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Forum: Pentax News and Rumors
09-28-2010, 06:53 PM
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Nice exercise Johnbee, a controlled test would provide more useful information. But realistically, no one should be concerned about noise at 6400, as the latest batch of 2010 crop sensors are about equal with FF sensors from 2008. You should be comparing 2010 technology against each other, and doing your comparisons with the new FF noise king, the D3S. :D
Noise is a small part of the equation. DR, "bokeh control," shooting wide or long, those are much more important considerations to the entire FF vs. crop discussion. For example, if you're a wide freak, nothing will suit you better than Nikon 14-24/2.8 on full frame. But if you shoot birds in flight, you'll need a crop body and 400mm+ to get it done. So, comparatively speaking IMO, noise should not really be something to be concerned about.
But it is nice to know the K5 has good high ISO noise performance. I'd imagine the 7D and D7000 have similar performance too?
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Forum: Pentax News and Rumors
09-24-2010, 08:45 AM
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I didn't say that. I'm in the "no-tripod" camp as well - I simply truly don't understand what you would be taking a photo of at with your camera set to 1/4sec, F/1.4, and ISO3200?
I've used my D700 at ISO6400 at night, on the street, in the bar etc. 1/15s, F/1.4, that kind of thing. Yes, it takes photos. But honestly, any subject matter you chose to capture with those settings (wide open, slow shutter, high ISO) would look a lot better with proper lighting, lower ISO, and stopped down aperture. So sometimes you, as the photographer, have to evaluate and decide if you've really put enough effort into making a good photo. That's all I'm saying - do you disagree?
Again, I'm still trying to figure out what subject would absolutely require 1/4s, F/1.4, and ISO3200. Simple question...where's the simple answer.
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Forum: Pentax News and Rumors
09-23-2010, 11:18 PM
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Incorrect, it will show partial stops. I just looked in Adobe Bridge, I have shots on my 50/1.2 at 1.4, for example.
 Quote:
You write of some of the good Nikkor MF glass:
35/2 - $140
50/1.2 - $375
85/1.4 - $550
105/2.5 - $120
180/2.8 - $250
75-150/3.5 E - $40
I do not consider these prime prices particularly cheap. Goes pretty well in line with Pentax A-series glass.
If Nikkor prices are in line with A-series glass, that's cheap. Especially when you consider that there are many more Nikkors floating around, so any of the lenses I listed above can be easily found and purchased on Ebay. I always had a very challenging time finding Pentax-A glass when I was shooting Pentax.
When using non-A glass, I truly don't care for Pentax's "green button stop down" metering method. It's a half-hearted attempt to provide full functionality.
I agree with your points. I also would point out from experience that MF lenses are best used on "full frame" cameras like the D700 - I don't care to use them on crop cameras, the VF is too small.
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Forum: Pentax News and Rumors
09-21-2010, 04:18 PM
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I doubt Nikon is selling the D7000 at a loss in the states. They are just using a lot of trickle down technology (100% VF, aperture coupler from D300) coupled with tremendous purchasing power to keep their costs low.
Nikon has about 33% of the Japanese market, and the D90 is their best seller. So the D7000 is a very important model for them to drive future revenues.
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Forum: Pentax News and Rumors
09-21-2010, 03:57 PM
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Exposure was 1/800s, F/8, ISO6400, which equates to 1/50s, F/8, ISO400. There was plenty of light. In these situations that high ISO performance is great on most cameras.
Yawn. Let's take away 8-10 stops and see how it does, not just in noise but also DR.
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Forum: Pentax News and Rumors
09-19-2010, 05:49 PM
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Just curious, what exactly would you be shooting at 50mm, F/1.4, 1/4s, ISO 3200? If it moves, you won't get it. If it doesn't, you should use a tripod and enjoy better DR from a lower ISO setting.
I don't know why people get this wrong - all AI'd, AI and AIS lenses are the same in the compatability department. It's the pre-AI lenses you have to worry about. Nikon doesn't do the wonky "stop down metering" thing like Pentax. See my post above for a better description of how it works.
