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Forum: Photo Critique
07-27-2013, 01:25 AM
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What a beautiful time piece! I would personally stage it on an old wooden desk or perhaps a man's vest, lit by tungsten lighting with a yellow cast, to give the shot an older feel and ambience. I would also back up a bit to work in the background a bit more. Just an opinion, of course.
How does your uncle see this watch in his mind's eye?
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
06-01-2013, 03:36 AM
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I used to make filter wrenches for this until I discovered that a simple hose clamp works just as well. Get one at the auto parts store and slowly increase tension until is stops slipping. Then just twist the filter off.
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Forum: Photographic Technique
05-16-2013, 01:53 PM
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Can't help with the astrophotography part - sorry - but I live on Oahu and have visited Kauai many times. There are many opportunities for the intimate landscape type of shots and some grand scenic type shots (like the Waimea Canyon or the north shore of Kauai). Kauai is beautiful, with many wild flowers that are not seen on the more populated islands so, for me, I used my A35-105 lens the most. There are also many indigenous birds in the forests that are endangered and rapidly disappearing; a long telephoto will help there. I would definitely include a macro lens if you can, for the plant life that surrounds you. Don't forget your polarizing filter.
Take some good rain gear with you. Kauai is one of the wettest places on earth. I use a good quality poncho to protect me and my gear. If you plan to sit quietly for long periods, for birds and the like, then a small foam pad to sit on will be useful - you can buy that locally. Mosquito repellant is also not a bad idea.
My list would be a DA12-24, Vivitar S1 105 Macro, a DA18-135 or equivalent, the DA55-300 or equivalent and this would work for me. Astrophotography stuff I cannot comment on. Bring a really good tripod with you; you will need it.
Visit the Kauai Coffee center if you have time, and don't miss the Waimea Canyon. There is a lovely park further up the road from the canyon look out and the road goes on past that to a quiet and beautiful rain forest. Check it out.
If you plan to hike please do not go alone. File a "flight plan" with someone so they know where to look. Carry your cell phone, a good map, a small first aid kit and survival kit with you. I'm serious.
Enjoy your trip to our islands!
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
04-21-2013, 01:51 PM
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I would second the SMC K135/2.5. This is a truly outstanding lens for a relatively low price. It is very sharp and is one of those lenses that can make the subject pop out of the background, much like my FA77 does. If you can find one, get it!
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
03-31-2013, 03:42 PM
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Tokina still services this lens and probably/hopefully will have those pieces in stock. They look like stainless steel which work-hardened at the bend and cracked from stress. You can make them but it would probably cost more in time than just buying replacements.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
03-26-2013, 02:45 PM
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I own a K10D and agree with Not a Number - the onboard flash is not very powerful and the sensor to subject distance matters, as it does with any flash. Try getting closer to your subjects and it will help a great deal. Physics is a bear sometimes.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
03-18-2013, 10:18 PM
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Do you have the black Power Zoom model? If so, it is an extremely nice lens for the money and yes, you done good. That lens in good shape will go for more than you paid, used.
This was my most used lens on my PZ-1 and produced many sharp pictures with great colors. It focuses pretty close and is, to my mind, one of the best zoom lenses Pentax produced. It is a bit slow but on a modern digital camera that is no longer a major obstacle. I'm not a pixel-peeping kind of guy. I just shoot so for me this lens has a useful range, does everything i ask without problems, and produces sharp pics with nice colors. I'm happy with mine, can you tell?
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
03-17-2013, 06:38 PM
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The deer toy looks great! Not sure what happened with the bird shot - did you hit the shutter before the shake reduction icon lit up?
It looks like the lens works fine. Hang in there, TJ!
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
03-17-2013, 01:09 PM
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Boriscleto, thanks for confirming the focus adjust thing. Is adjusting for each lens done like the old K10D Debug menu was? If so, it should just take a few seconds to dial in the needed adjustment when changing lenses, right? Its a hassle but at least its possible without hacking the software.
Edit: TJ, there is a ton of info on focus adjusting Pentax cameras on this site and on the net. It is well worth the time to do it for your gear. Post any questions you have and the knowledgeable folks on this site can clear things up for you. Enjoy your new camera!
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
03-16-2013, 08:36 PM
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I suggest adjusting your diopter using whatever you use when shooting. If that means glasses then use them, with your magnifier intact. To adjust the diopter (hopefully your magnifier will allow access to the adjuster) look at a bright wall through the viewfinder. See the framing lines on the screen? Make those lines as sharp and clear as you can by moving the diopter adjuster one way or the other. You are not trying to focus on anything through the lens; you're trying to make the lines on the screen tack sharp. Do all of this with your eye in your normal shooting position and without jamming your glasses into the eyecup.
