|
Forum: Sold Items
09-13-2017, 03:20 PM
|
| |
PentaxForums.com Marketplace Listing
Item for Sale
Pentax Teleconverters: F 1.7X and Tamron 2X AF
Asking Price
195.00 USD
Item Location
Edmonton, Alberta (Canada)
Item Description
The F 1.7X AF lens works great for those manual focus long lenses that you want to get AF. Barely used. $195.
The Tamron 2X Pz-AF teleconverter works very well with screw drive lenses. $165.
Are you the original owner of the item being sold?
Yes
Are you selling or trading this item?
Selling
Item Condition (Key)
Used
Good
Shipping Destinations
Worldwide
Shipping Charge
actual cost
Shipping Services
postal
Accepted Payment Types
PayPal
Return Policy & Additional Details
paypal procedures
Please send me a private message if interested in the item!
|
|
Forum: General Photography
06-30-2017, 03:06 PM
|
| |
Here's kind of a plan from the NASA guy which looks like a good one to follow, particularly someone like me who has never done this before ...
From Gordon:
demare,
For your system, you are the best judge of your shutter speeds, but they sound reasonable, from the way I look at, which is how many stops you are under or over the proper exposure for the properly exposed full Sun disk image.
Here is I how I lecture on the order to do things:
1. If you are using my partial phase image sequence calculator to get you 10 image sequence between C1 and C2 you would have taken you 10th image when my timer says "2nd contact in 2 minutes." {now remember the last crescent image, or event the last 2, before totality have to be about 1 shutter speed slower that what you were using for the previous 8 partial phases because these last 2 put out less light} Print out my worksheet from my website http://www.solarecli.../docs/PPISC.pdf
2. Right after you take that crescent phase at 2 minutes before C2, change your shutter speed to 1/4000 so you are ready.
3. After you change your shutter speed take some peaks at the crescent with your solar glasses and alternate with taking some looks to the Northwest to see if you can see the shadow coming in.
4. When my timer says "60 seconds" it will remind you to look for shadow bands, now, switch to looking at the ground around you for shadow bands.
5. When my timer says "30 seconds" have you hand on you filter ready to pop it. As you continue to look for shadow bands.
6. When my timer says "20 seconds" either pop you filter then, or wait 2 or 3 seconds more and pop your filter and immediately begin taking rapid exposures all the way through the timer tone for C2 and the announcement for "glasses off."
7. You are in totality now, take some time to look at it with your eyes and a quick peek with binoculars
8. Now back to you camera, start taking exposures one at a time, 1/2000, 1/1000, 1/500, etc. all the way up to about 1 second, if you are not guiding.
9. Then set your shutter speed back to 1/4000 to be ready for C3.
10. Now look again at totality with your eyes.
11. The timer will count down to max eclipse, mark it with a tone and remind you to look at the horizon. Take a horizon picture with another camera NO FLASH!. Take a totality with Jupiter wide angle image. NO FLASH!
12. Look at totality again with your eyes.
13. The timer will announce 3rd contact in 20 seconds, get back to your camera and be ready
14. "10 seconds" start taking exposures, and at 5 seconds start taking them more rapidly, all the way through C3, it will get really bright fast, but don't stop yet, take exposures for about 10 seconds. Then replace your solar filter.
15. Set your shutter speed back to the setting for the thin crescents so you are ready to take the 1st image of the sequence at 2 minutes after totality.
That's it! You did it! High five you friends! Try not to be distracted by the party that will start and finish your 10 image sequence after totality.
Gordon
|
|
Forum: Pentax K-70 & KF
08-05-2016, 12:27 AM
|
| |
Yay, I have read the manual!! Now I know where to find it. :):o
Man, there is truly a plethora of interval and Star Stream options! This is an awesome camera for astro. If the Canikonions only knew. :cool::cool:
|
|
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
02-07-2017, 03:56 PM
|
| |
I am happy to see that I am not the only that was assuming that wifi would be compatible with my PC. Pentax seem to believe that everybody has moved to the tablet/smartphone world already.
|
|
Forum: Monthly Photo Contests
02-16-2016, 12:17 PM
|
| |
thanks jeantree; I suppose the title is a bit obscure - references the questionable idea of change as progress as well as the whole dynamic of our relationship to the natural world. In my art I have long been fascinated with these ambiguous ideas and relationships.
|
|
Forum: Pentax Forums Giveaways
01-31-2016, 05:09 PM
|
| |
If you are looking to capture Aurora Borealis for example when you visit this rock in the middle of the Atlantic ocean called Iceland (where I live) :) - there are few things you need to capture the tails sharp.
A good tripod; A Pentax K5II, K5IIs, K3 or K3II (you can actually use K-01 as well or Spotmatic F with success), a good wide lens like 16-50mm f/2.8.
Location doesn't matter that much, since you can capture the northern lights in the middle of Reykjavik - they are bright over here and i've even captured them during summer in daylight (pure luck I guess).
