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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 02-05-2013, 10:24 AM  
Dirt/spots on my pictures :( Please help
Posted By Tom Woj
Replies: 15
Views: 2,640
Wouldn't worry, just looks like dust on sensor/back of lens.

Do a dust removal / sensor shake thing in the menu a couple of times first to see if that works. If not clean the rear element of the lens. Invest in a little rocket blower to clean bits of dust off the sensor too. :)
Forum: Photographic Industry and Professionals 02-01-2013, 06:35 PM  
OMG!
Posted By Tom Woj
Replies: 21
Views: 2,584
"It's not blury, it's artistic."

"My photo is ace, your interpretation of it is wrong."

"I am challenging the accepted rules of photography by cutting people's heads off."

"Aliens."
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 03-31-2012, 02:55 AM  
Fight shots setting the Shutter speed on a K-x
Posted By Tom Woj
Replies: 15
Views: 3,655
^^

What Black Mesa is talking about with EXIF data: It's information from the camera that is mixed-in/added on to the image file. You can use your photo editing software to view it, or if you're browsing flickr for example, you can click on the camera name to the right of the pic like this:



This will take you to this sort of screen:



Where it'll list all the capture information from the camera. It'll say what shutter speed, aperture, focal length, the lens, body, flash (if it fired) etc etc

So it's a good way to find out how people are achieving the images you need - go to flickr, search for some fight/sport shots, take a look at the EXIF, and you'll see what settings they were at. You can also see this info by viewing the properties of an image on windows, and I presume somewhere similar on a mac.

Quick Guide

What you're going to find is that, especially for indoors and low lighting sport photography, you will need either fast (and expensive :() lenses - or to bump the ISO up fairly high to get the shutter speed you need, which on lower-end camera's, can introduce a lot of unwanted noise. There is a reason pro's have 70-200 2.8's, or 300mm 2.8's, and they cost a LOT!

For those of us who don't have money to blow on such items? Well, there are a few things you can do.

1. Forget auto mode for a day.

When you are on AV, or TV, or Auto-whatever, the camera is trying to get everything in your shot, and mix it so that the end result is "balanced". It will not know, nor care, what elements are in your shot, or why you are shooting them.

Your first shot for example. It has

A large portion of the sky
  • A large portion of the sky

  • A bit of the fence

  • The two fighters



It has tried to expose for all of them at the same time - but with the sky being so bright, the guy's back, the camera-man, as well as the fence, are becomming almost completeley black. You need to tell the camera, "Ok, I'm taking a picture of the fighters, they're my subject, they are the thing to expose for."

How to do this? A few ways.

If your lighting is going to stay constant, and your going to be shooting a lot of shots in the same area (as in that pit/arena bit), go to manual. Start at say 1/300 shutter speed or more, get your lens wide open, then set your ISO to whatever/anything/a starting point. Take a test shot, and see if the subject is correctly exposed. Then take a look at the rest of your scene and decide what's important. Are the fighters correctly exposed? Has the sky gone pure white? Will that matter if I'm trying to show the fighters? Should I angle down a bit so the sky is'nt there? Should I try and get a middle ground of everything?

Once you start asking those things, it then becomes more like little logical steps, rather than letting your camera do the guess work. Over time it becomes easier than you think.

Are the fighters blurry? Yes? - Ok, increase the shutter speed by 3 clicks (one stop of light) - If you increased your shutter speed, you now need to adjust either your apeture or ISO to compensate. Your shutter speed went up by a stop, and since your lens can't open up any more than it already is, you need to increase your ISO by one stop to even it out - so go from 400 iso for example, to 800.

Take another shot

Ok my fighters are no longer blurry, are they too bright? Yes? Well you can either turn down the ISO, or close your aperture down.

Take another.

All ok? Great! You can now leave those settings as they are to use as a starting point.

Sine the lighting is pretty much the same, and your subjects are the same, you don't need to change the settings much at all throughout the night. If the lighting is constant, once your settings are set, they're set! If you do need to change something, you can try to pre-emptively see it, and adjust accordingly.

Let's say the fighters are moving to the other-side of the ring- hold up - it's brighter over there. Guess how much brighter, and then turn your shutter speed up slightly to compensate. Take another shot, check it again, take another, check, and repeat. How about if it's outisde and the sky is getting darker as the night goes on? You know it's getting darker, so as you review your shots, compensate for it! Go a little lower with the shutter speed again, if it's too low, you will need to insrease that iso, repeat, repeat, and be checking all night - the more you work in that manual and logical way, the quicker you will get at adjusting the settings on the fly, and most importantly, you will be conrolling the elements of the picure, and telling the camera exactly what you want it to do - not what it thinks you want. Practice with this again and again, and it'll become second nature, leaving you to think about composition too, and everything all at once. :P

As a tip - if your shutter speed is just too slow, and the ISO is getting so high that you don't want to push it any further, you can deliberatly under-expose by a third/two thirds/one stop by increasing shutter-speed, and then add that eposure back into the shot while editing. This can sometimes result in less-noise than you would have had maxing the iso too high.

Looking at the two shot's you linked, they seem to be at different end's of the spectrum. Your first is at (according to the EXIF) f4, 70mm, ISO 200, 1600 - that shutter speed is too probably too high, and at 200 iso as well, so you have a lot of breathing room left in that.