Its a good idea to check this adjustment from time to time. Your vision can change, especially with some medications or medical conditions (diabetes, for one), and it isn't unusual for it to change daily or even several times per day.
For the purposes of propping the camera on a fanny pack or belt, any lightweight monopod will work as long as it allows you to adjust the viewfinder to eye level. If you want a really solid one that you can use on the ground then there are many. I like the Manfrotto classic monopods like the model 679B to which I attach a tilting head. It is very solid and not outrageously expensive.
The other thing that occurred to me is that you might want to look into focus adjusting the camera for your F-70-210, which I think the K-r will allow. It will help give you the sharpest performance the lens is capable of.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
03-16-2013, 12:32 PM
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Hi TJ,
It seems clear it is you and your technique and not the lens, since your shots are sharp when on a stool or tripod. I will assume you are aware that you have to wait for the little "hand in quotes" icon to appear in the viewfinder before you shoot in autofocus, right?
If I were you I would shoot those stadium moments with autofocus and save your manual efforts for non-action shots when you have time to properly brace or support the camera/lens. As excanonfd suggested, I use a monopod when I am moving but slightly differently. I put the monopod foot in a belt-mounted pouch (my brother just braces the foot on his fanny pack) so the weight of the camera is fully supported by the monopod; all I have to do is operate the controls. This one thing can make a major difference in your keeper rate. With this simple rig I can shoot a heavy Tokina 80-200mm/f2.8 lens mounted on a K5IIS with grip at large apertures and still get sharp shots.
I also suggest that you shoot in either aperture or shutter priority, depending on your needs, and be sure ISO is set to auto. That way you can set a shutter speed or aperture you want and let the camera set the other parameters for you while you concentrate on staying still as you press the shutter release.
Be sure your viewfinder diopter is correctly set when your eye, with glasses comfortably in place, is at the viewfinder. You can't manually focus unless this is correct for you and even a click off one way or the other makes a huge difference. This is especially important for eyeglass wearers.
Learn to brace your arms against your body with one hand under the lens when shooting. When you hit the shutter - stay still! If you do this, and all your camera settings are correct, there is no reason you shouldn't be getting sharp shots with the F 70-210 lens handheld. It is a very sharp lens, albeit a little slow, and you should be getting a very high percentage of sharp shots.
I apologize if I am stating the obvious here. Keep at it and don't give up on that lens; it's a keeper.
Mushin
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
03-14-2013, 12:47 AM
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Do you have a specific need for a 300mm lens? In my experience, a 300mm is too long for most things and not long enough to reach out for wildlife. Unless you really need a 300, I think the 60-250 is far more versatile and it is an incredibly sharp lens. I'm not sure it will beat the 300mm prime but even if it doesn't it is still a better use of some serious bucks as far as I'm concerned.
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Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II
02-18-2013, 03:47 PM
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I had the same underexposure with my K10 and K5IIS when using the AF540 and a home made better bounce card. I wound up dialing in a bit of compensation on the camera and jacked the ISO up to 400 (sometimes 800 if its dark) and it works fine - beautiful exposures. How much compensation varies with the subject but over all this all takes a few seconds and I'm shooting. This works even in areas with highly reflective surfaces. Maybe not the best solution but it works for me.
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Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II
01-23-2013, 04:20 PM
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You're right - the seller, dhsummer, is no longer selling these on ebay. I just bought one a few months ago so they were available. Maybe you can try emailing him via ebay - he is quite responsive, or was in my case.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
01-07-2013, 10:12 PM
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Agreed - something is jamming the lens. I haven't had this lens apart before but you may be able to find something on the net. Typically, the A-lenses have some screws under the rear edge rubber collar grip.
This group is frequented by some knowledgeable guys: Favorite Classics / Camera & Repair Articles
Another one: Manual Focus Forum
Keep us posted.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
01-07-2013, 09:19 PM
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You are likely in Macro mode. Turn the focusing collar to move the green Macro label away from the 70 label (turn the focusing collar clockwise when looking at it from the back of the lens.) That should allow you to zoom by pushing/pulling the focusing collar.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
01-04-2013, 02:29 AM
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For chasing kids indoors, I would also go for a 35mm lens. I haven't used a DA35 but own an FA35/f2.0 that focuses quite fast (and is tack-sharp) with a K10D and K5IIS. A fast 50 is okay but inside the house it might be a bit long at times.
