|
Forum: Pentax K-3 Photo Contest
04-28-2014, 07:10 PM
|
| |
| |
|
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
04-08-2011, 09:21 AM
|
| |
I'm one of the rare ones who had problems with cameras Eric worked on.
An ME Super was returned to me with an intermittent failing shutter that he did not catch. He didn't catch it because there is no way to see it on the bench unless it happens by chance and no way to make it repeat. Once he saw my negatives, he understood the problem. I returned the camera to him and he replaced the shutter block. For free.
An MX had a problem with flash sync, a curtain not being clear of the frame before exposure. He was challenged by the problem and eventually we arranged trade. He kept that camera to see if his ideas on fixing it would play out in exchange for another ME Super he had on hand and had overhauled.
I mention these to let people know that Eric isn't perfect. No one working with these type of mechanical devices can be perfect. From the comments here and elsewhere, he certainly comes pretty darn close, though!
With both problems I had, he was determined to make things right. He didn't charge for the new shutter block since he had missed it. I still paid him for it. The MX was a challenge to him, so I hope he was satisfied with the trade; the ME Super he sent me is perfect.
Mistakes will happen. How people resolve mistakes is the real test of character. The combination of his honesty and willingness to make things right, and the quality of his work in the end, is unusual and deserves support. I will not hesitate to send a camera to him again.
If there is any 'lesson' for others in my experience, it would be to DO A TEST RUN on ANY camera that has been worked on. Don't just throw it in the suitcase when it returns form repair (by anyone!) and hop on the boat to Antarctica for a once in lifetime shoot.
|
|
Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II
12-28-2010, 08:02 PM
|
| |
Ah, where to begin? Let's see.... the center column of the example photos is labeled 'SR Off' and it actually has more shake than the.... oh heck, I have better things to do than correct someone with no reading comprehension. If people like this spent as much time doing something constructive instead of ignorantly spouting attacks and insults, the world would be a better place.
Interesting to see that some people share this issue with Al. I wonder if it is constant and some don't notice it, or if it is individual units that have it more than others, or individual shooters who do something that accentuates it?
And as someone has already pointed out, if tripod, MLU, 2 second delay, and remote release is the best answer at 1/60, something is wrong with the camera.
|
|
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
12-02-2010, 11:51 PM
|
| |
On the MX, I found that flicking my index finger *fingernail* against the shutter release was the secret to consistent lock-up. A motion of flicking something off the end of my thumb, letting the fingernail graze the shutter release.
|
|
Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II
11-28-2010, 11:45 PM
|
| |
No, to put it simply. The sensor itself needs to be level. Skewing an image with prisms (or using lens elements as prisms for this purpose) will not rotate it around its axis, only shift it laterally.
|
|
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
11-27-2010, 08:36 AM
|
| |
It might be worth sending an email to Eric Hendrickson and ask what he thinks. He knows what is really happening inside and how Pentax tried to deal with mirror slap on each model.
Home
You'll probably be dealing with him for an overhaul.
|
|
Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II
11-26-2010, 09:14 PM
|
| |
An explanation of interpolation and what happens with rotating an image amounts other than 90, 180, 270-
Understanding Digital Image Interpolation
Now this type of cropping/image adjustment is a post-processing issue. I do not know what is happening inside the K5, if it is interpolating or if it is rotating the sensor to avoid the need to interpolate. I thought it was rotating the sensor, but am happy to be corrected.
|
|
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
11-25-2010, 09:15 AM
|
| |
I haven't used an Abrahamson version. I did use a cheap concave 15mm diameter soft release on an MX and it worked fine.
I recently got a different company's version and have used it on both an ME Super and a Minolta Autocord TLR. I have the small 'bip' in the silver bug paint. That size works well for both cameras, clearing the lens shroud and shutter speed knob on the Autocord, and sliding into the plastic recess on the ME Super.
match Technical Services - Beep - Boop - Bip - Bug
Nice shape, I like the lack of knurling on the rim, and having done machine work over the years I can appreciate brass over aluminum. But all of these are personal quirks, not criticisms of the Abrahamson design (never seen one in person)
I never tried the 15mm concave cheap version on the ME Super. All in all, the ME Super release is already 'soft' and sculpted so I don't use any version these days. I don't have an MX any more so can't try the small 'bip' on one.
