:02 AM  
D.I.Y. Fixing a Sigma broken Hot-Shoe for $10
Posted By bdparker
Replies: 6
Views: 10,850
Well that is what the foot part cost $10 Aus from C.R.Kennedy Melbourne.

Since this is the second time I have done a D.I.Y fixit, I thought I would do it as a tutorial with lots pics, all images are click-able for a bigger version on Flikr.

P.S. Moderators... if this is in the wrong place, please move it (will delete this line later)

The new foot I believe is backward compatible with most of the Sigma flashes from the 450 to the 610, but the rest of the base may not be (the wiring connection is a different size in some cases).


IMGP5921 (800x533) by bdparker67, on Flickr

So here we go..... The usual disclaimer applies, you are responsible for your own actions, this is only a guide... seek professional help if unsure:)
Take your time, take notes and go gently.

My Demonstration is on the EF-610 DG Super it may be different for the other versions.

1. Unscrew the four screw on the base and gently remove the base from the back first (the Inferred assist light is what is catching under the body).
be careful not to pull it off to far and damaging the connector and thin wires.


IMGP5928 (800x532) by bdparker67, on Flickr

2. Unplug the connector, Take note of which way it is plugged in (although it only goes one way)


IMGP5929 (800x532) by bdparker67, on Flickr

3. remove the two short screws and lift off the IR assist light.


IMGP5933 (800x533) by bdparker67, on Flickr

4. Take note at which way the circuit board is sitting and unscrew the one at a time, with finger pressure on the board before the last one. It is spring loaded and you don't want to lose any of the four spring or the little metal connectors.


IMGP5934 (800x532) by bdparker67, on Flickr

5. When you lift the circuit board off this is what you see, remember (Your) spring and connector locations and where the earth connection comes our.


IMGP5936 (800x532) by bdparker67, on Flickr

6.Gently remove the foot be careful not to break the black wire and this what you should see.


IMGP5937 (800x533) by bdparker67, on Flickr

7. Now the easy bit... remove the earth connector, the springs and connectors and the ring (remember which way everything comes off and goes on...) everything only works one way...


IMGP5941 (800x532) by bdparker67, on Flickr

Now the assembly.

8. Change the fool and screw the ring all the way down (not tight) because there is a anti lock tab on the other face will stop you from locking the flash properly on you camera if it sits to hight when you assemble... insert you connectors and springs the way they came out..


IMGP5945 (800x533) by bdparker67, on Flickr IMGP5949 (800x533) by bdparker67, on Flickr IMGP5950 (800x533) by bdparker67, on Flickr

9. Put the earth back in and attach the foot to the base.... it should only locate one way.
Here is a tricky bit. There are hole two hole in the circuit board and two matching lugs in the base that should go together. When you screw these together, hold the circuit board down (located correctly on the lugs) and I suggest screwing the first screw in that is closest to the lugs, this should hold the assembly together in the right place while your continue with the other screw in a cross pattern.


IMGP5953 (800x532) by bdparker67, on Flickr

10. plug the connector back in to the socket, make sure it is seated correctly.


IMGP5929 (800x532) by bdparker67, on Flickr

11. and guide the IR assist light back into the body first (the way it came out).


IMGP5954 (800x533) by bdparker67, on Flickr

12. Screw the base back on and there we have it... Almost like new.


IMGP5955 (800x533) by bdparker67, on Flickr

Good luck
Forum: Pentax Q 10-08-2012, 10:43 PM  
Shots of Q10
Posted By i83N
Replies: 0
Views: 913
Q10
Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio 04-18-2011, 09:59 PM  
Control vs Master vs Slave units?
Posted By Ash
Replies: 5
Views: 8,135
:D

The manual won't go into much detail of those terms - there is some assumed knowledge in it.
Nevertheless, you'll learn a lot by searching wireless flash on the net.
But basically, control means the flash unit that tells the off-camera (wireless) flash to fire (this is the slave flash), but does not contribute to the lighting during the exposure (acts only as a trigger); and master does the same thing but does contribute to the exposure lighting according to what FEC is set (or if you've set it to a manual intensity).

