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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 08-03-2016, 09:44 PM  
Is an upgrade from a K3 to K1 worth it?
Posted By nomadkng
Replies: 168
Views: 18,045
It's because so many are trying to put into words what is more tactile. it's like describing what sweet tastes like or what your favorite shade of blue looks like. the K1 doesn't do any one thing so much better that you can hold up two images and say "There, see!"

I can put my K10 images next to my K1 images on my 4k monitor and you'd be hard pressed to pick which one is which, BUT....

Part of what makes the K1 great is that getting to that same image was easier. From controlling the scene histogram-wise to post-processing, the K1 has made my life easier. I'll use my "Grand Canyon Glow" image. What may have required 3, maybe 4, 1/3 stop tweaks to get the histogram I wanted, took 2 because of the extra DR. It may be only 2/3 of a stop, but the extra 2/3 saved me 30 seconds. Those 30 seconds were invaluable because I can look at the 4 frames I took before and 4 frames I took after the shot and SEE the subtle changes in lighting, the change in position of the sun that change the whole scene. As twilight approaches it can be tough to "keep up with the light" and keep your histogram where you need it to be. The extra headroom in the data that the K1 gives, makes it easier. Maybe I still get that shot with my K3, maybe I don't because I'm chimping one extra time. But you can't "quantify" with images, because it's comparison is no image at all.

And then there's post processing. With the K10, K5iis and K3, I worked hard on some images. Not to "salvage" them, because nothing was technically wrong with them, but to get them to fit my taste. Maybe the analogy is of a chef insisting a piece of meat be an exact sense of tender. He can get there with lesser cuts, but it's more work, more time and sometimes results in "settling" or a compromise. K1 raw images are almost already "tender" and therefore I only have to worry about getting the seasoning mix right and cooking it to the right temperature.

I could probably quantify that with a 20 page step by step, 100 image dissertation showing histogram to RAW ACR to finished product, but I'm sorry, I don't like anyone on here that much to take THAT much of my time.

But in the end Norm, the is no difference between my K10 images and my K1 images because I know what I want me end result to be and my shooting workflow from exposure to post processing has been honed over the past 10+ years. But what I do know from personally transitioning from the K10, to K5iis, to the K3, to the K1 is that the K1 is the best camera Pentax has put out to date. It does the little things better, that makes the little things I do easier, more accurate and in the end, results in a marketable product.

What these fence sitters (and "K3 mercenaries") are asking for is for some of us K1 users to provide comparable images so you can subjectively assign an arbitrary value and quantify if the value meets an arbitrary standard of "better" to justify switching. I'm of the belief we will never be able to perform to your satisfaction. Why, because the comparison shot will never exist. Maybe if I take 10,000 images with a K1 and 10,000 images with a K3 at the exact same time of the exact same subject, I would be able to point to 1, or maybe even 100 and say see, this is the shot the K1 can get the K3 can't.

But if it's 1 out of 10,000 or 1 out of 100, is that "enough" to convince you to switch? Not if you don't care what the 1 shot provides. You used your AF example of all but three or four images being in focus. Well what if the K1 got one extra image in focus? What if it was "the one"? the K3 would have missed it. but how do you "quantify" that?

You've been around enough pro photogs to know that "the one" is the holy grail. Well the K1 gives me more confidence, the K1 is more responsive to the way I shoot, the K1 allows me to push the limits of my image creativity in small, subtle ways that I felt restricted by the K3. The K1 brings "the one" closer to reality. The K1 gives me the confidence that I will capture "the one" when the moment presents itself. That's what makes the K1 worth to me and that's why my K3 is for sale.

So how does one quantify more trust? How does one quantify more confidence? How does one quantify the ease in which the K1 responds to your vision? You can't.

That's why I have answered every single person in every single thread who has asked if the K1 is worth it with a "No." Because if you don't know the limits of your photographic style, if you aren't wishing your K3 or K30 or iPhone did "something" better, you should stick with what you have. The K1 won't MAKE a photographer better, but the K1 will ALLOW a photographer to BE better. If you don't know specifically what that means for you, you should stick with what you have.
Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II 07-08-2016, 05:56 PM  
Been banned from DPReview
Posted By monochrome
Replies: 133
Views: 17,828
Had DPR presented the commentary as you have represented it, rather than using an inflammatory title - I suspect the writer was trying to be cute - charged words and snarky Kindle comments none of this would have happened. It's all so predictable.

A known-to-be professional group of reviewers makes ill-advised word and title choices (one hopes these choices weren't intentional) following the regular DPR tradition; the usual Pentax posters respond in kind; meanwhile (side-bar) rational posters make reasonable observations about the language, which DPR episodically changes; non-Pentax users pile into the discussion, inflaming passions all the more; the cranks enter late, throwing firebombs; eventually the heat subsides, ruining a generally fair and positive review and irreparably damaging the product reputation; and at the end the Senior Fellows drop by to admonish the loyal subjects for their misbehavior - this happens every time. Someone has to stop the cycle.

As a first step I suggest DPR reviewers submit their text to a dispassionate editor before publication, with an eye toward removing inflammatory titles, references and snark. The writers are in the control position.
Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II 07-08-2016, 05:51 PM  
Been banned from DPReview
Posted By Michaelina2
Replies: 133
Views: 17,828
He does not need a defender... To be frank, he comes off as angry... IMHO.

OTOH... Guess I'd be angry too, if I'd survived the long march/frog-walk to a PhD in BioSci, only to find myself wasting away in a minor sub-division of the Amazon marketing colossus. Even though I've got a title that should permit me to rule by authority, here I am dying as I'm forced to field and defend my 'team' against valid questions from a vast unwashed army of third-tier brand loyalists. I did my job. I repeatedly proved features never intended to exist, in fact, do not exist, only to discover these sloths beavered around and are using creative variations on these in combination with other features to produce great things. That's not all... What's especially maddening, the challenges from these barbarians spotted fatal flaws that caused the team to completely withdraw and issue a rewrite of the earlier Pixel Shift evaluation. In addition, they actually strong armed the re-test of the main product's AF section when it was shown to be severely flawed and rewrite parts of the report because the original write-up produced by one of my employees was snarky, tactless and misleading. Finally, in order to accommodate, I was forced to adjust my budget timeline/priorities and burn a ton more money than their cr@ppy product deserves. I could go on, but Imagine that...!

Somewhere Rishi mentioned this stuff kept him from sleeping at night.

If the job had been designed and executed correctly in the first place, there's no reason he should not be anticipating his bonus and sleeping like a baby.

My 2 cents... M
Forum: Pentax K-3 & K-3 II 05-26-2015, 10:05 AM  
I tried to support my local camera store...
Posted By Sagitta
Replies: 22
Views: 3,099
If that was the case auto parts stores with repair bays attached wouldn't exist.

