Liked Posts - Search Results - PentaxForums.com

The Latest

Forum

Cameras

Page 1 of 2

⟶

Showing results 1 to 25 of 43 Search: Liked Posts

Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 12-29-2021, 08:07 PM

Why and when to select focus points ?
Posted By K2 to K50

Replies: 14
Views: 856

When taking a photo of a relatively stationary subject ( a person posing, a bird stationary on a branch) you often want to fit the whole subject into the frame. If you only use the central focus point (usually on the head/face) then part of the subject may be out of the frame. If you do not have a zoom lens, and moving further away isn't option, then shifting the focus point higher (or lower), or to the right or left may allow you to still focus on the head/face but have all of the subject in the pic.
For instance in this shot I didn't do that, the bird's face (eye) is smack in the centre of the photograph, but the last part of the bird's tail is chopped off. If I had moved the focus point 2 or 3 steps to the left, I could have still focused on the eye, but got the bird's tail into the frame.

Forum: Pentax News and Rumors 07-03-2020, 07:32 PM

Sticky: An important message from the moderators
Posted By Adam

Replies: 323
Views: 64,663

To the PF community:

I hope everyone is doing well and staying healthy in these unprecedented times (please check out our statement on the coronavirus if you haven't already). Like many other businesses, the camera industry has also suffered in the past months (e.g., low camera sales figures and more recently, the sale of the Olympus camera division, etc.). Consequently, even though it would seem that Pentax is coping quite well in comparison, we've been observing a steady rise in negative sentiment toward the Pentax brand throughout the community, which in some cases has led to unpleasant confrontations in forum threads and difficult decisions by the moderators.

In line with my mission of Pentax Forums being a friendly and inclusive community for Pentax users, we are going to be taking a series of steps to help minimize these kinds of unpleasantries going forward.

We are seeking additional moderators across multiple time zones to ensure that fewer issues that require moderator attention slip through the cracks (please visit this thread if interested)

To the extent possible, we will take a proactive approach to help members avoid issues, rather than directly stepping in to act on problematic post/threads

We will provide a greater degree of transparency regarding moderator actions in cases where a member disagrees with a decision that was made, even if the decision itself is not reversed

We will gather additional feedback from the community: please feel free to share your ideas in this thread (the moderators will not comment on specific incidents however), or contact the moderators privately

Although constructive criticism is welcome and encouraged, we will continue to maintain a firm stance against any form of bullying, trolling, or personal attacks.

To the latter point, I'd like to reiterate this statement that the moderation team posted several months ago:

Quote:

In recent weeks and months we have received feedback - primarily from new members, but a few established ones too - regarding unnecessarily harsh, dismissive, rude and/or aggressive responses, especially (but not only) when someone raises concerns, doubts or criticisms of the Pentax brand.

PentaxForums is a brand-specific enthusiast site, and most of us here are Pentax enthusiasts. New members with critical views of the brand have a responsibility to understand the dynamics of the community they're participating in and consider the effect of their posts, and we've updated our Welcome & Forum Rules sticky post to reflect this, with guidelines for new members. Even so, all of our members - new and old - have a responsibility to respect each other's opinions (even when we disagree), remain courteous and friendly at all times, keep an open mind, and avoid jumping to conclusions, making personal comments or name-calling (terms such as "fanboy" or "troll", for example). We each represent these forums whenever we post, and it's incumbent on us to present our community as welcoming, respectful, tolerant and helpful to all.

We might reasonably hope that our most established members in particular would take this responsibility to heart, to ensure the continued popularity and longevity of our community and the brands we all support.

When faced with a post where you feel the only option is to dismiss it or "shoot it down", please consider the wider effects of your response. If rules have been broken, report the post to a moderator using the "yellow triangle" report post feature (not by PM, please) and avoid further involvement in the discussion until a moderating decision has been made. Otherwise, please be mindful of the standards referred to above when responding.

Most of all, please strive to be friendly and respectful at all times. There is never just one way to offer (or counter) an opinion. However ill-conceived or inflammatory a post may seem, responding in kind does nothing to help our community and its reputation.

