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Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
02-12-2017, 04:22 PM
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I don't know exactly how much things have changed in the past few years (this is an old thread), but in deciding to toy with portraiture in a smallish 13x16 spare bedroom with an additional 4x7.5' naturally lighted dormer/sitting area I opted for LED continuous lighting. Very little heat, compact setups, 5200K "daylight" balanced, and far easier for me to judge what I'm going to capture with the lights on all the time since I haven't found a pro to intern with. So far so good.
I have blackout shades for the two room windows (one east and one south), and open/close them as needed. Four RPS Coolled variable power lights, a 150W key, 100W fill and two 20W for background and hair. No weird colorcasts either like mentioned with some of the older lights.
A mix of Godox large 31x47' rectangular, 38"octagon, strip w/grid softboxes, beauty dish, and reflectors depending on the session. Two Kupoles and one wall-mounted boom to save floor space, a few used superclamps and extension rods/pins from the local camera store, and a couple of cheap light-stands that came free with the small LED's but work well for homemade reflectors and flags. The total for all the lighting and stands was under $1250. But with this setup I can go all natural lighting, a mix of sunlight and artificial fill, or all studio lighting. And I still have quite a bit of free walk space tho the one big softbox can cramp one side of the room.
TBF I did add a couple of unnecessary but useful perks, one of them a wall-mount tethered 4:3 monitor for the model to follow shots as I take them. Even that was less than $60 including a cheap swivel-mount bracket and micro-HDMI cable. Between the lights, a couple of arms/extensions and modifiers, a 53" paper backdrop 3 roll holder (using two), a couple of 8' backdrops with a ceiling mounted rod for full body/couple portraits I've invested about $1600, and I've got a very adaptable space. I won't be shooting any group shots, but for singles and couples it works pretty well. With a little planning full-body poses are very doable even in this small space.
Anyway, using only the studio lights with the windows blackened I can shoot a *55 or Bower 85 up to F5.6@100 and still keep the ISO at 400 with the careful light placement. Typically I use F3.5 (but sometimes 3.2 or 4.0) which allows for 200 ISO and still a little wiggle-room on DoF. Augment with some natural lighting and I'm golden at faster speeds/higher F-stops. I'm certainly not professional and the home studio is for fun, but friends, family and the occasional model working on her portfolio have been pretty happy with the results. I'll guess continuous lighting has apparently gotten much better in the past few years. I've personally found it very workable even in the absence of any window light.
One thing else. So as not to bother my wife and daughter quite so much as de-facto model fill-ins I bought a full-length mannequin from eBay for $60. Pretty realistic, actual eyelashes, basic makeup and lipstick, glassy eyes that reflect catch-lights, two wigs and even somewhat pose-able. "Penny" lets me work on some planned sessions in advance, playing with lighting on a patient piece of plastic which has made things a lot easier and smoother for the less-understanding skin-wrapped ones. :)
So my wife has taken a real liking to "Penny". If she'd only smile once in awhile...
at least I don't have to clean up behind her.
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Forum: Sold Items
01-08-2017, 07:53 PM
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Oh, you can't talk about price no matter how much it is. Now you'll probably get banned.:o
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Forum: Photographic Industry and Professionals
11-04-2016, 07:50 AM
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As former photography student and teacher, all I can say is "totally awesome". People wearing art, willing to be photographed. How does it get any better than that? If you call yourself a photography enthusiast, you should dream about going places like this, even if like me, you're probably to old and grumpy to enjoy yourself there.
I'll fire up the bus for a class trip. Come on, were going, everyone got their permission forms signed?
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Forum: Photographic Industry and Professionals
10-17-2016, 01:18 PM
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Yes, I would say he is a fan and, I think, he is making money by selling prints to the cosplayer not to mention the magazines he will get his photos in.
I think it boils down to the love for the character. Another way to question it would be, why would somebody that loves NFL go out and buy a jersey with a players name on it and spend 150 dollars for it? It is for the same reason, they love that player, the way he plays the game and the way he acts. The difference is, cosplayers generally need to make their own costumes. In Japan, cosplaying is such a big thing that people can go and buy costumes off the shelf and maybe add on a few small things. Some people also dress as characters from RPG's too.