Its much more likely that they went through at least one "You need to fix this!" scenario after someone wet cleaned their stuff improperly. Hell, I ruined my K-30 because I wasn't aware that wet cleaning could destroy a camera if you have the wrong kind of dirt hanging out on the sensor. In today's digital age, a decision not to sell something is far more likely a case of "I don't want to deal with this" over "I don't want to compete with my own service." Its not like cheap cleaning kits aren't available online for next to nothing.

If a customer comes in and asks "Can you sell me a cleaning kit?" they obviously know what it is, and in all likelihood knows they can just order one online. There is no self competition involved since there is no secret involved with it. $60 also wouldn't be too high of a profit margin once you factor in the time involved and the risk factor of something going wrong. They only reason we see it as expensive is because we know the cost of the materials and most consumers mistakenly value their own time and effort in any home repair job as 'free'.

Look at it this way. How much does it REALLY cost to do a good, deep clean on your gear? If you figure a half an hour for the cleaning (this includes time to charge the batteries fully, set aside a work space, organize your equipment, etc), plus the cost of the cleaning kit itself, you'll be pushing at least half that amount. ($5 for equipment, $10-20 for your time and labor, $X for the inherent risk involved of doing Something Stupid and making your DIY job a disaster) and you can see where that cost starts coming into play.

In a camera shop, you have to figure a camera cleaning will pull an employee off the floor for a half hour, eat up a bit of stock, and runs the risk of a screwup that could cost the shop anywhere from $500 to $2000 or more depending on the camera and you see where the costs can come into play. Think of it this way - if you safely clean 50 cameras at $60 a shot then screw up and wreck ONE $2500 camera, your profit is now less than $0 because you just ate those 50 repairs in replacing the guy's gear, PLUS have to now deal with damage control in explaining to that guy who needs his camera for the wedding that weekend why his camera was ruined. Camera shops are a dying breed as it is, you really don't need an angry ex-customer posting "BOB'S PHOTO-VIDEO DESTROYED MY CAMERA" on Yelp.
Forum: Pentax Price Watch 07-01-2014, 01:51 PM  
Spyder 4 Pro Display Calibration: $99 ($70 off - hidden deal)
Posted By Adam
Replies: 8
Views: 1,674
B&H has a special "fourth of July" price on the Spyder Pro monitor calibration system: take over 40% off!

This deal is not listed on the web site; you have to go through the link below.

Datacolor Spyder4PRO Display Calibration System B&H Photo Video

Forum: Pentax K-3 & K-3 II 11-02-2013, 10:12 AM  
K-3 AF-C Test Picts
Posted By Winder
Replies: 64
Views: 20,079
These are some quick OOC JPEGs to test the AF-C on the camera. Images shot with a Sigma 85mm F/1.4 which is an average lens for AF speed. I kept aperture at F/2.8 or F/2 to keep DoF narrow and not give the AF any margin of error. I used the center AF point and on the last shot I was on his chest, not his face. Did not have as much luck with the 9 center AF points, but I probably need more time to play with them. People who shoot action would probably have more success.
Forum: Pentax Q 07-05-2013, 12:08 PM  
Q new firmware update 1.13 now available
Posted By monochrome
Replies: 43
Views: 11,930
I'm not arguing to be argumentative here - but - at some point we need to accept that this camera is a consumer's camera, not an enthusiasts camera nor a semi-pro tool. Pentax USA wants to emphasize the capability of the Q and somewhat downplay the fun aspect (from our Q Users' call with James Malcolm) but though I dodn't say it, they're missing the point (again). Q is about fun AND unexpectedly high image quality. It isn't a substitute DSLR, and it takes a LOT of coaxing to get a quality image out every time.

The Quick Dial and the Scene Modes and the Smart Filters don't bother me becasue I don't expect them NOT to be there.

Now if they made a magnesium body Q7-Pro with an optional EVF, full-on K-5 control Menus and Buttons, proper flash sync and proper video outs then I'd have a different opinion of all the toots.
Forum: Pentax News and Rumors 06-12-2013, 06:14 PM  
2012 Japan sales of mirrorless & SLRs
Posted By Pål Jensen
Replies: 541
Views: 51,351
What you are describing is not equivalence, it is DOF wide open equivalence and should be labeled so (in fact this equivalence isn't really a DOF equivalent either as equivalent lenses after this principle will not give the same image at the close focusing distance cross formats with real world lenses).

As others have pointed out elsewhere an image is an exposure that is defined by Aperture, shutterspeed and sensitivity of the medium (ISO). You cannot keep these constant or equivalent if you like while maintaining the same image cross formats. Nor can you change one of them without effecting at least one of the other. Hence, true equvalency across formats is practically impossible.
In fact any other constant is just as valid as reference points for equivalence; like exposure equivalence. Thats is same exposure cross formats. It is the latter equivalence that most people actually buy lenses after; eg someone having the 16-50/2.8 for the K-5 will most likely want a 24-70/2.8 for an FF camera in order to use both at their best advantage and either work around or with any DOF issues. Or they simply buy it cause it is available.

No one choose a format according to "equivalence". They choose them cause they are not equivalent. Generally larger formats yields better image quality than smaller.
In addition, no one actually shoot after the "law of equivalence". People will use their camera to their best advantage regardless of format; they will not try to equalize them in real life. Eg if you stand in front of a beautiful landscape with camera on a tripod, whether it is the Q, K-5, FF. 645 or 6X7, you'll use it at its finest ISO value to maximize quality and give a damn about equivalency. Likewise, if you want to freeze action you will do whats necessary while trying to maintain best possible image quality results. What you can say though, is that the bigger the format the bigger the chance to be forced to boost ISO in order to get the shot.

As other have pointed out; DOF wide open equivalency is the wrong math. To illustrate this is the fact that there are no 28-70/4 (FF) equivalent budget lens for the Pentax 6X7 which according to you should be in fact cheaper then the budget 28-70/4 lenses for FF ($100 perhaps?). Apart from the fact that they wouldn't be any cheaper, no one would buy such a 56-140/9.5 (or 11 or whatever) for the 67 cause people aren't interested in DOF wide open equivalency; they want exposure equivalency. Trying to market such a lens in the film days by claiming at was a kit lens equivalent to the 28-70 lenses for the 35mm format, and that you can work around its slow speed by using 3200ISO film would make people laugh.

Treating camera as a DOF (wide open) measuring device is missing the point. The camera is a tool for creative image making where photographers use whatever formats to the best of its advantage.
In addition, absolute DOF, except for having enough of it, is not a useful measure. This is because the degree of out of focusness or subject separation is highly subjective and not neccessarily highly critical in absolute values; eg. thinner DOF do not necessarily give better subject separation. And there are situation when you want subject separation but still want to show what the environment is like.