The moderating team will not hesitate to take appropriate action against members who consistently impact the forum atmosphere in a negative way.

Thank you very much for your consideration, and - as always - many thanks for your valued contribution to the forums!

Forum: Pentax News and Rumors 07-03-2020, 07:49 PM

Sticky: An important message from the moderators
Posted By ismaelg

Replies: 323
Views: 64,663

Thank you and the moderators team for the big and continuous effort in keeping our home in order.

Forum: Pentax News and Rumors 07-03-2020, 07:37 PM

Sticky: An important message from the moderators
Posted By UncleVanya

Replies: 323
Views: 64,663

Thank you. I think this is a positive and reasonable direction.

Forum: Pentax News and Rumors 07-03-2020, 08:10 PM

Sticky: An important message from the moderators
Posted By AggieDad

Replies: 323
Views: 64,663

This has always been one of the most civil and useful sites of its type on the Internet. It is a shame that some folks have recently been venting their frustrations in a negative manner. I appreciate everyone's efforts – especially our moderators – to keep our forum respectful and courteous.

Thanks for this message and these steps. I am only sorry this was necessary.

Don Simmons

Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 08-09-2014, 11:57 AM

Photo Recovery
Posted By Darla

Replies: 10
Views: 5,513

Hi All, Hope this info helps someone trying to recover lost files on an SD card.
During a shoot someone touched some buttons on my K20D,
and the shots we had taken disappeared! Camera would not display them anymore.
I figured they were still on the card since we had seen each one as we took it.
I took out the card and locked it- and used a new formatted card for the remainder of the shoot.

When I transferred the SD card to my PC-
the shots from previous shoots were STILL there,
but today's shots showed as an EMPTY folder.

I tried a bunch of recovery tools and the one that finally worked
for me was CardRecovery v6.10- I found it on an old
Tom's Hardware post which listed the top 5 FREE programs.
It is not free anymore.
After I saw the files -I had to pay $39.95 for the license and the files were recovered.
Each shot has the JPG /and the DNGs are PEFs- but seem to be fine.
Recuva did not show any missing files for me.
ZAR- files did show up in a folder for free- but are not usable/
Raw DNGs showed as TIFFs.
Photorec CGSecurity, scanned, but I could not get files to save to a folder.
CardRecoveryPro (not free) only found a few files-
and some of those JPGs were missing their RAW file.

Before you start any recovery attempts:
Lock the memory card tab.
Do not use the card to take any new shots,
or write anything to the card.
Always save recovered files to a new/separate folder-
NOT back onto the same SD card.
I read that I should put the card into a card reader to do the scans,
but in the end- connecting my camera to the PC worked for me.

Hope this helps someone- I'd like to hear what works for you.
*I read a closed post by ljlayne which had some good info.

*And- Do not let anyone touch your camera ;)
Darla

Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50 12-17-2016, 08:34 PM

K-30/K-50 Aperture Control Problem/Black Photo Repair - How I did it.
Posted By Clover-Leaf

Replies: 86
Views: 57,854

After sitting idle for a few months, I fired up my K-30 to find it was taking black photos only. After some basic troubleshooting, it was obvious that the aperture was closing down all the way, no matter what the camera said it should be. So some internet searches led me here because it seems the only technical article is from a Russian site. One of the members here was good enough to translate it for us, so at least I had a basic understanding of what to look for.

Since I have a long background in electronics troubleshooting and working on small delicate items, I decided to dig into my K-30. It was useless and not worth anything as it was, so what's to loose? Here I'll explain how I did it, and maybe help others that find themselves in a similar situation.

So let’s get started. For the sake of clarity, the right and left sides of the camera are when viewed from the front. Also, work with a body cap to protect all the innards, and keep small parts from flying in there.

1) Remove the bottom plate: Remove all the screws holding the bottom plate. Make careful note of which screw came from which hole. Some screws are fine thread for metal and some are coarse thread for screwing into plastic. There are 3mm, 4mm, 6mm, 7mm and 10mm screws. While you’re at it don’t forget the silver screw down inside the battery compartment. There is a total of 13 screws.

