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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
07-26-2019, 03:56 AM
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@pentasonic49 The red pixel always shows in the picture, what ever the color of the background. Hm I did not know I can change the ISO in Video mode on my K5-II. I looked closely at the sensor - there is nothing to see. its perfectly clean.
---------- Post added 07-26-19 at 12:58 PM ----------
This basically means my pentax is defect and I need to get a new one. Duh. If it is so, I suppose it was the last one I ever wanted to hold in my hand. So glad I am not locked in with many lenses. Good bye pentax.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
07-14-2019, 10:37 AM
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Can anybody here explain what "pixel mapping" does technically? Is it like harddrive sectors, that get remapped if they are broken?
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
07-14-2019, 10:13 AM
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Oh damn. I just saw, there are actually another red pixel. There is another one just below the first one.
@not a number: yes, I tried. pixel mapping does not help
@kevinWE: I thought of bringing the camera to a tech, but it will prolly cost too much to repair it. Just doing a diagnosis will cost me at least 50€ here in Germany. Repariing it will cost even more. This used camera costs around 250€ right now.
@ehrwien: Yes the dot stays independent of the lens. I tried (1) pentax 50/1.7 and (2) Tamron 17-50mm and (3) pentax 28. I do NOT see the red dot when taking fotos. I need to try to crank up the ISO, maybe it will become visible
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
07-14-2019, 01:45 AM
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There is a nasty red dot when taking videos with my K5-II (see picture). I tried the "pixel mapping" option - it does NOT help at all. The red pixel just sits there.
Is my camera broken now?
Ultra
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Forum: Photographic Technique
11-06-2018, 02:44 PM
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Honestly guys, I think they even photoshoped the left part of the arm on the final picture. Because that part of the arm is missing in the original shot. :-)
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Forum: Photographic Technique
11-06-2018, 01:31 PM
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@all. For those who cared to read up to this point. YES it seems to be a big stiching work. I found what seems to be the original picutre, where the subject was taken out of. If you look closely, you an see that they avoided to integrate the hair into the bigger picture by taking biger junks of the original image into the final result.
Thanks everybody for the discussion.
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Forum: Photographic Technique
11-06-2018, 01:16 PM
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@pres589 : ah, now I understand what you mean. The issue with the "one shot" version is that the angle of the background is so wide that I dont understand how the photogropher had possible fit the subject (half-body shot to be precise) AND such a wide blurred background in one picture.
By the way. This picture is taken from McKinsey website. Its surely done by a hired professional, who comes out for a day and takes pictures of several consultants at the same day. I think they would not go to an airport. The most possible location is the McKinsey offices. (But they are rarely so huge that it would look like an airport to alow such a wide shot ;) )
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Forum: Photographic Technique
11-06-2018, 11:21 AM
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What makes you so sure it was exactly 85mm ?
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Forum: Photographic Technique
11-06-2018, 10:41 AM
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@pres589: I have no clue at all, that is why I ask, haha.
So if I understood you correctly, your premise is that the portrait was taken in a studio and the background was taken in an airport. And the airport picture is a stitch taken from 3 picutres. And that the portrait was inserted into a stiched wide background?
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Forum: Photographic Technique
11-06-2018, 10:36 AM
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Agree. Though the results are so far appart. I dont think a full frame will have THAT big of a difference.
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Forum: Photographic Technique
11-06-2018, 10:29 AM
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@Wibbly, haha. I totally agree. But the argument still stays the same even at 140mm ;)
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Forum: Photographic Technique
11-06-2018, 10:18 AM
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@spinno: sorry I did not understand which version you advocate - the one of two images stiched togeather or the version that it is just one image. If you think that it is one image, how do would you achieve the wide angle in the background, despice the subject in the fore-ground. Also see my last responce.
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Forum: Photographic Technique
11-06-2018, 10:05 AM
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biz-engineer,
when I try your method, this is (roughly) what I get (first pic). A nicely separated portrait. BUT: the background does not look like a huge room. It is not wide. I actually need the huge wise space on the right, because I want to use that photo on a website. The space on the right will be filled with text.
The second pic shows how far the background has to be to achieve blurr. (dont know if this is 200mm though).
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Forum: Photographic Technique
11-06-2018, 09:57 AM
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@biz-engineer: I absolutly agree with your accessment. The hair details is so smootly integrated into the background, that it looks like it is a one shot picutre. I also went out and tried out a 70-200 2.8 lens on my Pentax K5-II trying to reproduce that result. I did not succed.
The distance to the subject at 200/2.8 has to be really far AND the distance from the subject to the background the has to be EVEN farther. If this shot is supposed to be taken in such a condition, then the hall that they are standing in must be 200 meters long, which I consider unlikely. This was the exact riddle I started with.
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Forum: Photographic Technique
11-06-2018, 09:10 AM
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Thanks for the quick reply 08amczb. Your answer totally makes sense.
You write it is taken on a grey background. Does it actually make any difference which color the background has? I mean would not it be rather more convenient to use a green background to be able to separate the object from the background more easily? What about a completly white background?
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Forum: Photographic Technique
11-06-2018, 08:34 AM
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Who knows how this kind of pictures are taken?
I found this picture on the web and tried to reproduce the same effect, but I did not manage to do so.
Here the person is shown very sharply infront of a huge blurred horisontal background. Obvioiusly the lens has to be quite wide (at least 50mm or less) to capture a person in that proportion. But the wider the lens I use, the more the blurr factor of the background dissolves.
