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Forum: Pentax Price Watch
10-07-2018, 09:56 AM
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I'd like to ask each of the above commenters if they have ever actually owned the Zeiss 50mm f/1.4 lens? Also, have they ever owned a Pentax SMC Pentax M or A 50mm f/1.4 lens?
If they've never owned the Zeiss 50mm f/1.4 lens, I wonder on what they are basing their comments (such as "the Pentax mf lenses would kill this Zeiss"). Such sweeping comments sound to me like over generalizations by photographers who have little (if any) experience with this Zeiss lens.
I've owned 4 different copies of this Zeiss lens. While I not my favorite Zeiss 50mm lens (the Zeiss 50mm f/1.4 Milvus is much MUCH better) this older Zeiss "Classic" version 50mm f/1.4 lens does perform well if one works to its' strengths (Zeiss colors, wide open performance).
This 50mm f/1.4 ZK lens for sale on ebay is going for about twice what a ZF version of this lens goes for. I would not pay $500 for this ZK version, rather, I'd prefer to save $200 - $300 and buy this same lens in the ZF mount and adapt it to K mount.
Also, comparing lenses to me is more of a personal thing, based upon ones own visual preferences and style of photography. I've owned a couple of Pentax f/1.2 lenses, and never much cared for them. But I'd never put them down just because I don't happen to care for their performance at wider apertures.
Further, comparing this older Zeiss lens to a much newer and more expensive Pentax lens (DFA50), is probably not an apples to apples comparision. Of course the DFA50 is a better lens, and it costs three or four times what this older Zeiss costs also.
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Forum: Pentax Price Watch
08-29-2018, 12:22 PM
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Yesterday,
All my lenses seemed so far away.
Now it seems a new one's on its way.
Oh I believe,
In yesterday
Suddenly,
It's not quite the price it used to be.
There's a discount hanging over me.
Oh yesterday,
Came suddenly.
Why she had to glow
I don't know,
eBay didn't say.
I clicked "By Me" strong.
Now I'm glad,
For yesterday.
Yesterday,
Zoom was so more I'd have to pay.
Now I have some cash to stash away.
Oh I believe,
In Yesterday.
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Forum: General Photography
10-20-2017, 10:29 AM
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NASA put pictures of most of the Messier catalog as shot by Hubble on Flickr. Sure, it isn't Pentax, but I figure there are others like me who would enjoy it.
Hubble's Messier Catalog | Flickr |
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Forum: Pentax K-S1 & K-S2
05-11-2017, 07:02 PM
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I had what appears to be the same problem on my first K-r. It seemed the motor which drives the mirror/ aperture assembly was a bit weak. This then resulted in the cycle not completing after the shutter fired when certain lenses were mounted. It seems that the aperture lever in the lens makes the difference. Lenses where there was a strong spring and longer travel would push the actuator in the camera up to the top of its travel enough to let it complete the cycle whereas lenses with a shorter aperture lever movement or weaker spring (i.e. my Tamron 10-24 and Pentax F35-70) would not give it enough of a kick, thus leading it to stick (it seems the controller has to go all the way up to the top of its travel before it can come back down again to complete the cycle successfully). It makes no difference what aperture you shoot at as even when working wide open, the controller goes through its full travel up and down after the shutter has fired. The symptoms could vary: sometimes the camera would cycle twice, but more often than not the mirror would fall but not completely, thus resulting in a dark viewfinder and no AF.
I found I could replicate the problem by restricting the movement of the controller with my finger when firing the camera with no lens attached. Depending on how far it gets in the cycle, this could result in the mirror getting stuck completely up, or falling back but not re-seating fully. The latter case would also sometimes trigger mirror flap as the camera cycled to try to re-seat the mirror. Usually with no lens attached the camera cycles perfectly, but any slight sideways force on the plastic block of the controller (e.g. from the lens' aperture lever as it travels through its arc) could cause sticking and trigger the fault.
Latterly the problem became more frequent. I tried cleaning the little rail that the aperture controller in the camera runs on. This seemed to help for a short while but the problem came back with a vengeance. According to a local repair shop the camera needs a mirror box replacement. If your camera is still under warranty, I'd suggest sending it in for repair sooner rather than later.
