Forum: Pentax K-01
02-12-2012, 03:48 PM
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That would take the "bottle bottom" lens quality epithet to a whole new level :D.
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Forum: Pentax K-01
02-10-2012, 11:58 AM
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Well, for one it's quite certain that MF users don't care about size, weight and price (because of complexity and size of glass).
That's where non-retrofocal lenses have quite and edge - much simpler design means lighter, smaller. Simple light path reduces need for optical corrections, number and type of special glass elements, coating performance etc. The main trade-off is vignetting. Maybe it is more important on a larger sensor.
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Forum: Pentax News and Rumors
02-09-2012, 10:40 AM
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MAYBE.. the lens is collapsible?
E.g. Sticks inside the body only when "OFF". But i don't see any kind of mechanism (switch, mark on distance scale, etc) to support it...
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Forum: Pentax K-01
02-09-2012, 03:59 AM
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A birck has been shat! It seems that they will actually stick it down the box, good... good...
Front element looks bigger than this:
What you think about curvature? Looks like retrofocus to me and the outter surface of front element has less curvature than inner one. At this distance and size, i'd say 20mm or less. Front and rear element sizes visually remind me KIT lens, so i wouldnt be too optimistic about the speed. The finish certainly looks like LTD.
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Forum: Pentax K-01
02-09-2012, 12:20 AM
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I doubt this can be done. There is just too little space inside the camera.
Maybe only with very simple and slow lenses using small elements and minimal mechanics (no zoom / collapsing mechanism helixes). If i look at the back of my lenses, many of them, not even fast ones, use up quite a lot of the area mount offers. They could be shaved down a little, but i don't think as much as would be required to fit them in the sensor sized box.
But hey. If they can stick a reasonably bright (f/2) 16, or 24 mm "pancake" down that hole, i might change my thoughts about the K-01.
And at f/2, without counting in any element housing tubes, guard spacing or any other technical details, knowing the K-01's APS-C (23.7 x 15.7 mm) sensor size, you could fit a 15.7*2=31.4 [mm] or wider lens in there.
BTW, the diameter of Panasonic's 20/1.7 lens optical elements is roughly 21mm and that is for a non-retrofocus lens.
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Forum: Pentax K-01
02-05-2012, 02:18 PM
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I remember when k100ds and k110d were on sale, what was the price of k110d? This, if not less, is where i would place the k-01 price wise to make it justified.
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Forum: Pentax K-01
02-05-2012, 02:12 PM
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Good point. Certainly, i'm just putting up my perspective, since i'm looking for a more pocketable companion to my k200d, this largely influences my opinion.
Still, i don't understand this camera, given the features you mention, why not just make another DSLR with required electronics upgrades. E.g. the same K-5 body, similarly to what they did with K-x to K-r.
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Forum: Pentax K-01
02-05-2012, 01:54 PM
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Actually this is exactly what they have done - removed the mirror to bear the title others do, except without gaining most pronounced advantages of mirror-less cameras.
It has combined most of the SLR and compact camera downsides:
*Its big,
*Heavy,
*Expensive,
*Needs big, heavy and expensive wide-normal FL's (16, 18, 24, 28mm) lenses,
*Has big, heavy long zooms (compared to 4/3, also - no indication that collapsible or otherwise compact designs might come),
*No viewfinder (not even accessory ones - e.g. optical for the new 40mm XS),
*No wired remote release,
*Reduced battery life,
*Intrusive, 'professional' appearance (bad for events where SLRs are forbidden or required to pay, candids, discrete street shooting),
*Slow flash sync,
*Noisy AF and aperture system (related to video),
*Flimsy rubber port covers,
*Changed button/function layout,
*No support as a compact system in general and the list goes on...
If they just dumbed down a DSLR, they could at least go all the way and make it really simple, cheap and light - plastic mount, no flash socket, no additional ports, no IR receiver, no dials - just buttons, digital SR, all plastic body, no screw drive (few DC motor kit lenses), older sensor (e.g. 12mpix) etc. Then it might work as a cheap backup, video camera for those with older DSLR's or something...
If one needs a versatile camera (s)he will get a DSLR. If i need compact, light or cheaper camera, ill get a true compact (m4/3, or some 2/3" or 1/1.8" sensor advanced P&S). Where does the K-01 fits in? If i want to use my existing lenses, this doesn't get me much smaller than current DSLR's. If i need to get new lenses as well (e.g. small primes), why not go for a truly compact system?
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Forum: Pentax K-01
02-04-2012, 12:34 PM
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I think they just went for the "mirror-less" title with as minimum changes as possible.
I consider it more like a compacted or cut down K slr, than a true compact interchangeable lens system.
Crowded interior of the mount indicates that neither there will be any recessed, collapsing or otherwise smaller lenses possible.
