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Forum: Pentax Price Watch 12-06-2016, 08:51 AM  
DxO OpticsPro 9 - free
Posted By pepperberry farm
Replies: 22
Views: 3,727
If You Shoot With an Older Camera...you can get a copy of DxO Optics Pro 9 for free. Courtesy of DxO and DigitalCamera UK, which is a magazine.

Check the list of supported cameras first; most are more than two years old.

The free license is not upgradable.

The current version of the software is DxO Optics Pro 11. It's currently on sale for $149 from $199.

DxO & DigitalCamera | DxO.com
Forum: Maintenance and Repair Articles 12-06-2016, 01:59 AM  
Sensor cleaning (all cameras) - very handy, tiny swabs
Posted By BigMackCam
Replies: 0
Views: 2,058
I was searching for some very, very small sensor swabs recently - small enough to clean the Q and Q7 sensor (or sensor guard, to be more accurate) but also to spot clean individual stubborn marks on larger sensors.

I couldn't locate any here in the UK, but did find some from what appears to be a fairly small supplier in Australia. They only show domestic delivery on their website shop, but via friendly e-mail exchange they said they were happy to ship to the UK and at reasonable cost.

The swabs are just 3.5mm wide and they are proper sensor-friendly swabs (not just cotton buds - please, don't use cotton buds!!), to be used with good quality sensor cleaning fluid. They also do a 7mm wide swab which might come in handy.

I've ordered a pack of 36 to try them out. Frankly, those should last me a loooooong time - but if I like them, I'll probably order a 100 pack as I can see these having a lot of applications in cleaning sensors, lenses, viewfinders, mirrors (on my older SLRs), electrical contacts etc.

For anyone interested, here's the link to the item:

Sensor & Lens Mini Swabs for lens, sensor and mirror.
Forum: Pentax Q 01-20-2013, 04:06 PM  
Q lens instruction manuals
Posted By flylow7f39
Replies: 24
Views: 4,162
02 Standard Zoom manual attached...
Forum: Pentax Q 09-23-2016, 07:54 AM  
Lens Distortion?
Posted By kwb
Replies: 19
Views: 2,432
Raw file always contains a full resolution raw data, of course, but it often has a reduced jpeg embedded. This is done so that programs doesn't have to e.g. "develop" the raw data on the fly every time you need to quickly preview the picture.

Anyway, for some cameras "reduced" resolution jpegs aren't reduced at all, they're full resolution jpegs tagged as "reduced", but your Q7 embeds reduced resolution jpegs in 1920x1280 size as PhotoME points out. If PhotoME writes 1920x1280 files, it's not converting the raw data to jpeg, it's grabbing the embedded reduced size jpeg.

But that doesn't mean that Q7's file is recorded in reduced size, the file still has full resolution raw data. I don't know if PhotoME cannot process raw data, but if that's the case, you need a program that can do that kind of stuff as Na Horuk suggested. If you have silkypix that originally came with Q7, you could try that.

There's a thread that talked about this:
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/136-pentax-q/289822-q7-dng-files-being-lo...-size-why.html
Forum: Pentax Q 09-23-2016, 09:20 AM  
Lens Distortion?
Posted By Na Horuk
Replies: 19
Views: 2,432
Yeah, 8bit jpeg is the standard for photo sharing. Tiff is if you want to do heavy editing. Png is not really useful with photos, it is more for graphics design
So, yeah, it seems that other software was pulling the preview jpeg instead of reading the actual raw data. Maybe you can google for the question, as other users may have experienced the same problem. Usually this problem happens with some freeware codecs designed just for fast previews.

Regarding user friendliness, yea, that's why I chose Lightroom. Easiest, fastest to use, but still good for all kinds of stuff. My main issue with RawTherapee is that it has so many functions and icons and buttons that I waste time looking for things
Forum: Pentax Mirrorless Cameras 09-06-2016, 07:22 PM  
The next Q model sensor
Posted By lytrytyr
Replies: 43
Views: 14,579
The Q7 frame has a 9.5mm diagonal.

"Sizes are often expressed as a fraction of an inch, with a one in the numerator, and a decimal number in the denominator. For example, 1/2.5 converts to 2/5 as a simple fraction, or 0.4 as a decimal number. This "inch" system brings a result approximately 1.5 times the length of the diagonal of the sensor. This "optical format" measure goes back to the way image sizes of video cameras used until the late 1980s were expressed, referring to the outside diameter of the glass envelope of the video camera tube."