|
|
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
08-01-2010, 06:44 PM
|
| |
ME Super, M28, Tri-X, Rodinal:
 |
|
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
08-01-2010, 03:02 PM
|
| |
Unless you really want to learn about repairing shutters, and unless you are willing to destroy some cameras in the process, I'd suggest that you just send it to Eric and get it over with. It's something worth learning, but it *will* cost you, time, tools, a camera or two... Or you pay someone and get on with using the camera for the next decade or more.
|
|
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
02-22-2010, 11:22 PM
|
| |
As to 200mm lenses, the SMC-M 200mm f4 is a nice lens. Not spectacular but certainly very good. And a low price.
|
|
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
02-21-2010, 10:52 AM
|
| |
Maybe you could confirm with your friend that the Olympus has the gray griptac, not the charcoal griptac? I have been confused at time by the names, calling the 'black' charcoal gray, etc.
I ask because the charcoal black can look very much like your friend's camera. Depending on the light, the plastic griptac can take on quite a variety of shades of gray. Here's the same camera above, charcoal black, with different light. Looks very similar to the Olympus of your friend, and nothing like the cameraleather site 'gray' example-
 |
|
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
02-18-2010, 09:55 PM
|
| |
THere's a gray Griptac Olympus on the cameraleather.com site. I don't think I'd want it on one of my cameras.... looks like a prop in a bad Woodie Allen movie.
|
|
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
02-14-2010, 07:20 PM
|
| |
I recently acquired a new-to-me ME Super, my second one, in a trade involving an MX. I just realized that the ME Super is the perfect camera for how I shoot, and that someone else might make better use of the MX.
The MX had been overhauled by Eric Hendrickson and was working well except for a problem with the flash sync. Eric had worked on it twice. A problem he hadn't encountered before, and he had ideas on what to try next. During this time, I realized that the ME Super was a better camera for me, and Eric and I decided that I would give him the MX in exchange for one of his stock of ME Supers, with a CLA.
I mentioned to him that I was going to be applying Griptac covering from CameraLeather.com Custom camera leather and leatherette so that he could just leave off any leatherette he removed as part of the overhaul. Being the kind of guy that he is, the camera showed up with all leatherette removed and a completely cleaned surface- no cement, no residue- in pristine shape to apply the new covering.
I decided to remove the self-timer lever for applying the Griptac (not necessary- see the web site) and forgot that it is a reverse thread. Snapped it right off. I emailed Eric about getting a small bolt out and he emailed right back with a great technique- using a needle to walk it out. By then I realized that I actually don't like the self-timer lever- I end up grabbing it with my finger in handling, etc. So I found a plug piece from my bag of parts from another ME Super and used it instead of the lever. I think that is the nut that holds the ASA/exposure comp rings in place....
I love Griptac for this kind of camera. I usually carry it without a strap, just a wrist band as a safety. In my right hand most of the time. Griptac does make it more secure. Cold, sweaty, gloves- turns that little ME Super into a poor man's street Leica of sorts. Here's a photo (the neoprene washers stop rubbing and clanging when I attach a strap with metal hooks). In real life the Griptac looks darker- next to a regular Pentax leatherette, they are about the same value-
I don't know if Eric would want to take on applying new covers, but I wonder if people would like that option when they send it in for him to CLA? He could work out a deal with Morgan at cameraleather and charge on top of materials. You tell him which you want from the cameraleather web site, he gets it and applies it, and you get a camera that is as good as new both inside and out?
Well, just a thought. Sometimes I wonder if he'll stay in business charging what he does, and lots of people need him to keep doing what he is doing. So a new addition that fits right into his service....
|
|
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
02-03-2010, 07:54 AM
|
| |
I've had two cameras CLA'd by Eric Hendrickson and another on the way back to me soon. You should be quite happy.
I will say that I'd recommend running a quick test roll through the camera before going out on any serious shooting. One of my cameras came back with a flash sync problem, and the other came back with a shutter problem. Just my luck to get 2 intermittent problems out of 2 cameras. Eric made good on both jobs.
I buy color negative film on sale at Walgreens and send it through their 1-hour film destruction system as my test roll- quick, cheap, shows me what I need to see.
The 50mm f1.7- same optical formula through the various models- is a fantastic lens.
|
|
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
01-21-2010, 10:17 AM
|
| |
Yes,send it in. Email him with a description of the problems and he can probably give you a good idea of what you are looking at.
|
|
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
01-13-2010, 02:55 PM
|
| |
The MX viewfinder is not *waaaay* better than the ME Super. Slightly better, but I'd guess I'd need to have them both in front of me to really say that the difference is significant.