At first I thought that this example is actually a crop from an even bigger one. But now I rather believe that this was done by some technique, that combines two pictutes in some way. Further more, if you look at the edges of the person, it looks like it organicaly belongs there, it does not look like it was cut out of some other picture and pasted into that background.
Cheers
MP
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Forum: Pentax KP
08-06-2017, 02:06 AM
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That is interesting. Is there a link to where to purchase that software?
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Forum: Pentax KP
07-20-2017, 12:55 AM
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Thanks for your replies gents.
After reading you comments I decided NOT to buy the KP.
Although the new sensor is REALLY an attractive proposition I wish to have the tethering option too much and I miss it in the KP. I suppose my expectation to have tethering as an option in the price range of a KP is not justifiable. Pentax seems to use this option to up-sale to the high end cameras like K1 and 645Z. Fair enough. I even would not mind to pay a higher price for tethering, though K1 and 645z literally are just too heavy for me.
MP
P.S.: Interestingly I do not mind at all to have a decreased battery capacity. The lack of LCD is really a bummer though.
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Forum: Pentax KP
07-19-2017, 06:50 AM
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Hi all,
I am considering to swap my K5ii for the new KP and I dont know if it is worth it.
I own a K5-ii and a CanonG16 and use them strictly for devided purposes.
If I I do anything where I dont want to carry around HEAVY gear I go for my Canon PowerShot G16. Its good enough for a quick shot and for social activity situations. Though for serious portraits, product fotography, some simple reproduction work and casual wedding fotography I take my K5ii (77mm, 50mm, 28mm). I hate landscapes and I love shooting in low light. I also use two YongNuo flashes with my K5ii.
The K5-ii: my issues
I love my K5ii because it is so compact and still it is a full featured DSLR. It has an AMAZING haptic experience, it really feels great holding it in my hand.
The menue design is lovely. The shutter sound - adorable. The metalic battery door is so elaborate. Such a small detail that gives me a smile every time I open it. The dials feel like they are "made to be turned". Imho K5ii is made for people who "feel" photography. And I am one of those.
But the two major issues I have with K5ii are:- The Autofocus: I quite often see pictures coming from my K5ii that miss the sharpness for some reason. It sometimes is slitghtly off. I attribute it to the AF.
- The Tethering: I really miss a native wired tethering solution for my K5ii. I tried once the hack tool pktether, but it does not work really well with the K5ii.
- The wireless flashing (minor): Sometimes when I shoot with YongNuo flashes (using a remote controller) they fail. (it might be the YN systems fault, though Canon users dont report these issues)
- The shutter: In some situations the shutter sound is too loud on the K5ii. I miss an option to mute it.
KP: the reasons
Now, in some "Why I will buy KP"-Thread I read that KP will support wired thethering like Pentax does with 645Z. Is that true? Did anyone try it out with his KP?In some "Why I wont buy KP"-Theread I read that KP AutoFocus is still below par compared to other brands (Canikon?, Fujitsu?). Is that true?
I really digg the new KP design and the replaceble handles. Oh those dials inherited from the K1 are great. This will give an even bigger "feel" phtography experience. I also love the fact, that KP pretty much the same weight as the K5ii. I miss a bit the fact that KP has only one SD slot.
Should I think of an upgrade? :cool:
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Forum: Photographic Technique
10-29-2015, 07:46 AM
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Forum: Photographic Technique
10-29-2015, 06:15 AM
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@robjmitchell, I dont shoot in "green" mode. :-). Mostly I shoot in P mode, since I consider myself a beginner. I tried out to play with shutterspeeds in M mode. But as much as I can remember my camera does not trigger flash with shutter-modes faster than 1/160. I will look out for those "slow speed sync" modes.
I want to shoot a very badly lit candle-light party and my problem (with the last party) was that when I use flash my pictures look like daylight. I totally lose the atmosphere.
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Forum: Photographic Technique
10-29-2015, 05:39 AM
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@mcgregni, thanks for the reply.
Yes by beneath I mean anything faster than 1/160 (thus 1/180 - 1/4000 is not possible). I will try your suggestions and will be glad to find out that my K5-II does *not* limit the flash triggering on faster speeds. That would be amazing.
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Forum: Photographic Technique
10-29-2015, 04:08 AM
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@clackers, I am not sure I understand what you mean. I have a Metz 58 AF2 Flash. I dont think this is the problem.
The problem is that my K5-II does not trigger the flash if you set the shutter beneath 1/160th. I also have YN triggers and a YN flash. Same there. Flash does not fire beneath 1/160th, which I think is a camera issue.
Am I doing something wrong???
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Forum: Photographic Technique
10-29-2015, 02:37 AM
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@Digitalis, with my K5-II and my flash I can only drag the sutter down to 1/160th. Beneath 1/160th flash does not fire. :)
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Forum: Photographic Technique
10-26-2015, 01:28 PM
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Great example @aleonix3. Its a nice shot, but can you see how the background is too bright, or lets say not dark enough. Its not really relevant what happens behind the two women. Interestingly the room on that picture is way bigger than the room on the pictures I posted. And still the background is relatively brighter than on my example pics.
So yeh I am after THAT effect. Nicely lit foreground (with a flash, but without looking flashed) and a relatively dark background.
P.S. Thanks so much for caring for my issue
P.P.S. Notice how the skin tone on your picture is more white (because of the flash). Strangely the skin tone on my pics appears a bit more reddisch/yellowish.
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