Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom
06-21-2011, 03:25 PM
|
|
Thanks for the responses. I'm seeing that such a device doesn't exist, but $0.22/slide is better than the $0.32 we were seeing this weekend.
I'm wondering, though, if there's a DIY way to get a slide projector to feed a scanner. Certainly not something my folks would want to attempt, but it seems like they can't be the only people to ever encounter this issue. Or are slide carousels too problematic to bother with?
|
Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom
06-21-2011, 04:51 AM
|
|
I was visiting my folks for Fathers Day. My dad (in his mid 80s) asked me how to go about scanning about 3000 slides to CD/DVD/HDD. All of the slides are sorted and in Kodak 140 carousels. I pointed him to some scanning services, but 1) the going price seems to be $.30+/slide, which would cost about $1000, and 2) they want the slides removed from the carousel first.
So, I'm thinking that this is a process that should be automated somehow. Someone must have a carousel-fed feeder to a slide scanner that would allow the user to place the carousel in the feeder and have it cycle through all the slides. This way, they could save some money and not have to remove all the slides, and save each carousel to a new disk or folder to keep them categorized. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find such a device. Has anyone ever encountered a carousel slide feeder that 1) costs substantially less than $1000 and 2) is easy enough to operate that my Dad can figure it out?
|
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
11-28-2010, 08:33 AM
|
|
Update - seller has agreed to refund purchase price (less shipping). Honest mistake.
I've gotten the aperture assembly out of the lens. Lowell was right - stamped pins in the blades, and some are bent. Rather than try to get the thing to work correctly, I'm considering reassembling the lens without the blades and just shooting wide open all the time. Has anyone tried this before with decent results?
|
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
11-22-2010, 05:31 AM
|
|
Thanks for the responses. I checked the link that Thazoo posted, and it looked promising. The lens was fairly easy to disassemble, but the aperture assembly itself isn't very accessible (located at the end of a long tube which seems welded on.
The problem is that about 3 or 4 of the aperture blades have become dislodged from their pivot points. If you look at the last photo, you can see the pins which hold in the blades as those small circles around the edge of the ring. They're not quite as bad as Lowell said - there is a pin so they're not simply punched into the ring - but they're become completely dislodged. How this occurred is quite a mystery - there is no sign of prior disassembly of this lens, nor is there any blemish on the exterior that would show the cause of enough trauma to knock these things loose. At any rate, it's not a simple DIY repair.
Once I get the lens back together, I'll contact the seller and wee what he says. The lens might produce some interesting bokeh, but I don't think it will be very useful for shooting birds.
|
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
11-21-2010, 07:17 AM
|
|
Lucky me! I was the lone bidder on a Vemar 400mm f6.3 m42 lens on eBay. Got it for under $10. The seller had a > 99.5 % feedback with over 3000 transactions. The lens arrived yesterday.
The lens has a pair of aperture rings, and I don't think they're working correctly.
First of all, I can't open the lens beyond f8. At this setting, I can turn the outer aperture ring (it clicks at each stop), but looking in the lens, nothing moves. If I stop down to f32 with the inner ring, the rings are coupled and the outer ring moves, also. This does close the blades (more on this later). When both rings are set to f32, the inner ring turns and moves the blades, but doesn't click.
What appears even worse are the blades themselves. Here's a photo of the lens wide open:
Note the strange helix formation - hard to see in the photo, but it seems that this thing is on a three dimensional axis. And things don't look much better when the lens is stopped to f22:
As for the blades themselves, do they look bent?
So, am I correct in supposing this aperture ring is broken? Would it be at all worthwhile to attempt to fix this myself? I'm reluctant to return the lens, as the shipping cost would probably be the same or more than I actually spent on the thing, and the glass looks clean.