As I said above, I have never done cosplay, but I have thought about dressing as a character from a movie and going to conventions and renaissance festivals. If you are wondering who, Friar Tuck from Robin Hood.
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Forum: Photographic Industry and Professionals
06-24-2016, 03:46 PM
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The 16-50 & 50- 135 will cover anything you may run into and are both fast enough for a no flash shoot.Put a press pass in a lanyard around your neck (if not available just stick a pic of yourself in the lanyard) , be polite about moving in the crowd and smile alot.
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Forum: Travel, Events, and Groups
06-22-2016, 12:37 PM
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5 years in army purged me of any desire to ever camp again.
roughing it is a motel 6.
I own a timeshare. 4-5 star resorts and king beds and Wi-Fi sooooo much more civilized....lol
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Forum: Travel, Events, and Groups
04-20-2016, 10:55 AM
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Go to Berlin. It's by far the biggest and a totally unique city. To be in Berlin for a month totally makes sense: The main attraction for me in Berlin is its easy going lifestyle, and you will only get into that if you stay longer than just a few days, and meet some people. The quarters have actual street life (instead just people hurrying from A to B like im some cities). The stuff you discover in 3 days is only stupid touristy stuff but there's plenty of history and also general unusualness that in 1 month you will discover a lot of stuff. Small shops, street art, awesome variety of food, beach bars, ruins, etc
Don't go to Frankfurt. Go to Hamburg instead, it's 3 hours from Berlin and also an awesome city, only way more expensive than cheap Berlin.
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Forum: Travel, Events, and Groups
04-20-2016, 03:54 AM
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I lived in Germany for 12 years, you definitely should visit that country.
Poland is also beautiful, (and less expansive)
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Forum: Sold Items
03-31-2016, 10:31 AM
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If i may, i think you should sell things separately. you have some good lenses, that will sell well. You could sell everything quite fast.
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Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
09-18-2015, 05:45 AM
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For a while now I have been looking for a portable flash system to work with on location that had more power than standard AA battery powered hotshoe flash units and manual wireless control with the ability to use studio flash modifiers and also to be used with any camera. After a bit of searching around, I came across this bare-bulb flash unit. It is also worth mentioning that The Godox Witstro* AD180 and the bigger AD360 both support HSS - at the time of writing this capability is only available for Nikon and Canon users.
The Godox AD180 flash head on its own isn't all that different from the Pentax equivalent: the AF540FGZ. My AF540GFZ is the older model that was made in Japan with very sturdy materials. I have to say that construction quality of the AD180 is Superb even when compared to the Nikon SB910, the AD180 has reassuring heft. The head tilt/rotate mechanism on the AD180 is very sturdy as well, and has equivalent freedom of rotation and tilt compared to the AF 540FGZ.
Combined with the PB960 Lithium Ion battery pack the AD180 is much heavier, but infinitely more versatile than any standard hotshoe flash. It is important to note that this is an IGBT** flash. Which means at lower power settings the flash pulse is significantly shorter than It is at full power.
The AD 180 produces a T=0.1 flash pulse of about 1/200th at 1/1 power, and the flash pulse profile looks a bit like this:
At 1/2 power things start to get interesting, as the flash pulse is cut short due to the IGBT shunting the power away from the bulb halfway, so the flash pulse profile looks like this:
As a consequence of this fast switching ability: as the power levels get lower the duration of the flash continues to get shorter, until you finally reach 1/128th power, the flash pulse lasts for 1/10,000th @ T=0.1. Mains powered Monobloc heads with variable power work the opposite way: at 1/1 power they are at their fastest, while at lower power settings they are at their slowest. The practical upshot of this faster switching is that it is possible to freeze motion while using wider apertures than what would be possible with studio flash units. Though there is a trade-off, the colour temperature gets higher as the flash duration get shorter, the variance is about +75 Kelvin per power level.
Canon 1DX - Sigma 180mm f/2.8 EX OS HSM APO Macro 1/250th f/11 ISO 100 - Elinchrom Speed trigger used. AD180 with 100cm Elinchrom Deep Octa used for back light with a second AD180 with an Elinchrom 16" reflector with a 30 degree grid as the key light.