The MX metering system works for me. I switch cameras all the time and have to adapt to different systems, so I don't have a strong preference. The only real problem I have with the MX is that I am left-eyed so I often keep the wind lever tucked in so it doesn't poke me in the right eye. And this turns off the meter unless I press lightly on the shutter release.
You want EV comp, the MX is easier than any of them- the LEDs give you a simple over/under indication at 1/2 and a full stop. After that, you can simply count the clicks on the aperture ring or shutter dial for more compensation. That's the beauty of manual cameras- you don't need to trick them to change exposure, you simply do it as part of standard operation.
|
|
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
01-12-2010, 10:57 AM
|
| |
What is wrong with sticking with the ME Super?
I have an MX and an ME Super. The MX is slightly bigger, and I mean slightly. And it is heavier, about 2 ounces, I believe. It is noticeable when I go from one to the other, but almost nothing compared to a K10d, at 750grams plus (MX- 490g, ME Super-440g or so).
Does the K2 have a meter needle? If so, well, that's a sweet thing. The MX LEDs are fine, but a floating needle is more fun. I do have a K1000 and like the needle, but can't enjoy the extra weight and bulk compared to the M-series.
As has been said, $150 is a bit high for an MX. Has it been overhauled recently? And the 28mm isn't worth much. It's a nice lens and I use one all the time, but it's a toss-in on the price, not a significant factor.
|
|
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
01-07-2010, 09:19 PM
|
| |
Try various approaches and see what works! Seriously. I had been using digital cameras since getting back into photography 10 years ago. Viewfinders and diopters were either not an issue or built in. Being over 40, my eyes have been slowly losing close focus. So when I started using an older film camera last Spring, I had problems.
Problems will be pretty obvious. Not being able to read viewfinder displays. Or not being able to tell if something is in focus. It isn't as if your focus will be shifted 3% front or back; this isn't like autofocus front/back focus. This is simply less than focused.
My answer can be seen here:
Login
Realize that off-the-shelf readers work fine for me. I took the camera into a store and just tried a variety of strengths until I found one that gave the best focus. I bought the pair and used it to make the eyepiece.
Just try different glasses, lenses, etc. I've wondered if I could take an eyepiece like I used into an optometrist, try various blanks out of their stock, and have them cut to fit.
FYI, my usual reading glass strength is +2.25 or so. For the eyepiece adapter, +1.25 is what actually worked best. So simply using your standard prescription might not be the best lens. Maybe there is a logic to how much diopter offset will make one work, and then you can get a prescription lens with the astigmatism correction, also?
|
|
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
01-05-2010, 09:54 PM
|
| |
Well, keep your eyes open on eBay and other places. See if Eric has any replacements. I know I sent him a junker black MX last fall that had an undented top panel as I remember. It had a decent amount of brassing, though.
|
|
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
01-05-2010, 05:43 PM
|
| |
There's a decent amount of room between the top of the prism cover and the actual prism on the MX. I don't know if Eric Hendrickson does metal work or has other covers to replace yours; email him and ask. Removing a dent in a metal piece like that is not easy.
I'd be more worried about the meter rather than the bent metal. As I remember when I opened an MX with a bad meter, there's a circuit that folds over the top of the prism. This flexible plastic with internal metal paths had cracked at the front edge, breaking one or two paths. Someone had soldered in a patch piece of wire for one of the breaks.
Again, talk to Eric, see what he thinks, etc.
|
|
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
01-05-2010, 05:15 PM
|
| |
Interesting comment on the shutter. I'm thinking of getting a back-up body to an ME Super and the Super Program attracts me, primarily because of the shutter speed readout on the top panel. There are times when I'd like a better idea of the shutter speed without raising the camera to my face.
You say the shutter is loud? Louder than an ME Super?
|
|
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
01-02-2010, 06:54 PM
|
| |
Got back into film this year when Lawson Stone was generous enough to give me an ME Super. It'd been over 20 years since I'd developed B&W film.
[IMG] [/IMG]
 |
|
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
12-21-2009, 12:35 PM
|
| |
When you get the MX covered, along with photos can you give a brief description of the feel of the leather material? I just put the Griptac on an ME Super and the handling is great. I'm thinking of doing the MX in a color, though. My concern is if the leather ends up as slippery as the existing stuff. Thanks!
|