Remember to set the focus to infinity - then put it in M (Manual mode).
So, when you have found a spot, use no more then ISO 1250 (everything above is overkill) and set your camera to capture "Interval Shooting" - you can set it to capture 10-20 frames at a time. Set the Interval to 10 seconds.
If you do this and have the lens at 16mm with some mountains, waterfall or lake (or the sea) - you should get results similar to my photo here.
Hope this helps :)
|
|
Forum: Pentax Forums Giveaways
01-31-2016, 11:24 AM
|
| |
If you have a WiFi enabled Pentax (the K-S2 or the expected upcoming new FF) and like hiking and you maybe use a monopod that doubles as a walking stick- you will find that you still can't reach high enough to get that picture of those chicks in the nest way up above, nor a good reach out over the water to take that unique waterfall angle.
Instead, take a window washers 12 ft telescoping pole, which retracts to about 5 ft. Modify it by attaching a tripod screw (reworked from a hand grip bracket) to the end where the wash-wiper screws in; modify and attach (about 2 ft up from bottom of pole) a smart phone bracket (one used in a car can be adapted and works well).
Then attach your camera, set it up with the ANTICIPATED settings, put your smart phone in the bracket and then connect the two via WiFi; then lift it up and once you see your subject on your camera's screen you make any necessary final adjustments and presto- you have that special shot!!
This is now the last of the allowable 5 sentences, so obviously there are finer points that I can't fit in, but experimentation will show you those: go have fun but just don't try this during a lightning storm!
|
|
Forum: Pentax Forums Giveaways
01-30-2016, 10:01 PM
|
| |
By manual focusing the lens, you will begin to see your subject in a whole new way. It forces you to not only see the duck, but you have to look for each feather and water drop to get the focus right. Once you train your eyes to see these details, you will see them even when using auto focus. You will get better and more consistent results by being able to see what your camera focused on and you will get more enjoyment out of seeing what you’re looking at!
Don W
|
|
Forum: Pentax Forums Giveaways
01-30-2016, 08:56 PM
|
| |
I see one improvement you could make to get more working distance: reverse the lens. The working distance is then exactly the mount to sensor distance, 45.46 mm. I find your home made extension tubes fascinating.
|
|
Forum: Pentax Forums Giveaways
01-30-2016, 06:46 PM
|
| |
For backlight silhouettes during daylight, especially when facing the sun, I found out that 8 is a magic number! I use 8-80-800: f8.0 ISO80 1/800s
 |
|
Forum: Pentax Forums Giveaways
01-30-2016, 03:15 PM
|
| |
For Night Photography. Curves can be extremely powerful. Below are to images. The original with no edits and the edit where I have ONLY applied a couple of curves adjustments to the picture.
First I did a curves adjustment to the whole image. Then I selected the core of the Milky Way and did a second adjustment.
You can select different parts of the image to apply different curves.
Curves is your friend!
|
|
Forum: Pentax Forums Giveaways
01-29-2016, 01:48 PM
|
| |
When taking vertical images, most photographers will rotate the camera to the left, holding it up with the right arm/hand above the camera. Rotating the camera to the right, however, allows a photographer to hold his/her arms and elbows in close to the body and thereby steadying the camera. Additionally, changing the position of the right hand to use the thumb to actuate the shutter button insures the grip end of the camera won't be pushed to the side by actuating the shutter. Especially useful in low light.
|
|
Forum: Pentax Forums Giveaways
01-19-2016, 06:07 AM
|
| |
You probably read your User Manual that came with your new Pentax camera.
My tip is: Read it again after a year or so. You will probably have forgotten some handy features that you initially read, but aren't using due to "too much information".
I have read mine already three times and every time I discover new possibilities!!
Happy shooting! (and reading :-)
|
|
Forum: Pentax Forums Giveaways
01-19-2016, 06:04 AM
|
| |
Switch the focus from the shutter button to the back of the camera. This not only allows for potentially faster snaps as the camera doesn't have to go through focusing before releasing the shutter but also makes it less likely to accidently take a photo while trying to focus.
|
|
Forum: Pentax Forums Giveaways
01-19-2016, 05:40 AM
|
| |
Using your Camera's user manual, set your green button up to give auto exposure when using an old manual lens.
Once set up, choose the aperture on the manual lens (M etc), focus your shot and then hit the green button to set your exposure/shutter speed.
