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Forum: Pentax Forums Giveaways
09-07-2016, 09:29 AM
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My 77mm needs a new playmate please
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
01-27-2015, 08:24 AM
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Each time I used the blower I got large chunks on the sensor which were showing up when I ran a Dust Check. The spots on the original post did not appear when I scanned the sensor.They must have been too small. I finally got it to the point where no chunks were seen by the sensor scanning and the test came back clean. I still get spotting on the blue skies so I am picking up a Pentax sensor cleaning kit. In the mean time I am just going to clone, clone clone. I generally shoot between f/2.8 and f/11. I don't know why I had the F Stop cranked down for this photo. It was a spur of the moment Idea.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
01-27-2015, 08:04 AM
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Emalvick and Basie,
I of course was being sarcastic about the dust and getting dust on my Film Sensor. I still shoot a healthy amount of film in 135 and 120 formats. I am rather adept at cloning out dust and other artifacts which arise from post process dust storms. I have several labs I use which are phenomenal about dust control and scanning their work is a pure joy. I have found I spend less time scanning negatives and process than I do converting RAW images and editing.
I have attached the final edit.
As for the dust. It took a number of times to get it anywhere close to dust free and most of the time I ended up with more dust on the screen than previously. I am going to order some stuff, but the blower seemed to only make things worse.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
01-24-2015, 08:46 PM
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Thank you everyone for the quick responses. I will take it out tomorrow and shoot some sky at F/22 and see what comes of it. I never have too clean my film Sensors!
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
01-24-2015, 08:37 PM
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Here is another of the images I took the same day. The aberrations appear in the exact same locations even though the camera is telling me the sensor is clean. Alos both images were shot in RAW.
Here is an image I took with the Sigma 105mm f/2.8 I took two days later
https://www.flickr.com/photos/rpilla001/15737669924/http://
---------- Post added 01-25-15 at 03:38 AM ----------
Thanks. I will try the Mirror Lockup and see what that does. I am taking the lens out tomorrow again to see what it looks like.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
01-24-2015, 08:25 PM
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Setup:
Pentax K-5
Dust Removal on Startup
Lens
Tamron 17-50mm F/2.8
Ran a dust detection which can back clean.
Did a auto dust removal.
The lens appears spotless in both front, rear, and middle elements.
I have attached two files. One is the full image and the other is a cropped section. the images have been enhanced to magnify the aberrations.
Any suggestions as to what this is? I will be shooting more with tis lens tomorrow and another lens to eliminate the lens as a possibility
Also i shot a images a day later with a Sigma 105mm EX F/2.8 and the spots were not there
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
09-29-2014, 07:35 AM
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"..." Why would you want plain old TTL..." Because I shoot a lot of film and might get my hands on a Pentax 67 or 645. If the flash is not functioning correctly then I want one that will.
So the conclusion seems to be, the flash will only go into TTL mode when mounted on a camera which supports TTL mode, and cannot be tricked into this mode an other way.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
09-23-2014, 08:04 PM
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Since I do not have a Pentax 67 or 645 to mount the flash to I will never know if the unit will actually kick over to TTL mode. It certainly does not do it off camera. This is my first venture past the Vivitar 285HV and having poor instructions is certainly not helping that curve. Thanks for the help.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
09-23-2014, 05:33 PM
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Nope, Alakaline Batteries.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
09-23-2014, 05:26 PM
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Caver,
So what you are saying, in order for the flash to go into TTL mode it needs to be mounted to a TTL compatible camera which in this case would be a 67 II, or 645 series, and the flash cannot be forced into the TTL mode mounted on a non compatible camera or even on wireless remote? However, there is nothing to explain in the instructions what the SB mode is. It is described as the AF Spotbeam on page 8 of the instructions but beyond that, there is zip as to what this does. I have played with it in the dark and it appears it will just through a beam of red light to help AF the lens but will not trigger the flash. Jesus, is it too much to ask for at least one line in the instruction book.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
09-23-2014, 04:21 PM
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Two weeks ago I bought a new, never used Pentax AF 360 Flash from B&H photo. Shortly after opening it I noticed some odd thing such as intermittent firing off camera and no TTL mode available. I read the instruction carefully but still I could not get the flash into TTL mode.
I called up B&H and they took the return. They sent me out a new one and it arrived tonight. Again, I read through the instructions but still the flash does not go into TTL mode. Instead I get 4 Options P-TTL, A, M , and then it drops down into SB mode which should not even be an option. I have made a video and posted it to youtube. I have tried this mounted to my Pentax K5 as well as my K-1000 and I get the same results.
Video:
You Tube
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src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/KYzbdiZ2Nyk?controls=1" allowfullscreen>
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Does anyone know what is going on? Is this a batch of bad flash guns?
Any help would be appreciated.
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Forum: Pentax Compact Cameras
05-05-2014, 05:22 AM
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Import into Photoshop
Free transform/ skew to get the vertical lines vertical
import to Analog Efex Pro
12% detail extraction
14% brightness
27% contrast
21% saturation
Bokeh: 25 % Blur 14% highlights
Light Leaks: Crisp 33%
Dirt & Scratches: Dust/Lint 90%
Lens Vignette: -28%
Film type: warm 33% grain 455
Frames
Levels & Curves: make a shallow letter S
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Forum: Monthly Photo Contests
08-30-2013, 03:32 AM
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Forum: Post Your Photos!
07-01-2013, 05:44 PM
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
02-17-2013, 03:47 PM
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Another person had suggested infinite focus while a third had suggest near focus. In order to find out what it does I may need to intentionally align the front element out of it's original position and see what changes.
Thank you for the input.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
02-16-2013, 01:08 PM
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This is not a specific Pentax question as much as it is about a lens which mounts to a Pentax. I recently purchased a Tamron SP 24-135mm lens. It is working fine and may quickly become my go to lens. However, two weeks ago i was shooting at a "Color Me Rad" marathon where people are covered in copious quantities of colored chalk. The Tamron lens is not weather proof and as it turns out is far from chalk proof. After the shoot I cleaned my gear and saw a large amount of chalk between the first and second element.
Ugg!!
No worries, I am a smart guy, i have taken a lens apart before so I proceeded to dissect the front element. Easy, simple operation. I cleaned the two elements and assembled the glass in the same order I pulled it apart. Here in lies my question. I noticed the front element is held in place by three screws. These screws sit in slotted grooves which allow the front element to rotate about 10 degrees. The front element sits on a cam. By twisting the lens within these slotted grooves the front element can be adjusted forward or backward a very small distance when the three screws are loosened.
What does this micro adjustment used for? What does it effect?
I was careful not to move this adjustment when the glass was assembled again and everything seems to work fine. I have gotten several different answers to this question which are at times completely opposite in their functions.
pre cleaning photo:
Sweet Baby Blue Hair | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
Post cleaning photo:
Crap On My Desk | Flickr - Photo Sharing! |
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
05-22-2011, 04:49 AM
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The O-C ring allows you to step down the aperture once focusing is done. Set the aperture to 22 and then rotate the O-C ring to O which means Open. The aperture blades open back to the f/8 position. This allows focusing while not dimming the image as smaller apertures. Once focused move the ting back to C and the blades close back to f/22.
The lens is slow but relatively crisp for a lens that only has 2 elements.
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