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Forum: Post Your Photos!
11-13-2022, 02:35 PM
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Forum: Lens Clubs
12-01-2012, 08:50 AM
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And when I reached the top of the hill, I experimented a bit with HDRing the religious trademark of my town.
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Forum: Lens Clubs
12-01-2012, 08:46 AM
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The pic above was taken when I went for a walk in the forest below.
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Forum: Lens Clubs
12-01-2012, 08:43 AM
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Hello again everyone.
Some news about my erratic AT-X Pro 28-70 2.6-2.8.
The lens has a personality all on its own and manages to be my worst and my best lens at the same time.
I figured I had to add +7 focus fine tuning for the thing to focus accurately, unless in a very dim room with tungsten lighting when it needs -10... Go figure...
I didn't have the chance to have it checked so I'll have to live with its idiosyncrasies for some time.
Anyway, when stopped down it produces far better images than my 18-55 WR kit lens.
So, no more whining for now. Here are some shots of this lens that I like quite much.
A Smurfhouse. Indicated ISO 2000, focal length 400mm, shutter 1/250, f16. Real exif ISO 2000, focal length 70mm, shutter 1/250, f8.
Note how in Av mode the ISO goes to 2000 and the speed to 1/250, just because the lens tells to the camera that it's a 400mm lens working at f16 instead of f8...
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Forum: Pentax Compact Cameras
10-24-2012, 06:07 AM
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I used to have the TS3/FT3, which is essentially the same as the TS4/FT4 minus some features. I had bought it earlier in the summer and used it quite a lot underwater in no more than 3m depths while snorkeling. Took about 700 photos with it and it never missed a beat.
After the summer ended, I sold it and got rid of it. I found its image quality both under and out of the water to be quite mediocre, even for a point and shoot. I wouldn't consider the WG-2 because from the sample images I've seen around, even here in the Pentaxforums review, it has image quality that's even worse (cr@p to be honest). Unless something interesting comes up, I 'll give a chance to the Olympus TG-1 next summer.
Pentax must put a better sensor with less pixels to the WG-2, if it wants to get my money.
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Forum: Lens Clubs
10-08-2012, 10:47 PM
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Thanks Peter Zack for your response.
I also have ordered many things over the years from ebay, with more than 500 transactions. From cheap books and CDs to parts for my bicycle and car, and then some camera things. Did not have a single problem, and always the items were as described. One item was a SMC FA 35-80mm, bought for about 10 euros and turned out to be a really nice surprise. Only once the seller was probably a crook and didn't send an underwater Panasonic FT3 within a month, but Paypal took care of this and got my full money back.
In the Tokina case, the seller clearly claimed that didn't know much about the situation of the lens so I really took my chances. I may look for a better one at some point but not just yet. I'll try to see if it's fixable first.
About the test you mention, I already did that. Well sort of... The light was not great, a typical indoors fluorescent bulb within a lamp, that allowed only for high ISO, the camera on a small but stable tripod, but the angle of view was about 15 degrees and not 45. At first I found that it needed a +6 focus adjustment but then decided that my testing was not sufficient enough and reseted it... I 'll try and do the test again following your advice.
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Forum: Lens Clubs
10-08-2012, 04:08 PM
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Here, I tried to lock focus on the white monument at the top of the hill.
I couldn't do it until I stopped down to an indicated f11. Is this due to some electrical problem?
I'll repeat the same test on distance objects to confirm this problem because it doesn't make sense...
Indicated 400 mm, f11, 1/640sec, ISO 160 (real 70mm, f5.6)
Attachment 142904 |
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Forum: Lens Clubs
10-08-2012, 03:58 PM
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Here's another theme. A lighter on the grass.
At 35 mm, the indicated exif is real. So this was taken at 35 mm, f2.8, 1/160sec, ISO 160.
Attachment 142899
A 1:1 crop looks ugly...
Attachment 142900
At 35 mm, f10, 1/80sec, ISO 800, things improve but are still not, uhh, impressive...
Attachment 142902 |
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Forum: Lens Clubs
10-08-2012, 03:43 PM
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Here's a sharp photo of a little fella. I like the details and very natural colors.
I don't know if the exif is visible but it was taken at indicated 400mm, f16, 1/1000sec, ISO 160. The real is 70mm, f8, 1/1000sec, ISO 160.
Attachment 142889
Here's a 1:1 crop which looks really nice.
Attachment 142895
And here's the same fella at 1:1 crop, at indicated 400mm, f5,6, 1/2000sec, ISO 160. The real is 70mm, f2,8, 1/2000sec, ISO 160. Not good, huh?
Attachment 142896 |
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Forum: Lens Clubs
10-08-2012, 03:22 PM
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Hello again everyone.
Here's what I've found so far about my erratic AT-X Pro 28-70 2.6-2.8.
1. When at 28mm, it can lock focus on objects that are within about 10 meters away. It can't lock focus on more distance objects. The camera will make a noise trying to move the motor for a msec, but it will give up and the focus hexagon will blink. Move the barrel o notch, say to 28.1 mm, and it will focus at any distance with no problem.
2. When at 70mm, it can't lock focus at very distant objects where it should focus nearly to infinity. As above, the camera will make a noise trying to move the motor for a msec, but it will give up and the focus hexagon will blink. This happens when in Av mode the f number indicated on the display is set from the most open up to f10. Move it to f11 and upwards and it will lock focus at very instant objects... Bugger...
