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Forum: Pentax K-3 & K-3 II 05-21-2014, 12:52 PM  
K3 Crazy Mirror Sickness (Mirror Flapping Lockup) - Report Yours Here!
Posted By unkipunki
Replies: 928
Views: 156,590
At last! Some constructive criticism. ;)
Forum: Pentax K-3 & K-3 II 04-19-2014, 06:00 AM  
K3 Crazy Mirror Sickness (Mirror Flapping Lockup) - Report Yours Here!
Posted By Rite
Replies: 928
Views: 156,590
Your experience of rippling malfunctions (first the shutter motor, then the artifacts, then the loose rubber (seal) is exactly why the K-3 sample that came to me was sent back. It malfunctioned right out of the box, within five minutes producing two instances of uncontrollable shutter. After the 1.03 firmware update, the focus seemed to be losing clarity with fixed primes. With confirmed similar malfunctions found on this forum, there was no other choice but to return it to Ricoh.

If this happens to offend someone, the facts outweigh the sentiments of Pentax brand loyalty, which I have never experienced product failures like this in almost four decades of using that brand.

Best Regards,

Rite ..
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 02-22-2014, 06:18 AM  
LensAlign MkII Focus Calibration System up for loan
Posted By Fat Albert
Replies: 137
Views: 18,658
Received the unit yesterday...should be good to pass it on by next weekend!

May I suggest making the payment as a gift? I did so for A. Yzerr, and this allows for the recipient to receive the full amount sent.
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 01-30-2014, 04:04 PM  
LensAlign MkII Focus Calibration System up for loan
Posted By comprock
Replies: 137
Views: 18,658
How to Use LensAlign MkII Focus Calibration System

Once you've setup the LensAlign kit per its included directions and are saying "now what to yourself", I suggest you try the following steps to fine tune the auto focus of your camera and lens.

Area Setup
* Work in a consistently lit area.
* Got tripod? Put the alignment kit on a counter or table top and then generally aim your camera at it from the tripod.
* No tripod? I found setting the target flat and the camera raised via books on the kitchen counter works. A hard, flat floor works too.
* See Camera and Target Separation for how far apart initially to set your camera and LensAlign target.

Camera and Target Separation
The basic distance formula is focal length x 25, in millimeters. Here's a cheat sheet. It's unknown at this time what the effects are in distances being off. Hopefully, future experimentation will tell us the answer.

Camera Setup
* Put camera into manual mode to ensure a consistent baseline between shoots.
* Turn off image stabilization because it assumes movement and when there's none, it potentially adds it.
* Set your aperture to the smallest f number possible, like 1.8 or 4.0. This is your largest aperture opening.
* Set a low ISO 200 to reduce low-noise grains which interferes with determining focus adjustments.
* Set focus mode AFS or AFC.
* Set center point only focus.
* Set shutter speed to the inverse of your lens. Go a little faster on the shutter speed than the lens to prevent inadvertent camera shake induced fuzziness. E.g. 15mm = 1/15, 18mm = 1/20, 35mm = 1/45, 50/55mm = 1/60, 77mm = 1/90, 135mm = 1/180, etc.
* Increase your ISO or constant lighting if you're not able to correctly set shutter speed.
* If you've got a remote trigger, use that. Otherwise, use a shutter timer to prevent shutter press jiggling.

Ensure Straight and Parallel Targeting
* Aim your camera at the middle, largest dial on the cards left side. If shooting from a long distance, you might try aiming for the right circle as the right-side scale is then in the frame.

* Check that your camera and target are parallel and straight. When looking through the camera viewfinder and target, you should see through the middle and through the back such that you'll see what's behind the back card.
* It might be easier to manually focus to infinity or close, then fine tune manually or via auto-focus while aiming for the center target.
* Take a picture.
* Check the picture at 100% on camera LCD. Viewing on a larger screen is better, but not all have tethering capabilities or some sort to make this easy.
* Make sure the middle, largest dial center is truly parallel. Basically 3 circles evenly within each other, as shown above.
* Repeat above till parallel and straight photos are achieved.

