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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 03-03-2019, 08:27 AM  
Are we really THAT rare?
Posted By TheOneAndOnlyJH
Replies: 7,240
Views: 985,582
Pentax is great bang for buck, but sometimes Tamron and Sigma are just cheaper and still plenty good enough. No shop pushed anything on me since I buy my gear online, but after the DA 18-135 my second lens was a $30 Sigma 70-300. (I eventually upgraded to a DA 55-300, but it cost a bit more.) I also bought a broken Sigma 18-200 that I repaired for fun. Even though I prefer the 18-135 I could see the appeal of the Sigma that would sway someone to buy it for the extra range and lower price on the used market.

In particular the Tamron and Sigma 17-50 f/2.8 are both such great performers that I can't justify the extra cost for the Pentax DA* 16-50. (Especially with the worry that the SDM could fail and turn the Pentax into a manual focus lens until I could get it converted.)

That said, I've found that official Pentax lenses are the cat's pajamas if you can afford them. My DA* 50-135 is one of my favorite lenses to use. (I just had to wait a long time to score a good deal on eBay.) I do appreciate that Sigma and Tamron provide Pentax users with extra options though.
Forum: Pentax KP 07-03-2018, 12:45 PM  
Going from a biplane to a jet should I ?
Posted By TheOneAndOnlyJH
Replies: 9
Views: 1,062
I agree with Mikesbike on a bunch of those. (You don't have to buy any new lenses, but he's right about some old lenses showing their age on these newest 24MP cameras.)

The 18-135 is a great do-anything lens in good light, and it has the best auto focus performance of any of my lenses. The 55-300 PLM is a perfect compliment for a long range lens and is said to be the fastest focusing Pentax lens. (I only have the old 55-300)

For medium and low light I love my f/2.8 combo: Tamron 17-50 (Sigma when I need quiet focusing*) paired with the Pentax 50-135. I just used these over the weekend at a wedding and I love 'em. The output of the 50-135 is probably my favorite of all of my lenses.

For ultra low light, the cheap 50mm f/1.8 is great. That's the one I always pull out around the campfire, I just have to remember to step back. (My 35mm f/2.4 is a better field of view on APS-C, but f/1.8 is more useful when it's that dark.)


*Pentax 16-50 is a great lens too and has Weather Resistance (WR), but it's more expensive to begin with and is known for SDM issues so I passed. The Sigma 17-50 has quiet AF but sometimes overexposes unexpectedly in certain lighting. The Tamron 17-50 is my workhorse, but the screw drive AF can be distracting, which is why I kept the Sigma for when I need quiet AF. (I bought both used at very good prices.) They're all great lenses though, so pick the one that fits your style.
Forum: Pentax KP 04-28-2018, 01:30 PM  
My 65 year photography journey ends with the KP !
Posted By TheOneAndOnlyJH
Replies: 46
Views: 9,665
Yeah, but with film you could upgrade to a 'newer sensor' just by changing a roll of film, and 'focus improvements' were developed by improving the photographer behind the camera. [emoji23] I think auto metering was a big jump initially, but today metering only improves incrementally.

Today you buy a new camera for improved high ISO, more resolution (megapickles[emoji39]), and AF performance. Unfortunately that means replacing the whole shebang, but at least the old lenses are still compatible!

That said, I'll drool over the K-1 and KP, but I'm still quite satisfied with my K-3. (At least for another year or two [emoji6])
Forum: Pentax KP 02-08-2018, 05:41 AM  
Using KP: Raw vs JPG?
Posted By TheOneAndOnlyJH
Replies: 34
Views: 7,217
I'll just add to what others have said.

Color, sharpness, etc. are applied and permanently 'baked in' with jpeg. When shooting raw, the settings don't impact the actual raw sensor data but they are recorded in the raw file. Most software will use those as a starting point when you first open the image. (for example, if your white balance was wrong it would look wrong in Lightroom at first, but be easy to fix.)

Highlight protection works by underexposing 1 stop and brightening the jpeg, so all the raw images taken with it enabled would need a 1 stop increase to reach 'correct' exposure ('correct' as decided by the camera's meter).