This way they can probe the demand for non-slr form factor quality camera.
Still, it's not an option for those wanting smaller cameras. Most of the bulk comes from the lenses. Less mount distance allows reduction of total size by this distance and by simpler optical designs. And K adaptor wouldn't be any different from K macro ring - it could even function as such on K slr.
P.S. What i completely don't understand, is if making camera so similar to SLR's, why change the fundamental button assignments (like timer, iso, etc).
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Forum: Post Your Photos!
01-22-2012, 07:51 AM
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A very fine photograph. Excellent detail and energizing scene! You're lucky to have a chance to visit such a beautiful nature.
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
01-02-2012, 04:57 AM
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Odd. Last evening and this morning i tried to reproduce the behaviour and nothing. Maybe it has to do with the fact that i observed the behaviour at temperatures around t=0..-3 C. And since none of you have seen such behaviour in your cameras, it not possible to compare with current models.
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
01-01-2012, 02:46 PM
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@john5100,
Using eneloops, they are always "fresh" unless depleted. Will give the reset a try, still it has behaved this way since i have it, that's why i'm more interested in current cameras/improvements, than fiddling with k200d. Also, I'd like to get video, since all i have is 240p p&s. In addition i keep hoping that a penta-prism body might let me better see where i'm focusing and maybe use manual focus. If not i might consider some MILC with good LV 1:1 zoom MF. Maybe the K200D simply doesn't go well together with me.
@sterretje.
Thanks for the info. Well, you mention one or two taps. That's the problem right there, unless you meant too weak tap. If i tap the button and hear AF, camera has read my input and i continue to the next action, but that's not possible=confusion, tap again, confusion, tap again... Btw, previously i had a K100D (-S) and even if i didn't had a chance to perform side-by-side test it feels as if the K200D's AF performs a somewhat worse in low light, but is more precise and faster in daylight.
Btw standby mode is similar. Its faster to turn the cam on-off all the time, than keep tapping. Something in the half press button code?
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
01-01-2012, 11:43 AM
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Interesting. Yes the camera is really a gem in the image quality and ergonomics areas, but operation is questionable. I always envy you guys, that can use MF. I cant see where the focus is even with 50/1.7 mounted, so i have to rely on AF 100% as well as "chimp" after each shot, to confirm sharpness.
Too bad.. i was hoping this was fixed. Actually it is more the way it happens than the time that is bothering me. It seems that for a very long period of time the camera isn't actually focussing, but having some pauses.
Yes, it will not lock, or fiddle the focus around for very long time even when its right where it should be and its just me or subject slightly moving. Its like the camera has no idea of what is happening with the distance (doesn't it keeps track of some sort of average measure?).
This would be important at F2.8 or faster. Still, this is more up to operator to preserve the distance, but with KIT's F4.5 +/-2..5cm would make no difference.
I've tried using AF.C, but that on the other hand allows snapping a pic. when the focus is completely off.
Unfortunately there are very few Pentaxians around so i don't get a chance to try out some of the latest cameras. It seems that most of the shops have completely dropped Pentax as well.
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
01-01-2012, 10:09 AM
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First of all, greetings in the 2012.
Very often my K200D has somewhat confusing, delayed and irrational operation. I'll go straight to the point and name few examples:
*While shooting, I zoom in on last picture while its still visible after shot. Then, looking at top LCD i try to change EV comp., obviously unsuccessfully, so i shortly half press shutter button, to go back to shooting mode. Oddly, i can hear the AF engaging, but the camera stays in review mode and EV comp is still impossible. Sometimes it goes straight to shooting mode, sometimes i can press it 3..4 times with AF engaging until the cam finally goes to shooting mode. It's weird, since the camera receives command (starts AF), but doesn't finish the action.
*Another observation - half depressing doesn't start AF action instantly. First some time passes and red AF point indicator lights up (manually selected AF Pnt.), then, after being lit for a fraction of second it goes out and some more time passes. Af starts working (this is actually fairly quick). It stops, again red dot blinks, only then green hexagon lights up. I'd like this to happen all at the same time. It's as if the camera double-confirms AF stop (red dot->green hex). An why not start focusing and show red dot at the same time?
*Minor movements can completely disable AF. E.G. Me waving +/-2..3cm back and forth and having AF point movement on the subject few CM in the same plane. Fairly frequent situation when photographing humans.
Usually i have such observations in winter, when there is lack of light. Maybe it has something to do with the first observation as well.
Do newer Pentax cameras have similar behaviour characteristics or is it all fixed together with other speed improvements they offer?
Currently it serves as an outstanding camera for night shots, landscapes, macros and nature, but as soon as i get to deal with people i just plain hate it. It causes so much confusion and frustration. If i want to do more photography of people i think the camera has served long enough to earn an upgrade.