So in terms of compatability, there is a greater number of Nikkors on the used market that are "fully compatible" compared to the number of Pentax lenses that are "compatible in mount and green button metering." I'm not including Takumars, because those can be used on virtually anything with a M42 adapter. After all, you have to put a M42-K adapter in your Pentax body to use them.
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Forum: Pentax News and Rumors
09-17-2010, 06:12 PM
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I think he doesn't realize that the metering is not reflecting the aperture he's selected. So when he selects, say, F/8 on a 50/1.4, it's still metering as if it was at 1.4. Of course, consequently he'd get an image that was underexposed by 5 stops.
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Forum: Pentax News and Rumors
09-17-2010, 03:31 PM
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I know what RolloR was saying, I used to have a K10D and K20D myself. If you take any lens and find a way to mount it to a Nikon, it will also show focus confirmation. I can handhold any M42 in my D40 and it does this. Not highly recommended for serious use, obviously. :)
My point is that any lens - manual, auto, whatever - should mount, meter, and perform its function with as few steps or interferences as possible. Obviously mounting is important, but if you have to play guess the exposure every time, you should save the hassle and just buy the mount it was intended for, especially since Nikon, Canon, and Pentax bodies all cost about the same. Yes, I know Pentax has in body IS (a great feature) - but it doesn't freeze moving objects, and if you're shooting static objects you should be on solid support (tripod) where IS doesn't matter.
Anyways, I really hope Pentax adds the aperture coupling meter to future bodies. Everytime a manufacturer ups their game it forces others to do the same, so we all benefit in the end.
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Forum: Pentax News and Rumors
09-17-2010, 08:17 AM
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So you're saying that since you can modify a Nikkor to physically fit on a Pentax with a dremel, there's no advantage? Maybe Hoya should put that in their marketing materials.
Please read my post again, slowly, and give it some thought before responding.
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Forum: Pentax News and Rumors
09-17-2010, 08:07 AM
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Hey Hin,
I don't hear much discussion on Nikon forums about manual lenses and metering with flash so I'm not going to give you a 100% yes or no answer on that one. But here's my personal experience on the D700 - I use the built-in flash all the time and set FEC to -0.7, it gives excellent, consistent fill flash results. Certainly the flash results I have obtained with any Nikon body (D40, D700) are much more consistent than what I used to get with my K20D and 540.
Edmund
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Forum: Pentax News and Rumors
09-16-2010, 02:56 PM
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I'll agree that Canon may have pissed off a few people when they nixxed FD for EOS. :D However, if you're really into alt glass, buy a Canon. Due to short register distance, they can mount almost any lens out there - Nikkor, Pentax, Minolta etc. Do a quick search on ebay for EOS adapter and see what shows up.
Honestly, most Nikon users are AF users. I rarely see another Nikon user who uses MF glass. Actually, I've never seen it. So I wouldn't worry about the price shooting up due to this announcement.
I think Pentax MF glass is expensive because 1. there's no similar AF glass to buy, 2. AF glass has increased in price, 3. most Pentax shooters use Pentax for value.
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Forum: Pentax News and Rumors
09-16-2010, 02:51 PM
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Here's how the D7000, D300, D700, D2, D3 handle legacy Nikkor glass:
- In A (aperture) mode - Select your desired aperture on the lens ring. The camera will adjust shutter speed based on the meter.
- In M (manual) mode - Select your desired aperture on the lens ring. Select your shutter speed based on what the meter readout tells you in the viewfinder.
Program or shutter mode don't work as the camera cannot physically move the aperture ring for you. But besides the obvious, yes - any Nikkor AI or newer lens works with these bodies like an AF lens in all respects, except it doesn't AF. :D
One caveat - you have to program the focal length and minimum aperture of the lens into the camera body, and select it when you initially mount the lens. There are 10 slots to save lenses into. I don't find this to be a big deal, I programmed this into my custom menu so it's quick to get to. Some people dedicate a button to it so you don't even need to go to the menu to change lens profiles.