The inbuilt flash or a hotshoe mounted flash can be the master or control, and the off-camera flash unit is the slave; but you can get nifty and use a P-TTL hotshoe extension cord to get two flash units off-camera, the wired one still being the master, and the remote one being the slave, but you have a different lighting setup. :)

BTW, you can't set the remote flash to be the master - once you've synced it with the camera and take it off the hotshoe, the wireless mode flicks on and the flash automatically goes to become a slave.
Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II 04-04-2012, 06:10 AM  
Live View/ Video Problem with Helios 44k-4
Posted By drougge
Replies: 9
Views: 2,135
While the video doesn't answer my qiestion as such, it does look like the problem I think it is. I don't have a K-5 to test with at the moment, so I have to ask stupid questions.

So, here's another attempt at the same question: Using a lens where it works properly (like your Pentax M50/1.7), if you enable live view and then take the lens off the camera, is live view still on? I'll answer both possibilities, to save time:

If the camera is still in live view with no lens on, I don't know what the problem is, sorry.

If the camera does turn off live view when you take the lens off, that's what happening with your 44K (the camera thinks you took the lens off). And the only way the camera knows if a lens is mountes is with the electrical contacts on the mount. Thus, your lens is sometimes shorting them and sometimes not. If polishing isn't enough, add something conductive.

Of course, I'm pretty sure it is this problem even if my testing method turns out not to give the right results. Some aluminum foil should be easy to test with, if a little inconvenient in the long run.
Forum: Pentax K-r 03-12-2012, 03:42 AM  
S Type Screen focusingscreen.com - Unboxing, Installation and Review
Posted By ablundon
Replies: 29
Views: 12,086
Not sure if it will be helpful or not but I decided to do a video of my unboxing and installation of a Canon S Type focusing screen from focusingscreen.com.

I also compare the new screen with the stock screen.
















You Tube




It might be a little long winded but I think it is very thorough.

I would appreciate any feed back as it is my first You Tube video.

Thanks,
AB
Forum: Pentax K-01 03-07-2012, 04:02 PM  
K-01 hands-on + test videos
Posted By crewl1
Replies: 13
Views: 2,338
See














You Tube



Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 10-22-2009, 03:09 AM  
Caution For Helios 44 Fans and Potential Buyers
Posted By georgweb
Replies: 80
Views: 125,568
Interesting Steve, and of course you made me check my 44-3:



I remember that it worked OK with the M42 adapter on the K100D. That flange on the 44-3 that you have posted presents a challenge for grinding.
Same with M42 Mamiya Sekor SX lenses, and in a similar fashion all post-AI-lenses from Nikon (cause otherwise these are most usable on Pentax
K-mount without any adapter) - still thinking about grinding the outer bayonet of the cam - not by much and it would be SX and AI compatible :-)

My 44-3 must be a 1990 version, as you can see by the serial number 90xxx. The logo is Belomo, just like Steve said.


Mother Biotar and her daughters: These lenses all share the exact same lens scheme - diff. in aperture and coating, though (all @f/4)
All the best, Georg (the other)
Forum: Photographic Technique 01-28-2012, 06:06 AM  
Extreme Macro
Posted By veato
Replies: 38
Views: 6,428
Fitted the Kirk flash bracket (with Giottos mini ball head for better flash positioning) on the camera with flash, diffuser, tubes and the 50mm to see how it all goes together......





Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 01-23-2012, 07:26 AM  
Does the 17-70 lens hood fit 16-45?
Posted By sjuic
Replies: 8
Views: 2,027
I have both!
Yes PH-RBM from 17-70 is working like PH-RBL on 16-45 and vice versa.
Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio 01-11-2011, 06:15 PM  
Cactus V5 radio flash trigger review
Posted By Class A
Replies: 274
Views: 103,998
Cactus V5 Review

Gadget Infinity, the company that brought us the Cactus V4 flash radio triggers created a significantly improved V5 version.


What is it?