These AD180/AD360 units also do not require the capacitor to be discharged when changing power settings. Only after 12 hours without use will they automatically shut down. Even if they do shut down, they remember their settings - the transmitter does as well. I can't tell you how many times I have had to send an assistant off to tend the flash units in order to keep them from shutting down and resetting.
The lower compartment of the PB960 is a Lithium Ion rechargeable 11V 4500mAh battery. These can be changed when needed by the press of a clip on the battery, which slides into the control unit. When fully charged a PB960 battery can deliver about 900 full power flashes from the AD180 (450 from the AD360). The recycle times are significantly faster than most AA powered flash, there is a cable DB 02 that plugs into both ports on the control module and this further reduces the recycle times, but only allows you to connect one flash to each PB960. With the DB-02 cable with the AD180 at 1/8th power, the flash can keep up with a 1DX firing full tilt at 14 FPS until the buffer fills.
The Battery Pack control module has a belt clip and can be comfortably attached to camera bags or your belt, It is very light, and won't encumber you. It can also be mounted on flash stands with the a Q clamp from Godox***. Disappointingly, this clamp has to be bought separately and is not included with the Flash kit. At the time of writing my two battery packs have gone through only a few recharge cycles, and have proven to hold its charge for a considerable length of time between shoots. Excellent performance.
One of the key components to the AD 180 is the FT-16 transmitter and receiver system. Why it is not included in the basic kit is beyond me. At the time of writing, the FT-16 is the only way to manually control these flash units wirelessly. It offers the ability to change flash power levels in 1/3rd stops, activate the buzzer which gives auditory confirmation that settings have been received by flash units, and control over the LED AF assist lamp.
The FT-16 uses a lower 433MHz frequency, which the better known Pocketwizard also uses. I have tested these units at distances over 80m without black frames or misfires. There has been talk of Godox producing a 2.4Ghz transmitter and receiver for these units, which is said to allow for flash grouping and TTL control and deliver superior reliability over long distances due to the higher frequency. Godox also make the Cells II transmitters, which are needed for HSS, the Cells II is unable to control the flash units the way the FT-16 transmitter can. In any case the FT-16 transmitter is at its most reliable at 1/180th sync speeds, any higher than this, and you risk limiting its range and reliability. The smaller FT-16 receiver plugs into the USB port on the flash and is powered by the battery pack, the FT16 transmitter is powered by two AA batteries - which are not included.The transmitter itself does not have a PC-sync socket which is a bit of a design blooper when one wants to use the O-GPS1 on a Pentax DSLR.
As can be seen here there a multiple triggering options for the AD180, Hotshoe,USB FT-16 receiver, 3.5mm mono plug, and PC Sync. The AD360 Has a removable hotshoe, which is able to be replaced by a plate with a 1/4th thread allowing it to be mounted directly onto flash stands or boom poles.
So what kind of photographer is this flash system aimed for? I would say macro photographers,product photography, events and portraiture**** and outdoor Sports (quantum make a special reflector for telephoto lenses). It is a versatile system that becomes especially useful for portraiture when you get one of these:
The Godox Elinchrom S-Flash bracket allows one to use bare-bulb, and standard flash units with any Elinchrom/Rotalux Light modifier. There are also brackets from Godox in Bowens Mount. The bracket is plastic, but very sturdy and the tilt motion on it is ratcheted which eliminates droop or unwanted movement when adjusting the position of heavy light modifiers.
*Also known as Bolt VB ,Cheetah light ,and Interfit strobies... they are all made by Godox anyway.
**Insulated Gate Bipolar Transistor - these excel in high energy applications where fast switching times are needed. The spell checker in Firefox keeps trying to correct this acronym to LGBT which is something else entirely...
*** Quantum,Norman and Lumedyne also make a similar clamp - however they omit the useful spigot threads which allow you to attach a flash to the clamp when you don't have a stand or need to place a flash on something else. Quantum,Norman and Lumedyne also make light modifiers that are compatible With the Godox system.