If you have a large enough memory card you can just shoot RAW +JPEG. If you're happy with the jpegs just delete the raw files when you get home, but you'll have the raw for post processing in case things don't come out quite right.

I'd also suggest trying the Natural color setting. On my K-3 Natural gives colors closest to what I've remember in person. (Bright overemphasized red/orange to much for my taste, especially in wood tones.)
Forum: Pentax News and Rumors 10-17-2017, 03:10 PM  
Pentax on Price is Right.
Posted By TheOneAndOnlyJH
Replies: 7
Views: 2,880
Until you start clipping highlights... [emoji6]
(A little ETTR humor there.)
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 12-13-2017, 10:20 AM  
Are we really THAT rare?
Posted By TheOneAndOnlyJH
Replies: 7,240
Views: 985,582
I wouldn't even be surprised if the pro level DSLR market continues to grow, just not as fast as before. And I'm sure prices will rise when they're no longer subsidized by large sales volumes of entry level cameras.

---------- Post added 12-13-17 at 12:21 PM ----------

Except Pentax, of course. They can keep their prices low. [emoji6]
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 12-13-2017, 08:33 AM  
Are we really THAT rare?
Posted By TheOneAndOnlyJH
Replies: 7,240
Views: 985,582
I think this is the demographic that contributed most to the Canikony boom over the past decade as people wanted to go digital but point and shoot cameras and phone cameras were somewhat lacking. I know a people who never went beyond the kit lens, and a few that leave their DSLR on a shelf now that phones have gotten so much better.

DSLR and compact camera sales will only continue to drop as phone cameras keep improving, and Canon and the rest may have to increase prices as they lose entry DSLR sales volume. Pentax already knows how to operate lean, so I'm hoping they can keep their prices as low as they are now.
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 11-26-2017, 06:31 PM  
Simple question on aperture setting on k-30 vs. What lens is capable of
Posted By TheOneAndOnlyJH
Replies: 10
Views: 908
There are two reasons for it to look that way, but keep in mind that f number is a ratio, not an exact measurement.

Zooms move their lens elements in complicated ways that might make the aperture look like it's changing size when it is actually staying the same. (Think of how it looks to move a magnifying glass closer and farther from an object.) Even though the physical aperture iris doesn't change the f-number changes because the focal length changed and the iris may have moved to a different part of the optical path.

F number is a ratio of focal length to entrance pupil, so f/2.8 means the focal length:pupil is 1:2.8 (entrance pupil = focal length ÷ f number). People usually just say aperture but the math behind f-number uses the pupil. (The aperture is used to change the effective size of the entrance pupil but it's usually not the same since it depends on where in the lens path it is and how much the light is bent by the lens elements.) This means that at 28mm f/22 the effective entrance pupil is 1.27mm and at 90mm f/40 the pupil is 2.25mm. This entrance pupil is what you're seeing.

Take a look at these two links and it'll explain a bit better than I can:

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/F-number
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Entrance_pupil
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 11-02-2017, 05:27 PM  
This is a damaged lens, right?
Posted By TheOneAndOnlyJH
Replies: 13
Views: 2,237
I'd hate to think the seller tried to slip one past you, but at least they refunded you without a fight. I'm glad you were able to successfully work on it so now you have a functioning lens and a little experience with what's inside.

My only caution is to keep an eye on it and twist the focus ring back and forth before each time you mount it to make sure it still turns easily. If sand made it down to that gear there's a chance there's more in other parts of the lens, and you wouldn't want it to cause issues with your cameras AF motor if it's starts to jam again.

If you notice it sticking again you might want to proactively take it apart again to get any other bits of sand out. Regardless, you should feel proud of what you already accomplished. That's far beyond what most people feel comfortable doing. [emoji3]
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 10-23-2017, 05:28 PM  
Low-light focusing: Why are some lenses better?
Posted By TheOneAndOnlyJH
Replies: 27
Views: 2,946
In bright light live view contrast detect should be immune to needing AF adjustment, but in very low light I've found that I get better results from PDAF. I'm assuming it's because the high ISO noise masks detail needed for accurate CDAF.

The Tamron 17-50 is parafocal, so the focus distance stays the same when you zoom (as opposed to varifocal where the focus distance changes). One trick is to zoom in to enlarge detail for easier focusing and then zoom out without refocusing. (Should work with PDAF and CDAF) I believe the Sigma is parafocal too, but don't quote me on that.

