Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
01-31-2024, 08:05 AM
|
|
I've been using On1 Photo Raw for a number of years and believe it provide good value for the money. If you like Effects, why not download the free trial version on ON1 Photo Raw 2024. Raw processing, AI Brilliance, noise reduction, sharpening, sky replacement, layers, masking, the list goes on and on. Lots of tutorials on youtube by on1 and others. Here's a getting started video by Anthony Morganti -- You Tube |
src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/BQDRdgSxhVo?controls=1" allowfullscreen> |
-- he also has a code for getting $20 off the On1 regular price.
|
Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
11-29-2023, 07:37 AM
|
|
There are a couple of the Japanese-made white solenoids for sale on the Photographic Equipment for Sale forum. Price is $30 plus shipping.
|
Forum: Pentax K-3 & K-3 II
02-24-2023, 12:07 PM
|
|
|
Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
06-07-2022, 09:04 AM
|
|
Code: pentaxian_tmb
So it seems I am just a moron. Turns out the camera flash comp was set to -2 and EC to -1. Also didn't have the flash set up right...although after going through the manual 10x, I am still not sure I do. I can't seem to get the 'format' set to digital per the manual...it only lets me cycle through the manual formats and then defaults to 35mm. Its now set to autozoom, but the manual says autozoom is supposed to be at 16mm
for a digital camera, and mine screen reads 70mm or 48mm.... not sure how to fix that. Also have no clue when/if i should be using the compensation number using the s button vs on camera. Here is a shot of its current settings Having the flash exposure compensation as well as the camera exposure compensation set to negative values was the crux of your problem with not getting enough light on the scene.
As far as the flash zoom function is concerned, set it to Auto Zoom and forget it. The flash will then recognize which lens you have mounted to the camera (manual lenses being the exception) and set the zoom accordingly. If you had a zoom like the 18-55 or 16-50, you would see the flash zoom change as you zoom the lens.
You'll need to adjust the flash exposure compensation when using PTTL mode if your image is either too dark or too bright. Alternatively, you could open or close down the lens aperture.
Those camera setting I suggested earlier are merely a starting point to dialing in your exposure. You can lower the ISO to 200 or possibly even 100 depending on ambient light.
|
Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
06-06-2022, 07:05 PM
|
|
Just a suggestion -- mount your Pentax AF360 flash on your K-5, put the camera in manual mode, ISO = 400, shutter speed = 1/125 sec, and aperture = f6.3, and use it with your 35mm lens. Set the flash to PTTL mode. With normal room lighting, you should be able to get a reasonably good exposure every time and that includes the group shot you originally posted. Give it a try. See what you get. If it doesn't work. something is not working properly between the camera and flash.
|
Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
06-05-2022, 05:48 AM
|
|
A less expensive alternative to the Godox flashes and trigger would be a pair of Yongnuo YN585EX TTL flashes for Pentax. These are currently $90 each on Amazon. With the AF360FGZ in the camera's hot shoe, one can optically fire the Yongnuos in TTL or manual mode.
|
Forum: Pentax K-01
05-24-2022, 06:44 AM
|
|
Thanks for that info. It gives me an idea of what I'll ask for these.
|
Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
04-14-2022, 12:07 PM
|
|
Photogem, thanks much for the response. Your insight into this problem is greatly appreciated by many.
I've got the equipment to do the drilling, so that's not a problem. But, since that process failed after a while when you tried it, I'm not going to waste my time on it. If only I could locate those two missing white solenoids that I harvested earlier.
|
Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
04-04-2022, 01:32 PM
|
|
That's what I usually say, but wasn't sure that everyone would understand the meaning.
|
Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
11-29-2021, 09:58 AM
|
|
Here's a link to an article on the Red River photo paper website about the cost of printing with the Pro-1000. They also have a number of similar articles on the cost of printing with other printers. See: Cost of Printing Canon PRO-1000 |
Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
11-11-2021, 06:37 AM
|
|
I did only one print on Canson Watercolor Aquarelle/Acuarela cold press 12x18" 140lb paper using a Canon Pro-100 a few years back. Don't remember the details about printer settings, although it likely was one of the matte paper settings and I printed on the textured side of the paper. I recall spraying the print with a sealer that I got at the art supply store along with the paper, but don't have the can any longer, so can't say what exactly was used.
I know this doesn't help much, but I did find that it was possible to print on the watercolor paper with the Pro-100 and the print turned out fine. I just didn't care that much for the matte look and never followed through with any further attempts with this paper.
Edit: The print has held up since that time, but it's been kept in a stack of other prints, so it hasn't been exposed to any amount of light.
|
Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
10-29-2021, 10:28 AM
|
|
I'm a little late to this thread, but I was able to trigger the AF360FGZ in "M" mode by reversing the YN RF603N II on the flash hot shoe. In "A" mode, the flash would fire with the trigger in the normal position as others had already noted. I also had to reverse the trigger when mounting it on the AN540FGZ II in order to get it to flash in "M" mode.