One V5 unit can function as a
  • Flash/Strobe radio trigger transmitter

  • Flash/Strobe radio trigger receiver

  • Wireless remote trigger for a camera

  • Safe-sync hot shoe adapter for high-voltage flashes

  • Flash stand

This versatility is quite an improvement over the Cactus V4.
See section “Discussion” below for an elaboration of the above mentioned functionalities.

Highlight Features
  • Rock solid performance (100m range, automatic temperature adaptation)

  • Sync-speed up to 1/1000s

  • Compatible with old flashes (flash trigger voltage range of 0—300V)

  • Compatible with low-voltage flashes (e.g., Pentax) even in cold weather

  • Both female tripod thread and male hot shoe with a locking mechanism

  • Female hot shoe still usable in transmitter mode

  • No exotic batteries. Rechargeable AAAs work as well

  • Low-battery indicator

  • Easy channel selection during operation

  • Multi-channel mode

In particular in combination, the last two features are a game changer! They open up completely new applications. See bullet “Handling” in section “Discussion” below for an elaboration.

Specifications
  • Radio frequency: 2.4 GHz

  • Channels: 16 (1—5 allow multi-channel operation)

  • Max. sync speed: 1/1000s

  • Maximum effective distance: 100 m (conservative figure)

  • Operating Temperature: -20°C to +50°C

  • Flash trigger voltage supported: 0–300V

  • Power: 2 x AAA 1.5V batteries/rechargeables

  • Dimensions: 82mm x 70mm x 37mm (LxWxH) (including stand)

  • Weight: 58g


What’s in the Box?
In addition to a user manual and a "When the Light Dances 2" album (showing sample photos with corresponding strobist lighting diagrams), a V5 Duo box contains the following:


Features and Controls



Discussion
Handling
The ease of handling the V5 is one of its absolute highlights. First, the mode switch (“Tx” = Transmitter, “Rx” = Receiver, “Off”) is at the side and can be accessed while a flash is mounted. One can even change the batteries while the unit is in use (e.g., part of a flash stand rig). The battery compartment slides in and out with a click action similar to an SD card mechanism.


The Cactus V5 review by Brian Hursey features a video demonstrating the battery compartment action.

The best part, however, is that channel selection is not done via DIP switches but through a channel dial at the side that can be accessed while the unit is in use.


This means one can set up multiple flashes in the room and then dynamically choose one flash by dialling in the right channel on the transmitter on camera. This way one can move around with the camera and always choose a flash that will not be seen in the image or that just gives the best light for a particular moment.

Furthermore, for flashes/strobes set to channels 2–5 (marked in blue on the channel selection dial) one can choose to fire them individually or all at once. The latter is achieved simply by setting the transmitter to channel 1. This is very handy for multi-strobe setups to support testing each strobe’s contribution individually first and then simply let them fire all, once one is satisfied with the direction and levels of all individual strobes.

Further “goodies” include the ability for half-pressing the test button. Such a half-press will be confirmed with the LED lighting up in amber rather than in green. Receivers set to the same channel (or on channels 1–5 for multi-channel operation) will just respond with their LED lighting up in amber. This allows verification of channel settings, etc., without actually firing flashes.


The same LED can also light up in red. It does this – blinking slowly – to indicate a low-battery status. A nice touch to receive an advance warning instead of being surprised by dead batteries.

Reliability
The maximum distance between transmitter and receivers is specified to be 100m but this seems to be a very conservative figure. In a trial setup the triggers still worked 150—170m apart.


This was achieved in lowish temperature and with a receiver containing rechargeable Sanyo Eneloops which were close to depletion. Very impressive performance and heads and shoulders above the Cactus V4! It is unlikely that anyone will actually need the triggers to work at such distances but it is good to have this sensitivity safety margin for buildings with thick walls and difficult reception conditions. A tester even found the V5 to have more reach than the PocketWizards. The PocketWizards only worked at 50% of their advertised range and it is unknown why.

Tester Jared Luke tested the V5 at 7fps and they did not miss a beat. Tester Rudy's measurements confirm that the Cactus V5 could support up to 39 fps!