---------- Post added 10-23-17 at 08:35 PM ----------



I mostly use Sel-2 9pt tracking on my K-3 using back button focus. I can still choose the focus target, and 9pt is a bit faster than 27pt auto. For my uses it works reasonably well in low light. (Full 27pt auto often seems overwhelmed in low light.)
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 10-23-2017, 02:57 PM  
Low-light focusing: Why are some lenses better?
Posted By TheOneAndOnlyJH
Replies: 27
Views: 2,946
One thing I could think of might be slop or play in the focusing years. (I'm talking lenses in general, nothing specific to the lenses you mention.) If one lens has tighter gearing it might stop exactly where the camera tells it to, whereas another might stop just shy of where the camera feels it to. I know I've turned the screw drive of a lens using a precision screwdriver and you can wiggle it back and forth a couple degrees before the focus actually changes. I have no idea if there is as much play in lenses with built in SDM or HSM motors.

Another thing that might change people's impressions is sound. The Tamron will make a couple audible zip, zip noises as it settles in around the focus point. The Sigma does too but you can't hear it, which might make it seem faster to some people.

I have both the Sigma and Tamron and to be honest they seem to focus about the same in low light . In bright light I sometimes feel like the Sigma might maybe nail focus just slightly better, but only when pixel peeping (and it could also be due to my AF adjust settings). I don't think it's enough to justify the extra cost though.

The Sigma is also bigger and bulkier, and I can't stand that the zoom ring goes 'the wrong direction'. (Opposite all my other lenses.) Where the Sigma does excel is in being quiet. One of the reasons I haven't gotten rid of it yet is because I want a lens I can use without annoying other people, but even so I think I'll be letting it go soon because optically it's not any better than the Tamron.
Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing 10-18-2017, 05:02 AM  
Lightroom Woes
Posted By TheOneAndOnlyJH
Replies: 23
Views: 2,515
When you're importing it's probably showing the embedded jpg from the raw, and once it's done importing it looks at the raw data and applies a default profile. What you're describing sounds exactly like the highlight correction effect, so you might want to double check that it's still turned off.

It could also be that your default profile in Lightroom changed. Try adjusting a picture to a standard profile or no correction to see if that's the case. (Not sure the exact buttons on Lightroom but in DXO you right click the image and select "no corrections" it will show the raw image as shot with only your in camera settings applied.)

If you can't figure it out try shooting in raw+jpeg. If the jpg is underexposed too then it's either a camera setting or camera error and you can try doing a factory reset.
Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing 10-17-2017, 08:31 PM  
Lightroom Woes
Posted By TheOneAndOnlyJH
Replies: 23
Views: 2,515
Check if you have highlight correction enabled. On mh K-3 it causes a similar effect where the jpg looks fine but the raw data is underexposed when loaded in DXO.

Highlight correction underexposes about a stop to keep from blowing highlights and corrects it in camera when making the jpg. The jpg thumbnail included in the raw file is also corrected but opening it in a raw editor shows the underexposed raw data. Boosting by 1 to 1.5 stops should fix it, or turn off highlight correction on your camera. (If the K-50 doesn't have highlight correction you can just ignore what I've said.)

---------- Post added 10-17-17 at 11:37 PM ----------



I'm a fan of the natural setting too. It looks the closest to what I see and remember in my mind. Bright seems to overemphasize reds and oranges in skin and wood tones.
Forum: General Photography 10-05-2017, 08:59 AM  
wedding lens
Posted By TheOneAndOnlyJH
Replies: 31
Views: 3,575
A couple things you could mention to give us a better idea are when the wedding is, if you are the primary photographer, and if you have any budget for a new lens. Also, will you be allowed to move around during the ceremony or will you be sitting in a seat? Is it in a church/outside, day/night?

If you're limited to the lenses you have, I say bring all three. Worst case is one sits in the case for the whole event, but better to have it available if you find you need it. The 28-80 should do for most wide shots, 50 for medium range and low light. The 35-135 may be useful if you end up farther back during the ceremony and want to zoom in, but your flash might not be powerful enough. If you have to use a slow shutter speed a monopod could help, but plan to pop it off and drop it at the end so you can catch the exit procession. 135mm is also good to zoom in for candid shots at the reception so people don't notice you.

