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Forum: Pentax News and Rumors
01-11-2024, 06:15 AM
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Yep now the remaining frame counter is working again
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Forum: Pentax News and Rumors
12-11-2023, 10:07 AM
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I meant the lens code which is in the lens (ep)ROM and tells the camera what version it is and a lot more parameters 😀 By swapping the lens code from a HD macro lens to a SMC lens the later mimics to be a HD lens en hence the focuslimiter could be available on your smc version lenses
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Forum: Pentax News and Rumors
12-11-2023, 09:11 AM
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No it does not work on the smc DA 35macro2.8 limited 😢
Wonder if we update the lens code from SMC to the HD version it should work 😜
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
07-12-2022, 09:37 AM
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The New HD77 is the one to go.
Rationals the coating is much better preventing flat and low contrast in backlight situations I sold my mij SMC 77 version after shooting side by side with the HD version. The new coating did not solve the purplefringe though 😟
If you are really in to portraiture and are willing to carry around a very heavy lens then you could consider the hd85 but combine it with a K1.
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Forum: General Photography
10-05-2021, 08:23 AM
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Beside a Pentax K1 I also use a Panasonic G9. The viewfinder of the G9 is larger than the one in my K1. When the resolutions of the viewfinder increases above the 5MPix for me the experience will be equal to a optical finder.
Mirrorless bodies are cheaper to make, hence the margin for the manufacturer will rise what is needed in a shrinking market.
So Pentax will soon have 100% marketshare in the DSLR market, what is nice but new bodies will be relatively expensive compared to mirrorless. I am still a happy user of Pentax though 😀
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
08-23-2018, 11:58 AM
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actually it is!
if you remove the lens and keep the body with the prism facing down you see a gray soft material where the mirror lands, a little bit lower you see the release of the screen frame, it is the central shiny metal pice.
You can move this pice with a finger nail toward the lens mouth, the frame will release and you can remove the screen, with reassembly mind that the matte side should face the prism :-) succes
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Forum: Monthly Photo Contests
06-09-2018, 02:53 AM
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I would like to nominate this photo
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
02-01-2018, 12:55 PM
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Hi, Indeed after removing the tap the Canon screens fit, although the short side of the screen is a little smaller than the K1 it is not a problem since the supporting frame opening is smaller, so it will not drop out :-)
The sand down has nothing to do with source of the screen, but with the necessary accuracy difference between a screen pure for judging composition and dept of field, or a screen for manual focussing.
When using AF less accuracy is sufficient, hence Pentax "calibrates" with shims were the step size is too big for accurate manual focussing. I suspect that this is also the reason Pentax does not offer splits screens and micro prism them self.
Maybe you are lucky and the step size of the shims matches beter than mine :-)
So it is up to you which route to take, in both cases one has to play around with shims.
Gert Jan
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
12-30-2016, 01:27 AM
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Hi Steve,
I agree that image at the sensor is leading, so first I calibrated my PDFA with micro adjustment option form the menu, against the sensor ;) check on a larger screen at 100% So all of them are matching.
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
12-28-2016, 03:22 AM
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Yes it works that is not touched :-)
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
12-28-2016, 01:29 AM
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Hi Steve,
The pixel density on a K1 is less than on a K3 (25MP) vs 15MP on aps-c, hence the focussing is "less critical" as on a K3, I compared all options and would say that PDAF is the most accurate as long as you and the camera agree on where to focus :), imagine a tree with branches and small twigs, the AF-sensor selected is bigger that the twig and it is unclear which twig it will focus on to, now the micro prisms come in handy, because they show where the AF focused, and give you the opportunity to refocus.
So for me the focussing-aids on the screen are mainly an optical feedback of what the AF did :) If one works from tripod the 10x magnification in live view does the same trick of optical feedback, but for portraits and documentary this is way to slow.
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
12-27-2016, 03:13 PM
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I updated the opening post with the latest insights :-) see below
UPDATE:
After some days of use I discovered that the focussing was not correct, this was caused by a too small distance between lens and screen, hence I had to bring the screen a little up. In the body is a brass shim (metal frame) which can be removed too, one can replace this with a thinner one, or as I did, grind it back to the desired thickness.
However it is important that the thickness is uniform across the frame, in order to do so I glued it on a flat piece of wood and then gently grind it back. see the last picture.
The brass shim is just visible, totally on top of the picture with the K1 Body, Releasing the shim is done with the most right side release.