Stabalising Longer Lenses

As a sort of guide, you need at least 1/focal length to get a shot steady, and that's before taking into account the movement of the subjects. So if you're using a 200mm zoom lens, you should be aiming for at least 1/200th second to get a steady handheld shot. If you use telephoto, maybe get a monopod/tripod, or stabilise yourself against a wall/post/anything to make your body more stable.

Also, don't underestimate motion blur in your shot. In sport, people expect movement. If you capture a punch just before it lands, and it is completely frozen, you will probably lose the power and force of that punch when the viewer looks at it, it could look flat/too static.

If the camera just isn't working for you, you've upped the ISO so high that the picture is noisey as hell, turn it black and white. Colour noise is the most distracting at higher ISO levels. Conver to black and white, and you can rescue/create some great pictures where colour just isn't working.

Similarly don't focus all your time on getting that crisp-clean-blur-free shot. See what else you can get. Do the fighters take breaks? Get in-close as they're resting, capture the fatigue on their face. Capture the crowd - grab a wide angle lens, and get a wide view of the arena, capture that atmosphere.

Finaly, push the limits of the camera. Whack it up to the highest ISO it can go and see if you can pull off a shot, use burst-mode and fire off a bunch of shots, practice following the fighters movements and panning with them while taking a shot. The more you push what you have, the better you will understand what to buy next.

Ok I've rambled on far too long here, and my coffee is cold! :p

Hope that helped....or helped someone at least...

Woj
Forum: Photographic Technique 01-06-2012, 05:08 AM  
photography in the Snow
Posted By Tom Woj
Replies: 11
Views: 1,447
Remembered a youtube vid I saw a while back of some guy on his snowboarding/ski trip. Seems like some good tips in it.

WP Photography - Photography in Austria - YouTube
Forum: Photo Critique 05-22-2012, 12:13 AM  
Landscape First clouds processing
Posted By Tom Woj
Replies: 10
Views: 986
I agree it looks a little bit fake, mostly due to the colour. Also because of the rays of light comming down from the sky, which may or may not be fake, but because the colour is a bit off they give that impression.

More important to me however, are the blown out highlights on the water. You're losing a lot of detail there, and it makes it look too sharp/pixelated. You shot it at f5.6 1/1000 iso 160 - if you'd stopped down a little so that you kept that highlight detail, and then raised the shadows in post, you'd have much more control.

You can raise the level of shadows far far easier than lowering highlights. Once those highlights go to white, that's it! They're gone.

Nice capture though, and I too would love to see an unprocessed version. :)

EDIT:

My quick take on it. Converted to black and white, little bit of a blue tint (blue is calming which I thought fit quite well, could have used orange/red to get a warmer feeling), and played around with tone curves/exposure etc in lightroom to get a bit more contrast in the clouds, and really bring those light rays out. Also put a grad filter on the top half of the image to under expose the sky a little. Used a filter on the water and adjusted clarity so it would blur the highlights a little, and then roughly masked out the boat and bumped the exposure on it just a touch. Finished off with a vingette to draw the viewers eye more towards the boat.

Not saying thats how it should be done, definetley not, but just some ideas to get you going. With a high res version of this you could do so much great stuff with it! Even more so if you shot it in RAW. :D
Forum: Pentax K-r 04-23-2012, 06:10 PM  
Catch in focus problem
Posted By Tom Woj
Replies: 18
Views: 5,048
@JustLinnea:

Also make sure you change the setting in the 'custom' bit of the menu that allows the camera to fire without an auto lens attached. Can't remember the name. "Allow aperture setting other than A" according to https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-beginners-corner-q/110658-using-ma...x-dslrs-f.html - check that thread for more info on using manual lenses.
Forum: Pentax K-r 04-14-2012, 09:12 PM  
Amateur question about shooting indoors
Posted By Tom Woj
Replies: 15
Views: 2,917
Theres a few ways, most image editing apps can show exif data. You can also save the .jpg somewhere and, (for windows at least) right click -> properties -> details tab.

Recently I've been using a chrome plugin to do it though. You can just right click on the image in chrome -> show EXIF, and it'll open up a tab on the right with all the info, PLUS a histogram! :D

https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/lplmljfembbkocngnlkkdgabpnfokmnl
Forum: Pentax K-r 04-14-2012, 04:23 PM  
Amateur question about shooting indoors
Posted By Tom Woj
Replies: 15
Views: 2,917
It's all because of your shutter speed.

The shutter speed is how fast the shutter opens and closes, the slower it is, the more blur you will get. This is even more apparant when the focal length increases. The reason you have no problems with flash or outdoor shooting is because theres enough light getting to the camera - so your shutter speed will be higher.

That picture was shot at 800 iso, 55 mm, 1/15 second shutter speed. Theres your problem, 1/15 is too slow. You want at least 1/(focal length) to get rid of shake from your hands, and then maybe even further still if your subject is moving faster. So for example at 55mm you want 1/60 odd, and at 300mm you'll be wanting closer to 1/300. The built in shake-reduction will let you go a bit slower than this rule, by how much depends on how steady you are with your hands.

Either grab a faster lens, or up the ISO untill you get a fast enough shutter speed to get rid of the blur. :) Try Tv (shutter priority) mode with a fast shutter speed next time, but just be aware the higher the ISO, the more noise you will get.

A tripod could help, but not that much. The 55-300 isn't all that heavy, so you should be fine hand holding it. If you are having issues, just try and brace your arms and have the camera right up against your face to minimize any shake, or brace yourself against a wall/whatever is around.
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