Compared to the Cactus V4, performance was not only improved in terms of reach but also in terms of temperature robustness. The V5 uses an FST (frequency self-tune) mechanism behind the scenes which automatically compensates for frequency drift due to drastic temperature changes. This means the triggers will work in a temperature range of -20ºC to +50ºC and may only require a bit of settling in time until the FST has automatically made the necessary adjustments. Tester Rudy confirmed operation at -10ºC.

Compatibility
The V5 allows the usage of old high trigger-voltage flashes as it supports a trigger voltage range of 0—300V. This means one can purchase almost any flash, old or new, and the V5 will work with it. In contrast, many other triggers exclusively support either a 0—12V or a 12—300V range only.

Unlike the Cactus V4, the V5 does not support flashes with reversed polarity. In my opinion that is a plus rather than a minus since it means that Pentax flashes will not require a modification anymore in order to work in cold temperatures. Flashes with reversed polarity are very rare and not being able to use them is a very small price to pay for supporting modern flashes with a very low flash trigger voltage in low temperature.

Camera remote trigger
The required camera remote trigger cable is camera-specific and an optional accessory. Luckily, for Pentax users the required cable is a standard 3.5mm male to 2.5mm male audio adapter cable, such as this one. With a receiver connected to the camera, the trigger button on a transmitter set to the same channel essentially becomes the shutter release button of the camera. In other words, half-press for AF (also works continuously in AF-C mode, as long as AF is assigned to shutter button half-press), bulb mode, rapid firing, combination with self-timer, etc. are all supported.

If the camera is set to bulb mode, the shutter will be open as long as the user presses the trigger button on the remote transmitter. However, to save the user from keeping the button pressed for extended periods of time, after two seconds, there is a change in operation. The transmitter signals this mode change by turning off the green confirmation light. After that, the user can let go of the button. A further press of the button after an arbitrary time, will close the shutter again. In a way one gets the best of both worlds: a) easy “shutter-closed while button pressed”-mode for the first two seconds and b) convenient “shutter-opens on first press, shutter-closes on second press”-mode for longer exposures. The receiver is rated to keep the camera shutter button pressed for 12 hours non-stop with a fresh set of AAA alkaline batteries.

The automatic mode change may turn out to be problematic when a number of exposures need to be made around the two second mark, sometimes ending before and sometimes ending after it. Practice will show whether this may be a real world problem and/or another mode change timeout amount would be preferable.

On-camera flash
Even when a V5 is used as a transmitter, e.g., on the hot shoe of a camera, the female hot shoe continues to work. This means one can not only trigger flashes remotely but also fire a flash on camera flash, e.g., as a fill flash.


Note that a V5 in Tx (transmitter) mode shields the camera from any high flash trigger voltage. It thus effectively works as a Safe-Sync hot shoe and hence allows using old high trigger voltage flashes on camera. A respective device costs $47.19 and does not offer all the other cool features of the V5!

Mounting Options
The V5 features a female tripod thread and a male hot shoe. The latter has a locking mechanism and hence allows safe operation even in tilted setups, such as on umbrella swivels. The locking mechanism of all my flashes worked fine with the female hot shoe of the V5 and allowed adventurous setups. Brian Hursey’s review contains a video demonstrating the secure fit.


The V5 may also function as a flash stand, if used on the supplied flash stand. One can, of course, also use the flash stand for a flash.


Again, such a flash stand may cost $8.95 on its own. Admittedly, the Nikon AS-19 seems to be sturdier but the V5 flash stand does the job just fine.

Transceiver Design
A V5 unit is a transceiver, i.e., it can be used as a transmitter or receiver, depending on user choice. The one disadvantage this entails is that a receiver cannot have a male hot shoe with an integrated female tripod thread (without involving costly solutions). An integrated tripod thread would avoid the potential mounting challenges resulting from this (see “Room for Improvement?” below). However, the transceiver design also has advantages:
  • the manufacturer only needs to design, produce and stock one device. The respective cost savings translate into a more competitive price for the user.

  • if a transmitter breaks, one can continue shooting by turning a receiver into a replacement transmitter.