2) Remove the top cover: WARNING: (I hate stupid warning messages, but this IS important, so DON’T take it lightly. The flash capacitor is directly under the PCB that you will be desoldering wires from on the right side, and areas near the PCB do have some “juice” that can give you a NASTY JOLT – one you won’t forget! Be very careful).

Slide the rubber eyepiece up to remove it. There are 2 screws under it that need to be removed. Remove the 2 screws just inside the loops for the neck strap. There is another screw on the right side just under the button for the pop-up flash. Now pop up the flash and remove the 3 screws inside the front. There is a total of 8 screws. The top cover is not difficult to remove at this point. A thumbnail pressed into the top cover seam is all that is needed to get it started. Be gentle. If you pull too hard and it suddenly pops off, the wires inside will most likely get ripped off their solder pads. There is a total of 6 wired to be unsoldered.

3) Unsolder the wires from the PCB on the right side. Position the camera as shown below to minimize the stress in the wire leads. Make note of their locations and unsolder them. (Remember that warning above????)

4) Remove the ribbon connector on the left side.

5) In case you lose track of where the wires go, this should help.

6) Remove the front cover: Remove the rubber grip on the right side of the camera. There are 2 screws underneath. Peel back the left rubber grip slightly and remove the first screw that appears. Lay the rubber back down – there is no need to remove it. Remove the other screw on the left side near the DC power jack. There is one more screw on the bottom between the projections for the lens and hand grip. There is a total of 5 screws. The front cover should pop off – there are no wires connected to it.

7) With the 3 covers removed, we can get to the solenoid. It’s just to the left of the large silver cross in the center of the photo. Unsolder the 2 wires. You will need a long small jewelers size Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw that holds it in place. Now just pick it out by the steel frame, not by the copper coils!

8) Here’s the culprit. The solenoid is shown in it’s activated position, locked in place, even though there is no power applied. When the solenoid is activated, the horse shoe shaped plunger (the bottom piece of steel) is pulled up into the 2 coils, as shown. This activates the arm that controls the aperture opening. The vertical slit in the top of the frame has a powerful neodymium magnet inserted into it. The problem is that the plunger is pulled in so far that the legs of the horse shoe hit the highly magnetized frame at the top of the solenoid. The magnetic pull is so great that the horse shoe plunger is locked in place very solidly. I didn’t think to measure the amount of force to pull the plunger back out, but it has to be at least a couple of pounds. That magnet is surprisingly powerful.

9) Since I didn’t want to make any permanent changes that couldn’t be reversed, I elected to fill in the gap at the bottom of the horse shoe, and then add another .25mm so it would bump the plastic solenoid coil form before the top end of the legs could get magnetically locked to the upper steel frame. So I filled the bottom of the of the horse shoe with solder and then carved it into shape with an x-acto knife (with a new blade) so the legs are now only 3.37mm long, as opposed to the original 3.87mm long.

10) At this point, I put it all back together by just reversing the whole procedure. The camera is taking fine pictures again, and for 0$$. Total time was about 3.5 hours. If you want to try this yourself, here are a few pointers:
Be patient and think things out.
Be gentle - it's a delicate item with even more delicate parts inside.
Have a large, clean and organized work area.
Spread out a clean bath towel over your work area - small parts do not bounce off of a towel.

Forum: Pentax News and Rumors 09-08-2016, 04:05 AM

PF 10th Anniversary - World Pentax Day + Giveaway!
Posted By Mixed Leaf

Replies: 159
Views: 13,546

I really love what Pentax devices are able to do!!

Forum: Pentax News and Rumors 02-13-2016, 03:58 AM

Picture of K-1
Posted By Penumbra

Replies: 352
Views: 70,761

Gentlemen, in fairness let us remember that Pentax failed as a business. This part (the failure), in my opinion has almost nothing to do with the people in "the factory", the opticians, the whole production crew so to speak and the quality of their products.
It has to do with the aggressive, perverse, manipulative sob you must be today to survive as a company, but that's another story.