Auto Focus Adjust
The following mentions of auto focus adjust refers to your Pentax camera's AF Fine Adjustment for Apply One. This setting is probably found in settings via Menu, on the last Customizations tab. Within AF Fine Adjustment, select On, and then adjust Apply One as needed per the focusing methods below.

You want to use Apply One because that keeps the settings of the attached lens separate from others. If you used Apply All, then all of your lens would be affected. Further, Apply All and Apply One changes are not culmative. E.g. +10 and +10 doesn't mean +20, but +10. If I understand correctly, Apply One overrides Apply All if there's profile for the attached lens.

Focusing Method 1
Please note that this method only appears easier. It actually involves many trips between camera and computer.

* Take a picture.
* Check the on camera picture at 100%.
* Compare the same top and bottom numbers on the ruler.
* If the same numbers below 0 (Zero) are sharper, then decrement your auto focus adjust like -1, -2, -5, etc. Otherwise, if the numbers above 0 are sharper, then increment your auto focus adjust like +1, +2, +5, etc.

Hopefully, the results are close enough to good enough and no more AF focus adjust is needed. If so, the tweaks should be minor.

Focusing Method 2
Please note that this method only looks more difficult, but significantly reduces trips between camera and computer.

* Set your auto focus adjust to -10
* Take a picture
* Increment your auto focus adjust to -9
* Take a picture
* Repeat increasing auto focus adjust by 1 and taking a picture until you've reached auto focus adjust +10 and have taken 21 photos. Auto focus adjust "0" counts as 1 too!
* Export the photos to your computer
* Start with labeling your first image as -10 and continue all are correctly labeled; -9, -8, …, -1, 0, +1, …, +10.
* View each image and look at the ruler's right side big-sized numbers.

* When the same big-sized numbers seem to be in focus, then look at the medium-sized numbers for same in focus.
* When the same medium-sized numbers seem to be in focus, then look at the smallest-sized numbers for same in focus.
* Flip between images a couple of times to double-check your results and overcome sore eyes.
* When you feel the same top and bottom number sets are in focus equally, set your auto focus adjust to that number.
* Try Real World Adjustments.

Real World Adjustments
* Go take some photographs!
* Shoot from your normal, shorter, and farther distances.
* If there's still question about focus, see Fine Tuning.

Fine Tuning Auto Focus Adjustments
* Like Focusing Method 2, but start 2 stops before and end 2 stops after your current auto focus adjust.
* Change your aperture to your most common, like f5.6 for portraits or f8 for street.

References
* Fixing Front and Back Focus
* AF Microfine adjustment Using a LensAlign or equivalent
* Autofocus Adjustments Hints
* Front or Back Focusing Problems? Free test (Lens Alignment) charts for Pentax, Nikon, Canon, Sony, Olympus.
* LensAlign - See How to use it.

Good luck and happy shooting!
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 01-02-2014, 02:55 AM  
True Beginners - READ THIS / START HERE!
Posted By Heie
Replies: 25
Views: 7,179
If you are BRAND new to photography, this should provide a helpful head start that I wish I had all in one place rather than having to hunt it out when I was starting.

You may or may not have a Pentax DSLR already. At this point in time (January 2014), the only type of DSLR offered by Pentax is an APS-C 'crop sensor'. Crop sensor is a bit smaller than the full frame standard that uses a sensor the same size as traditional 35mm film - don't worry about what that difference means. At this point in time it means nothing to you. Trust me.

Your DSLR was not designed to be used in "Green Mode." Of course it works perfectly well in fully automatic mode, but what I mean by that is it was designed for you, the photographer, to drive it. To change the settings, to envision your photograph before you take it, knowing how to turn the dials and push the buttons to make that vision a reality. It's without any doubt that the tool you have in your hand is capable of nothing short of professional quality images. Nothing short of it at all.