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Forum: Pentax K-S1 & K-S2
05-11-2017, 02:01 PM
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Strange... If the mirror is hitting the lens, wouldn't it also sometimes get stuck on the way up (creating a frame that is only lit at the top of the image)?
A couple of questions:
1. Are there any scrape marks on the mirror edge or the offending lenses?
2. Is the problem worse when the lenses are at infinity (which is when the optical assembly is most likely to protrude into the mirror box)?
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Alternate theory:
Some of the lens have mount rings that are tighter or looser than others and they are pulling on the camera's mount ring is a way that distorts the mirror box and prevents normal mirror motion. Are any of the mount ring screws loose? Are the offending lenses easier or harder to mount? Can you see any scuff marks inside the mirror box where the mirror might be scraping the wall? Is the problem more prevalent during hot or cold operating conditions?
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Forum: Pentax K-S1 & K-S2
05-11-2017, 02:52 PM
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Curiouser and curiouser....
If the body's aperture control lever is actually coupled to the mirror, then a stiffer-than normal aperture lever on a lens could cause this issue. The camera body has to force the lens aperture open at the end of the photo. Perhaps some of the lenses are a bit stiff.
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
04-07-2017, 01:55 AM
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Here is something I can't believe that you'll do with a Pentax camera: shooting 7 continuous images with a Kingfisher in flight (I assume you know how erratic is their flight). This guy is a proffessional photographer. Getting one image here, two images there with chaotic birds can be done with almost any camera released in the last 3 years, but proffesionals are looking for this type of af (fast and precise). Why? Because they don't shoot birds on the branches, prefocusing and relying on manual focus and also on the DOF. They publish images with stories behind them in international magazines, images that require speed and precision. They're not interested in the number of megapixels. :)
Yes, Pentax has decent af for a lot of situations and for occasional BIF it's ok, but stop comparing Pentax K1 and K3 with 1Dx or D5/D500 because they are so different that even a child can see the differences.
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Forum: Sold Items
09-30-2016, 09:28 AM
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I too wish I had bought Google stock in 2006 - If you can transfer me 100 stocks at that price I will gladly take it....
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
08-14-2016, 12:04 PM
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Body 1 went back for dust in the view finder and dust stuck to the sensor that could not shift with a blower. It's not that big a deal. I've had similar with a D750 that arrived in a similar manner previously. It happens to every manufacturer.
Body 2 simply had what I consider to be a misaligned focus sensor (described earlier on page 1) - unable to focus DFA* 70-200, unable to focus 24-70 or 150-450 accurately after focus tune. The camera store confirmed and replaced with a third body.
Body 3 had much better focus performance but the issue with the sticking mirror as shown in the video that I provided on page 1. I was shooting a wedding when this occurred, thankfully I have a K3ii backup that has since become my primary.
With respect to commenting on my join date - March, and my likes per post as a community member here. I don't really feel that It's something that I need to defend or loose sleep over.
FWIW - I still shoot Pentax, I have a K3ii with either a 31mm or 77mm permanently welded to the thing and I shoot it daily. It's a great camera. I'm not married to a particular brand, I simply care about creating beatiful images. I do enjoy the Pentax community here who I regularly find to be very kind, helpful, open minded and pragmatic.
The tone of this thread is intended to promote those values (without diminishing your choice to buy a K1) but in the context of assisting others who may have experienced similar quality control issues and giving something back to the community in the form of useful information - PDF's on erratic focus tune, video demonstrating sticking mirror - that may help others get a positive resolution from either Ricoh or their dealer.
I'm not a brand jumper bashing for the sake of it. Put yourself in my shoes, you are shooting a wedding and mirror starts to stick on a body, you would want a resolution.
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
07-08-2016, 10:35 AM
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The German photo magazine "C't Digitale Fotografie" in issue 02/2016 had the only autofocus test procedure I have ever (!) seen which is repeatable, well documented and to be taken seriously.
Quite a contrast to the clown show at dpreview.
I just provide the results here to provide some facts versus the fanboy claims of "brand x nails every shot" level.
The magazine spent two full pages to document their test setup and methodology and measuring, which I am far to lazy to repeat here.
The shot about 3,900 images in total!
