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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
09-06-2010, 11:39 PM
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The decision is even easier - do you need the flexibility of a zoom?
I have the Sigma, and doubt you'd be able to pick the difference in image quality between the two except for large side-by-side prints of images shot wide-open.
The Sigma is quite hand holdable, only slightly heavier than the 70-210/2.8, is sharp wide-open and even sharper stopped-down, the AF is very fast (I shoot on a K10D) and the build quality (it's an EX lens) is very good.
What I find remarkable is the extremely low CA, to the point where it is only slightly visible at 1:1 in some very high contrast scenes, so it's perfect for shooting watersports.
The only 'downside' is the price, I'd think the Pentax prime would be a little cheaper.
-Steve
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
07-21-2010, 09:01 PM
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My choice without any doubt would be the Pentax SMC A 35-105 paired with the SMC A 70-210. I think you'd get nearly universal agreement from anyone who has used these lenses that they are the best MF zooms produced by Pentax.
-steve
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
03-29-2010, 02:24 AM
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Ghosting is not an issue with any current Pentax digital body regardless of lens; the 35-105/3.5 is a fantastic lens, with near prime-like IQ, you won't be disapointed.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
08-20-2009, 10:05 PM
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Hi dazman, I recently tried out an FA50 from a forum member in Perth and it back-focused badly on my K10d. Disappointed as it was in perfect condition and a reasonable price. I figured it was just the combination of my specific body and that lens.
Note, while I agree in general with Marc's comment above, I've got a pretty good idea of how great DOF is at f2.8 with a 50mm lens, and I've also had plenty of MF experience on this particular body. None of my AF or MF lenses BF or FF to any noticible degree that can't be blamed on poor technique.
I find a good quick focus test is to shoot an object filling at least half the frame on a uniform surface (like grass) with central AF point. For the FA 50 I tried a number shots framing a stationary seagull at about 3m. At ~f2 the images were consistently soft, at 2.8 the grass is consistently in focus behind the bird. By f5.6 the image was OK but I wouldn't say it was particularly sharp, compared to the A 50/1.7 or the FA35/2 for instance. Same technique using a Tamron 90 (the pre-DG AF model) at least has some of the bird in sharp focus, even if is just some part of the body or legs!
So I wouldn't chalk this up to your poor technique just yet!
-Steve
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
07-30-2009, 02:02 AM
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I've recently done just that, it's quite easy if you have some basic skills and tools. There is a thread which covers a very similar lens (K 35/2 ?). Elements are removed as a single front assy & a single rear assy giving you access to the aperture blades.
Will post (dis)assy photos tomorrow.
-Steve
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Forum: Sold Items
05-10-2009, 10:45 PM
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Forum: Sold Items
05-07-2009, 08:53 PM
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Hi Nick PM sent on 55 macro.
-Steve
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Forum: Sold Items
05-06-2009, 02:34 AM
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pm sent .. pls post photos
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
04-29-2009, 02:00 AM
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Cameraland Camera House in Leederville stocks Pentax SLR bodies & the 'kit' lenses, some Pentax fit Sigma also. They can certainly order-in anything in stock from CRK.
Camera Electronic have an extensive Pentax range on display inc Limiteds and a good range of SH gear - the only store in Perth that I am aware of that stocks more than just the very basic range (and a vast array of all sorts of new & used stuff - some pretty exotic).
I've found Digital Camera Warehouse and B&H to be very good from the on-line perspective.
Hope this helps.
-Steve
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Forum: Sold Items
03-17-2009, 09:39 PM
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
03-10-2009, 06:56 PM
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Glad that helped - it took me a little while to figure out what was going on with the @#$!% flash also!
I re-checked last night, if you are on the auto settings and only need a little fill-flash, you might get away with the pre- and main flash. As more flash power is needed then the recycle time is too long to trigger in time - this is probably why you were sometimes getting the exposure right and other times not.
BTW, I made a mistake with the model number, it's actually the Vivitar 3700, swivel + bounce, without the zoom head. The module (base) is the same. It's a great flash for AUD $20 ! I'm also using the omni-bounce diffuser (was expensive - cost me as much as the flash unit ! )
-Steve
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
03-09-2009, 10:55 PM
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In response to the OP - I have the similar Vivitar 2500 model (same module base), you need to make sure the internal flash isn't set for red-eye. (Flash Mode "Flash On", NOT "Flash On+Red-eye"). The pre-flash you are getting is the red-eye reduction, and of course the flash can't recharge quick enough to re-trigger.
Regards the trigger voltage, I can't recall the exact value but it is between 8.5 and 10v. I've had no problems using this on a K10d. The 6-volt 'limit' is very conservative.
-steve
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
07-25-2008, 03:00 AM
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This is the response I received
"barrel is fine normal feel, the front element glass is rough-it is working but if you want pristine than the front element need replacing as reflected in the low price - the whole lens should be serviced."
That said though, if I had $150 burning a hole in my pocket it's probably worth the risk. On the other Pentax forum last year I remember (Frank?) posted some shots with a very rough looking lens, like the front element had been sandpapered with 40grit! Stopped down a bit the images were suprisingly good, perhaps not as contrasty as a sample in good condition, and probably more prone to flare.
I'm be interested to see some samples when it arives!
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
07-25-2008, 01:38 AM
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silverknight, if this is the BIN for $150 I was tempted, but the low price just rang alarm bells. You should check the condition with the seller and make-up your own mind - I don't equate "servicing" to replacing the front element.
-Steve
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
03-06-2008, 01:42 AM
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John, the later version (part#43812) Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 135/2.5 M42 mount and the SMC 135/2.5 k-mount are the same (superior 6-6) design. The earlier S-M-C Tak part#43802, the Super Tak and the K-mount Takumar Bayonet (52 mm filter I think) are different and optically not as good.
Reviews are mixed since it isn't always clear exactly which version is being commented on - I don't think the part # on the rear of the auto-manual switch is widely known about.
The #43812 S-M-C Tak is an excellent, and very sharp, lens.
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