While this equivalency debate may be interesting, it is of little practical value. I feel it is a bit like posting the following statement on a sailing forum: "Circumnavigation is an impossibility provided the earth is flat". Possibly correct, but of little value to sailors.:lol:
Forum: Pentax Q 01-21-2013, 08:19 AM  
Sticky: Adapted lenses tested on the Q : the reference thread
Posted By baro-nite
Replies: 1,151
Views: 667,935
I wanted to see just how far I could push this lens, to see if it would be possible to capture any features of Jupiter, so I did some testing indoors before attempting the challenge of field photography with such a tiny angle of view. While I have the Pentax L-converters, neither one fits on the DA*300, so I used the cheap 4-element TCs I have available. I wasn't really expecting this to work, so I was surprised and pleased by the results. One key is of course the extraordinary resolution of the lens. The other, I think, is that even cheap TCs do well at the image center, and with the Q that's all we see.

My test subject is a printed box shot from about 6 meters away. I put the box at an angle so that I could then select the best-focused part in PP, and hence to take focusing variation out of the comparison. I used flash to also take motion blur out of the comparison, and didn't adjust the power, other than putting a diffuser on for shots where I was getting overexposure, so I've adjusted exposure (and white balance) in PP. I did sharpening subjectively, trying to maximize detail in each shot without creating sharpening artifacts. For each configuration I took one shot wide open and another down one stop; in each case the stopped-down shot was better. (I also did two stops down with the lens alone; it was no better than one stop down.)

All 100% crops.

1. Lens alone. In the thick gray lines I can see some texture, but not detail per se.
Attachment 156345

2. With 1.4x. Now the texture of the thick gray lines resolves into nearly vertical rows of dots, but it's hard to discern separation between the dots.
Attachment 156346

3. With 2x. Now I can clearly see the separation between the dots in the thick gray lines.
Attachment 156347

4. With stacked 1.4x and 2x. I see no loss of detail compared to the 2x alone.
Attachment 156348

To my eye, each addition in magnification adds additional detail, or at worst does not lose any detail, while making the image larger. I'm surprised for several reasons. One reason is that while the lens has proven itself on the Q, magnifying it by an additional 2.8x is asking a lot. Another reason is that these are cheap TCs, and while I knew that both perform well at the image center, at least on APS-C, again this is really pushing things. A third reason is diffraction. With both TCs and the lens at 5.6, this is effectively f/16.
Forum: Pentax Q 01-17-2013, 11:53 AM  
How to set up a Pentax Red Dot sight for the Q
Posted By crewl1
Replies: 57
Views: 17,521
This quick start guide shows how I set up a red dot sight to help with acquiring distant targets when shooting with the Pentax Q and adapted telephoto lenses.

In this case the specific items I used are the Pentax RD10 red dot sight along with a Photosolve Xtend-a-Sight gun rail to hot shoe mount.

Links
Pentax 1x Gameseeker RD10 Red Dot Sight (Matte) 89701 B&H Photo
Photosolve Home > Products > Xtend-a-Sight


1.) Install the battery on the RD10, it goes in the top of the large knob with the numbers. Use a coin to take the cap off, install the battery and replace the cap.
Test the RD10 by turning the knob away from 0, and see if a red dot appears when you look through the knob end of the unit.
Remember to always turn off the unit by setting the knob back to 0 to save battery power.


2.) Attach the Xtend-a-Sight rail to the RD10, making sure the rail clamps are set so the long tooth grabs the RD10 and the short tooth grabs the wide part of the rail.
Make sure it is oriented properly with the Large knob over the hot shoe mount.


3.) Install the RD10 on the Q with your long lens on a tripod, and lock the rail to the hot shoe by turning the wheel.


4.) Turn on the Q and Aim the rig at an item at a typical distance you will be shooting, such as a mailbox or sign down the street, so that the item is in the center of the frame. Lock the tripod head


5.) turn on the RD10 and peer through it to see where the red dot appears in relation to your target.
You want the red dot to be in the same spot as the item that is in the center of the Q frame.


If it isn't, you can adjust the position of the dot by taking the small black caps off the RD10.
These cover the adjustment pots, by turning the top one you can change the up/down position of the dot, and the side one changes the left right position of the dot.




6.) Test your alignment now by using the RD10 to find a new object and confirm that it shows in the middle of the Q screen.

By using the RD10 you will cut down the amount of time needed to find your target, which can be especially difficult in cases with no landmarks - for example in trying to find a bird in the middle of a tree.

Enjoy!
Forum: Pentax Q 01-16-2013, 05:40 AM  
Bad shots with the Q -- help me know what I did wrong.
Posted By drougge
Replies: 21
Views: 2,773
By almost the same reasoning, I always use AWB. Is there some reason that it's better to get a worse jpeg? (Of course, these days I also don't bother to get any separate jpegs, but there's a jpeg embedded in the RAW, and that's what I get to see when looking at the image in camera. And I'd rather have that usually be decent than consistently wrong.)

The only argument I can think of for shooting with a fixed wrong white balance is if you worry a lot about IQ, and want to have a linear white balance, so you know when a channel is actually blown. This is not how I use the Q (or any camera, but especially not the Q).
Forum: Pentax Q 01-06-2013, 08:04 AM  
06 lens ?
Posted By Riv
Replies: 46
Views: 12,625
I've had mine about 3 weeks, even though I pre-ordered. Had issues with the 1st, severe electrical failure. The replacement has been working fine, and it's a great lens for the Q. I wish it shared the build quality of the 02 zoom as far as the barrel construction goes. I really don't like the flex in the focus ring, feels cheap. I shimmed mine with a couple strips from a plastic page protector, and it's much better. Doesn't flex anymore and has just a touch more resistance during MF than the 02. Shimming also fixed my second complaint about it, If you use the MF (2X/4X) feature on the Q you'll notice that while zooming it will jump into the magnified MF assist view. Even if your being extra careful not to touch the focus ring, any damping of the focus ring just isn't there and turning the zoom ring will at times cause it to move just enough to trip the MF assist. The shim isn't a prefect solution, but it's at least removable and doesn't require taking the lens apart. I really don't think it would have cost that much for Pentax to build that part of the lens the right way.

Over-all I'm happy with it, and you can't beat it's size for what it is :)
Forum: Pentax Q 01-04-2013, 04:48 PM  
Fotodiox adapter question
Posted By Dentax
Replies: 60
Views: 8,275
barondla, I hope I did this right, but the photo shows the shim between the open and close ring and the body of the adapter.
Dennis
Forum: Pentax Q 12-24-2012, 09:33 AM  
Sticky: Adapted lenses tested on the Q : the reference thread
Posted By crewl1
Replies: 1,151
Views: 667,935
This is a centralized reference thread housing a database of experience and results of different adapted lenses that users have tested on their Q series cameras.