The focus conformation of the AF now matches the screen.
Second update I changed the splitscreen for a microprisma screen that serve my needs better. (Canon Ec-A)
This set up is now used for a couple of shoots and I am 100% happy with it.
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
11-20-2016, 01:40 PM
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I can always ask, but I have to send my camera in, then it is a different story with the original screen you don't notice the offset, with the modified Canon screen they do not have to support it... and second it might take a long time.
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
11-20-2016, 08:46 AM
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Ok here I am back,
I did a check with a FA 77mm 1.8 limited.
There is 1% front focus hence I need a thinner brass sim than the one that came with my copy of the K1. Removing the sim (0.45mm) result in a back focus of 2.15% so the sim needs to be (2.15/1+2.15)*0.45 = 0.307mm the sims normally comes in steps of 0.05 so the nearest sim would be 0.3mm. The question is if Pentax will provide those, or do i have to look for some other material and cut it my self from plastic.
The focus indication based on PDAF is most likely more selective than the focus screen. My only problem with it is that the actual position is not that clear, so the focus aid on the screen tells me if the central AF point sees the same as I do :-) with small objects the af point could look just to another object for instance you think you focus on an eye, but the central AF pint points at the eyebrow, this is directly visible on a screen with focus aids. So for me it is more an extra conformance that i focus on the right thing. It is a pity that there is no Canon screen available with both microprism and splitscreen.
The brightness of this screen is 1/3 stop less.
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
11-19-2016, 03:03 PM
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The thickness is not that important as long as the screen is pressed upwards in the direction of the prism, the top of the screen is the place were it should be sharp, thicker or thinner is compensated by the springs in the screen frame. My K1 proved to be accurate, pff With my K3 I had to remove the metal sims, form the body, to get it right.
This was a body problem, not a screen problem. Most people rely on the AF and use the (standaard) screen only for composition and to judge the bokeh, with the standaard screen a small offset will not be noticed, but with a screen with focussing aids it is direct visible.
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
11-19-2016, 09:13 AM
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Of cause that was the first thing I tried, because I do have a LX, but those screens are smaller 35.2mm x 25mm and just drops out of the frame, so this is not recommended :-)
Funny I always, thought the LX had a 100% coverage, but that can't be true, with a width less than 36mm.
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
11-19-2016, 07:35 AM
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Hello everybody,
In recent years with APS-C bodies (K7 - K3) I used an split image screen from focusscreen.com actually a Nikon K3 screen sized back to APS-C
But for the K1 nothing is available yet.
The screens of the K1 are replaceable similar to the APS-C series.
The Pentax's screen is really large 26mm x 38.25mm so my "raw" material needs to be as large as possible :) the best candidate are the screens for the Canon 1D series.
I ordered a original Canon Ec-B screen (quiet affordable) and did a small modification, see the pictures below for a small tutorial.
UPDATE:
After some days of use I discovered that the focussing was not correct, (front focus) this was caused by a too small distance between lens and screen, hence I had to bring the screen a little up. In the body is a brass shim (metal frame) which can be removed too, one can replace this with a thinner one, or as I did, grind it back to the desired thickness.
However it is important that the thickness is uniform across the frame, in order to do so I glued it on a flat piece of wood and then gently grind it back. see the last picture.
The brass shim is just visible, totally on top of the picture with the K1 Body, Releasing the shim is done with the most right side release.
The focus conformation of the AF now matches the screen.
Second update I changed the splitscreen for a microprisma screen that serve my needs better. (Canon Ec-A)
This set up is now used for a couple of shoots and I am 100% happy with it.
Disclaimer: modifications are at your own risk.
Happy snapping Gert Jan
My pictures GJ B&W | Flickr |
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Forum: Pentax Forums Giveaways
12-13-2014, 03:24 PM
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That's the right spirit :-)
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Forum: Pentax Forums Giveaways
12-10-2014, 01:20 AM
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I would love to win a FA31mm 1.8 and I am looking forward to click it on a PENTAX Full Frame to enjoy it's full potential :)
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Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II
08-17-2013, 09:26 AM
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Hi I had the same problem with my K5, in the beginning it happens sometimes but it got worser and worser, (after about a year and 15.000 clicks) my local camera shop send it in to PENTAX and after 6 weeks :-( I got a brand new K5 body :-) tip write a letter were you explain what happens and refer to the mirror flops issue.
Succes
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