Indeed it is great for the MF prime user - especially when you consider the value of good Nikkor MF glass:
35/2 - $140
50/1.2 - $375
85/1.4 - $550
105/2.5 - $120
180/2.8 - $250
75-150/3.5 E - $40
I use the 50/1.2, 75-150, and 105/2.5 on my D700 all the time, it's fantastic. 50/1.2 below:
Mexican Daisy by eddymundy [in Tokyo 9/11-9/22], on Flickr
Well...that's the thing, right? It takes you one second to do that, and you're not 100% SURE of the results. Of course it works (somewhat well) for you, but if Pentax offered real compatability with their legacy glass then you'd never use the green button / EV comp method to take photos.
Actually, a real commitment would be to release fast glass and fast zooms with service and availability to match. Otherwise, I don't see how they can compete for a "pro's" attention when the other two brands offer it already. But they could start with uncrippling the mount, I suppose.
Actually, this is not a new function - the D200, D300, D700, and D3 line have always been able to use AI Nikkors and up. This is just the first time they put it on a consumer-level body.
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Forum: Pentax News and Rumors
09-16-2010, 07:24 AM
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It allows you to use any Nikkor AI lens or newer on the D7000 and have real metering. Not like Pentax, where you get to hit the green button to "stop down" and guess at an exposure.
Truth is, the Pentax compatability with MF glass is in mount only. Since the meter doesn't work on most MF glass without hitting the green button (A models exempted), you're basically guessing at exposure most of the time anyways in dynamic shooting situations. Yes, the green button method works okay in a static situation, on a tripod, in a studio, etc. But you be in M mode if you're doing that type of work anyways.
And if you want to use M42's, mount them to a Canon 5D. That's the cheapest and most versitile M42 FF digital solution you can get. It will meter just fine in A mode, too.
Yes, Canon and Nikon are missing in-body IS...but if you're shooting anything that moves you better be over 1/60th. You can handhold that without IS - give it a try sometime!
The D7000 is impressive. With 100% viewfinder and AI coupler, I can see myself using this as a lightweight travel body with the 16-85 VR, 70-300 VR, and a few fast MF primes (24/2 and 50/1.2) for night work.
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Forum: Canon, Nikon, Sony, and Other Camera Brands
05-15-2010, 09:08 AM
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JP,
I had a similar experience, revelation, whatever you want to call it when I was street shooting with a D300 and 85/1.4 in Tokyo. It would lock AF long after the sun set, whereas my K20D AF became, well, not so great.
I ended up with a D700, but for BIF where you need the reach I think a lightly used D300 and 70-200 VR I with TC would be a great combo. You could also get a Nikon 300/4 AF-S, or longer, brand new from Nikon. In any case, if you did well with the camera on loan it'll be even better once you setup the AF to your preferences.
I would only caution you to consider the cost of glass, as Nikon lenses are generally more expensive then Canon. But they also come with a five year warranty, and slightly better quality control (although both Canon and Nikon typically have better QC on their expensive long glass).
Good luck,
Edmund
PS - I sold all my pentax dSLR bodies after 6 months of non-use after the D700 purchase. Kept the Takumars though.
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Forum: Canon, Nikon, Sony, and Other Camera Brands
05-04-2010, 09:17 AM
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I can't speak about Canon because I have no experience with the 7D, but you won't be dissapointed with the D700. I had a K10D and K20D before my D700 - one thing I've noticed is I now spend very little time in CS4 doing PP. D700 files are really easy to work with (mainly because you don't have to do much to them). The blacks in particular render really well.
A Tamron 28-75/2.8 without the built in motor, or the Nikon 24-70/2.8 would mate up well to the D700 for your type of shooting. I'm not sure you'd need the Nikon 16-35/4, unless you really want the VR or want to get really close to your subject. (I have the 16-35/4 and 28-75/2.8 so just speaking from experience)
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Forum: Canon, Nikon, Sony, and Other Camera Brands
03-30-2010, 01:00 PM
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I'm not sure about the D300s sensor, but I leave NR off on my D700. JPEG's look fine straight out of the camera.