Information that each Lens Review should have: description of your results, the camera used (Q, Q10, Q7 or Q-S1), recommendations for best use, specific adapter brand or source that was used, and a sample image so a user might see what to expect.

To make this thread easy to search it will be important to put the lens name in the reply title (use the advanced reply,) that way a user wondering how their lens might work on the Q can do a search on title only and quickly get to the lens they are interested in. I think it is OK to have a lens reviewed more than once as different users may have different experiences and use cases.

Please try to minimize discussions here to keep this thread easier to navigate :)

Here is an index of the lenses submitted to date: (Will try to update this index regularly, but make sure to identify lens in the title)
Q and Q10 K-Mount PrimeAuto Chinon MC 28mm f2.8Lenmar 135mm f2.8Pentax 35mm Ltd MacroPentax A50 f2 and Sears Auto 50 F2Pentax DA 14mm F2.8 ED [IF]Pentax DA 40 XSPentax DA 40mm f/2.8Pentax DA 70mm f2.4 LTDPentax DA* 200/2.8 on Pentax Rear Converter-A 1.4x-LPentax DA* 300/4 with TCsPentax DA*300Pentax DA*300Pentax Da300 f4 pentax q-k adapterPentax Da300 with QK adapter and qPentax DFA 100 f2.8 MacroPentax DFA 100 WR MacroPentax DFA 100mm macroPentax DFA 100mm macroPentax DFA 100mm with pk adapterPentax DFA 50mmPentax K 50 1.4Pentax K 50 f1.2Pentax K 55mm f1.8Pentax M 50/1.7Pentax SMC -FA 31mm F1.8 AL LimitedPentax SMC A 50mm 1.7Pentax SMC A 50mm / 1.7 on the QPentax SMC A 50mm f2.8 macroPentax smc DA* 55mm f1.4 SDMPentax SMC F 135mm f/2.8Pentax SMC F 50mm f1.7 on the QPentax SMC F* 600mm F4Pentax smc f2.5 200mmPentax SMC FA 31mm f1.8 limitedPentax SMC FA 31mm f1.8 limitedPentax SMC FA 50 f1.4Pentax SMC FA 77mm f1.8 LimitedPentax SMC FA* 300 f4.5Pentax SMC K 135 F2.5Pentax SMC K 135mm f/2.5Pentax SMC K 200mm f4Pentax SMC K300 f4Pentax SMC M 100mm f/2.8Pentax SMC M 135 f3.5Pentax SMC M 1:3.5 28mmPentax SMC M 200mm f4Pentax SMC M 200mm F4Pentax SMC M 40mm f2.8Pentax SMC M 50/1.4Pentax SMC M 50mm / 1.4 on the QPentax SMC M 50mm 1.4Pentax SMC M 50mm 1:4 MacroPentax SMC M*300Pentax SMC P FA 50mm f2.8 MacroPentax SMC Pentax-M 1:2 50mmPentax SMC-A*300 f4Promaster 100mm / f:3.5 macro(Manual focus version)Promaster Spectrum 7 100mm f3.5Quantaray 28-70mm f/2.8-4Ricoh Rikenon 135mm f2.8Ricoh Rikenon 300mm f5.5Ricoh Rikenon P 105mm 2.8 macroRicoh Rikenon XR 50mm f2Ricoh XR 50mm 1:2Samyang 16mm F2.0Samyang 500mm f/8Samyang 7mm F8Sears 135 f2.8 Macro K mountSears Auto 50mm f2.0Sears Auto MC 300mm F5.6Sigma 105mm F2.8 EX DG MacroSigma 20mm F1.8Sigma 24mm F2.8Sigma 500 with sigma 1.4x adapterSigma 500mmSigma 500mmSigma 500mm 4.5 ex setting 0.5 to 1Sigma 500mm 4.5exSigma 500mm f4.5Sigma 500mm video with pk adapterSigma 50mm 2.8 EX MacroSigma APO Macro 180 f2.8Sigma EX DG 70/2.8 macroSigma Mini-Wide II 28mm f2.8SMC M 28/2.8SMC Pentax M 100/4 MacroSMC Pentax M 100/4 MacroSpiratone Sharphooter 400mm f6.3Tair 3M-5CA 500mm f:8 mirror lensTamron 90mm Macro f2.8Tokina AT-X 90mm f/2.5 MacroTokina AT-X Pro 100mm f2.8 MacroVivitar 200mm f3.8Vivitar 85/1.4 on Fotodiox Adapter (painted)Voigtlaender SLII 90/3.5 with Pentax adapterZenitar 16mm FE at f/5.6{colsp=3}Q and Q10 K-Mount ZoomKiron Vivitar 70-150mmPentax DA 10-17mm FishEyePentax DA 16-45 16mm at f/5.0Pentax Da 18-135Pentax DA 18-250 f4.5-6.3 at 250mmPentax DA 18-55 on the QPentax DA 50-200 WR f4-5.6Pentax DA 50-200mmPentax Da 55-300 handheldPentax DA L 1:4-5.6 50-200mm EDPentax DA* 60-250 f/4Pentax DA* 60-250mm F4Pentax DA-L 55-300 on the QPentax DAL 18-55mm f3.5-4.5Pentax DAL 55-300mm Zoom at 300Pentax SMC A 35-105 on the QPentax SMC F 35-70mm f/3.5-4.5Pentax SMC F 35-70mm F3.5-4.5Pentax SMC F 80-200mm f4.7-5.6Pentax SMC FA 28 to 80PENTAX SMC M ZOOM 1:4 75-150mm (asahi)Pentax SMC Reflex Zoom 400-600Pentax Takumar F 70-210mm F4-5.6Phoenix/Cosina 28-210mm f4.2-6.7Promaster (Tamron) 28-105mm f/4-5.6Sears 80-200 f4 zoom macroSigma 120-400 HSM OSSigma 150-500mm HSM OS (Lil' Bigma)Sigma 50-500mm OS HSMSigma 70-200 2.8 HSM IISigma 70-300 mm F4.0-5.6 DG APO MacroSMC Pentax - A 35 - 70 3.5 - 4.5Tamron 28-75 f2.8 ContinuousTamron 70-200 f2.8Tamron 70-300 LD Di Tele