3. Like I said in my previous post, when set between about 38 mm and 70mm, the lens thinks it's a 400mm 5.6 prime, or so it says to the camera. So at an indicated f11, if I want to lock focus at very distant object, it actually is at f5.6.
4. Because it thinks it's a 400 tele lens above 38 mm, when in Av mode at 70mm and when I want to stop it down to get more sharpness or DOF, the shutter speed will not get slower than 1/400 sec, but the camera will boost the ISO instead even in a sunny midday...
5. It must really be stopped down to get any reasonable sharpness. I'll post some pics to see what I mean.
I don't know if my lens had been knocked down or if it missed quality control. The question is: is it fixable? I'd really like to keep this lens as it feels like a serious bit of equipment.
I even ordered a rubber lens hood for it, which arrived today. I don't know yet if it's effective but BOY it looks ugly! |
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Forum: Lens Clubs
09-21-2012, 12:02 AM
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Hello everyone. I'm a regular reader of the forum even though this is my first post.
Peter Zack and everyone else, I'm also having problems with my Tokina AT-X Pro 28-70mm f2.6-2.8 which I won recently at a very good price on ebay. From what I've read and seen, it's the II version because it has a bayonet mount for a lens hood. The seller didn't know much about the condition of the lens so I just bid based on luck.
The switch from AF to MF and back is done as Peter Zack describes using the clutch colar at certain positions. My lens shows focus problems similar to the those that Peter Zack describes. I've shot some test photos and came to similar conclusions, although I want to shoot more at the weekend to verify the problem and describe it thoroughly. So I'll update on the focus issue sometime next week. (By the way the photos I managed to take in focus look great!)
Apart from that, the lens seems to have a split personality:
1) Although it's maximum aperture is claimed f2.6, the lowest f number I've seen on the K-5's LCD is 2.8...
2) This f2.8 can stay for a focal range from 28 mm to about 37 mm. From about 37 mm to the tele end of 70 mm, the lowest f number indicated on the LCD is f5.6... So if I have the aperture wide open at 28 mm, the LCD indication switches from 2.8 to 5.6 the moment I pass the 37 mm while I'm zooming in...
3) And the funny part is that from the moment I pass the 37 mm and upwards, the lens thinks it's a prime tele lens. As I reviewed the photos both in camera and in Lightroom, it registers a focal length of 400 mm...
4) It also owns a fake ID, as it presents itself to Lightroom as a Pentax F 28-80 mm F3.5-4.5... Go figure...
Like I said, I'll report more thoroughly about the focusing issue next week.
In the mean time, has anyone else had a similar experience with a bad behaving aged Tokina lens? Is there any chance of making it a good boy again?
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Forum: Post Your Photos!
04-29-2012, 10:23 PM
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This is a great photo. The car looks in pristine condition and from this angle of view it also reminds me of the Alfa GTA... The car division of Saab was separated from the parent company when GM bought it. So any recent Saab cars were not made by the company that makes the Gripen... And then, GM made its best effort to destroy the car company. The rest is history...
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
04-29-2012, 10:01 PM
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It certainly has an interesting zoom range but I asked and it is not an auto focus lens. To those who can live with this inconvenience it makes an interesting lens indeed. I'm surprised though that no one has reviewed it yet. There always seems to be some on sale on ebay for a good price.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
04-05-2012, 12:12 PM
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Hello everyone.
I've come across a used Tokina AT-X 35-200mm F3.5-4.5 Macro 1:4 lens which is for sale for about 130 $.
I checked at the database and this lens hasn't been reviewed yet.
Anyone had any experience with this lens? Is it manual or auto-focus? Is it a K mount lens?
There's not much info in the add..
If anyone can provide some insight, it will be much appreciated.
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Forum: Welcomes and Introductions
11-11-2011, 12:32 AM
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Hello from turbulent Greece, everybody.
Not only am I new to Pentax, but I'm new to DSLR in general... This means I don't have much to say about photography and gear due to lack of experience, so I guess I won't be a prolific contributor to this site any time soon. I'm sure I will learn a lot of things in this forum.
Until recently my only camera was a humble Panasonic TZ5. I shot a great amount of images with it and I'm quite proud of some of them, but that's probably because I don't have the eye of an experienced :D... Maybe I'll post some of them.
A few months ago I updated to a Panasonic FZ45, which with a DSLR-like layout proved to be a very good school for me. I knew the basics quite well but this camera helped me to better understand all the manual controls (PSAM etc), see what effects all these can have, and master them to the benefit of my pictures.
I felt confident quite soon and that's when the K-5 came into play...
I chose it over a Canon 7D and a Nikon D7000 due to it's excellent reviews, its weather sealed body (I need that!) and just because I "felt" this is the one to have. I ordered it on October 21st and I received it on 27th October with the 18-55 WR kit lens. It felt special right out from the box (by the way, does everyone else has that childish feeling while unwrapping their new "toy" or is it just me??? :D). It felt solid, non-intimidating, camera-like as opposed to computer-like.
Within two weeks I had the chance to use it quite a lot. I'm still on a beginner's learning curve, and I shoot about everything and everywhere, but I'm already loving it. I shot about 500 photos so far, most of them experimenting and therefore about 300 of them had to be deleted... :o, but that's ok because I really like the remaining ones. As a beginner, I miss the preset "scenes" that other cameras have, but I know I'll be able to shoot nice sunsets with the K-5 at some point. I know I must invest in some better lens but that's not possible for the next few months...
Overall, it feels nice to be in Pentax-land.
(did I say too much???...)
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