**** Though for overpowering the sun, and being able to use large light modifiers the AD360 - which is an additional stop more powerful than the AD180 would be a better choice.Or even the 600Ws Xenergizer system, though at the the Xenergiser system only supports bowens mount lightshaping accessories.
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Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
10-21-2015, 11:12 PM
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Exactly, there are only two triggers that I know of that support P-TTL and HSS and they are hard to get a hold of, and I don't think either of them would work with the Godox flash units. So if you need HSS you don't have a lot of options. But it is possible to use the AD180 to overpower sunlight, even at 1:1 the recycle times are extremely fast and even at that power setting the PB960 battery will outlast any AA cell hotshoe flash. The AD360 can overpower sunlight as well, and still provide enough light for the use of larger light modifiers, Octabanks,Striplights, Beauty dishes.
P.S I recently completed my review of the Elinchrom EL-Skyport transmitter Plus HS for Nikon. In a short product interview with the Elinchrom representative, I raised the question of offering the transmitter in an Pentax flash variant, he said "due to the 645D and 645Z cameras there has been a considerable increase in demand among professionals for triggers suited for Pentax cameras". While he mentioned that there were technical hurdles to overcome with this, he also mentioned that it might be possible to develop a universal trigger: one that could be programmed VIA firmware that would work with all the other camera manufacturers that are missing out on wireless manual flash control with Elinchrom flash heads and include TTL and HSS.
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
12-26-2015, 11:30 AM
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yep, like k-5 colour rendering but k-3 can push sharper images.
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Forum: Photographic Industry and Professionals
09-15-2015, 04:12 PM
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It's a huge problem for the photographer to enforce, for sure. Suing your customers is bad for reputation. She could put in the contract "I will walk out if you don't put a stop to this sort of thing" but then the couple will tell the story as "She walked out on us because someone else was taking photos," leaving out the part about how there was another semi-pro there, violating the contract, she told them to stop him, they didn't, and...
The comments on the article are revealing. Apparently the DJ also is a professional photographer through another company. He was hired only for DJing but took pro-quality photos. Does that change your opinion of why the hired photographer was upset? My suspicion that the DJ was trying to advance his photographic career by careening on the hired one's reputation and skills seems quite correct. Think of it...she takes a shot, he recreates it with someone else and takes it. He's basically sniping her shots and using her skill to boost his photos. Very bad. (This is something I deal with a lot, since there's only so many cosplay models and we all shoot the same people. We have to work fairly hard to make sure we don't infringe on each other's shots and each do something different. Our hard rule is that if you absolutely feel the need to copy someone's shot [but you shouldn't], you do not, under any circumstances, publish that shot.)
Then he put his photos on social media. I publish my photos on social media too. While the good models credit properly, but newer ones and bad ones don't and others still crop out my watermarks and give me zero credit for the photo. This would most certainly happen in this wedding case. People toss photos around without any concern for who took them--general populace is far worse than my circle because we're a tighter knit group. Effect? The DJ's photos will be mixed in with the pros and no one will know whose are whose--either the DJ will get credit for what the pro did or the pro will get marked down for the DJs work (if his is better, then she would get credit for his, but we can assume that she thinks she is better).
I'm quite certain the hired photographer doesn't care about cell phone pics or even advanced amateurs who don't post their stuff. Everyone can tell point and shoot and cell phone pics from pro ones. She might not even care if social media is not a component of her business promotion. But if she's trying to build reputation with help from Facebook, Instagram, etc., then she's going to be very concerned with someone competing with her there.
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Forum: Photographic Industry and Professionals
09-08-2015, 10:58 AM
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He has a nice eye and clearly a way with people.
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Forum: Photographic Industry and Professionals
08-13-2015, 11:23 AM
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You want advice? OK here is a harsh reality.
Stop speaking AOL, spell out what you mean.
Do have bis cards that I has out. -> I do have business cards to hand out. - Clear, maybe not "cool" or "hip" but people will at least not have to decipher what you mean.
Ive -> I have
ny -> by
ph
photoshots -> photographs or images
Is that any better then the other photo sites for getting views If properly run? -> Just what the heck are you talking about?