MacroTamron LD Di 70-300 AF zoom at 300Tamron XR 28-200 mm f 3.8-5.6Tamron XR Di 18-200Vivitar Series 1 28-105Vivitar Series 1 70-210/3.5 Version 1Vivitar Series 1 70-210F3.5 (Version 1)Vivitar Zoom Macro 80-200{colsp=3}Q and Q10 Other Mount2.8mm f/2 CS and 4mm f/1.2 CS4mm C mount Clover LENS0438mm movie lens Pandora-6Agfa Movexoom's Schneider Variogon 9-30mm f/1.8Albinar 2-in-1 Lens Tele zoom 1.7x/0.4xAlpex 1 1/2 inchces (38.1mm) F/2.5 lenApo-Rodagon-N 90mm f4Arco Cine 6.5mm f/1.4Arco-Cine 13mm f/1.4Arco-cine 6.5mm f/1.4Argus C3 100mm lensAstron 1:3.5 / 50mm Enlarger lensB&H Telate 4' F4.5 C-mountBauer C1's Bauer Vario 9-36mm f/1.8Bausch & Lomb Balcote Animar 15mm f/1.5Bell & Howell Super Comat 1 inch f/1.9Bolex K1 Kern-Paillard Vario-Switar 8-36mm f/1.9C mount Senko 25mm f0.95 wide open.Canon C-8's 10-40mm f/1.4Canon EF 100mm f2.8 macroCanon EF 70-300 f4-5.6 II UltrasonicCanon Eight C-8 13mm f/1.4Canon FD 200mm 1:4Canon FD 50mm f=1.8Canon FD 85mm 1.2 LCanon FL 200mm F3.5Canon mp-e65Canon New FD 500mm f/4.5 Lcanon super16 15-150mm f/2Canon Zoom C-8 9.5-47.5mm f/1.8Carena 8mm's angenieux k2 zoom 7.5-35mm f/1.8Carl Zeiss 32mmCarl Zeiss Jena Biotar 12.5mm f/2Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 12.5mm f/2.8 c-mounCarl Zeiss Jena Sonnar 135mm f/4Carl Zeiss Jena Tessar f4.5/40mm M42CCTV 2.5mm CS MountCCTV Fujian 25 F/1.4Cine Yashinon 38mm f/1.4Cine-S.ARCO 13mm f/1.4 D mountComputar 50mm f1.8 C mount lensComputar 8mm / f:1.3 (Model M8513-old version) C-MountComputar 8mm f1.4 fixed aperture C-mountComputar TV Lens 8mm f/1.4 C-mountCooke Ivotal 13mm f/1.4Cosmicar 25mm C-mount Television LensCosmicar 6mm f/1.4.E M C Automatic f2.8 28mm M42EL-Nikkor 50/2.8Eleet-DeJur Chromtar 1/2 inchElgeet 7mm 1.5 C-mountElgeet cine 7mm f/1.9 d-mounFrankar ~7mm-35mmFujian 25mm F1.4 with 1 Ext Tube C MountFujian 35mm f/1.7 C mountFujinon 17mmFujinon 2.7mm f/1.8 c-mountHelios 44m-7 58mm f2 M42Hensoldt Wetzlar Portable Microscope s.nr 9377Industar 61 L/D f:2.8 / 55mm (308mm equiv. on the Q)Industar-50 (Collapsible)Jupiter 9Kern-Paillard SWITAR 25mm f/1.4 AR C-mountKeystone CINE 1/2" f2.5Keystone K-1 turret D-mountKinotar Wide Angle 6mm f1.9Kodak Ektanar Len 50mm f/2.8Kodak Projection Zoom 15-25mmLPL 75mm f3.5 Enlarger lensLytar Som Berthiot 16mm F/2.8 C-mountMamiya Sekor 645 80mm 2.8Mamiya Sekor EF 50mm f1.7 DIY EOSMamiya-Sekor 135mm/f2.8 M42 AutoMC MTO-11CA 10/1000mm M42Meopta Anaret s 4.5/50 Enlarger lensMeyer-Görlitz Orestor 135mm f2.8 "Bokeh Monster"Microscope Objective lens (Swift 4x)Minolta Maxum AF 50mm f1.7Minolta MC Rokkor 1.7/85mmMinolta MC Rokkor-PF 1.7/50mmMinolta MC Tele Rokkor-HF 300mm f4.5Minolta MD W.Rokkor 2.8/28mmmto 500 f8 + zeiss 2x teleconverterNavitar 6mm f/1.4 Machine VisionNikkor 300 f4.5 ED IFNikkor 35mm F2Nikkor-P 105mmNikkor-Q 200mmNikkor-s 50mm 1.4Nikon 200mm f4 AI MicroNikon 28mm f/2.8 AI-sNikon 50mm f1.8Nikon AF 50mm f1.8 D reverse mounted onto Tamron 70-300mm SP DiNizo S800's Schneider Variogon 7-80mm f/1.8Olympus 200F4 contOlympus 6.5mm f1.8Olympus CINE 37mm f1.8Olympus OM 180 f2Olympus OM Zuiko 180 f2.8 at f5.6Olympus ZUIKO CINE 13mm f1.8Omnippon 25mm f1.4 C mountPanasonic 4mm f/0.75Pentacon f1.8 50mm m42Pentacon f2.8 29mm m42Pentax 01 Lens with add on wide angle diopterPentax 02 Zoom + Oly TCon 17Pentax 02 zoom with Kenko Digital Tele 2.0x sgt-20Pentax 110 50mm f2.8Pentax 110 18 mmPentax 110 18mm f2.8Pentax 110 18mm f2.8Pentax 110 18mm f2.8Pentax 110 24mm f/2.8Pentax 110 24mm F2.8Pentax 110 24mm f2.8Pentax 110 50mmPentax 110 50mm 2.8 with Soligor 1.7x teleconverterPentax 110 50mm @ f4.5Pentax 110 50mm F2.8Pentax 110 70mm f2.8Pentax 110 70mm f2.8 lensPentax 110 70mm f2.8 lens with Ext. tubesPentax 18mm f2.8 110 lensPentax 55mm takumar 42mm mountPentax Auto 110 24/2.8Pentax Auto 110 70mm f2.8 + Nikon 4T (+3) closeupPentax C30811KP 8.5 f1.5 C mount CCTV lensPentax CCTV lens C7528-M 75mmPentax M 42 Takumar 200mm F5.6 PresetPentax M42 super tak 1:2.8/105Pentax Q DIY Pinhole lensPentax SMC 645-FA 75mm f/2.8Pentax SMC bellows tak 100mm f4. M42Pentax SMC Tak f3.5 28mm M42Pentax SMC Tak 35mm 3.4Pentax SMC Takumar 300 f4Pentax SMC Takumar 50mm F1.4Pentax SMC Takumar f1.8 55mmPentax Super Macro Tak 50mm f4Pentax