Setup in short:
- They set up a white beamer canvas against which a beamer projected images of a small flash program which displayed either a swallow or a female face and these were moving at a predefined speed across the image.
- The camera was sideways to the canvas and shot the image from a 30 degree angle (the subject images were electronically distorted to provide a normal look from 30 degrees).
3 Test scenarios for all cameras:
- Tracking
The camera on a tripod was zoomed to cover the whole image area with AF points. A bird (black and white with extra contrast marker) and also a face (much softer contrasts) image flew across the canvas from edge to edge (remember the edges are in different distances). The lens was manually set to middle distance at start.
- Follow focus center AF point
Same bird, but now the camera was set on a swivel panoramic head and a user turned the camera to keep the subject under the AF point. So the camera just had to adjust z-axis
- Focus with obstacle
A little real life plant was set in the middle between the canvas and the camera. A face moved from left to right over the screen (thus was hidden briefly by the plant), while the camera was panning, following the face. Just the type of scenario you set your Pentax AF hold parameter to "high" for.
"Sharpness" evaluation criteria:
They did not even rely on human arbitrary judgementto call an image "sharp", they used an automated analysis of the structured canvas and beamer signal creating moire where the focus area was sufficiently sharp (they looked at contrast curves. I can not really explain how they look, but it is extremely obvious where the focus was) . Their criteria were possible due to the fact that by using the angled canvas approach their target subject always showed some depth and it was not just a flat object which appeared sharp or not.
- "sharp" = target subject fully in focus
- "mediocre" at least half of the target subject in focus area (like the back wheel of a bicycle)
- "unacceptable" = target out of focus
Results:
- Not one camera even came close to "nailed every shot". Let alone one brand.
The authors declared Canon cameras to be in the lead by a small margin. They were completely disappointed from the Sony.
- Hugely lens dependant
- Practically nothing there where one can generalize from. Hugely dependent on exact camera/lens/scenario combination.
Anyone could redo the exact same test as it is well documented and the subjects are computer generated. You just need a flash program or a video of the target. I do consider the setup to be rather smart. You can redo that in your large garage.
Obviously the range difference obtainable is limited by the size of the canvas, so you can not simulate that fighter plane directly coming at you from infinity. But given the soso results this setup is interesting enough.
This is a test that comes close to scientific requirements and standards.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
07-06-2016, 04:04 AM
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I think you probably meant a false premise rather than a red herring.
Thanks so much for adding your opinion tho. Having personally read recent comments here where other opinions included statements that there's negligible differences in images between the three lenses I mentioned I thought it appropriate to voice my own. I wasn't speaking to those whose primary concern was the cost of those three options which I assumed would have been the takeaway from the very first sentence: "In case anyone serious about their "people" shots is wavering...".
Of course if money is just as or more important than IQ there are very acceptable substitutes but I'm not finding them equals of the DA*55 in the 50mm range. Just personal experience and I really did want the Sigma 17-50 to be "it".
BTW are herring and sardines pretty similar? I should look that up.
EDIT: Yes they are.
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Forum: Sold Items
06-19-2016, 07:33 AM
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hmmmm ok thanks for that. I wonder if it is cleanable (and the haze is something other than element separation). Anyway I trust your judgement (and am tempted to try a clean).
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Forum: Sold Items
06-03-2016, 10:31 PM
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Bump for the outstanding FA* 300 f/4.5. It is a lens capable of gorgeous image quality. I love my copy. It's not motorized or weather sealed but it is sprinkled with Pixie dust.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
12-08-2014, 07:28 AM
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See this post for pictures:
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/10-pentax-slr-lens-discussion/121842-prob...ml#post1262737
1) Remove the hood.
2) Remove the center "beauty ring" - note that it does not include the plate with the name, specs, and serial number. It is actually held in place with double-side tape. Using a very small flat screwdriver, pry up around the edges of the optic (it can be done without touching the glass, just be careful). There is a second beauty ring with the name, etc., but it can be left where it is.
3) This will expose three cross-point screws. Remove these screws, and the front ring that the hood attaches to will come off.
4) This will expose the three problem screws. They are around the outer edge of the lens - it should not be necessary to touch any of the other screws. Check that the three outer screws are tight (but not too tight, or the lens won't be able to focus). Apply locktite.
