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Forum: Monthly Photo Contests
05-03-2012, 02:29 PM
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Taken in Eastern Oregon, from the top of a peak, while a thunderstorm was raging about 25 miles away.
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Forum: Pentax News and Rumors
02-03-2012, 12:28 AM
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If anything, rather than buying into a new system and getting a K mount mirrorless with no VF, for a marginally smaller/lighter body, they would probably buy a smaller entry-level DSLR from the brand they already use. Not only would they be able to use their current lenses, they'll also have a built-in VF, a better ergonomic design, and a system they're accustomed to.
Or, they would just go for a much smaller mirrorless system. I suspect, based on the parameters of your hypothetical question, this would be the actual result of their decision.
The K-01 seems to ditch most of the advantages of the SLR, while capitalizing on few of the advantages of mirrorless.
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Forum: Pentax Camera and Field Accessories
01-23-2012, 01:37 PM
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I know I'm a little late, but I was able to get 100% coverage of slides or negatives with my K-7 using the bellows and slide copier unmodified. I had a Pentax F 35-70mm lens(@70mm) on the auto bellows, and had the slide copier bellows fully extended. I just used an incandescent bulb for the light, but even so, the output was very good, as far as I'm concerned. I use a Plustek 7600i for film now, but I do miss the slide copier setup. It could be a bit of a pain at times, but the output, in my opinion, was about as good as from the scanner. The ability to manually control everything with the DSLR/copier setup was a big plus over the scanner.
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Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom
01-23-2012, 12:02 AM
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I used to own a Pentax Bellows and slide copier setup, which I used with my K-7 to digitize 35mm slides and negatives. I have since sold it, due to selling the K-7 and going all film, and bought a Plustek 7600i. Negative copying was simple and easy, as the setup is meant for both slides and negatives.
The slide/negative copier combo worked really well, and only cost about $300 for the whole thing. The only problem was color negatives. It is fairly hard to invert color negatives and get the colors right. The scratch/dust correction function of scanning software is also nice. Other than that, I would have to say that I preferred the copier to the Plustek. The scans do look good, but using a DSLR takes less time, and is much more controllable than the scanner. I probably couldn't tell the scanned images from the DSLR "copied" images as far as quality was concerned. Also, I don't know how other scanners perform, but the Plustek doesn't handle dense areas of negatives/slides very well, even with it's multi-scan function.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
01-22-2012, 12:59 AM
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I've posted plenty of images before, but the image post function wasn't working for me for some reason. First time I've had a problem.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
01-21-2012, 08:09 PM
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How'd you do that? I tried the insert image function which has always worked for me before, but the image just wouldn't show up.
Edit: Figured it out
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
01-21-2012, 08:35 AM
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Neither can I, but I don't know why.
Edit: Figured it out
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
01-21-2012, 08:29 AM
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Split by voetshy, on Flickr
About a 2 minute exposure at f/22 on Portra 800. I took it with a nearly 100 year old Kodak Brownie No.3 box camera.
Pale by voetshy, on Flickr
LX+50mm 1.2+Rollei Retro 80s developed in 1:25 Rodinal.
Bonnie "Prince" Billy by voetshy, on Flickr
Fuji DL-300 PnS+Provia 400x
Edit: For some reason, when I try to post images as images it doesn't work, so I just posted the urls. If anyone has an idea why I'd be glad to hear it.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
10-12-2011, 11:32 PM
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Stare by voetshy, on Flickr
Taken during Occupy Chicago protests on October 10th. There's a guy getting arrested for assaulting an officer in the background.
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Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom
10-11-2011, 12:03 AM
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I've had mixed results with 800Z, but they have mostly been good. I always shoot it at 800, and most of the time the film is properly exposed out of my LXs. Sometimes it does get very grainy to the point of almost being unusable though. Don't ask me why. Could be age/handling of the film or something. Like I said though most of the time it comes out great for me at 800. Example:
Barnstormers 3 - Kalyx Center by voetshy, on Flickr
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
10-06-2011, 09:33 AM
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No, they're star trails. They probably look longer than the actually are because it's a heavy crop. The original picture was in portrait orientation, but I cropped horizontally from the middle of the image.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
10-04-2011, 04:55 PM
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Strikes by voetshy, on Flickr
Taken form the top of a mountain about 30 miles from the storm. Pentax LX, FA 31mm Ltd., Fuji Velvia 100F, about a 20 minute exposure.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
06-25-2011, 11:43 AM
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I agree with nesster. Looks like a long enough exposure to allow some blurring, but not long enough to render them a "mist", as a much longer exposure would. In the stairway image from the top of the stairs it looks like the motion of the people was quite variable.