From: Image sensor format - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 07-28-2016, 01:45 AM  
Two new lenses
Posted By quh86
Replies: 25
Views: 2,736
what nobody explained yet, is that the camera in the second two shots overexposed, thus the flare that you see as "blue haze" just set exposure compensation to -0.7 or similar and you will be fine.


about the filters, usually i keep them on to protect the front element, when walking around and/or being on the move to somewhere. however for critical shots i suggest to remove it.
Forum: Pentax Lens Articles 08-12-2010, 04:24 AM  
Sticky: How to use/meter Manual & M42 Lenses on all Pentax DSLRs (K-1, K-3, K-5, K-30, etc)
Posted By Adam
Replies: 358
Views: 416,646
Many Pentax DSLR owners want to use M42 screwmount (Takumar) lenses, or M or K manual lenses, on their cameras because of the low cost and relatively high image quality of these lenses.


If you're wondering whether or not these lenses can be used with Pentax DSLRs (or the K-01), then the answer is yes! Pentax as well as third-party manual and screwmount lenses can easily be mounted on any Pentax DSLR (such as the K-1 series, KP, K-3 series, K-70, K-S2, K-S1, K-50, K-500, K-30, K-5 series, K-r, K-x, K-7, K10D, K100D, K200D, *ist D, etc.) Just follow this guide!



Modern Pentax DSLRs use the Pentax "K-mount", which employs a bayonet and therefore differs significantly from the M42 screw mount. The older manual M and K (SMC Pentax-M, SMC Pentax) lenses actually use the bayonet, so they will not need an adapter - you can skip straight to the lower portion of this article (starting at "Important!") for information on how to meter with those lenses. Screwmount lenses usually have "Takumar" in their names, and in order to mount screwmount lenses on your k-mount body, you'll need a Pentax k to m42 adapter. Pictured above is the genuine Pentax adapter, which is ideally the one you want to get. Similar third-party adapters are also available. Caution: Many third-party adapters, such as this one, have a protruding flange which will prevent you from focusing all the way to infinity. If you want to buy a third-party adapter (they're generally cheaper), make sure that they don't have this flange. Here's an example of a good third-party adapter.

Once you have your adapter, the next step is to install it on your camera (it can easily be put on and removed on-the-fly). Check out the m42 to k adapter manual.


After you've installed the adapter, you'll want to mount the lens. This is done by screwing it into the camera until the lens feels firmly attached. The focusing window and lens ring should line up with the camera just like any other lens. Now that your lens is mounted, let's talk about how to take photos with it.

Important! The hard part is to get the camera to actually fire when a manual lens is mounted. In order to accomplish this, enter your camera's custom function menu, select the "Using Aperture Ring" setting (usually at the end of the menu, #21 on the K-7, #27 on the K-5, #27 on the K-3, #26 on the K-1), and set it to 2 (allowed). Once you do this, the shutter will at least fire, as it wouldn't have with this setting disabled (you would simply have seen an F-- indication on the top LCD/info screen). The setting description should read: 'Shutter will release when aperture ring is not set to the "A" position' when "allowed" is selected. Also note that the mount on the lens must be conductive for electrical current so that it shorts the electrical contacts on the camera body. All Pentax manufactured lenses have a conductive mount, but some third party lenses do not in which case the area of the mount touching the contacts must be sanded down.

K-30, K-50, K-500, K-70, K-S1, K-S2 and K-01 users: make sure you also set your green button "action in M/TAv Mode" to Tv SHIFT. This is found under the button customization menu (page 3 of the main menu) on the K-01 or as a custom function on the K-30, K-50 and K-500. On the K-S2 and K-70, look under the e-dial programming sub-menu under button customization in the record menu.

Finally, ensure that auto ISO is disabled.

At startup, if your camera asks you for the focal length, enter the actual focal length as labeled on the lens. This will ensure optimal Shake Reduction performance. For zooms, you can use the lower end of the zoom range (this ensures that there will be no over-compensation), or the focal length that you shoot at most often.

Now, let's discuss metering. Since manual lenses don't feed aperture data to the camera, the only way for the camera to check how much light is being passed through the lens is to measure the light while the lens is stopped down. Follow this procedure to properly meter with a screwmount, M, or K lens:

___0. Ensure that the "Using Aperture Ring" custom function is set to "2 (allowed)" (K-30/50/500/01 users must also ensure that the green button is configured to Tv Shift in M/TAv Mode) as described above
  1. Set your camera to M mode using the mode dial (your camera won't fire in other modes*)

  2. Compose and focus your image.

  3. Using the aperture ring (the ring at the very back of your lens; it will have numbers such as 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8 written on it), select your desired aperture setting. Note that the smaller the aperture number is, the more light passes through the lens, and the blurrier the out of focus areas of your photograph will be (and vice-versa). Note your lens will not stop down until step 5.