Thanks for any help.
|
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
03-15-2010, 04:11 AM
|
|
If you're shooting in RAW, you can't be shooting in monochrome. The RAW data is the actual data coming out of the RGB sensor. Setting the camera to B&W, sepia, etc. are simply instructions for the camera toi follow when it is performing its internal RAW to JPG conversion. But in any event, your image is being collected on a color sensor, and the RAW file is a reflection of that.
|
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
03-08-2010, 05:01 PM
|
|
Then again, this flash and its manual predate any Pentax dSLRs. I was certain I was able to adjust the flash output using a fully manual lens on my K10D, even though the concept of "automatic exposure" and manual lenses on this camera are at odds.
I tried a bit of an experiment: K10D, Sigma M28/f2.8 manual lens, AF200s flash. Obviously, with a full manual lens I had to set the K10D to M, set shutter speed to 180, ISO to 100, and set aperture to value mentioned on the flash chart (about 1m from subject, so f18). The flash fired at what I presume to be full power. It overexposed the subject by about 1.5 stops - or about a half stop more than what I would expect from the camera asking it to meter in daylight using the green button.
When using the lens in "red" or "green" modes, however, setting the aperture to the value marked on the chart resulted in severely underexposed photos. After some playing around, I realized that the K10D is attempting to set the flash exposure using the sensor on the flash, but apparently with the manual lens wide open. Even so, the amount of underexposure was about a full stop different between the "red" and the "green" mode. With the same subject about 1 meter away, I discovered through trial and error that I needed f stops of 5.6 and 4 for correct exposure. IOW, about 1/4 and 1/8 of full power.
The automatic "red" and "green" modes expose at roughly 1/2 and 1/4 power on an AF lens in Av mode. I presume this would also be true with M42 manual lenses as well. So the AF200S provides three power levels for all lenses on a K10D.
|
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
03-08-2010, 06:15 AM
|
|
Correction - I have an AF200S I've been experimenting with. It has three flash levels - 1/4, 1/2, and full/auto. Has a nice built in scale for ISO/distance/aperture for all 3 settings, so it behaves well with manual lenses. No tilt or swivel, though. I've just ordered some cheap radio triggers off eBay to try to use it off camera.
|
Forum: Lens Clubs
02-26-2010, 05:14 AM
|
|
Even if you found another lens by the same manufacturer, I doubt it would have the same cachet as a Sears branded lens. Nothing quite like showing up at photo club night with tack sharp pics displaying great color and interesting bokeh, then having one of the checkbook guys ask what lens you used.
Javier, I really like your photos with the 28mm/f2.8. I should get one. I already have that distance covered by a Sigma MiniWide II and an East German made Pentacon m42 lens, but I'm not convinced I like the Sigma's color, and the Pentacon would flare even at midnight during a total eclipse.
|
Forum: Lens Clubs
02-24-2010, 05:16 AM
|
|
Sears 50/1.7 on Pentax K10D - some snow pics from a couple of weeks ago: |
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
02-23-2010, 06:21 AM
|
|
I have a Helios 44M-4. Picked it up along with a Pentacon (East German) 28mm/2.8 and a Zenit 35mm camera at a yard sale for $5. The Pentacon had the A/M switch; the Helios did not. With no modification, the Helios could only be used wide open. But the Q-tip fix mentioned in the link above was simple, quick, and effective, and can just as easily be undone if you ever want to use the lens with a film camera.
The "fix" is simple. Take a Q-tip (preferably plastic stemmed) and cut a length of about 1/4 inch from the stem. Locate the aperture pin on the lens mount*. Remove the 4 screws holding the metal plate on the mount. Use the cut portion of the Q-tip as a sheath around the aperture pin (it should just fit around the tip of the pin), then replace the metal plate. The increased diameter of the Q-tip is enough to keep the aperture pin depressed inside the plate.
*To find the aperture pin, turn the aperture ring to the narrowest aperture. If the lens stops down as you do this, you don't need the fix. If the lens doesn't stop down, press any protruding pins until you find the one that makes the aperture blades move.
|
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
01-27-2010, 05:19 AM
|
|
To be fair, the 6-8 week repair time was due to waiting for a parts shipment from Japan for a discontinued model (K10D). When I had to send my camera back a second time, the turnaround was more like 2 weeks.