super tak 135mm 3.5 M42Pentax super tak 50mm 1.4Pentax Super Takumar 200/5.6Pentax Super Takumar 200mm f4 ~ 42mm mountPentax Super Takumar 28mm/3.5Pentax Super-Takumar 150mm f4Pentax super-takumar 35mm f/3.5 on QPentax Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200mm M42 presetPentax TV Zoom 12.5-75mm f/1.4Pentax/Cosmicar 8-48mm f/1.0Pentaz M42 Takumars – SMC 50mmQ DIY Toy Lens with MacroRainbow 3.5mm f/1.6Rainbow 4.8mm f/1.8 machine vision lenRevuenon 200mm f3.5 M42Ricoh Auto Rikenon EE 200mm F3.5 M42 MountRollei SL83's Rollei Vario 7.5-60mm f/1.8Rubinar Makpo 1000mm F10 MirrorRussian LOMO OKC3-10-1 10mm f/1.8S.F.C 3.5 / 50mm Enlarger lensSakar Auto MC 135mm 1:2.5Sankor 105mm f4.5 enlarging lensSchneider Kreuznach 105mm f4.5 enlarger lensSchneider Kreuznach Cinegon 1:1.9/11.5 C-mountSchneider Kreuznach Cinegon 6.5mm f/1.9 D-mountSchneider Kreuznach Xenon 25mm f/1.5 D-mountSchneider Optivaron 6-66mm f/1.8 c-mounSchneider Variogon 8-48mm f/1.8Schneider Xenoplan 13mm f/1.9Schneider-Kreuznach Tele-Xenar 1:3.8/75Schneider-Kreuznach Xenon 1:1.5/25 - C mountSigma 150mm f2.8 APO MACRO DG HSM Nikon F mountSigma 170-500 (Minolta Mount)Sigma AF 15-30mm f/3.5-4.5 EX DG EOSSigma EX DG 150-500 APO HSM OS EOSSoligor 400mm Tele-Auto 1:6.3Soligor 8/600mm T2 classicSpiratone (Mitake) 135mm F/1.8Steinheil Cassarit 36mm f/2.8 d-mountSun-tel 1 1/2 f1.9 D mountSuper Takumar 150/4Switar 36mm f/1.8 d-mountTAIR-3 300mm 4.5Tair-3 4.5/300-A 300mmTamron 25mm f/1.6 C mountTamron Adaptall 60B 300mm F2.8Tamron Adaptall-2 AF F4 70-210Tamron SP 52B 90mm f2.5Tamron SP Adaptall 60 - 300 23ATamron TV 16mm f/1.4Tele-Lentar 300mm f/5.5 (M42 adapted)Tokina-special auto 135mm f2.8Toyo 300mm f5.6 Catadioptric (Mirror)Travegar 50mm f3.5 Enlarger lensUltrak 3.5-8mm f/1.4Vivitar 28mm F2.5Vivitar m42 300mm f5.5 Auto TelephotoVotar 1.5 inches - 38.1mmWollensak 1 inch f/1.5 cine velostigmatWollensak 13mm f/1.9Wollensak 15-25mm f/1.5 zoom projection lenWollensak Raptar 13mm f/1.2 C-mountYashica 8E's Yashinon 12.5-37.5mm f/2.8Yashinon 38.1mm f/1.4 Q + D-mountYashinon 6.5mm f/1.4 at f/8 composite shotYVAR 12.5mm f/2.5Zuiko 200mm F4Zuiko 35-105 F3.5-4-5Zuiko 50mm 1.8Zuiko 50mm F1.8 w extension tubesQ7 and Q-S1 K-Mount PrimeCosina MC Cosinon-T 135mm 1:3.5Helios 44k-4Pentax DA 560Pentax DA*300 on Q7Pentax FA 100mm F2.8 MacroPentax M 50mm F4 MacroPentax SMC A 135mm f2.8Pentax SMC M 135 3.5Pentax SMC M 135 f3.5 on Q7Pentax SMC M 1: 2.8 28 mmPentax Takumar (Bayonet) 135mm f2.5Pentax-A* 600mm f/5.6SMC Pentax 50mm F1.4 Q7 and Q-S1 K-Mount ZoomPentax SMC F 80-200Sigma 70-200 OS on Q7SMC Pentax-FA 80-320mm F4.5-5.6SMC Pentax-FA 80-320mm F4.5-5.6 Q7 and Q-S1 Other MountAmpex 75mm f1.9 C-mountBorg 55FLCanon 100mm f3.5 LTMCanon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USMCanon EF 50mm F1.8 IICanon EF 70-200 f2.8 IICCTV Avenir 12mm f/1.2Cosmicar 25mm f1.4 C-mountCosmicar 50mm F1.4 C-mount lensExplore Scientific ED80Fujinon CF2.7HA-L1 2.7mm f1.8 FisheyeKern-Paillard Yvar 13mm f/1.9 AR VisifocusKern-Paillard Yvar 36mm f/2.8 AR VisifocusKern-Paillard Yvar 36mm f/2.8 AR Visifocus (D mount)Kodak Cine Ektanon 38mm/2.5Kodak Cine Ektanon 63mm f/2.7Kodak Cine Ektanon 63mm f/2.7Leica Telyt 400mm 6.8MC Rokkor 50/3.5 MacroMC Rokkor 58/1.4Minolta MD 250mm 5.6 mirrorNavitron TV lens 75mm f1.3 (C mount)Orion ED80T-CF TelescopeOrion Spaceprobe 3 telescope 700mm f9.2Pentax 110 50mmPentax 16/1.4 C-mount TV lensPentax 16/1.4 C-mount TV lensPentax CCTV lens C7528-M 75mmSamyang 7.5mm 3.5 (u43 mount)Schneider-Kreuznach Makro-Tele-Xenar 75mm F2.8 (C-mount)Sears Auto 28/2.8 MacroSOM Berthiot Lytar 25mm f/1.9SOM Berthiot Lytar 25mm f/1.9 (C mount)Tamron 55B SP 500mm/8 (Adaptall)Tamron 55B SP 500mm/8 (Adaptall)Tamron 55B SP 500mm/8 (Adaptall)Tamron 55B SP 500mm/8 (Adaptall)Tamron 6.5mm f1.8 c mount lensTamron CCTV 16/1.4Tamron SP 60-300 AdaptallTamron SP 60-300 AdaptallTamron SP 60-300 AdaptallVivitar Series 1 90mm 1:2.5 VMC macro for FD mountWollensak-Keystone 1 inch f/2.5 Cine RaptarYashica Yashinon 13mm f/1.4Yashica Yashinon 13mm f/1.4 (D mount)Zeika 38mm/1.4 D-mount 
Forum: Pentax Q 09-24-2012, 04:42 AM  
Photokina and the Q
Posted By Ishpuini
Replies: 21
Views: 2,675
Hello all,