But if you have the opportunity to write these lines here, now, it's because of Ricoh. I understand and respect your loyalty to Pentax, i have it too, but let's be fair!

Forum: Weekly Photo Challenges 10-28-2015, 04:57 PM

Weekly Challenge 332 - Path
Posted By colonel00

Replies: 46
Views: 5,530

Forum: Monthly Photo Contests 11-02-2014, 04:15 PM

The perfect wrapper
Posted By Outis

Replies: 3
Views: 613

Nominate!

Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 09-23-2014, 09:50 PM

24mm and/or 28mm and/or 35mm Manual vs zoom lenses
Posted By troika

Replies: 18
Views: 4,101

Also, take some time to dial in the focus on your 18-135 through the AF Fine Adjust. Mine was underwhelming until I did. I thought it was just soft, but it was missing focus.

Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 09-23-2014, 09:00 PM

24mm and/or 28mm and/or 35mm Manual vs zoom lenses
Posted By timo

Replies: 18
Views: 4,101

My experience with lens repairs is very patchy - if you are not sure about the guy you entrust your lens to, it may not be worth spending the money.

In your position I would buy an M28/3.5 (really nice lens in my experience, not expensive), and see how you get on. That FL is incredibly versatile on APS-C.

Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 09-23-2014, 08:00 PM

24mm and/or 28mm and/or 35mm Manual vs zoom lenses
Posted By troika

Replies: 18
Views: 4,101

I can weigh in on this. I started with a zoom and a nice MF fast 50 and enjoyed the prime so much I started picking them up whenever I got the chance. I have a 24mm obsession and own a nice K24/2.8. I also picked up an FA35/2 because it was on-sale and I was frustrated with some stuff. In between I owned an M28/2.8 that I got on a trade and didn't really want and I briefly owned a K30/2.8 that, is a whole story I don't want to get into. Oh, and I bought the DA40/2.8 ltd used here, used it for about a year and sold it here for break even to by the 35/2.

But, here's what I concluded.

F2 is much better than 2.8 low light. I know it's just one stop, but shooting indoors in low light without a flash to get near that fast 50 experience, it's at a tipping point between bright enough and not bright enough in my experience. So, for me, the FA35/2 is a much more useful lens than the DA40/2.8. Being a little wider and full frame help too. Image quality of both are quite good.

That M28 that I picked up in a trade, didn't really want and sold? Fantastic lens. It surprised me how good it was and it started me down the path of wanting wider and "better". I don't think my K30 was a good copy and I essentially returned it because it wasn't even close to as good as the M28 and by review standards, it should have blown it away. The K24 I have is a really nice copy, but I don't use it as much as I thought I would. For landscape, my DA18-135 zoom is pretty good at 24mm and for candid, low light, neither is really fast enough (for me). I'm not the most experienced photographer here by a long shot, but if you're going for that fast 50 experience, 2.8 didn't get me there.

The 24 is a phenomenal lens. I love it on film the way that I think people love the DA15 on digital and I love the focal length on dSLR as well, but I really wish it was F2 or faster. I don't mind manual focus, but I also find that at this focal length I rarely center the immediate foreground subject, so wide open a candid of a person, focus and recompose it a tough shot. If I center the subject and crop it to Rule of 3rds, I kind of wasted the wideness.

I'm disappointed that the DA21 is yet slower than 2.8, though fractionally. Aside from the Sigmas which are much bigger, more expensive, and by reputation less consistent it's tough to get much faster than 35/2.

For the money, no question that a 28/2.8 MF lens is the good buy. I don't know if it's enough wider than 35 to be worth it, though. 24, 21, 20 and under are, but of what I've owned price/speed/quality it is the hands down winner. You didn't say what you were photographing at this FL, so I'm applying my own values, if low light speed isn't important to you, then you may come up with a different answer. But, if you have 2 prime, 50 and 28 is a nice spread and both are abundant and much less expensive than 24, 30 and even 35 for some reason.

