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Forum: Pentax Full Frame
02-05-2015, 08:17 AM
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I think too, that it would be nice to have some kind of lens specific crop. It would probably be affected by aperture as well. In general, though, I would probably prefer to crop things in post though.
I know I've posted 55 photos on film before, but it really works well.
 Country Lane by Vincent1825, on Flickr
 Round Bale by Vincent1825, on Flickr
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Forum: Pentax K-3 & K-3 II
01-30-2014, 01:57 AM
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Forum: Pentax K-3 & K-3 II
12-21-2013, 01:26 PM
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A few from this morning, some are cropped huge..
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Forum: Pentax K-3 & K-3 II
12-19-2013, 03:13 PM
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Forum: Pentax K-3 & K-3 II
11-29-2013, 10:19 AM
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First things first:
- You will need a sturdy tripod and a remote release.
- Set the camera in 2sec timer mode (it will turn off SR) and will flip the mirror before the exposure
- Set the mode to Av (or to manual)
- Use ISO 100 (or 200 if you use highlight correction)
- Stop down the lens to F8; you can use anything between F5.6 and F11, but F8 for most lenses is the sweet spot.
- Auofocus is not particularly useful unless you center-point focus on a particular point in the scene, then switch to manual focus and not touch the camera afterwards (remember if you are using a zoom lens the focus will change if you adjust the zoom level and you will have to refocus).
- Use Live view if possible to really nail focus.
- Take several exposures and view the histogram to make sure you are not clipping highlights or shadows; use exposure compensation as needed (or switch to manual) until you nail the exposure.
- ALWAYS shoot RAW. There is no way that you can capture perfectly a complex landscape scene with a JPEG that allows only 8 bit of color data; RAW will give you 14 bits (about 6 stops of additional dynamic range) to use in post-processing.
- Use post-processing software to “develop” your images (Lightroom is one of the best) and learn how to use it to its full potential.
Regarding the equipment (which for most landscape work is less important):
Either camera can produce great results. You will not be able to see any differences in noise or dynamic range at ISO 100 or 200. Lens choices will be rather easy; most lenses perform quite well at F8. You will need a lens that is sharp throughout the frame and of a focal length that is appropriate for you setting. Primes will produce sharper images but zooms will give more flexibility. You can start with a zoom, then analyze your shooting habits and then get one or more primes centered to your most popular focal lengths.
The bottom line is that all things being equal, more megapixels will give you the flexibility to print larger and / or to crop the image and still have enough pixels left. Unless budget is tight, go with the K-3.
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