Light is very important. Weddings are usually in subdued light, so without a flash or large aperture lens you will likely end up with grainy images. If you have time to buy a lens I second btnapa's suggestion and strongly recommend the Tamron 17-50 f/2.8. That lens is on my camera more than 90% of the time and you can buy a used one on eBay for about $200. The Sigma 17-50 has silent HSM focusing, but in my opinion isn't worth the extra cost or bulk. The 50-135 f/2.8 would be great too, but those are about $500 and would be harder to justify for a single wedding. (Renting is another possibility.)

If you have a chance, you should go to the venue ahead of time to try out your lenses and settings to see how they do in terms of field of view, noise, light levels, flash usage, etc. If you can't go days earlier, at least go early on the day.

From what you wrote I'm guessing you're doing this for a friend. If you are the bride's primary photographer you might consider sharing your photos with her first so she can be the one to post them on Facebook. (It sounds like a small thing, but it means a lot to some people.) When my sister had a small private wedding I made a private Flickr album and sent her an access link so she could announce it and share the photos herself.
Forum: General Photography 09-25-2017, 10:29 AM  
It is official (for me) eBay is rubbish for legacy gear now
Posted By TheOneAndOnlyJH
Replies: 39
Views: 3,406
I had a recent bad experience with RobertsCamera.

They had a DA-L 55-300 for Buy It Now of $45 (+$12 shipping) or best offer. Descriptions said 'Not Tested, sold as is" but there were multiple pictures (7-9 ish) showing the body looked great and the glass was clean and clear. I figured just might not want to mount to a camera and test since it is a cheaper consumer zoom with a lower profit margin. I offered $29 figuring it was a slim chance but they accepted (at which point I'm obligated to complete the purchase per eBay TOC). When it arrived I found the zoom ring was VERY stiff, to the point I would be afraid of breaking it further if I forced it any more, and the focus ring wouldn't turn at all. For the amount of handling it took to get the pictures in the listing, there's no way any competent camera company employee wouldn't notice that the lens was obviously broken, even without 'testing' it. I looked at some of their other listings, and they show other zooms extended and un-extended, so I'm sure they noticed that this one wouldn't extend. Even a camera lens novice could figure out something was wrong. Basically, they took an obviously broken zoom, labeled it as 'not tested' and sold it to eager me. I'm not the only one to fall for this either if you look at their feedback.

Luckily, I was suspicious before I even made an offer, so I had an idea of what I might be buying beforehand. I have another 55-300 with a chip in the front objective and some slight haze, so I had a backup plan of merging the two lenses to make a fully functioning one if I couldn't get this one to work. I have since taken the broken one apart and found that the front was shoved back, cracking some internal plastic stops and jamming the focusing helicoid. I got it to go back together correctly and it works, but if you focus past infinity while at 300mm it slides out past the cracked stop and jams again, so I'll instead be moving this clean glass into my other lens. (Still on my to do list.)

Like other have said though, I will only buy items with actual pictures (camera gear or used phones), and I make sure to ask specific questions about expensive items so I have things stated in writing in a message that eBay administrators can see in a dispute. Important questions are fungus, haze, is the aperture slow, and most importantly "Is the item fully functional". If they respond yes and it isn't, it's an easy dispute if they don't agree to a refund.

Another note - Feedback is permanent. Use the item for a week before you leave positive feedback, and try to work it out with the seller before you leave negative feedback. It's hard to make a case the item is broken if you leave a glowing review a day after you receive it and find the issue a week later. I've also had times where I ended up leaving positive feedback after receiving defective items since the seller worked so hard to make things right.

---------- Post added 09-25-17 at 01:42 PM ----------

Just to add, ever since I upgraded from a point and shoot Canon, all of my bodies and lenses have been bought used. Most of my expensive gear (flashes, strobes, carrying bags) has been used as well. The only things I've bought new are lens filters, a tripod, aftermarket batteries, and SD cards. (Though I have a used 128GB microSD in my phone.) I have had many trouble-free experiences buying used equipment, and also some great experiences when I actually communicated back and forth with the seller a few times. My most recent purchase was from HuntsPhotoandVideo and they were good about answering my multiple messages and questions before I clicked Buy-It-Now.