For your purposes I would suggest trying out as many shutter speeds as possible. Maybe some multiple exposures too. Might as well try both filters too, even if it means vignetting. You can always crop them out.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
06-10-2011, 07:14 PM
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Definitely not an LX. I don't know what it is, but like you said, the end isn't the right shape.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
05-22-2011, 12:10 PM
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I have 3 LX bodies that I keep loaded with different films at any given time. I also have a Fujifilm DL-300.
I regularly use them all.
I'd also love an M mount rangefinder and a MF body, but those'll have to wait, and the LXs are plenty capable.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
05-19-2011, 08:12 PM
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Any film camera with easy full manual control would work well. I would suggest just buying a roll or two of each IR film you can get a hold of to see what you like. You'll need at least a dark red filter, but you'll get more dramatic results with a 720nm filter when using true IR films. A good 720 filter costs a fair amount but you could offset that cost by buying a cheaper body.
There is some good info to be found on exposure for various IR films (digitaltruth has a side by side comparison of most available IR films). IR light is hard to judge with a normal meter so you'll pelrobably want to bracket.
I've done a fair amount of IR film photography over the past year and I really enjoy it, although it takes a different sort of visualization than normal B&W photography.
I personally use a Pentax LX and generally just let it auto-expose, even with a 720nm filter. It works quite well even though the filter is nearly opaque.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
05-01-2011, 06:08 PM
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I used a Pentax Auto Bellows K with a Pentax Slide Copier and K-7 to digitize thousands of slides and negatives. I used an F 35-70mm lens which allowed for copying the full film frame with full extension of the slide copier bellows. It worked very well, although color negatives are are tricky to invert. For black and white negs and slide film, it worked very well.
Not exactly what you asked, but it's a viable alternative to using a scanner and the output was great.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
05-01-2011, 05:22 PM
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I only shoot film these days. I've had a K10D and K-7, but sold both due to hardly using either. My K-7 was relegated to slide and negative digitizing duty before I sold it. Now I use 3 LXs and a cheap P&S, with B&W and slide primarily.
For me film is much more rewarding, both when it comes to quality of results, and enjoyment of the photographing experience. The way I take pictures is more hindered than helped by an LCD and cost isn't too different between digital and film, all things considered.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
03-27-2011, 04:07 AM
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Another route to go if you're shooting a lot of film, and find a few you like, would be to buy the film you like in 100' rolls and a bulk loader and roll your own. It's cheap, easy, and is environmentally friendly. Or at least more friendly.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
03-19-2011, 12:21 AM
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Last time I checked ebay there was a Grip A for sale. I got one about six months ago and finally got around to carving it a few weeks ago. It's a pain to get it perfectly shaped, but once you do it is great, and much better than the grip B, in my opinion. The grip B isn't big enough for my hands, although it is much better than no grip, but the grip A is perfect(after about 3 days of whittling whenever I had the chance).
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
03-17-2011, 11:52 AM
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Me too, especially since they sell for about half of what that one goes for.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
03-17-2011, 01:13 AM
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It really is a pleasure to use. I'm waiting for my 3rd to arrive on Friday :) Unfortunately it cost a bit more than yours.
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Forum: Pentax Camera and Field Accessories
03-10-2011, 02:25 AM
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Thanks a lot. That answers everything. I can't wait to get it all working, and I'll be sure to post the results, when the time comes.
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Forum: Pentax Camera and Field Accessories
03-08-2011, 03:11 AM
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I got a bulk back for my LX a few weeks ago, with the intention of primarily using it for making time lapse footage. However, I will need an intervalometer to do so. I'm currently awaiting delivery of a motor drive setup, which I can use as an intervalometer for speeds of 5 to .5 frames per second, but for longer intervals I'm going to need a proper one. I passed on getting the Power Pack M simply because it's too big and not really portable outside of using an AC converter in a car.
I came to the conclusion that adapting a remote cable for the LX motor drive by cutting off the normal shutter release button mechanism and replacing it with a modern intervalometer(or possibly an older battery powered intervalometer that would have been used with other brand's analog SLRs with motor drives) would be my best bet. Of course, that is based on the assumption that such a thing is possible.
I've got a cheap, off brand, remote shutter release cable for the LX motor drive on the way, which I plan on sacrificing for the project. I also intend to get the simplest intervalometer I can find, and a multimeter to test what each device puts out electrically, and hopefully figure out which contacts do what on each as well.
So, we've now arrived at the question portion of the post for those of you that may have more knowledge than I on the subject. Should it work if I do it right? Is there anything I should change about my plan of attack? Does anyone know what each contact on a remote shutter release for the motor drive LX does? Anyone know of a simple intervalometer which might work best for this project?
I'm determined to get the setup running and would greatly appreciate any help.
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