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Forum: General Photography
02-14-2024, 06:19 PM
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Forum: Pentax Q
05-03-2015, 11:38 AM
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600/5.6 on Q7 w/ OEM Pentax K adapter
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Forum: Photographic Industry and Professionals
10-23-2023, 08:59 AM
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Existing products can continue to be sold as long as they don't change them otherwise.
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Forum: Photographic Industry and Professionals
10-23-2023, 09:12 AM
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Not what I've read. You're saying all products made before this ruling sitting on shelves have to be thrown out? And also no new runs of them can be made (without changes)? Both are allowed according to what I've read, but could be wrong. Seems crazy though.
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Forum: Pentax Q
08-31-2023, 10:17 PM
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That feature is to help you focus, it doesn't change the actual aspect ratio of the taken image. There is no "digital zoom" like you might find on a phone. (All that does is crop anyway, so you aren't losing anything by not having it other than having to crop yourself later.) There are a couple of different aspect ratios you can choose from on the Q7 (but not while you're taking the shot) -- you can choose 4:3 vs 16:9 vs 1:1, but again, they are just cropping so unless you've got a special reason to not use the native 4:3 (the others do make smaller sized images) I'd just leave it at full resolution.
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Forum: General Photography
08-31-2023, 01:33 PM
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Shots have to cut together and different lenses are used for different shots and those different lenses have different levels of light transmission, so if you equalize the true exposure with t-stops, its much less headache in post.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
07-10-2023, 08:16 PM
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...and because it is a simple screw-on hood, it is easily replaced by any cheap third-party hood with the correct diameter threads. Fantastic lens.
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Forum: General Photography
03-17-2023, 02:22 PM
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Some lenses just meter differently as well. Why not just dial-in some EV compensation? That's what it's for. 1 1/2 stops seems like a lot, but it isn't unusual that I have to set some lenses to -.7 EV. And if you're center metering and the center is darker than the bright spots of course they are going to get blown out and you need to adjust for that. (Not really lens-specific though unless it is just a certain type of shot you are only taking with that lens.) You'll also get wonky exposure if you are locking-in exposure settings and then zooming in/out before hitting the shutter.
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Forum: Pentax Compact Cameras
03-11-2023, 05:13 PM
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The Optio WG-1 (waterproof handheld) had decent specs (14mp) but didn't shoot RAW. (There is also a Ricoh WG-50 that I never heard of until just now.)
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
03-10-2023, 03:03 PM
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Forum: Accessory and Memory Articles
02-28-2023, 11:37 AM
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With the genuine ones, you really need to leave in the spring/lock because they are much more loose in the mount than the knockoffs. And if you leave the spring in, you've got to unscrew the lens from the adapter to get it off the body. Anyway, with my genuine ones, I use them as they were designed -- as *body* adapters not lens adapters -- they just work better that way.
However, the knockoffs are always way tighter and if you leave in the spring THEY WILL GET STUCK at some point. So with those I take the spring out immediately and I just screw them on the lenses that I want to use. (But without the spring the lens is never totally locked on the body.)
Although I do "leave them on the lens", I do not lock them on the lens permanently or even semi-permanently as I have way more lenses than adapters, and there is just no need -- they don't fall off or anything. So I just mean I leave them on the lenses generally (i.e. the lenses I've got that day) and then I can mount and unmount them quickly like K-mount lenses.
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Forum: Accessory and Memory Articles
02-27-2023, 09:36 AM
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Buy the cheap knockoffs of the genuine one (with no flange so you get infinity focus), remove the little spring before you ever use it (or else you are in danger of being driven insane when it gets stuck on camera), and then you just leave it on the lens. (The genuine one is not good for leaving on the lens btw). The only drawback is you've got a friction fit to the body now which is usually fine but if your old lens is stiff, sometimes it will turn out of the mount when you are focusing which could lead to disaster. (Usually you're using m42 lenses in a pretty deliberate way, but you do need to be careful with that.) I've got a whole cabinet of m42 lenses I use in this style.
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
02-13-2023, 12:15 PM
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Contacts would be necessary but sufficient -- older Pentax 'A' series lenses would not count. There needs to be a chip in there for id I think. I'm not sure what lenses would qualify -- possibly the offerings from Irix, maybe Samyang?
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Forum: Pentax Q
01-26-2023, 09:49 AM
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There really is no substitute, but I've seen some surprisingly good results (from posts here) using C & D adapted lenses (CCTV lenses, etc). Nothing else will be that wide on the Q.