You can get some really good deals on eBay or PentaxForums. The key is to be careful about looking at descriptions, ask pertinent questions, and be patient. Eventually you'll catch something selling for less than the average selling price. (The best deals are at odd times when people are asleep or at work, or someone just posted a Buy-It-Now at a low price just to get rid of it.)
Forum: General Photography 10-06-2017, 10:44 AM  
wedding lens
Posted By TheOneAndOnlyJH
Replies: 31
Views: 3,575
Unless they give you one of their cards to fill just ask them to leave the images on the card when they give it back to you. Looking at the pictures you took is the most important feedback to help develop your skills, especially when you're doing something new for the first time!

On a side note, photographs are technically copyrighted the moment you take them, but by giving someone the originals and not retaining a copy you basically give away any ownership and rights you might have. You probably don't mind in this case, but I figured I'd mention it.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 10-06-2017, 10:05 AM  
Trade 18-135 for 16-50?
Posted By TheOneAndOnlyJH
Replies: 20
Views: 3,660
That's a tough decision. I use my Tamron 17-50 f/2.8 inside and my DA 18-135 outside, so I'd have a hard time getting rid of either. If I had to choose I'd probably go with the Tamron 17-50 because most of my shots are indoors in low light and the constant f/2.8 really helps. If I didn't have issues with low light the WR, range, and silent DC motor are big enough advantages to stick with the 18-135. In pixel peeping the 17-50 can be sharper, especially at the edges, but I'm very happy with the 18-135 images regardless.

Since you have a good copy of the 18-135 I'd say hold onto it. If you need more light performance look into a used Tamron 17-50. They're cheaper than the DA* 16-50 and basically equivalent performance. The DA* also has a history of SDM failure that makes me nervous.

The only way I would suggest trading in the 18-135 is if you look through your pictures and barely any of them are beyond 50mm. If you have any really great shots you couldn't have taken between 17-50 that might sway your decision. If most of your favorite shots are between 17-50 and noisy due to high ISO, an f/2.8 lens might be just what you need.
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 10-05-2017, 02:24 PM  
What would happen if I were to use a crop lens with tc on the K1?
Posted By TheOneAndOnlyJH
Replies: 18
Views: 1,902
The pictures in that thread show it's possible, but they don't show if it really helps vs. shooting in crop mode without the TC. Someone would have to do a direct comparison to see if the extra resolution gained by enlarging the image on the sensor outweighs the IQ degradation caused by the TC. Even if a DA lens + TC combo doesn't cover the whole full frame it might still show more detail than using a lens in crop mode.

Let's say that the K-1 with an APS-C lens + TC has bad edges and cropping them off would give a 28MP image. Is that extra resolution useful, or does the TC degrade IQ to where it's worse than if you had just used the lens in 16MP crop mode? I could see if the TC is good enough, you might be able to get more detail out of a crop lens by using a TC in FF mode.

I could see this also being particularly relevant if you're deciding between the K-3 and K-1 and only have APS-C lenses. Is that 36MP or cropped 28MP better than the 24MP you would get mounting that same lens on the K-3, or does the TC degrade IQ enough that the additional resolution is negated?

Unfortunately I don't have a K-1, but if someone would be happy to volunteer images, how about the following shots taken from the same position and same settings? (same zoom, aperture, ISO, etc):

K-1 + DA lens + TC in 36MP FF mode
K-1 + DA lens in 16MP crop mode ("K-5 equivalent")
(K-3 + DA lens wouldn't hurt if you have one)

This would help answer whether the increase in resolution outweighs IQ degradation. Of course it will probably vary for each crop lens or TC, but at least it would be a start.
Forum: General Photography 10-05-2017, 03:34 PM  
wedding lens
Posted By TheOneAndOnlyJH
Replies: 31
Views: 3,575
Since there won't be a pro there, try to think of all the pictures that people might miss. It might help you to write down a list ahead of time to build some ideas.