Evidently, I had figured this out quite a while ago but only noticed today a note I had placed in the bag with the triggers that it was necessary to reverse them when mounting on a Pentax flash. I haven't used this YN stuff in a while since getting some Godox flashes and triggers.
|
Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
10-08-2021, 10:01 AM
|
|
If you go the RF603II route, you will need two of them -- one mounted to the camera's hot shoe as the trigger, the second mounted to the flash as the receiver. Also, this set-up does not allow for PTTL operation, only manual triggering of the flash and you will need to adjust flash power at the flash itself.
As someone else suggested, a PTTL compatible cable is the easiest solution -- here's one that is well within your budget -- Meike DSLR Camera TTL Flash Remote Cord Sync Cable PT-01 3M | MeiKe Store -- Found this one using the search criteria "pentax pttl cable."
|
Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
07-08-2021, 06:08 AM
|
|
I'm sure once incorporated into On1 Raw 2022 the workflow will be smoother, but there isn't much fiddling needed as it stands now -- at least that's how I see it. In the Browse module of On1 Raw 2021, before any editing, you can send your images to NoNoise, process them there, and send them back to On1 Raw 2021 as DNG files to begin processing. The DNG files returned from NoNoise are easily identified as "_nonoise" is added to the file name. And, I'm really pleased with how well NoNoise performs.
|
Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
05-26-2021, 06:24 AM
|
|
After loading the correct firmware into the Flashpoint Zoom Li-on Mini TTL (O), the flash is working again, But, it still fires at full power when I have the flash off camera in TTL mode and triggered by the Flashpoint R2 Mark II TTL Transmitter for Pentax. It works as it should in manual mode; I'm able to adjust the power settings on the flash from the transmitter. When I switch the transmitter to TTL mode, the flash changes to TTL mode, but fires at full power.
I guess I'll need to check with Adorama about this issue.
|
Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
05-05-2021, 08:39 AM
|
|
The overall tone of the subject being photographed dictates exposure when using P-TTL. White objects will be underexposed, black objects will be overexposed. It's the nature of P-TTL -- it's simply reacting to reflected light. Since the paneled wall is a light tone, it was underexposed and would require exposure compensation to achieve proper exposure.
|
Forum: General Photography
04-23-2021, 06:11 AM
|
|
Use two electrical cords from lamps, actually any cords that have two wires and are flat. Wrap them around the rim of the filters and squeeze them together where they meet, and then twist the filters apart. The cords work just like those filter wrenches and are great for removing stuck filters on lenses as well.
|
Forum: Pentax Price Watch
01-24-2021, 07:07 AM
|
|
|
Forum: Pentax Price Watch
05-29-2020, 06:04 AM
|
|
|
Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
02-20-2020, 09:34 AM
|
|
If you are using DNG raw files, you're likely getting two copies stored because Lightroom adds/stores whatever modifications you've made to the image back into the DNG file. You still have the original DNG and a second DNG with the modifications (exposure, highlights, shadows, vibrance, etc) that you've made in post processing. At least this is what happens to me when using a portable hard drive that automatically adds new files to the hard drive. I guess this is how the cloud works as well. If you're using sidecar files, you should have just the original raw file, together with a sidecar file containing the modifications made in post processing.
|
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
12-13-2019, 10:04 AM
|
|
An easier way would be to use the Digital Camera Utility software that came with the camera. Simply take an appropriate RAW image and make Vivid, Natural, Bright, etc. JPEG copies. Add various levels of exposure, contrast, hue, saturation, sharpening, and then pick the image with tone and settings you like best. Then set your camera accordingly. The only problem is that different images likely will need different settings.
|
Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
12-06-2019, 09:05 AM
|
|
If you want to check if there are both a pre-flash and a second flash for the exposure, set the camera in two-second exposure delay. When you press the shutter release, you should see the pre-flash, then a two-second delay, and then the flash for exposure along with the shutter movement. This doesn't work with the 10-second delay, where after you press the shutter, you get a ten-second delay and then the pre-flash and exposure flash that appear as a single flash.
|
Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
10-22-2019, 01:05 PM
|
|
Thanks, not a number, I checked the two solenoids and got 36 ohms on both, so I expect they will both work. Although I must admit, it's a bit difficult to keep the meter's probes on those solenoid contacts in order to get a reading as those solenoids are quite tiny. I was quite surprised at how small those things really are, never having opened up a digital camera before. I plan to use the one from the flash circuit in my K-50, in case there is some sort of issue. If all goes well, I'll move on to the red one.
|
Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
05-09-2019, 05:59 AM
|
|
You might want to take a look at the YN-585EX flash. It is a Pentax-compatible P-TTL flash, but doesn't do High Speed Sync if this is important to you. While the flash can't act as a Master/Controller to your AF-540FGZ II, you can use the AF540FGZ II as the on-camera Master/Controller for YN-585EX flashes in P-TTL mode. This is all done optically, so the Slave flashes must be able to see the flash coming from the Master/Controller. At $79 (here in the US), the YN-585EX is hard to beat (unless you plan on eventually switching to radio triggers).
|