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
07-07-2014, 03:06 PM
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The day is coming, as they have already accomplished this in research on a small scale...I've seen it. There is a paper describing it with examples posted around here somewhere. What it was...was they used extremely simple optics -- one or two element lenses that produced crappy blurry images but then applied the knowledge of the way the light was spreading etc (point spread functions and things I don't understand) to "fix it" in the computer and end up with images that look they were shot with much higher-end lenses. I don't see any reason why such ideas could not be applied to diffraction. I've actually been dabbling with something similar myself, but with a totally different approach (since I don't understand point spread functions, etc). I've seen similar "fixing" of motion-blurred images by use of motion sensors at capture time to record the vibrations. The idea (put simply) in either case is that the light is supposed to be here, but it is somewhere else instead (but still captured), and so if you can model or have a profile of the way it went wrong, you can undo it and put the light back where it is supposed to be. Seems like making a diffraction profile of a particular lens at a particular aperture would actually be one of the easier and most obvious applications of such tech, and so it starts...
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Forum: Pentax Q
09-24-2022, 08:11 AM
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The card is locked to be read-only? (The little sliding tab on the side that you can set to make sure you don't erase it.)
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
08-30-2016, 08:13 AM
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It is not supposed to move when you turn the ring. Only during shot, or for "green-button" metering. It will be wide-open the rest of the time if mounted and the camera is on. (I think on the K-01 it opens up when you power it up cause it is mirrorless -- every DSLR model it is open if mounted.)
Camera should be in M mode, and TURN OFF auto-iso (this is usually the gotcha -- it is in TAV mode on K-01 if auto-iso is enabled, not true Manual. ISO must be set to fixed number).
See here, if you haven't already:
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/54-pentax-lens-articles/110657-how-use-me...k-x-k-7-a.html |
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
06-02-2022, 08:11 AM
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The Kenko PZ-AF 1.5x SHQ is the same as the Tamron, possibly with different coatings. I've compared all of these side-by-side and the ONLY difference I could tell was slight color cast shifts which I would attribute to coatings. Again I don't know if that's a Kenko-vs-Tamron thing or just different generations of manufacturing. (One was a little pinkish/magenta, the other more green.) The Pentax was more neutral but not noticeably better than the other two in terms of detail under controlled conditions. However, in the real world the camera communication advantage is huge because if you are using a TC, you are probably shooting with a long lens and getting the shake reduction to work at it best is going to get you better results in that regard. (Certainly if you are working handheld.) So the Pentax is well worth it, but the idea that you're going to be blown away by the optical difference from the Tamron if you already have that is just unfounded -- good copies of the Tamron or Kenko are very very good. (And I've had like a dozen of them -- the only bad ones I've had were fogged inside as they are fairly simple construction and well-made.) There is also a good argument to be made that with the bodies we have these days, a 1.4x TC is fairly pointless and you should just crop and the results will be just as good. I can't argue with that either -- but having the extra reach through the viewfinder just helps me focus a little bit better (unless the light is poor, then it is better to take it off). But there aren't really situations where you can't a shot you couldn't otherwise with the same lens just because you don't have a TC mounted if you are using any of these modern DSLRs (especially at 24MP+).
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
06-01-2022, 06:22 PM
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Eh...the Tamron is pretty good optically unless you've got a messed up copy -- they are not far apart there. (There are different coatings from different generations or maybe Tamron vs Kenko though.) The Pentax has the big advantage of communicating the proper aperture adjusted focal length. The Tamron is also full frame and the Pentax is not.
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Forum: Photographic Industry and Professionals
05-27-2022, 02:11 PM
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Other than clicking on a link that goes there once in a while, I've done perfectly fine without ever looking at DPReview -- not even sure why they are brought up as if they control everything. If reading about these trends make you sick...stop reading about them and go shoot what you enjoy.
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Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
05-12-2022, 07:12 PM
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They shoot light in all directions. They're actually pretty useful -- I've got a couple of them for the old Vivitar system.
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Forum: Repairs and Warranty Service
05-12-2022, 07:11 PM
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Might be AF screw -- set AF switch to MF and see if you can get the screw to retract (give it some hard taps while wiggling the adapter).
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
04-27-2022, 12:10 PM
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Yep -- it is meant to give AF to MF lenses on AF bodies, not the other way around.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
04-14-2022, 10:00 AM
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Dumb question but is it really frozen or are you not engaging the spring mechanism of the preset, i.e. that ring that you have "works" pointing to with a blue line is not just a ring but also a spring-loaded switch, i.e. it is SUPPOSED to be locked into a minimum aperture unless you push/pull it to set it to a different aperture. If it is set on the widest aperture (f4 here) it can appear that it won't move at all. (At least most such presets are like that although there are some that don't have a switch.)
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Forum: General Photography
04-09-2022, 09:07 AM
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But all the best bokeh lenses are from the 35mm era...
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