I went to Photokina yesterday, and obviously I visited the Pentax stand. Here's the questions I asked on the Q and a summary of the "answers" I got. There may be some overlap with the pentaxforums interview, not sure (though I did watch it two days ago).

The difference between the Q and the Q10 is still not completely clear to me. I asked but Pentax staff couldn't show me comparison prints. The Q10 felt heavier, and was a bit thicker than my Q, though we're talking fractions of millimeters probably. I was a bit more responsive, but the overall feel was very similar. Most important was that the firmware that was installed included focus peaking. I hadn't seen that before, and I must say it works very nicely. I does make a difference with manual focus. If only this could be in a firmware upgrade in the Q, though I'm not expecting this.

I asked explicitely about the adapter that was on show without the tripod mount. The showcase had a Q10 + adapter + FA50/1.4, so the contacts were not visible. The pentax staff wanted to take it out for me, but returned saying it wouldn't be possible. Apparently it had been taken out the day before, so someone did get a closer look. Someone here? The guy I talked to did tell me there were no contacts and that the focal length would have to be selected on the body, same as with manual lenses on the DSLRs. I asked whether the Q would get a firmware upgrade to include this possibility. The answer I got was that Ricoh has a tradition in bringing new features to older cameras much more than Pentax, and as such we should "normally" see such an upgrade. Hardly a concrete confirmation of course...

Anyway, I was told the adapter would be available in October for the price of EUR 250 I think (but we knew that already didn't we?). I asked about the (optional) tripod mount (the adapter had a visible attachment for this), but couldn't get a clear answer on that. They couldn't tell me whether it would be a separated accessory and what it would cost in that case, but I got the impression that Pentax might just as well still decide to include it in the standard package? Not counting on that though.

I briefly played with the 06 lens, which looked very nice. It's very similar to the 02 zoom. A bit large for me (I have the 01) but I think it will make for a great 2 zoom kit.

It was great to see Pentax continue to support the Q system. The Q was more present than the K-01, even if the main tendency on this year's Photokina seemed to be designer cameras (a trend Pentax was among the first to launch).

Funny sidenote to finish. When I was trying the Leica X2 Edition Paul Smith (Leica's designer camera), I took a picture of it using my Q (which has a Leitz viewfinder, a Gordy's strap, and a Manfrotto Pocket Mini mounted). The Leica guy showing us the X2 looked at the Q in amazement. Esp after he showed the cool pop-up flash in the designer X2, which I bettered by popping up the flash out of my tiny Q. It was all very friendly, and I'm sure the Leica guy was going to google this Pentax Q right after his shift. He clearly had never seen anything like it! :D

Wim
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 04-30-2012, 11:34 AM  
P-TTL starter
Posted By Lowell Goudge
Replies: 7
Views: 2,319
something to think about with pentax flash and auto modes.

THe designers have decided that the flash is principally meant to be a fill flash, and as a result the camera will attempt to meet the exposure criteria any way possible before using flash. As a result, It will adjust ISO first, increasing it to the auto ISO limit, then reduce either shutter or aperture or both following the rules of hand holding (1/focal length) or the MTF curve of the lens, and only then will it start increasing flash power.

I find it much more practical to use the camera in manual mode, where I set the shutter and aperture as I want, and let the flash do the rest. If I want a heavy flash contribution I will set the aperture and shutter so that the natural lighting is about 4 stops below and the flash provides almost all the scene lighting. If I want fill flash, then the natural lighting may be as close to within 1/2 stop of the requirement and the flash does the rest.

I have no issues with exposure using this method
Forum: Pentax Q 02-28-2012, 06:52 AM  
Pentax Q + 85mm f/4.5 Ultra-Achromatic Takumar
Posted By Asahiflex
Replies: 6
Views: 3,213
I will never get this chance again (the owner of this lens was here so that I could check the lens for him) and I just had to use it on the Q!

All shots wide open... I'm sorry for the excessive CA and PF :p

1.


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4.
Forum: Pentax Q 01-31-2012, 08:02 PM  
The "reach" of the Q - images
Posted By barondla
Replies: 1,223
Views: 252,788
All images Pentax Q. "Standard" shot taken with Pentax 01 prime. Telephoto shot taken with DFA*300 at f4. Neither image is cropped. Can just make out the nest in the standard shot. No babies so the eagles would stay away for long periods of time. Started getting dark. Will go back for more images.
thanks
barondla
Forum: Pentax Q 01-18-2012, 04:24 AM  
40.5mm hood for Q
Posted By wanderography
Replies: 10
Views: 3,152
That first lens hood is for the zoom and wont work on the 01 lens, i have it, its bayonet mount and plastic, real nice actually for the price your paying. Look for the jjc metal lens hood for 01 lens on ebay i have that one too, thats for the prime and its metal and comes with a screw on metal cap...
Forum: Pentax Q 12-05-2011, 06:36 AM  
Would some one build a Pentax A110 lens to Q adapter.
Posted By Mistral75
Replies: 38
Views: 12,349
By the way, I am attaching for your information the list of the adapters I have found so far.
Forum: Pentax Q 11-08-2011, 07:57 AM  
Pentax Q Review: Photography Blog
Posted By Wheatfield
Replies: 36
Views: 15,345
Anyone who doesn't think the Q is worth what they are asking for it has the option to move on and buy something that isn't as well made or polished. I bought the Q as a carry everywhere camera. If I need better IQ then I have a K5, and if I need better than that, I have medium format and large format film.
IQ is a non issue. The Q is good enough, and it is small enough to be unobtrusive and non threatening, and different enough to not be a me-too camera.
It is also FUN, which a lot of people seem to discount as being unimportant, which is too bad, because people with no sense of fun are boring.
Forum: Pentax Q 09-08-2011, 11:04 AM  
Pentax Q - K-mount adapter !
Posted By falconeye
Replies: 98
Views: 32,948
What has been said here about the diffraction limits is not accurate.

I tried to make a more accurate statements here:
Basically, the Q is "influenced" by diffraction between f/2 and f/4 (loosing contrast in a recoverable way using sharpening tools as MTF doesn't become zero at Nyquist) and then looses resolution when going beyond (e.g., at f/8, 100% crops look visibly soft).

Therefore, shooting a DA*300 or DA*60-250 with a Q at their sharpest aperture (about f/5.0) will still deliver plenty of detail a K-5 won't render.