  • one can reassign receiver/transmitter roles depending on current needs, e.g., if multiple photographers participate in a shoot.

  • A superfluous transmitter can be used as a camera trigger, etc.

Note that a V5 Duo box only contains one set of connection cables (see above “What’s in the box?”). This means that buying two receivers at once in a V5 Duo box only fully works if one a) can fire sufficiently many flashes by using the V5 female hot shoes, or b) purchases extra connection cables as an accessory.

Compared To

Cactus V4
The Cactus V4 remains a very attractive choice because of its low price, compatibility with old flashes (0—300V voltage trigger range) and the fact that the receivers accept AAA batteries. The transmitter uses a special L1028 12V battery which lasts for a year though.

Although the V5 loses the ability to support flashes with reversed polarity, as mentioned above this is more than made up for by the fact that Pentax flashes now always work without requiring a modification anymore.

My main niggle with the V4 was the fact that if one forgot to turn the receiver on, there was no way to do it after a flash had been mounted on the hot shoe. The V5 solves that problem by locating the on/off (mode selector) switch at the side.

Even though I never needed more than the ~15m range the V4 have given me, the 100m range of the V5 instil a lot more confidence regarding reliability and I am sure the V5 will be used in many professional settings.

Unfortunately, the V5 are a bit more fuzzy about a minimal distance between transmitter and receiver than the V4 were. This may only be a problem in cases when one could use a flash cable anyhow, but why be forced to buy a flash cable if radio triggers could continue to work?

Luckily, by setting the V5 to channel 16, I got them to work in close proximity to each other, such as triggering a flash on a flash bracket –
– or in macro situations.

The featured bottle is tiny and the flash is on the left hand side, extremely close to the camera.

The V5 are considerable bigger than the V4.


In use this is not a problem at all but it means that the V5 take up considerable more space in a camera bag. On the flip side, the V5 have no protruding antenna thus eliminating any related accidents involving camera straps, etc. Note that the V5 are still smaller than PocketWizards Plus II (approximately 8cm * 6cm * 3.5cm compared to 3.6cm * 5.4cm * 10.2 cm).

Yongnuo RF-602
The Yongnuo RF-602 also features long range operation and can function as a camera trigger but it does not reach 1/180 sync speed on Pentax cameras without tricks/modifications. Its maximum trigger voltage of 12V prohibits the use of older high trigger voltage flashes. A major disadvantage compared to the V5 is the inability to change the channel on the fly. I find the dynamic flash selection ability of the V5 to be one of its main attractive features.

Yongnuo RF-603
The upcoming Yongnuo RF-603 features a TTL pass-through functionality (for on-camera flashes only) but has been heavily criticised for having no locking mechanism on the male hot shoe. It does not feature a female tripod thread. Again, dynamic flash selection through a handy channel dial is not supported. As the RF-602, it is a camera-specific trigger, which I consider to be a disadvantage.

Flash Wave
In the past, when budget triggers had reliability problems, the Flashwaves where a good choice for those who needed the reliability and were prepared to spend considerably more money. Nowadays, other triggers have caught up. I don't think we'll see any complaints about reliability with the Cactus V5. I find the Flash Wave III a bit pricey for what they offer:
  • US $129.95 compared to the US $59.95 for the Cactus V5 Duo.

  • Advertised range more than twice the advertised range of the Cactus V5.

  • remote camera trigger functionality only releases shutter but cannot AF (based on an older version. I do not know about the latest FW III version.)

  • Transmitter uses special CR2450, 23A battery.

  • Does not mount on a female hot shoe.

  • Channel selection via tiny DIP switches.


Room for Improvement?