Not parting with my 24/2.8 just yet, by the way. When I have the right subject in the right light, it's remarkable. Film or digital.

Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 09-23-2014, 07:18 PM

24mm and/or 28mm and/or 35mm Manual vs zoom lenses
Posted By Kozlok

Replies: 18
Views: 4,101

<---THIS

I often think the forums should just have an automatic feature that if someone posts which lens should I get... that the forum automatically replies DA15mm Limited.

When you first shoot it, you will be like "what's the fuss about, these photos aren't that great". Then you will learn to take about 10 steps closer to the subject, and it will be like WOW, now I get it.

Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 09-23-2014, 07:06 PM

24mm and/or 28mm and/or 35mm Manual vs zoom lenses
Posted By pinholecam

Replies: 18
Views: 4,101

Just get back a 24mm.
The off brands and not expensive at all.
I had a Cosina 24/2.8 'macro' (more like close focus) and it was as sharp as the K24/2.8 I had on aps-c.
Focused closer than the K24/2.8 too.
And it cost S$50-60
The reason I sold it off was that it was less well built, color rendition was cooler (I usually prefer warmer) and flare resistance was not on par to the K24.
Even the K24/2.8 isn't that expensive nowadays on Clubsnap BnS.

The UWA zoom, you can wait it out for a good deal in the BnS.
The Sigma 10-20 can go for S$350-400, not too expensive imo.
So get the 24mm first, but still look out for the 10-20mm.

Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 09-23-2014, 01:13 PM

24mm and/or 28mm and/or 35mm Manual vs zoom lenses
Posted By osv

Replies: 18
Views: 4,101

unless you spend a lot of money, zooms aren't usually as good as even the old primes are... i'd replace the 24mm, and get a 28mm as well, like dms says.

those old vivitars are fairly cheap here in the states, can you find 'em in singapore?

i just tested a 24mm vivitar(actually tokina, 37xxxxxx serial number) prime on my a7r, and it was surprisingly good at ~f10, much cleaner on the sides than my smc pentax 24/2.8... unfortunately the aperture leaves are gummed up, gotta fix that :-/

here is the link to the vivitar manufacturer database, by serial number:
https://www.cameraquest.com/VivLensManuf.htm

for 28mm lenses, the smc pentax-m 28/3.5 is the best i've tested so far, at ~f10, for landscapes.

Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 09-23-2014, 12:15 PM

24mm and/or 28mm and/or 35mm Manual vs zoom lenses
Posted By dms

Replies: 18
Views: 4,101

Where the sweet spot for wide angle is for me much clearer than the longer focal lengths--which are driven almost solely by subject matter. And I can only tell you what works or doesn't for me.
[Excluding my theatre photo work] I like moderately wide primes and the build of the pre AF lenses and go no wider than 24 mm on Pentax dslr (which is equivalent to 35mm on FF 35mm film ).
And as walk around a 28mm is my favorite. If I want wider I do collages.
I feel there is a major difference between 24mm and 28mm--so if you really liked 24 mm I would stay there.

Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 09-23-2014, 10:42 AM

24mm and/or 28mm and/or 35mm Manual vs zoom lenses
Posted By Na Horuk

Replies: 18
Views: 4,101

Hm, those questions are difficult for us to answer. I use mostly primes, so I would suggest a prime, though I am sure something like the Tamron 17-50mm f2.8 would give you significantly better results than the DA kit lens (and Sigma even better). But I agree with the strengths of primes that you listed. They help you grow in a way that zooms, in my opinion, don't. Buying the DA 15mm is probably a good idea, since it is a very beloved lens on these forums. Just keep in mind that there is a big, big difference between 24mm and 15mm! Ultra wide is a whole new beast, difficult to tame!
You seem like the kind of person that would appreciate a good prime more than a zoom, so I would suggest you go with primes. You can try the DA 35mm, so you get full automation for a low price, but still prime optical quality. Or the limiteds. The problem is only that the Pentax lineup is currently a bit lacking between 21mm and 31mm, so for 24mm and 28mm your only options are legacy or third party lenses.