If you really want to take advantage of the incredible capabilities of it as opposed to using it as a very expensive (and bulky) "point and shoot," learn the following:
  • Depth of Field - what it means, and how to manage it and when having more (deeper) depth of field is critical (i.e. landscapes) and when having less (shallower) depth of field is critical (i.e. portraits). Also, how to accomplish less or more depth of field in your photos and what affords depth of field (large aperture on your lens, distance to subject, distance of subject to background, zoom/magnification all contribute to DOF control, with the first one being the most critical).

  • Shutter Speed - yes it has to be balanced for a good exposure, but you also need to learn what it means. Too long a shutter speed and it won't freeze even a person standing there for you frozen for a portrait. Too fast a shutter speed, and you've unnecessarily raised your ISO to poor quality levels.

  • ISO - aka "sensitivity" it allows you to increase or decrease your sensors responsiveness and sensitivity towards light. In poor light (say inside a bar) it becomes your best friend, but at a cost in image quality. Learn what that cost is.

  • Exposure - how the three critical photographic settings (Shutter Speed, Aperture, and ISO) are in a three-way marriage. Think of the three points of a triangle that you need to always balance, as they always change depending on what your priorities are (depth of field, freezing action, etc) and more importantly and much more constraining - the amount (and quality) of light available to you when taking the shot. Here is a great simulator that will help with getting started:

  • Composition - a good photograph is not just taking a good photograph technically, but remember that the "study of light" is also an art. Compositional guides will be your friend until you learn how to break them purposefully because a certain shot/situation calls for it. Such 'rules' or 'guides' are the Rule of Thirds, Negative Space, Golden Spiral, and many others. Here are two guides provided by Pentax Forums that should provide an excellent starting point (and they're quick to read with plenty of examples!):

  • Focal Length - learn what difference focal lengths afford in terms of "Field of View." The lower the number, the wider the focal length, and vice versa. See what this means with regard to different shooting scenarios (indoors, portraits, outdoors, landscapes, far away shots, etc.). If you have a zoom lens (which chances are you do if you bought your DSLR with a kit zoom), so this should be easy to experiment with by just zooming in and out.

  • Your Camera - Read the manual. Read the manual. Read the manual. And then keep it in the bathroom and read it. It will answer many of your questions and teach you what the different dials, buttons, etc are for your camera, and how to change specific settings.

  • Av, Tv, TAv Modes - as soon as you can, get out of green mode. These three modes are "Manual/Automatic" type modes. Meaning you change 2 of the three settings (Shutter Speed, Aperture, ISO), and the third is automatically set by the camera's internal light meter to balance the exposure (the triangle reference above). Av is "Aperture Priority" where you change the aperture and ISO manually and the camera sets the shutter speed. This is arguably the most popular and used camera setting, so it would be a great place to start. I shoot only "M" (full manual where you change all settings manually - nothing is automatic) now, but I started in Av after switching from green mode with a trusty Pentax K-7. Do not wait the six months that I did before going off Green mode - it only delayed my progress that much longer. Initially you won't get good photos - way too dark, way too bright, or way too blurry because the shutter speed will be too slow. That's ok. Don't go back to Green mode.

I could go on, but this seems to be a good starting point, and if you have too much to focus on, then you learn nothing, right? And once you start really learning what these tenets mean, the rest will fall into place through self-discovery.

In the mean time, make sure to always keep your lens cap on when not using your lens, and always use your lens hood. Always. You will see the vast majority of shooters around you will not have a lens hood, or worse, leave it at home or have it reversed in the storage manner while shooting. I don't understand this, but don't fall into that trap. The lens hood not only benefits the quality of your images by cutting glare from the sun (think of your pull-down shade when you are driving - doesn't it make a world of difference when the sun is in your eye?), but it physically protects your lens. Just the other day I was walking around with a camera and I slipped on ice walking down an old staircase. I punched the brick wall with my camera and lens that I had in my right hand (there was no hand rail) and the lens hood was destroyed. The lens and the camera? Perfectly fine.

Hope this helps, and once again, just like I was when I first wondered what the hell I spent so much money on, you have a camera that you do not have any idea how powerful it is. This is not a bad thing nor meant as an insult. But devote the time to unlocking bits of that horse power, and your photography will start to take off, and the investment in such a machine will be more than worth it.