I believe the NR settings don't make a huge difference if you shoot RAW, but I could be wrong.
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Forum: General Talk
03-22-2010, 08:25 PM
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Yep, one of my co-workers I ride with has a Thudbuster on his hardtail. He mainly rides on the road but really raves about the ride quality with the Thudbuster. The only real downside is the appearance in my mind....
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Forum: General Talk
03-22-2010, 10:19 AM
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+1 for Thomson if zero setback works for you.
(I know they make setback posts, but they're a little hard on the eyes. Petty complaint but it's true)
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Forum: Canon, Nikon, Sony, and Other Camera Brands
03-22-2010, 10:14 AM
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Urk - I went through a similar thought process before I bought my D700. It may be "fun" in some sense, but it was a frustrating waste of time for me. As you said, there's no perfect camera out there and if you ponder all the "future possibilities" it can drive you crazy.
Anyways, it's simple. Just do what Samsungian did, buy all systems available. :) It really is the best solution.
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Forum: Canon, Nikon, Sony, and Other Camera Brands
03-12-2010, 10:39 AM
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DWB - Wow! That 180 is amazing. If my LBA comes back around I think that's now on the list...
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Forum: Travel, Events, and Groups
03-12-2010, 10:34 AM
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For a short, casual trip - D700, 50/1.8, Tamron 24-135/3.5-5.6 SP + Panasonic LX3 for video. Doesn't weigh much.
Last year I brought the LX3, K20D, 18-50/2.8 Sigma, 28-75/2.8 Tammy, and 24, 85, and 105 Taks with me to Japan. With a laptop and external HD. That was WAY too much.
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Forum: Canon, Nikon, Sony, and Other Camera Brands
03-11-2010, 05:02 PM
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You can use DX lenses at 12MP with no "crop" but most will have heavy vignetting. The 35/1.8 AF-S is one that you can get by on, provided you use it nearly wide open and at close focus distances. It is also very sharp, has a rear gasket, and is dirt cheap.
Anyways, here's how to do it: SHOOTING menu --> IMAGE AREA --> AUTO DX CROP = OFF. CHOOSE IMAGE AREA = FX.
Page 84.
http://www.nikonusa.com/pdf/manuals/noprint/D700_noprinten.pdf
Since we're on the subject, you can assign "CHOOSE IMAGE AREA" to one of the buttons + control wheels. I have a shooting profile for sports where I use that function, it's somewhat useful to change between crop and full frame on the fly. 5 MP is still usable for most things.
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Forum: Canon, Nikon, Sony, and Other Camera Brands
03-10-2010, 10:54 PM
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DWB - I don't know if you saw this thread on FM, but I found it useful:
D3/D700 Tricks and tips - FM Forums
I particularly like "easy exposure compensation", csm B4.
Re: Vignetting wide open - you never see it on crop cameras, because they don't use much of the lens :) There is a Vignette Control in the Shooting Menu. Also in the shooting menu, you can force the camera to always stay in FX mode (no auto-crop mode for DX lenses).
Last, if you shoot JPEG, try the DX2 Mode 1 colors (download picture controls from Nikon's website). Very nice low-saturation output.
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Forum: Canon, Nikon, Sony, and Other Camera Brands
03-10-2010, 10:49 PM
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I can't speak for DWB, but I can easily get sharp images at 1/30th with the D700 + 50/1.8. With my K20D + FA50 I could go to 1/15th or 1/8th with care. But that's bad technique for static subjects. If shutter speeds are going that low, I really should be using support.
Another problem with low shutter speeds is that my subjects (people) are usually moving. So even 1/30th is too slow to freeze any movement. I really enjoy that fact that ISO3200 on the D700 is better than ISO800 on the K20D. Less noise, more dynamic range, and more shutter speed or aperture, take your pick.
As far as dual systems - once I got my D700 I found less desire to use my K20D. I sold it and all Pentax AF lenses after two months of non-use. I kept the MF lenses, if I ever really desire to use them I'll probably get a Canon 5Dmk2 for that.
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