Think of a way to get a good closeup of the rings. Before the ceremony you can take the standard rings-in-a-bible shot, or just on their hands after they've tied the knot. (The 50 prime wide open would be great for this.) If you're with the bride or groom before the service, focus on some little things that might be missed. A close up of the groom's bow-tie or bride's special shoes or earrings.

Try to plan how you will move around during the ceremony. The best place to photograph the wedding party on their way to the alter probably won't be the best place to shoot the vows. And at the end, you definitely want a good vantage point for the kiss. If it's a really quiet church and you notice the screw drive is distracting people you may want to try manual focus if you're comfortable. (But don't take chances with that kiss! It might be quick!)

Make sure you take pictures of the setup, both at the church and the reception. Some couples go through a lot of trouble picking out bows, flowers, place settings, etc. Try to get to the reception a few minutes early and shoot the table settings, favors, and cake before people come and disrupt things. The 50mm prime would be great for that.

If you're dedicated enough you could go around during the meal and take a picture of each table while everyone's sitting down. (That will help make sure you cover everybody so you don't miss guests you're not familiar with.)

When it's time to cut the cake or give speeches, jump up early to get a good vantage point before other guests block you.

Later in the night, it's usually pretty dark for dancing. Depending on the venue bouncing your flash off the ceiling or wall behind you will avoid harsh glare or that deer-in-the-headlights look.

And the hardest part, especially if there's no pro photographer, is that someone has to take charge. You mentioned you'll be the second photographer, but if the primary photog isn't wrangling people efficiently you may have to step up and control the scene. There may be limited time between the service and reception, so if nobody's calling the shots you won't be able to make it through all the family group photos. Even if you have to put your camera down and become the primary photographer's 'assisant', make sure everyone's eye's are directed at the same camera for those group shots. At my brother's wedding their friend with a 'good camera' offered to be their photographer (since I was in the party), but she was just standing around and waiting for people to arrange themselves. My wife had to step in and take over for the family shots (I love when she uses her teacher voice on adults!:D) and I took over for the reception.

You can also search this form for wedding advice. A lot is gear related, but some threads focus on content, like this one.

But all that said, also remember to have fun. For your sake I hope the primary photographer knows what they're doing, so you can just use this as a learning experience and enjoy yourself. Best of luck!
Forum: General Photography 10-03-2017, 07:49 AM  
Reverse image search software for HDD search
Posted By TheOneAndOnlyJH
Replies: 11
Views: 8,388
If you know when the picture was taken you might be able to search for files modified on that day or around that time frame. (Images should only change modification date if you edit them using a destructive method.)

It's a little different in other versions, but in Windows 7 you browse to the root of the drive, then type .jpg (or whatever the extension would be) in the search bar and add filters like datemodified: or datecreated:
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 09-22-2017, 02:16 PM  
Need advice on portrait lenses
Posted By TheOneAndOnlyJH
Replies: 20
Views: 2,130
I think you might do well with the 50mm f/1.7 you already have since it makes a pretty good portrait lens on APS-C cameras like your K-50. Portraiture is actually a very broad field, but your 50mm f/1.7 and 28-200 are perfect for figuring out where in the range you are happiest. It's all about perspective.

The first thing you'll have to decide is whether you looking for head, torso, or full body portraits. Another decision is if you want flat backgrounds (indoor) or natural backgrounds (outdoor).
¨¨Using your 28-200, take one picture close up (40-50mm) and then another farther away but zoomed in (80-90mm) to frame your subject the same. (Use the same aperture for both.) Comparing how they look will help you see how the perspective changes due to focal length. Zoom in on their face to see how the perspective changes the shape due to distance.
This link does a great job showing how perspective changes faces. He moves farther with each lens to frame the face the same, and as focal length increases his face 'fattens' up.* The comments under the article are pretty helpful too.

Next take a shot using your 50mm wide open at f/1.7 and at narrowing apertures (f/2.8, f/3.5, f/5.6, f/8.0). Comparing these can help you see how much you want the background out of focus.
Based on these two little trials, you can probably get an idea of what focal length and aperture range might make you happy.