Other than their lack of communication (they're helpful if you contact them, but CRIS will never initiate any contact with you), CRIS is a decent outfit for warranty service. But it seems ANY out-of-warranty repair is priced at the exact same price as purchasing a used or refurbished unit. Knowing this ahead of time might influence your decision to send a unit for out-of-warranty repair.
|
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
01-15-2010, 05:14 AM
|
|
I think you've answered your own question there. Here in the US, I severely doubt that you'd get your camera back from repair in less than 6 weeks (and that's without international shipping). And the repair price was about the same as buying a refurbished K10d elsewhere.
Anyone in Oz selling a refurbished K10d? Here in the US you can find them at bestbuy.com, but I don't know if they ship outside the US.
|
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
01-13-2010, 05:10 AM
|
|
I recently posted about my repair experience here. Eventually, I received my K10D back in working order. Not sure I wouldn't opt for replacing with a refurbished model next time, though (cost would be nearly the same, and I'd have the camera several weeks sooner).
|
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
12-17-2009, 05:33 PM
|
|
Here's a... ahem... "thrifty" way to get started with macro photography.
Find 1 or 2 cheap MF primes in the 28mm to 55mm range. While a K-mount or even M42 mount would be nice, it doesn't make much difference since you'll be using the filter threads instead.
Then visit eBay and find a cheap Asian K-mount reversing ring that matches the filter size on your lens.
I found an old Zenit 35mm camera, with Helos 44-M-4 58mm and Pentacon 28mm lenses, for a total of $5 at a yard sale last summer. I spent about $6 on the reversing ring on eBay. It took me a while to get the hang of it, but I was able to shoot this handheld with the 44-M-4 : |
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
12-11-2009, 05:38 AM
|
|
As promised, I'm following up on my K10D repair experience. To remind everyone: At first, I sent the camera to CRIS and had to initiate all contact myself (they never acknowledged receipt, gave me work order number, etc. until I called them). The camera had the main PCB replaced and was given a thorough cleaning, yet when I received the camera the AF still couldn't lock. This was the status after my initial post.
After contacting CRIS, they were quite apologetic. They emailed a prepaid UPS shipping label, so I repacked the camera and shipped it with a note on how to reproduce the problem. It seemed pretty simple - I tried 4 different lenses (two DA18-55's, a DA 55-300, and a 3rd party 28-90) with two different batteries and different SD cards, and could not focus on anything. After two weeks, no word from CRIS, so I called them. The customer service rep said she had a note from the technician, saying to call me (they why didn't they?). Later that day the tech called me and said he could not reproduce the problem - he received focus confirmation in every test he performed. After some back and forth, we decided to just return the camera to me to see what happened.
The camera arrived on Wednesday. I unpacked it and tried again - this time it worked. I brought it along last night to my daughter's HS Chorus concert, and AF worked as well as could be expected in a difficult lighting environment.
So, what went wrong? I suppose user error could have been a problem when I received the camera the first time - I did try to use the AF indoors in late afternoon, and it's possible the batteries were low (although I keep one in the charger), but I tried 4 lenses and even two users (my wife confirmed the problem with AF). I'm doubting a dirty or bad contact since they had just cleaned the camera. But apparently when the camera arrived in AZ for the second time, it began working. Maybe the PCB "settled" a bit in shipping?
At any rate, I now have a working K10D. As for rating CRIS, I have to rate the experience a qualified success. On the downside, out-of-warranty repairs are expensive, can be slow (original repair had to wait weeks for a shipment of parts), and they are quite bad with communication. On the up side, whenever I called I was always able to speak to someone fairly quickly, the reps were always pleasant and helpful, they were quite receptive when I was not satisfied the first time and (bottom line) my camera is working again.
|
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
11-12-2009, 06:13 PM
|
|
I just thought I'd log my current adventure with CRIS, the Pentax USA Authorized service agent.