The V5 does not support passing TTL information between camera and flashes. It does not even provide a TTL pass-through feature for on-camera flashes. However, given the choice between on-camera TTL pass-through and the Safe-Sync functionality of the V5, I would choose the latter any day. Supporting both at the same time might be difficult. A TTL pass-through would make the triggers camera-specific which I regard as a disadvantage. In any event, just as real programmers don’t eat quiche, real strobists don’t use TTL. :) Seriously, I find manual control of flashes gives me the best and most consistent results. A remote flash power control feature would be quite something but I do not think TTL-support for on-camera flash only is an essential feature and/or worth paying the money for. If, for whatever reason, one needs a TTL pass-through on cameras with a sync port one can put the flash on the camera hot shoe and have the transmitter be triggered through the sync port. The one advantage I can think of a TTL pass-through has, is that it would allow usage of an AF assist light of the flash. Other features that are enabled by dedicated hot-shoes, e.g., rear curtain shutter, would only make real sense if the receiver supported TTL as well.

Cactus V4 owners may be sad to hear that the two trigger systems are not compatible with each other, i.e., V4 receivers will not listen to V5 transmitters and vice versa. Maintaining the compatibility would have been nice but is technically impossible with a switch from the 433MHz to the better 2.4GHz system. However, one can use both V5 and V4 transmitters in tandem (e.g., V4 transmitter on top of a V5 transmitter) in case one wants/needs to reuse existing V4 receivers.

The above image appears in Karel Donk's V5 review.

The multi-channel functionality is great but it could have easily been made even better by designating a certain receiver channel (e.g., channel 1) to always fire if the transmitter is set to any of the “blue” channels 1–5. This would have supported the use of a “common light” group of flashes that is constantly involved in all scenarios while one selectively adds different accent/key lights on channels 2–5. Maybe we will see such more elaborate uses of multi-channel functionality in future products.

A further “Interlink”/“Relay” mode would have been nice. In such a mode, a transceiver can be used to trigger a camera and a remote trigger for flashes, e.g., by automatically switching to transmitter mode one channel higher up after having fired the camera. This way one would need one V5 unit less to remote control a camera that fires remote flashes.

Some users may wish for an automatic power-off feature, which is absent from the V5. In my experience, however, such auto-features always get in the way when you least need it to happen. It is easy enough to develop a routine of turning off devices after usage and I much prefer the occasional depleted rechargeable set of batteries over misfires because the receivers powered themselves off.

The V5 have a higher power consumption than the V4. This is to be expected because they are a much more complex unit with a lot more features. The transmitter draws 2mA and the receiver 22mA when sitting idle (measurements courtesy by Rudy).

The size of the V5 male hot shoe locking mechanism makes operating it easier but in combination with the different vertical placement of the female tripod thread it can create a mounting challenge on some tripods, quick-release plates or spigots.


One might argue that removing the height difference between tripod thread and male hot shoe could fix the problem is visualised above but this would prevent the V5 to be mounted on cameras with a bulging built-in flash housing (such as the Olympus E-5). One can address the problem by using an additional flash stand, such as the Gissin AS-21, with an integrated tripod thread.

There will be some tension applied to a V5 unit mounted on a spigot and heavy equipment on the female hot shoe since the hot shoe is not aligned with the female tripod thread. However, the unit seems sturdy enough to survive such stress without harm.

Ideally, there would be a mode switch “Tx/Rx” separate from an “on/off” switch. This would allow a) leaving a unit in a dedicated mode, just turning it on and off, and b) switching the unit off in darkness and/or without paying attention. The current mode switch demands a bit of attention when switching the unit off because the “off” position is in the middle and cannot be set by simply pushing the switch to a stop.


Summary
The Cactus V5 is a significant improvement over the Cactus V4 which were already very attractive triggers.

Pros:
  • Excellent handling (easy access to on/off switch and batteries)

  • Dynamic selection of flashes during a shoot

  • Single or group selection of flashes

  • Safe on-camera flash usage while triggering other flashes

  • Works as a wireless camera trigger

  • No more exotic batteries, even rechargeable AAAs work

  • Low-battery indicator

  • High compatibility (0—300V trigger voltage and Pentax compatibility)

  • Hot shoe lock and female tripod thread

  • Great range and cold weather performance

  • High maximum sync-speed

  • 2.4GHz operational frequency does not interfere with radio emission of some flashes (e.g. the Canon EX series).

