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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
05-21-2023, 05:23 AM
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It looks damaged to me. Left hand side. Any more photos, preferably square on to the lens base so we can see the camera side of the mount clearly.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
05-21-2023, 05:27 AM
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That looks like impact damage on the left of the picture.
I'd probably "bite the bullet", fit a cutting disc to the Dremel and split the adaptor … hopefully the underlying thread on the lens itself isn't too badly damaged.
Good luck :)
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
05-21-2023, 05:33 AM
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Is there a screw holding a spring clip? Try removing the screw. These are often too long on third party adapters and keep the adapter from turning.
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Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
08-02-2017, 07:08 PM
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OK, it is good that you are seeing the receiver showing a green confirmation blink.
That's fine.
That may not be enough.
It seems the YN 560II has modes in which it does not respond to hot-shoe triggering. It won't work with a V5 in these modes.
So what you have to do is mount the YN 560II on the camera and then configure it so that it fires whenever you take a shot with a camera. Once you have established that, don't change anything on the YN 560II and just mount it on the V5 receiver.
Repeat your test from earlier by full pressing the test button on the V5 transmitter. If the V5 receiver LED then does a green confirmation blink and the flash is still not firing, I have no idea what could be wrong. This should not happen. The only suggestion I'd have in this case is to swap the V5 units, i.e., mount the YN 560II on the other V5 unit and use the current receiver unit as the transmitter. Perhaps one of your V5 units has a defective hot-shoe or does not make contact with the YN 560, but that problem should not occur with both units.
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Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
07-22-2017, 11:08 AM
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The success you have had with the K-5 built in flash is an asset, but the V5 cannot be used at the same time as the built in flash since it cannot be mounted while the built in flash is up. The only way around that is to have a V5 mounted on the K-5 and a flash mounted on top of that V5. You said you are not getting a firing from your flash when you try that though, so without that flash firing, any other off camera flashes you wished to fire using the optical slave mode would not fire due to no light burst to trigger them.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
11-06-2012, 05:20 AM
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Older cameras allowed the use of the aperture ring, but current Pentax DSLRs don't. Also, the K and M series film bodies don't support the A position at all, so they need the ring.
Technically you can use the aperture ring if you don't mind using the green button for metering in M mode, but if you have an A position on your lens you'll get the best results by using it.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
08-04-2012, 07:22 PM
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I could actually see that method working well for a book since applied photography is WAY easier to learn than a wad of theoretical photography and its better to learn when to use something than to just learn how to do many things.
Like I said, I just went shooting at first and took the manual in chunks as I needed it, a straight read through on that pig would be useless for retention. I'm not sure I have actually read all of it yet. I tend to ignore the in camera white balance since I shoot JPEG+RAW (dng format) to explain more on that the camera raw file is literally a record of what it sees in photons, not even an image yet, the JPEG is a somewhat compressed file that all the color and other attributes you select (or the camera selects) are applied to, so basically all the white balance and whatnot presets that are applied to the JPEG as it is created in camera are like film types, I leave mine on auto white balance.
Or put even dumber:
RAW=undeveloped film with only ISO and exposure already locked in place (could be any film type of that ISO though since that's not applied yet)
JPEG=developed film of specific type
So having a raw file is like being able to magically retake the exact same photo over and over again with different film types (not film speeds and obviously not exposure)
You would be amazed how much image these things can pull out of shadows that look near black, its like compressed shadows rather than compressed highlights. There are fancy tools in photoshop that intelligently boost the dark spots without messing up the highlights, or just the opposite too, I believe its shadow and highlight recovery (but I'm poor so I don't use photoshop, just paint.net which doesn't have that)
O and coming from film you will absolutely freaking love changing the ISO on the fly, SO handy. You will however be willing to murder someone if you take your film lenses and put them on the digital as with the crop sensor all the angles are screwed up and nothing is as wide as you are expecting it to be. Your fast 50 walk around prime is now known as an FA 35 F2.0, and you will eventually want at least one lens that dips into the teens for focal length.
If you do use any old lenses check the appropriate posts on how to make them work right and the obstacles (like pre FA zooms and shake reduction).
God I ramble incoherently when I get going.
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Forum: Weekly Photo Challenges
08-01-2012, 02:50 PM
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Thanks for hosting again, sergiu.
Great job! These macro/action shots are amazing. I really enjoy macro shots if it's not the standard (often boring) flower or bug stuff.
Yesterday I took advantage of the almost cloudless sky and tried again to shoot star trails.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
07-07-2012, 05:34 PM
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Using the Auto EV option and the maximum 9 multiple exposures at ISO80 will reduce the noise to a level as if you had used ISO9. To me, this is an under-appreciated ability of the K-5.
Jack
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
07-06-2012, 10:03 AM
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Two primes of the same focal length can and often are different as well, so don't think it is just a zoom thing...
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
07-06-2012, 10:04 AM
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if you really need to get closer than that a small tube works wonders :D
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
07-06-2012, 10:12 AM
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What you see is probably a result of lens design details; When we say "distance from the lens" what do we mean? from the center of mass? from the glass of the front element, rear element, what?
A camera lens has two positions that are important, the front principal plane - where the lens appears to be when looked at from the front and the rear principal plane which is where the lens appears to be when looked at from the back. These positions are chosen so the thin lens equations work.
Here's an example of a real zoom lens and how its principal plane locations change with focal length.
It would not be surprising if the front principal plane locations for your 28mm prime and 28mm zoom to be very different and help explain the focusing distance differences you observe.
Dave
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
07-06-2012, 10:29 AM
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I understand that desire completely. I believe this has been answered very well already, as you have acknowledged, but I wanted to add one important distinction to clear up your initial assumption:
You don't have two 28mm lenses. You have a 28mm and a 28-80 zoom. They are completely different machines. It's like comparing a 2-door purpose-build sports car with a mass-market sedan. Both have 4 wheels and might even have similar range displayed on the speedometer, but you can't expect them to both behave the same way.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
07-05-2012, 10:23 AM
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Multi exposure is very different from HDR.
with HDR you combine different exposures multi exposure combine the same exposures.
You can also use it instead of a ND filter for example.
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