In September, the auto-focus on my 18 month old K10D decided it no longer wanted to work. I contacted Pentax, and was instructed to send the unit to CRIS in Chandler, AZ. On October 5 I sent my camera via US Mail First Class, insured.
After a week and a half, of hearing nothing from them, I called CRIS and was told they received the camera, and was given a work order number and an estimate to clean the camera, replace the main circuit board, and return the camera to factory specs, The price was within $10 of purchasing a refurbished unit from Best Buy, but since I knew the history of my camera (no rough usage or problems of any kind until this AF issue), I decided to authorize the repair.
I called a week later to inquire about the camera, since CRIS had never contacted me. I was told that they were waiting on a shipment of parts from Pentax, Japan. Since then I had been calling weekly for a status report about my camera repair. This week I was told it had been repaired and shipped, a mere six weeks after I sent it to them.
The camera arrived today. Apparently it had been cleaned well (viewfinder was nice and clear), and restored to the factory settings. However, after trying with 4 different AF lenses, two memory cards, and two batteries, the auto-focus problem is still there. I called CRIS to report the issue, and was told they would be emailing me a prepaid return shipping label tonight. I'm still waiting for it.
As others have asked about Pentax US service in the past, I thought I'd pass this along. I'll follow up as the situation develops. I'm still hoping for a positive resolution, however I'm disappointed to have to go without my camera for so long.
TL;DR - Sent camera to CRIS. All contact originated from my end (never received written estimate, email, or phone call). Camera returned 6 weeks later - original issue never repaired or apparently tested.
|
Forum: Sold Items
10-13-2009, 02:46 PM
|
|
|
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
08-27-2009, 04:17 AM
|
|
Thanks for the advice. It sounds as if the solutions are either a) grind it down to fit or b) list it on the marketplace here. I'll see how my wife likes the one on my k10d before I decide which way to go.
|
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
08-24-2009, 03:42 PM
|
|
Has anyone successfully attached the KPS 1.3X magnifying eyepiece to their k100d?
After reading several reviews of the KPS (and not finding the Pentax OME-53 in stock anywhere), I decided to order a couple off of eBay - one for my k10d and one for my wife's k100d. It fits my k10d fine, but none of the attachments seems to fit on the k100d. Is there some special track to fitting the eyepiece on the k100d, or do I have to perform some minor modification to the eyepiece? Or should I send it back?
|
Forum: Sold Items
08-12-2009, 04:17 AM
|
|
|
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
04-21-2009, 07:43 AM
|
|
Yes, there's more than one way to skin a cat.
Assuming equivalent IQ in these two lenses, the DA 55-300 offers the benefits of:
1) Zoom capabilities (down to 55, with IQ equivalent to many primes)
2) Auto-focus w/ quick adjust
3) Av and Tv modes and proper metering (does the Vivitar have an 'A' setting?)
While the a MF 400/5.6 lens like the Vivitar offers:
1) more reach (400mm vs 300mm)
2) less money
Either choice would be a nice addition to the OP's current lenses, and either would cost less than those on his wish list.
|
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
04-21-2009, 05:32 AM
|
|
Have you considered the DA 55-300? IQ is incredible for a lens in that focal range at that price point (about $300 new):
cropped from a distant tree: |
Forum: Lens Clubs
04-20-2009, 03:04 PM
|
|
My first post to the forum (other than the marketplace)! I bought a k10d as my first-ever SLR just about a year ago, and a Sears 50/1.7 a few months later. I took it to the local arboretum to teach myself about aperture and depth of field, and came up with this:
Then in February, I went to take documentary photos at a race. I was on crutches at the time after foot surgery, so instead of carrying my whole bag I only brought two lenses - the Sears 50/1.7 and a Penneys 135/2.8. This photo essay is the result. Everything pre- and post-race is the Sears, while the runner closeups are with the Penneys lens. Krispy Kreme Challenge
Please feel free to C&C - I'm still trying to learn this stuff.
Dave
|
Forum: Sold Items
02-23-2009, 03:24 PM
|
|
|