And welcome to the Pentax family ;)

-Heie
Forum: Pentax Price Watch 01-03-2014, 04:16 PM  
K-3 w/grip - w/DA 50 1.8 - w/SDHC card - $1297
Posted By walter
Replies: 52
Views: 7,531
Here's an attached screenshot from my invoice in case anyone still needs it.
Forum: Welcomes and Introductions 12-24-2013, 02:04 PM  
New Enthusiast...and I went Pentax
Posted By Ash
Replies: 21
Views: 1,967
All in good time. Experience and learning will determine the best settings for your intended result. As for 'testing', to be truthful: don't bother. Just shoot real life stuff and have a look at your results afterwards. f/8 is usually a good place to start, and shooting a distant landscape would give you an appreciation of how sharp the camera can render images with that lens. Close ups are harder to determine overall sharpness, but very good for looking at finer details in the centre or slightly off centre.
Forum: Welcomes and Introductions 12-07-2013, 02:58 PM  
New Enthusiast...and I went Pentax
Posted By TER-OR
Replies: 21
Views: 1,967
OK, I'll share one of my more unusual finds. Mantid fly:
Forum: Welcomes and Introductions 12-07-2013, 12:11 AM  
New Enthusiast...and I went Pentax
Posted By Jean Poitiers
Replies: 21
Views: 1,967
Welcome to PF and "bonjour" from France, A.Yzerr ... enjoy the K-3 and go get a D FA 100 f2.8 WR Macro lens ... the best of Pentax, love mine for insects, plus portraits and telephotos ... hope to see an image or two soon ... Salut, J

SMC Pentax-D FA 100mm F2.8 Macro WR Reviews - D FA Prime Lenses - Pentax Lens Reviews & Lens Database

An old shot in the K-r & D FA 100 ...

Forum: Welcomes and Introductions 12-03-2013, 11:30 PM  
Just moved from EOS to Pentax K3
Posted By BretW
Replies: 17
Views: 2,362
Thanks for the warm welcome. This site seems like a great resource.

Before I get to the reason I moved from EOS to Pentax, I need to explain a little about me and how I use my cameras.

I'm a biologist. For dissertation work I studied bats in Central American rain forests. At the same time, my wife studied frogs in the rain forests of Madagascar, and I was lucky enough to tag along with her. So for a number of years I got to spend some nice long periods in some pretty interesting places. That was back in the AF / Film era, and I had an EOS 100mm 2.8 macro, TTL flashgun and a couple L series lenses that together took me from (35mm) 28-200 at f2.8. At that time Canon was alone in providing rapid/silent focusing and good image stabilization (if I'm remembering right) both of which were essential for shooting skittish creatures in low light (the macro auto-focussed noisily, but one tends to focus that one manually anyway). I had an EOS 1N body, and a lesser EOS body so I could have two ISO/lens combinations in ready-to-go-mode. In any case, It was a system I could carry into the field. I kept it all in drybags in my backpack. The system was both durable and versatile.

But it had a built in problem. The raininess (and sweatiness) of the environment meant either 1) risking the equipment by keeping it out and accessible, or 2) missing shots by protecting it. That choice is a no-brainer if you are a sponsored pro. It's tougher if you are a freelancer, but still pretty clear I would think. But I was neither. I was a guy who understood the technical aspects of photography well (I learned on fully the manual Canon F1) and had a reasonable eye, but what I had that was most photographically special was a relationship with the forest (and other researchers who knew the forest) and that put me face to face with extraordinary creatures on a regular basis. I wasn't making money from photography, so I protected my equipment out of necessity, since I had no money to replace it. I got a lot of shots, but missed a large number as well, sometimes because there was no time to un-bag my gear, and sometimes because it was too wet to shoot at all.

In the end, I was able to keep my equipment alive well in central america, where I was able to get my gear into a dry environment on a regular basis. But my wife's remote site in Madagascar was just too damp--several months without a dry room and all my lovely lenses were crippled by fungus. Painful to even think about it.

