|
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
04-02-2017, 06:13 AM
|
| |
Be sure to drink to its death with an Asahi beer. :p
|
|
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
03-31-2017, 03:08 PM
|
| |
Those pictures are excellent compared to my first ones! KEEP shooting, you are in the right track.
|
|
Forum: Pentax Q
03-24-2017, 05:54 PM
|
| |
| |
|
Forum: Pentax Mirrorless Cameras
03-20-2017, 12:36 PM
|
| |
Two ways to travel light by John Flores, on Flickr
The new GX850 is the successor to the GM1 and GM5. Panasonic has two collapsible zooms - 12-32 and 35-100 Vario which work well for typical vacation shots. The 12-32 is actually smaller than the 02 zoom because it collapses. The 35-100 collapses to the same size as the 06 zoom but is slightly bulkier. It is not constant aperture like the 06 but it does have optical stabilization. And the Panasonic cameras have much better video than the Q. But one place where the Q has the clear advantage is wide angle - there is no compact Micro Four-Thirds equivalent to 08 wide angle zoom. Olympus has some wide angle zooms that are pretty small though.
|
|
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
03-19-2017, 11:03 PM
|
| |
Yep, the MX's shutter speed dial is plenty stiff, but because of the body's diminutive size, it is easy to cradle in my left hand so I can keep my eye at the viewfinder while turning the dial.
|
|
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
03-16-2017, 09:43 PM
|
| |
Depending on when/where you need a exposure setting (to simplify) use one of three good methods--incident (light) meter, reflected (light) meter, and of course there are meters that have both incident and reflected light methods--so here I am saying which method is usually more reliable, and a table of/remember sunny 16 (and it's adjustment) values.
1. For outdoors in daylight: an incident meter is quite good (I like Sekonic L-398, it is precise, reasonably robust, and does not use batteries).
As an alternative the variations on the sunny 16 rule (sunny bright and strong shadows: f/16 +1/iso seconds, less sun weak shadows f/11 + 1/iso, etc.) are usually good; and under very strong sunny lighting--it may be the most accurate. In strong sunlight a camera/reflected light meter is the most difficult method and there is no reason to use it.
2. Indoors likely reflected light meter or incident meter--whichever you like more.
3. Night--distant lit scene, light transmitted through objects, and generally when you cannot measure the light falling on the scene, use a reflected (with more narrow acceptance angle) light meter.
4. If there is a condition you often do make a mental note (or write it down) and then use it. As an example a dark scene with distant strong lights (and the distant lights are what you want to capture) is impossible for any metering system to get right--but it is so typical when it happens you recognize it.
|
|
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
03-16-2017, 05:42 PM
|
| |
My experience has been that the light meter apps perform rather poorly (inconsistent and inaccurate). A decent quality hand-held meter OTOH will last a lifetime, even if purchased used. I have a Sekonic Twinmate L-208 that goes with me pretty much whenever I go out shooting. It is compact and a decent meter at $125 USD. Several years older and essentially equivalent is the Gossen Super Pilot. KEH has one right now in Ex condition for $25. The only glitch is that it runs on the now-banned PX-13 battery meaning that a Kanto MR-9 adapter must be purchased (costs the same or more than the meter*) or else have the meter calibrated to use S625PX silver-cell. :( If it were me and I did not already have a meter, I would get the Super Pilot and see how far off it is with a silver cell.
A few years ago I wrote an article for Hinman's blog regarding a meter I was very fond of. I got the Sekonic L-208 when that one died.
Hin's Photo Corner: Newest, Most Favorite Gadget: Compact Exposure Meters
Steve
* The Kanto MR-9 adapter is available on eBay for about $28 USD from Japan (shipping included). I have one that I use with several vintage bodies that take the PX-13 battery.
|
|
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
03-12-2017, 02:03 AM
|
| |
As far as I recall no eye cups were offered. Diopter correction lenses were, but they did not block the film door. Here is an overview of viewfinder accessories.
|
|
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
03-12-2017, 02:19 AM
|
| |
There were round rubber eyecups from Pentax for ME and MX back in the 70'ies. They were OK, but not high quality items.
|
|
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
03-12-2017, 02:19 AM
|
| |
Not listed is the Eyepiece Magnifier M which is the earlier version of the FB.
There were a couple Refconverter As listed on KEH a couple weeks ago at reasonable prices. Probably gone by now. Ebay can be a long wait for this - few listings and plenty of bidding.
|
|
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
03-11-2017, 12:40 PM
|
| |
MX pattern from a Pentax Sales Brochure, I've got similar brochures for the LX, but no pattern graphic, just "Center Weighted" in the text
|
|
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
03-03-2017, 08:49 PM
|
| |
I quite often stop at #35 deliberately - among other things, the negative sleeves I bought to store my home-cooked B&W negs in are designed to take seven strips of five (though in fairness, 6x6 would be awkward for most folders). Thirty-six shots (or the rare film that I manage to milk 37 out of) can actually be a pain in the neck!!
|
|
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
02-27-2017, 04:11 PM
|
| |
The MX has a damper to absorb mirror impact, which is why they left off lock-up. The mirror going up has a very soft sound. It is the return that has the clang, and likely caused the shake you saw. I have hand held at very low speeds on my MX without a problem.
|