5) Reverse steps 3-1.
If you have a lens that has come apart, the most important thing is do NOT bump or squash the brass AF contact "comb". It is frightfully easy to bend or break, and then the lens won't autofocus. If you bend a contact, Don't Panic! It should be possible to straighten it by squeezing gently between your fingers. Just go slow and be gentle. Getting the front half of the lens reinserted in the back half can be a little tricky because of the comb. Rather than inserting it straight in, you have to hook the piece with the comb into the back half of the lens, then jiggle the rest in place. I got most of the way there, then had to hold everything together in my left hand so that I could get at the rear of the lens and line up the aperture linkages with a small screwdriver.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
04-05-2014, 07:08 PM
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Grahame,
You can also unscrew the bell shaped part of the barrel that the front element screws into and this gives you a small amount of access to the focus helical. this may be enough for some cleaning and relubing.
Good Luck :)
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
04-04-2014, 12:58 AM
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One stupid question... How do You know that this is different from others Takumars? This was helpful for me:
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
07-11-2012, 05:53 PM
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grahame, have you managed to open up the lens? I could open up the front element group of mine with no difficulty.
By the way, when you take apart the front element, you will find it is a group of glass in one assembly. To open up the package, hold it at the side and insert the caliper in same slots you use to loosen it from the mount. You can remove the front most glass. Once the front glass is off, turn it upside down and tap a little and the middle piece will come off. However, if the stain is on the rear side of the front piece, or on front side of the middle piece, do not take it off. You'll introduce dust when assembling back.
To clean, a cotton bud with some alcohol followed by a buff with lens tissue is pretty sufficient.
The front element of this lens is very easy to deal with. You certainly do not need to bring it to China.:D
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Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II
07-09-2012, 02:07 PM
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I have a K-5 and 360 and have encountered no real issues.
See whether everything is basically working (I'll assume you're indoors):
- Set your camera to manual mode
- Select, for example, F5.6 aperture, 1/180 shutter speed and 100 ISO. The exposure meter on the back should go off the scale (you'll be around 5EV or more underexposed)
- Take a shot: P-TTL should do its thing and give you a correct exposure (it should work when you're using bounce too).
If this is blowing everything out to white, you have an issue either with the flash or the body.
If you use HSS, you'll probably have to dial in positive flash compensation as you reduce the shutter speed.
Av, in my experience, is not good for flash. Manual is the correct mode if you think about it: you dial in the values that you would like (low ISO, fast shutter, aperture to taste) and then let the flash actually make that exposure possible.
Something else that strikes me: if you're trying to use fill flash, you may be hitting the lower limit of flash output, Minimum output on the AF360 is 1/32 full output and this may well be too bright.
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Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II
07-06-2012, 08:03 PM
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I cannot duplicate the problems you are seeing. I just set the ISO manually and the camera to Tv mode. I adjusted the ISO upwards until the camera metered for a reasonable aperture with the shutter speed fixed at 1/500.
I turned on my AF540 and set it to HSS and took a shot in my backyard with some shaded and sunlit areas. The camera exposed well and the flash filled the shaded areas.
I just looked at the AF360 manual and it appears that the 360 and 540 have a very similar layout and that HSS works just as described in the 540 manual: You simply set the flash switch on the rear as far right as it will go, which is HSS mode, and whenever the camera shutter speed is higher than 1/180, the flash uses HSS.
The manual lists not having HSS in P (they call it programmed AE) mode as the only imitation (other than reduced flash output in HSS mode).
I will scroll through my settings to see if there is anything specific relative to HSS, but off the top of my head, I do not think there is anything in the menus that should affect this.
Ray
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Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II
07-06-2012, 09:54 AM
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I just got off the phone with Pentax support. He indicated that "Pentax Japan is aware of the issues" and that there is no firmware updates, past or planned, to address it. Nor did he have any suggestions for how to remedy, or mitigate the problem, only said that it is apparently a "limitation" of the hardware and circuitry. This is extremely disappointing. It means that the K5 cannot be used with a fill flash in high speed sync mode. That is the most common scenario in which I shoot portraits, which is the foundation of my work. I guess I should have gone with the big boys.
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