Since grad school, I have not spent much time working in the field. I've been teaching and raising kids instead, so my wife and I bought an EOS 20D and a nice-ish 17-85 lens, but have not otherwise invested in camera gear. This past summer, however, my family went on a trip to Ecuador in preparation for my wife and I to take students there in future classes. We borrowed my father in-law's new EOS Rebel (since it had video capacity and took SD cards), and shooting with it I began to see just how digital photography has changed over the last decade. It became instantly obvious, for example, that ISO is now on a par with shutter speed and aperture as a setting since 1) it can be reset for every shot, and 2) sensors are now fine-grained enough that higher ISO shots can look pretty good.

At the point we got home I knew that my wife and I wanted a new body (to replace that very dated 20D) and some good lenses. And after adapting to high ISO shooting in rain forest this summer, it became clear that we probably wanted a full frame body--a bigger sensor is like a bigger lens, right? It collects more photons over a bigger area, allowing faster shutter speeds in conditions where that counts a lot (moving animals, in low light). And so I was looking at the Canon EOS 5D Mark III. I was pretty well settled on it, in fact. Then my wife asked if there wasn't a credible waterproof option. 'No' I thought. But it was certainly worth a quick look. That brought the Pentax K5 II/IIs to my attention. I wouldn't have thought to look at Pentax absent that feature, but it forced a complete rethink. I liked the camera, but I was sure I wanted a full frame sensor...

So there I was, on the fence. No simple choice. The Canon has full frame sensor, and tons of options for lenses. But frankly, the murmuring around Canon (and also Nikon) is that the build quality isn't what it once was. And the L level glass is so expensive that I wasn't likely to be getting Canon's best build quality except in the body. At the same time, the word on the current top-end Pentax stuff is that it is absolutely solid, and well thought out, with only a few flaws. Pentax certainly has cheaper high end glass. And by far, the most important argument in favor of Pentax for me was true downpour tolerance. That feature can reduce the number of missed shots dramatically-- If I stick to certain lenses and flashes, I can keep it out in the rain and not worry. How many great shots would I have caught before if I could have kept my camera out in all weather conditions?

That put me in two binds.

1) Rain forests are incredibly dark, so I would love (and would pay for) a bigger sensor, which Pentax doesn't offer, and wouldn't work with many Pentax lenses. But rain forests are also very wet, and so waterproofing is a huge plus.

2) Pentax is already a bit sparse on the variety of good glass, and that problem gets even worse when one is limited to WR lenses.

I was debating this conundrum when the K3 came out with its AA simulator. I was really impressed with the idea. Every review I saw of the K3 was strongly favorable. Pentax looks committed to WR, and though my choices are more limited, I can build up a complete system faster than I could with high end EOS gear. And the fact that there is a lot of legacy glass that I can buy cheaply (for use in dry conditions) appeals to my tinkering side... Optics are fun, and the fact that Pentax is committed to backwards compatibility makes them my kind of underdog.

With the camera in hand, I do already feel some twinge of regret over the small sensor (using the 18-135 kit lens, which is all I have so far). Actually, I was really impressed with the solid feel of the kit lens. It is so much more sturdy than my Canon kit / walk-around lens I can hardly believe it. But I do want more light sensitivity!

The bottom line is this, though: I shot in the rain the other day and felt so liberated to have my camera out, without worry. I smiled the whole time. It's a huge deal and though full frame vs. rain-proofness is a real trade-off, I made the right choice. The K3 is a great camera, and I'm looking forward to some very sharp glass to go with it, as our budget allows.

My hope is that sensor sensitivity continues to improve, and that investing in good Pentax WR glass now pays off with future bodies that are better in low light. But even at the K3 level, I have a lot of the functionality that I wanted, cheaper than I expected. And I have one major thing I didn't think to want--I can shoot in the rain forest on the forest's own terms.

Two final thoughts:

1) I miss the big dial on the back of EOS pro bodies. My thumb hunts for it...

2) I have always wanted lenses with fully uncoated glass for tropical forest work, so that fungus would be a non-issue. Just as a thought experiment, how would uncoated versions of high end lenses perform? How much benefit is really in those organic coatings?
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