  • Flash stand included

Cons:
  • Tripod thread location may create mounting challenges

  • A bit large in the bag

  • Minimum distance between transmitter and receiver could be lower
    (has not been a problem in practice, though)

  • Incompatible to Cactus V4

  • Higher power-consumption compared to Cactus V4

  • No on-camera TTL pass-through for the transmitter

In closing, I can wholeheartedly recommend the Cactus V5. There are many more “pros” than “cons”. I especially like the ability to change the transmitter channel and thus the flashes addressed while moving around with the camera.

The few “cons” are the result of necessary compromises and completely addressing them (if possible at all) would no doubt make it tough to sell the V5 Duo for US $59.95. That's a bit more than the US$ 39.95 for a Cactus V4 transmitter/receiver pair (the Cactus V4 will not be phased out). The US $20 seem well justified for the additional features. A single Cactus V5 will be US $34.95. The release date is January 24, 2011 (PST).

The V5 will be the right choice for those who appreciate the V4 features but need/want the extra flexibility, increased range, improved reliability, extended compatibility, excellent handling, and new application scenarios provided by the V5.
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 01-15-2012, 10:28 PM  
Have Kr wife said OK to K5!!
Posted By crewl1
Replies: 7
Views: 1,283
My son has a K-r and although I have not spent to much time with it the bigger advantages I see are:
quieter shutter
direct controls on the body vs via menu
TAV setting
more solid construction
faster FPS
locking mode dial
top lcd display
two control wheels

I did not see a big difference in the AWB performance.
Forum: Sold Items 01-01-2012, 09:32 AM  
For Sale - Sold: Pentax SMC DA* 200mm f/2.8 ED [IF] SDM
Posted By Heie
Replies: 18
Views: 5,163
dieda, can I give you a lens? I know it isn't much, but I have an extra 18-55 WR that I haven't gotten around to selling, but if you had all that stolen, it would be better than trying to make $150 off it, and it should at the very least replace a lot of your lost focal ranges of shooting. I live in Germany.
Forum: Pentax K-r 07-07-2011, 03:22 AM  
dust in viewfinder
Posted By Brydzo
Replies: 5
Views: 2,989
I had the same problem - dust on the focusing screen.

Removing the focusing screen to clean it is a very easy thing. I was scared to do it for the first time, but now i can do it effortlessly. Just be careful and all will be fine :)

Here's a video showing how it's done in K10D, K-r in this manner is the same thing.















You Tube



Forum: Pentax K-r 05-30-2011, 10:37 AM  
K-r E-dial repair
Posted By Predictor
Replies: 24
Views: 30,623
There is a frequent issue with the e-dial of K-r. When it is being rotated it does not switch corresponding parameter (apperture, exposure time) at all or sometimes shifts a parameter to undesired value. This bug is caused by a lubricant inside the wheel mechanism. Silicon oil is a dielectric. It's intended to make wheel rotating smooth, but it covers contacts of sensor inside the e-dial and prevents it from normal functioning.
Is it a mistake of developers or a hackwork of taiwan assemblers I can't say. But I can tell you how to fix it.
I have attached 3 pictures showing how to disassemble the camera.
1. Remove the battery. Unscrew the screw from the bottom of the battery bay. It is not pictured because there is only one screw and it is too dark in the battery bay.
2. Unscrew all screws from the top of the body. Couple of screws are located under the built in flash.
3. Remove the top cover. Be carefull not to tear wires and flat cables connecting elements on top cover with the rest of the body. You can disconnect a flat cable from the slot at the body side to make the top cover more mobile. On the picture you can see 3 screws holding the e-dial module. Unscrew all those screws.
4. The end of a flat cable connected to the e-dial is glued to the top cover so you will have to use some force to unglue it.

5. Now you are ready to clean the e-dial sensor. Take a pure alcohol (vodka would suit too) and a clean syringe (5-10 ml). Hold the e-dial as far from the body as possible. It would be a good idea to cover the body with something water resistant. Aim a powerful jet of an alcohol under the wheel. Repeat such wash from all four sides of e-dial module.
6. Dry the e-dial module with an air flow. I used a large squirt that I use to remove dust particles from lenses.
7. Assemble everything carefully back.
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