Oh, and when it comes to repairs, just show a repair center your lens, they tell you how much the repair will cost and then you decide if its worth it. Getting lenses repaired is often a good investment, just make sure the service centre seems to know what they are doing.

Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 09-23-2014, 10:36 AM

24mm and/or 28mm and/or 35mm Manual vs zoom lenses
Posted By jatrax

Replies: 18
Views: 4,101

I would look into getting your 24mm repaired. It might not be as bad as you think. I had a lens look like that, and it was just off the 'track' so to speak, I popped it back and it has worked fine ever since. NOT recommending you try that but a camera shop might be able to repair at less cost than getting another lens.

Assuming you are happy with it of course. If not, then try another lens. But if your widest is currently 24mm, then remember that 24mm is just a wide angle on APS-C. Ultra wide angle will be maybe 16mm and wider. So the UWA lenses like 12-24 or 10-20 might work, or the 15mm limited. But those are all much different than your 24mm. So if you like 24mm do not think that 15mm is better, it is very different.

Forum: Pentax Full Frame 09-11-2014, 10:53 AM

Why Pentax SHOULD make a full frame, an answer to the link on homepage
Posted By Robert_1

Replies: 302
Views: 27,109

Pentax should make a FF because I want one. I do not care about this or that in or against it. I do not need to have a specific reason other than I want one, period.

Forum: Pentax Full Frame 09-12-2014, 06:05 AM

Why Pentax SHOULD make a full frame, an answer to the link on homepage
Posted By Kunzite

Replies: 302
Views: 27,109

I strongly disagree. Pentax should make at least two, because I also want one ;)

Forum: Pentax Full Frame 09-08-2014, 07:44 AM

Why Pentax SHOULD make a full frame, an answer to the link on homepage
Posted By jsherman999

Replies: 302
Views: 27,109

Norm you seem to be internalizing the discussion and taking things personally. Three thoughts:

1) This is an internet forum where such things are discussed, and in the current environment of photo-tech disruption, it might make a great deal of sense for Pentax to strengthen it's bread-butter product by offering a FF body or two.

2) From a shooter's perspective, it's completely normal to want 'more', or at least have the option of buying more that doesn't strand your past lens purchases.

3) If you don't like these dicussions, why do you read this subforum? It's like walking into a Ford dealership and loudly announcing that everyone needs to stop talking about Fords because it bothers you.

.

Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50 09-04-2014, 12:33 PM

I took a K-30 w/18-55mm WR to Burning Man...it survived!
Posted By Obey

Replies: 39
Views: 7,086

Here it is after:

And here's the gallery:

Burning Man 2014 - Imgur

Just hosed it off when I got home, still works perfectly!

Quick notes:
I used the FA 1.4 50mm at the burn itself - it got dusty but seems OK.
I used the AA adapter and must have taken 1000 photos on one set of Amazon AA rechargeables. Amazing.

Forum: Pentax Full Frame 08-30-2014, 04:06 PM

How to push the Pentax Full-Frame Idea and get that FF out faster...
Posted By amom2twins

Replies: 1,493
Views: 184,455

Unfortunately I gave up waiting for Pentax and went over to Canon for a full frame. Everything about it is worth the price. It has changed my pictures for the better, and reduced my workflow in photoshop. The low light performance, and the dof being so creamy are worth the switch. I really don't understand why Pentax is having such problem with producing a full frame camera. I will never shoot APS-C for my portrait sessions again. I got rid of my K3 and haven't even missed it. I still have my K5 for sports, but I will never use it for portraits again. For anyone that is wondering why anyone would want to go to full frame hasn't ever used a full frame or used one to it's fullest. I will definitely purchase a Pentax full frame in the future if they ever make one.

Search took 0.00 seconds | Showing results 1 to 25 of 43

Page 1 of 2

⟶

Forum Jump

Search Results for Liked Posts