I want more predictability, consistency and definite responsiveness. Not double checking each button press on all the LCDs and default to manual focus in every somewhat challenging situation. But will the newer cameras be of any improvement in those areas or is it just me?
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Forum: Photographic Technique
10-09-2011, 01:14 PM
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3 CCD Is a way. Pirsm doesn't absorb unused colors, it redirects them.
I've seen drawings of similar designs in smaller scale, where there is prism-like structure at each pixel.
Also have a look at zinc nano-wires. They could be made to directly respond to specific wavelengths.
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
10-08-2011, 05:52 AM
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Additional note on the VF cap. When doing longer 30..60 sec exposures in broad daylight with IR720 filter, the brightest part (horizontal band) can become visible. So it is beneficial to use VF cap even in shorter exposures if there is a change of stray light.
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Forum: Canon, Nikon, Sony, and Other Camera Brands
10-02-2011, 02:57 AM
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Currently im commuting with a road-ish mtb. Plan on switching to city bicycle (all hub mechanics, vertical sitting posture). Usually i have my gear in backpack or shoulder bag.
I think most of the weight and size comes from AA's and the complex mirror-box mechanics. When cycling, in most cases i have to leave my DSLR behind because of its size. When commuting or expecting more challenging weather you have to pack quite a lot of additional clothes (rain overshoes, raincoat, wind-stopers etc).
I would be hesitant to keep my camera on the frame, because it would take all the hits, which are otherwise absorbed by me.
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Forum: Visitors' Center
09-28-2011, 12:09 PM
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Yes.
Custom menu option 10 (Slow shutter speed NR) must be set to 2 (off).
About the dark frame. When you disable the SSSNR, you'll see that with long exposures you will get hot pixels. To remove them (by subtraction in post processing) you need a black reference frame. This can be done only once in one session and because the hot pixel pattern doesn't change that fast.
E.g. if you do 12 exposures, each 30 seconds long for a total 360 second star trail, after that you make one more frame. This 13. frame should have the same settings (exposure time, ISO), just with lens and viewfinder caps on and minimum aperture. This frame should be completely black but contain the same hot pixels as other 12 frames. Then you can remove those pixels from all of those frames using this dark frame.
This has been widely discussed on the Internet so should be easy to find various illustrations and detailed descriptions.
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Forum: Canon, Nikon, Sony, and Other Camera Brands
09-27-2011, 02:49 PM
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Btw, this might suit a separate thread, but still. From your experience, how are MILC's threated in public events? Are they allowed where there are special rules/prohibition for SLR cameras or Professional photography? Logically when you're not lugging something like 500/5.6 along with it, but more like 20/1.7 or the wide kit zoom.
Or they still look big/complex enough for the personnel to ask additional fee or get banned?
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Forum: Visitors' Center
09-27-2011, 02:41 PM
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Actually, K200D is one of the last cameras which allows the DFS (dark frame subtraction) to be turned COMPLETELY off (unlike k20d or k7). One of the reasons why i haven't upgraded yet.
But when doing a series of long exposures with DFS off i advise to do at least one dark frame on your own, to use later in post processing.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
09-26-2011, 12:58 PM
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Standard question: do you have filter on the lens?
That is one of main causes for upside down reflections from lights.
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Forum: Pentax K-r
09-26-2011, 10:14 AM
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Just a side note: It is recommended to do multiple shorter exposures instead of one long.
If something goes wrong during the exposure (e.g. a car drives in the scene with bright headlights overexposing everything), you just remove that frame instead of loosing all exposure.
Also you should think of some "manual shuttering" method. Lens cap can be used but it will move the camera. Something like a dark, unreflective cloth, you can put over the lens. This way you don't even need the remote or timer(put on cloth, release shutter, remove cloth). Also can be used to cover the lens when there is unwanted content in the scene (e.g. clouds moving across, people walking by).
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Forum: Post Your Photos!
09-18-2011, 09:55 AM
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Forum: Photographic Technique
09-18-2011, 01:54 AM
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I think the shot count alone shouldn't be used to answer this question. Total number of pictures has increased, partially due to new types of imaging devices.
What should be observed as well is market data.
E.g. if people go for more expensive phone with a tad better camera instead of phone+camera, and P&S sales decrease.
Most people i know use phone to take "additional" shots (which wouldn't be taken if they didn't have phone cam.), but still have P&S for "usual" or "better" pictures.
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Forum: Photo Critique
09-16-2011, 10:13 AM
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Nice viewpoint. Something new and the lighting is intriguing as well. Looks almost artificial.
I've never taken care to follow where my pictures end up. How do you notice such things, some special software or just randomly stumbled on your own pic?
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