*This is also why people say 'the camera adds 10 lbs'. You're used to seeing how you look in a mirror 3 ft away (6 ft between your eyes and your 'mirror image'), so a picture taken 3-6 ft away looks familiar. A picture on TV is usually shot from 10 or 20 ft away, so your face looks wider than you are used to seeing. (This is also probably why people are addicted to selfies, taken from less than 3 ft away.)

---------- Post added 09-22-17 at 05:48 PM ----------

Portraiture really is all about personal preference. Here's another link that compares perspective effects at different focal lengths using full torso shots outdoors. He's not looking at background blur so much as perspective and background size.

It seems a bit confusing at first, but there are a few concepts that are worth getting familiar with.
1) Moving farther from the subject and zooming in will make the background appear larger (though probably blurrier. See #2).
2) At the same aperture, a larger focal length will have a narrower depth of field, causing a blurrier looking background.
3) For a given focal length and aperture, moving the subject (and zone of focus) closer to the camera will make the background blurrier (but the subject will be larger).

Here is an online simulator with slider controls to help demonstrate. I knew the basic physics from school, but playing with the simulator really makes it obvious.
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 09-18-2017, 01:59 PM  
Need advice on portrait lenses
Posted By TheOneAndOnlyJH
Replies: 20
Views: 2,130
Ignore what they say about equivalence, it is just an 85mm lens and that's it. You can pretty much ignore full frame equivalence math if you aren't switching between different systems, just get used to what focal length means in terms of your camera and you'll be fine.

Full frame equivalence math only came about because people were used to how their lenses performed on film (full frame, a.k.a. 35mm 'sensor' size) and wanted to wrap their heads around how lenses would perform on their new digital cameras with smaller sensors. A good analogy would be to think of it like inches and centimeters. If you think well in terms of inches, you take measurements in centimeters and convert them to inches so the information is easier for you to wrap your head around, or vice versa. (Just like you might convert someone's height measurement from 175cm to 69 inches or 5'9" since that's the format you are used to seeing.) If you never switch between systems, you never need to worry about the math. (Though if you do switch to full frame in the future, you'll probably have a good understanding of what focal lengths mean on APS-C and you may end up doing the math in reverse.)

These ranges aren't set in stone and everybody has different tastes, but here's a rough guide:

Ultra wide angle.....10mm (APS-C) / 16mm (Full Frame) .................... Creative architecture, landscapes, starry skies, etc.
Wide angle lens.....18mm (APS-C) / 28mm (Full Frame) ..................... Commonly used for landscapes, group pictures
Normal lens...........35mm (APS-C) / 50mm (Full Frame) ..................... 'Normal' being closest to the way you see the world with your eyes
Portrait lens......50-90mm (APS-C) / 70-135mm (Full Frame) .............. 'Portraits' can range from full body to head shots, so the range is quite subjective.
Telephoto lens.... >70mm (APS-C) / >100mm (Full Frame)
Forum: Pentax K-3 & K-3 II 06-28-2017, 01:43 PM  
K-3 delay when using the flash
Posted By TheOneAndOnlyJH
Replies: 305
Views: 56,921
Just to reiterate, avoid auto ISO since the camera calculates ISO without taking flash into account without seeing the full effect of the main flash and often results in less than optimal exposure settings with high ISO and low flash power. (Including TAv and full Auto)

You mention Auto mode in your Metz 58 AF-1 is too much around ISO 1000/2000. I'd suggest using a lower ISO if possible. It should fix the overpowering flash issue and will give slightly better noise performance. Things in the background will be dark, but that's better than overexposed main subjects.
Forum: Pentax News and Rumors 06-28-2017, 05:50 AM  
Final score - Pentax 84, Sony 82. So WE'RE TIED??!!?!
Posted By TheOneAndOnlyJH
Replies: 116
Views: 13,084
You have now given me a new gold standard... Now where can I find those very talented birds to practice on? The best I've ever seen is a dog on a tricycle!
Forum: Pentax News and Rumors 06-27-2017, 01:04 PM  
Final score - Pentax 84, Sony 82. So WE'RE TIED??!!?!
Posted By TheOneAndOnlyJH
Replies: 116
Views: 13,084
Oops! I had the wrong acronym and I've been wasting time trying to work on my Bird In Flight technique. I guess I'll go find some bicycles to practice on instead! 😄
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