But the additional reach will not be that of the crop factor. It will be only roughly be 2-2.5 vs. a K-5 (because you can crop a K-5 image more). And only about 1.8x vs. a 24MP K-5mkII or NEX7, i.e., not more than what a 1.7x TC provides. OTOH, the * lenses do resolve enough detail to exploit this ~2x factor near the center.
Forum: Pentax Q 09-08-2011, 11:33 PM  
New Q in hand
Posted By devorama
Replies: 38
Views: 10,597
My new Pentax Q arrived today! First impressions:

  • Wow is this thing small! I literally LOLed when I saw how small the 8.5mm prime lens is. The whole kit is also really light. Feels lighter and gives an impression of smaller compared to my Olympus XZ-1.

  • Popup flash is cool but pops up with a lot of force! I'm afraid I'll break it, but it seems sturdy enough. A quick test on my dogs reveals no blue-eye (dog equivalent of red-eye) reduction by using the pop up flash instead of flash while retracted.

  • Body and lens feel very solid.

  • Buttons are small, but not too small for me. I'm 5'6" tall.

  • If you have a Pentax DSLR, you will feel right at home with the interface. I have a K20D an a K-r currently. The menu system is very familiar and I feel at home with the menus instantly.

  • The option to save the last JPEG as a RAW file is here like in the K-r.

  • The uncorrected RAW files require about a +18 lens correction in Lightroom to remove the barrel distortion. I saw some uncorrected JPEGs online, but you can correct them in camera a la m43 cameras.

  • Burst shooting:

  • JPEG: 6fps for 6 frames, then down to about 2fps

  • RAW: about 1.3fps for 4 frames, then down to 0.3fps. The final buffer flush takes a LONG time, like 14 seconds. And I'm using a Class 10 SDHC card.

  • RAW+JPEG: about 1fps for 4 frames, then big delay of 9 sec, then 3 sec, then 6 seconds. Followed by a 14 second buffer flush. The camera cannot capture another picture during the buffer flush.

  • Another weird thing about continuous shooting, it seems to take one more photo than you expect, after you've released the shutter.

  • ND filter is about 2 stops.

  • You can tell the camera to use the electronic shutter even if the lens has a physical shutter. I couldn't hear or see a difference in the prime lens when I used this option. The physical shutter is pretty quiet.

  • By removing the Q lens completely and holding a 50mm K lens up to the sensor, I got a was able to shoot with no lens attached. The electronic shutter is silent. But I got no option to focus assist or input a lens focal length for shake reduction.

  • Manual Focus assistance is 2X or 4X magnification and gets activated when you turn the focus ring on the Q lens. Not sure how this would work with a manual or adapted lens attached.

  • Bokeh Control doesn't really work that well. It doesn't usually get right what you want to keep sharp.

  • The custom control on the front with 4 positions can control aspect ratio, digital effect filters, color settings, or "Smart Effects" such as Toy Camera or Vivid Color. But you can't mix them to have slot 1 do a Toy Camera with 1:1 ratio. It only controls one aspect of the shooting.

  • Focus tracking works reasonably well, as does face recognition.

  • HDR modes seem to work well. I shot some hand held and saw no alignment errors at 100% crops. Also, the HDR auto mode works quite well. It returned a more realistic looking image than HDR1 or HDR2. Basically added just enough blending to avoid clipping of the highlights.

All in all, the handling and controls feel to me like someone took my K-r, updated a couple things, then shrank it down. It doesn't feel like shooting a P&S in terms of controls. I had a NEX-5 and LOVED the image quality. But shooting with it felt empty to me. I felt like I was using a P&S camera that had a great sensor. That's what you get when a cell phone division designs your UI! In many ways, the Q is the opposite of the NEX-5. It sacrificed sensor size, but has all the controls I want. There are no buttons or dials I miss coming from my K-r. if you don't shoot P mode, you can program the green button to be AE lock.

I was going to shoot one of my "ISO elevator" comparisons with my trusty rainbow flower and compare the Q to the Olympus XZ-1. But I'm too busy to do all that right now. I'll have to do it next week. But I can say that the images are pretty respectable at ISO 800 for the small sensor size. The JPEGs also seem like a pretty good compromise of detail and noise reduction.

I'm going to be pretty busy the next few days, but feel free to shoot me some questions. :-)
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 03-21-2011, 06:06 AM  
Raw vs Jpeg?
Posted By Lowell Goudge
Replies: 69
Views: 16,995
first of all, let's get rid of th ebiggest myth out there. RAW data is NOT data right off the sensor.

If it were, it would be a series of varrying intensity red, green and blue dots.

see the attached link for the description of the bayer filter used on most digital cameras

Bayer filter - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Aside from that, what RAW really consists of is the following.

An interpolation off the Bayer filter array to provide the user with red, green, blue and black channels at a conversion of either 12 or 14 bits per channel.

When you save in JPEG, this is reduced (by interpolation) to 8 bits per channel. One of the biggest impacts, therefore when converting to JPEG is that the steps between individual different colors or even shades within one color are larger. In many cases, this is not a problem, BUT when trying to dig detail specifically out of the shadows, this can be a problem, because the JPEG image also compresses the shadows more than a RAW image, so these "steps" between shades are larger.

The other significant difference is that JPEG has additional processing based upon camera settings, specifically contrast, color balance (white balance), noise reduction and sharpening.

Extreme compression in Jpegs, as snostorm suggests also starts to compress data by merging common elements of the image within larger blocks. this is where the real loss of image quality hits, but if you pick maximum resolution this is not significant.

If you are comfortable with your skills and knowledge of the camera settings, and / or you never take extreme shots which you know will require significant processing, JPEG can easily suit your needs.

The biggest arguments presented for RAW aside from greater color depth, is the ability to correct errors in post processing. To me the best credible argument, presented on the forum to date is that as time progresses, there may be development of better noise reduction and sharpening algorythims and as a result there is "potential" for better processing in the future. I say potential, because I am not sure it has happened yet.

For me, I shoot JPEGS almost exclusively, and have the same interests as snostorm, and have no complaints. I pay attention to white balance when shooting, amd modify WB to suit the lighting, I do the same with contrast, and I also pay close attention to exposure. I put an effort to getting it right at the time of capture, as opposed to fixing errors in simple things later.

It is everyone's personal preference, nothing more.

Don't let people tell you that shooting JPEGs makes later adjustments impossible, that is pure BS. Processing JPEGs is no different than processing RAW, you just don't have the same range of adjustments. If your exposure is close, i.e. within 1 stop it probably does not matter, but if you are out by 2-3 stops, then RAW can help some, but regardless it will not be a great image, it will still look like it was recovered from the scrap heap, just a little less so.
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 03-21-2011, 09:49 AM  
Raw vs Jpeg?
Posted By Frogfish
Replies: 69
Views: 16,995
I'm sure you are right .... but they still can't increase the original size from, for example, a web file of 1 or 2 MB (there is really no need to put up your best photos at any larger than that) to 10- 14MB and retain the same quality. So therefore it would be easy to prove ownership if required.
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