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Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
12-28-2012, 04:13 PM
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Hey Stormtech,
I think any Home Depot or Lowe's should have a daylight CFL bulb of some type. I would buy a few and try them out. Just set a custom white balance with those lights and give it a try before ordering some expensive bulbs.
The more low-cost, low-tech we can get away with, the better!
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
12-28-2012, 12:11 PM
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Thanks! I have heard other folks mention that the newer coatings do make a difference - and I'm a believer in coatings - so I wondered if there was something to document what the differences were. I currently have an F, M, K and two SMC 1.4's and the old screwmount lenses are the best. However, as I age I am appreciating the autofocus of the F. I don't miss the FA I sold but I did wonder if the newer 55 would be something to consider. Now, I think I'll wait.
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Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
12-28-2012, 01:11 AM
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I'm not an expert with the light tent but found, as Jatrax suggested, that two simple hardware store clamp lights (about $10.00 each) with 5500 CFL light bulbs enable you to take some beautiful product shots. Cost is very low - less than $100.00 for the tent and lights. I suggest buying a pop-up style tent that is larger than you think you need; mine is 3' square and its just about right to shoot almost any product I've had to shoot. Once the tent is up you position the product and move the lights to give you the look you want. Works nicely, with minimal reflections and very soft light.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
12-28-2012, 12:49 AM
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HOLY SMOKES, JATRAX!!
That is an awesome F-collection, and has to be the most amazing F-LBA display I've ever seen! You have a serious affliction, Sir. :)
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
12-27-2012, 03:37 PM
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Na Horuk,
I've wondered about whether or not the DA lens coatings do make a difference on newer digital cameras. Are you aware of any fast 50 tests that were done under controlled conditions to compare the effects of the newer vs older coatings? I'm not questioning you; I really do want to know. It seems to me that they should make a difference but what, specifically, are those differences and are they enough to make me consider switching from my F50/1.7?
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
12-26-2012, 03:46 PM
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Hi Reeftool. I have to agree - stuck filters can be due to overtightening or a damaged mount. My worst stuck was on a lens that had a filter that wouldn't stay on so I tightened it a bit more and left that filter on for a few years. When I went to take it off to use a polarizer it was stuck so bad that it required a wrench and a vise to get it off. Lots of white powder was left on the threads so I probably ground through the anodizing. Lesson learned.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
12-26-2012, 03:39 PM
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Oh please, Snake, your ego got bruised somehow and you took issue with every little thing. You are implying that its me against the forum, which isn't true at all. Its me against you and your insulting arrogance. The forum has nothing to do with this.
I see you for what you are - a shallow little forum bully. You refused to focus on the issue, that galling can occur and filters get stuck. Instead you spent my time and yours dealing with your ego issues. I will let this go for now but in the future don't think that you can bully anyone else. If I see it, and you're wrong, I'll step up.
You're right about one thing, though. Your posts do stand for all to see.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
12-26-2012, 10:41 AM
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I meant to leave this alone since arguing with people like you usually ends up badly but I find your statements insulting so I will address you.
I machine these materials (aluminum, stainless, brass, etc.) weekly or daily to close tolerances and have learned about galling through both study and experience. Do you have cutting fluid under your nails or is your machining experience conducted with a mouse? You say you've worked and studied metalworking in the past so if you can discuss this as machinist to machinist then we can have a go at it. I haven't said anything that is misleading. My mistake was in not recognizing that what most machinists consider common knowledge is not so common outside that group. I am referring to work hardening here, just to be clear. Google it.
I made the point that filters can gall and get stuck on lenses. You implied that since this wasn't your experience that I was making something of it. Many people have had filters get seriously stuck.Go ahead, do a search and prove I'm lying. I've made more filter wrenches than I care to remember over the years to know this is an issue to be aware of. You also implied that I "clipped" info from the Wiki you posted. I did not; I spoke from experience - the real kind, both as a lens and filter user of over 40 years and as a machinist.
I just started posting on this forum recently and expect that I will hear from the Mods soon but I also frequent other forums and there are always bullies like you in one form or another. Quite frankly, I'm tired of people like you who think that intimidation will work with everybody. It doesn't. If the forum mods don't spot you soon and deal with you then other folks who fail to stand up to your tactics will be driven from the forum. And please, don't tell me that I'm misleading the forum. I am simply not tolerating your attitude.
Mods, do what you will. I've tried to express an opinion to the OP with the intent to be helpful but it seems that my tolerance is getting thin as I age.
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