  4. [Screwmount lenses only] Switch the diaphragm clutch on your lens to "Manual" (you can leave it on Auto when composing and focusing if you don't want a dark viewfinder).

  5. Measure the light by either pressing the "Green Button" (older bodies may use the Av button), or pushing your power button to DOF preview mode (only available on high-end bodies). Your camera will automatically set the shutter speed for you.

All that's left now is for you to press the shutter release button to take your photo. Congratulations- you've now learned how to use M42 and M & K manual lenses with Pentax DSLRs!

*Screwmount lenses may also be used in Av mode since they are always stopped down to the aperture you will be shooting at (unlike M&K lenses, which are stopped down only when the shutter is released or when you meter as described above).

Note: if your aperture ring has an "A" on it, instead of doing stop-down metering as per this guide, you'll want to set the ring to "A" and use the camera's scrollweel to adjust the aperture via Av mode.

Click here if you found this article helpful!

Video version:















You Tube



Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 12-27-2012, 11:04 AM  
Disappointing results
Posted By Vindemiatrix
Replies: 58
Views: 6,908
You need to learn to see better my friend... the bottom photo is the better one by far.
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 12-27-2012, 01:19 PM  
Disappointing results
Posted By wildman
Replies: 58
Views: 6,908
I handled it as if it was my picture - desaturated the orange and yellow it's basically a bw shot anyway.
It's the way I "see" a blizzard in the middle of the night - different strokes for different folks.
Forum: Pentax DSLR and Camera Articles 02-14-2009, 06:21 AM  
How to use Trap-focus or Catch-in focus
Posted By eurostar
Replies: 34
Views: 55,016
Any Pentax DSLR allows the user to easily build a photographic trap to shot elusive birds and other animals. No need for infrared sensors and electronic do-it-yourself skills. Just a camera, a manual lens and a cable release with lock, and everyone can create a robot-camera that shot when the subject come on the spot. And the shot will be always in perfect focus.

You need: an AF Pentax reflex camera (a DSRL is preferable), a KA mount manual lens, an electrical cable release with lock and a tripod or similar camera support (pic 1).
Camera must be set on AF-S (pic 2), continuous shooting (pic 3), exposure mode on AV (pic 4). Aperture priority allows the use of a large aperture, with shallow DOF and fast shutter time to freeze movements.
Aim the central focus point to the place where your subject is expected to come, manual focus until focus aid (green hexagon) lit up, recompose to have the central focus point to aim at the point where subject head should be.
Now put viewfinder cap on, to avoid errors in exposure (pic 5)
Plug in the cable release (pic 6), push the release button and block it (pic 7).
Nothing will happens. Go to the place your subject will come, wave you hand in the focus point, and you will hear the shutter working.
Go away and allow subjects to come. After some hours come back and control if pictures counter advanced. If so, you can replay pictures on the LCD to see what species came.

With Pentax K20D, you can use not only the central AF point, but every one, allowing for a better placement of subject in the frame of the picture. This improvemetn has brought Pentax to rename the function catch-in focus.







Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 11-25-2012, 08:20 PM  
Decisions, decisions...
Posted By Ash
Replies: 10
Views: 1,319
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 11-25-2012, 05:28 PM  
Decisions, decisions...
Posted By Just1MoreDave
Replies: 10
Views: 1,319
A) Your camera isn't weather-sealed so it doesn't need the WR version of the 50-200.
B) The price seems a bit high for the L version. Look at this listing, the DA version. That has the hood, the quick shift, distance scales and metal mount missing from the L.
C) and D) The other posters correctly suggest that the Pentax DA 55-300mm (also in L version) is better than either of these. That's $275-300 tops, less for the L version. The Pentax will be better at 300mm, which is the whole point of a zoom that goes to 300mm. It's a lens you could use for many years without outgrowing it.

Since you have 6Mp, cropping a 200mm image to resemble a 300mm shot is not the best solution. I've used older versions of the Sigma and Tamron and they're not so terrible. The 50-200 is a better idea if 300mm is just a cool idea, not something you really need. Either Sigma or Tamron should be an OK stopgap if you need 300mm right now. Remember you'll need to be pretty steady to handhold a 300mm lens, and you don't have SR on the K110D.
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 11-25-2012, 05:22 PM  
Decisions, decisions...
Posted By jatrax
Replies: 10
Views: 1,319
+1 You should be able to get a used DAL version for not much over $200 - 225 if you shop carefully. Second choice would be the F 70-210 which is often available for under $100.
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