This will help new users that use older lens's get a better exposure.
|
|
Forum: Pentax Forums Giveaways
01-19-2016, 12:33 AM
|
| |
A photography tip and a mood booster:
If you're feeling glum about something--the endless snowy weather, the nearly dried river, the annoying woodpecker trying to get through your siding, etc--take its picture. Work to make the annoyance beautiful through photography. It will force you to reach outside your perspective to get a shot, which can lead to some really creative photos, and it will help you feel better about circumstances you may not be able to change (or give you an idea about how to fix a situation).
|
|
Forum: Pentax Forums Giveaways
01-18-2016, 11:10 PM
|
| |
I already entered my "tip" but thought this might get a smile. I recently discovered that an old school Lite Brite makes a perfect light box in a pinch. Simply remove the black plastic cover (with holes, where all those infernal little plastic pieces went), and you can use it as is, or put a page-sized piece of plastic over it as a colored filter! I found several different kinds of lightbulbs for it in the appliance section so I can change the kind of light I want easily. Fun! :)
|
|
Forum: Pentax Forums Giveaways
01-26-2016, 12:04 AM
|
| |
Tips for shooting the stars!
1. Get Stellarium (star tracking program) and figure out where the Milky Way is going to be, and whether or not you can see it at that time of the year where you live
2. Be prepared to paint your foreground subject with light!
3. Get your wide angle lens, set your camera on a long enough exposure, your focus to where the stars are sharp as they can be, and experiment with ISO and aperture until you get a decent picture.
4. Take it in to LR and mess with WB until you get the colors you want, toggle the whites, contrast, sharpness, and other sliders (and maybe even paint with an adjustment brush some extra sharpness/clarity) until you get get nice looking stars against the night-sky!
|
|
Forum: Pentax Forums Giveaways
01-25-2016, 06:33 PM
|
| |
My tip is a photoshop technique I came up with to soften skin tones. I used to apply plug ins to soften skin tones but i found them softening the whole image which i usually don't want and find masking tedious and time consuming so I came up with this softening technique I really love through trial and error. First take the lasso tool and select areas on the face you want to soften. Next copy and paste creating a new top layer with the selected areas. Next use gaussian blur on the layer and adjust to the softness level you are going for. Then I fade in the softened layer to original to get just the facial blend just right. The last step is adding some noise to the softened layer to match the grain structure of the photograph. When you're satisfied with the results, simply flatten the image. I know it's not reinventing the wheel but I have found this technique the best way to soften faces.
Here is a link to an example: http://stephencrocker.zenfolio.com/p1000884190/e53e84d1d[/IMG]
|
|
Forum: Pentax Forums Giveaways
01-25-2016, 03:36 AM
|
| |
Do something "wrong"
Take pictures with the $10 lens you bought at a flea market that turned out to be full of fungus, just to see what you can get out of it (after removing the Ricoh pin, we don't want it stuck on there forever).
Skew the color/white balance/saturation settings and see how it skews your results; shoot high ISO on a bright, sunny day; or make a pinhole from an old body cap.
A little play is healthy...
Just don't forget how to put everything back again :)
|
|
Forum: Pentax Forums Giveaways
01-24-2016, 10:49 AM
|
| |
Instead of blurring fast-moving water with slow shutter speeds, freeze the movement with a very fast one. I recommend at 1/1600s or faster.
IMGP4612 by Jonathan MacDonald, on Flickr
|
|
Forum: Pentax Forums Giveaways
01-22-2016, 10:45 AM
|
| |
K-S1s are now so cheap and light there's no reason for not buying two or three or more to hang around your neck. With 20 mpx to work with, image quality is up there with the best. Attach a couple of good primes or carry both wide-angle and telephoto zooms, and you'll never have to compromise on composition when action or inspiration hits. And as a bonus, you can color-code!
|
|
Forum: Pentax Forums Giveaways
01-21-2016, 03:21 AM
|
| |
This tip is on how to import and sort your photos from SD card. This is for Mac and would work for Windows too.
I organize my photos by hierarchical folder in the form 'Pictures/yyyy/mm/yyyy-mm-dd/'.
Within this folder, I rename the image name in the format 'yyyymmdd-hhmmss-camera name-filename'
This is mainly because, during family trips, pics from Pentax K-x, K30 and K5ii has to be differentiated.
I use 'exiftool' to accomplish this task.
First I copy the images from SD card to a staging folder (I called Pictures/_Input)
I open a terminal (in Mac) go to the Pictures folder and run the following two exiftool commands
Command 1:
Code:
exiftool -v -r '-FileName<${CreateDate}_${Exif:Model}_${filename}' -d "%Y%m%d_%H%M%S" _Input Command 2:
Code:
exiftool -v -r "-Directory Now open Picasa and see all your photos organized neatly by year/month/date. :)
|
|
Forum: Pentax Forums Giveaways
01-21-2016, 02:01 AM
|
| |
I do a lot of street photography.
If you need a little more stability, get a small and cheap tripod and use it against your chest: then your camera, tripod, arms and trunk will then act like a solid object, pivoting on your waist and dampened by your legs and knees.
|
|
Forum: Pentax Forums Giveaways
01-20-2016, 06:24 PM
|
| |
My favorite light is the light on the front edge of a thunderstorm. When something in rolling in during the day I keep an eye on the radar and go after landscapes when the storm front is almost on top of me.
|