Even the spell checker on this site flags your spelling errors. As for your grammar, syntax and content, well, your education is lacking or English is not your first language. If you expect to get clients, learn to act in a professional manner. I have my doubts whether or not parents would let you in the room with their teenagers or themselves if you come across as a inarticulate hipster.
The Elitist - formerly known as PDL
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Forum: Pentax News and Rumors
08-13-2015, 04:04 AM
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They're updating the site content regarding full frame products. Canon and Nikon are bombing Ricoh web server with millions of queries to prevent Ricoh from releasing their Pentax FF camera.
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Forum: Photographic Industry and Professionals
08-06-2015, 12:21 AM
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this is a very helpful advice, I'm working on it now myself, slow down and value quality over quantity ^^
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Forum: Monthly Photo Contests
07-29-2015, 10:43 AM
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This picture was made in Amsterdam in july. This man was first time in Amsterdam and hi watched at window about 20 min. on people , buildings...
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Forum: Photo Critique
06-13-2015, 11:40 AM
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I like the original, but I appreciate that darkening the background might help things out. I just tried to upload what I've got at this point. I'm happy with what I have now.
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Forum: Mini-Challenges, Games, and Photo Stories
03-17-2015, 02:07 PM
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He's back.
Tim
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Forum: Mini-Challenges, Games, and Photo Stories
11-30-2014, 06:09 AM
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I spy a grassy expanse with only a few trees.
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Forum: Photographic Technique
10-03-2014, 07:09 AM
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Wildlife photography is my passion, and biology teacher is my profession. This summer I took my Pentax gear to the beautiful nature of Borneo. Visiting Borneo has always been a dream to me. This summer my dream came true.
I visited Sabah and Sarawak which are part of Malaysia. The National Parks I visited are Mount Kinabalu NP, Crocker Range NP, Mulu NP, Bako NP and Kubah NP. I have seen stunning views and a lot of wildlife. It was my first trip to the jungle with my Pentax gear.
I met a lot of hard conditions to photograph. Conditions like low light on the forest floor, hard contrasts under the canopy, a lot of moist and field trips during the night. I want to share my experiences with the people who also want to visit beautiful places like this. In this report I want to focus on the gear.
All my photos are from my trip reports:
Mt. Kinabalu NP & Crocker Range NP
http://ronaldzimmerman.nl/malaysia-mt-kinabalu-crocker-range/
Mt. Mulu NP
Malaysia 2014 Part II: Gunung Mulu National Park (Sarawak, Borneo) - RONALD ZIMMERMAN PHOTOGRAPHY
Bako NP
http://ronaldzimmerman.nl/malaysia-2014-part-iii-bako-national-park-sarawak-borneo/
Kubah NP
Malaysia 2014 Part IV: Kubah National Park (Sarawak, Borneo) - RONALD ZIMMERMAN PHOTOGRAPHY
Gear
I photograph amphibians and reptiles most of the time. When possible I also like to photograph mammals. I only photograph birds when I have an opportunity. I never look for them. This is why I do not have a very long telelens.
K-5
K-5 II
DA* 300 F4
HD DA 15mm F4 Limited
DFA 100mm F2.8 Macro WR
AF360 Flash
Wescott Micro Apollo (softbox)
Diffuser for my internal flash
Fenix HP15 Headlight
Clik Elite Escape (camera bag)
Bodies
For this trip I took the Pentax K-5 and Pentax K-5 II with me. The low light capabilities of both cameras are great. Photos are very useable at ISO 1600. I prefer not to go higher than that.
The big difference is the autofocus. The K-5 II was a lot better in getting focus in low light. In primary rainforest there is not much light on the forest floor during the day and during the night I just had an headlight to help with focussing. The K-5 II did a great job there. I barely used my K-5 in conditions like this. My K-5 was for wide angle shots with a HD DA 15mm Limited mounted, and it was my backup body.
In my photography I prefer available light during the day. As I said there is not much light on the forest floor, but if there is light it is extremely bright. So you can have extreme contrasts. The K-5 (II) Is very capable is making photos in conditions like that.
A Common Ground Skink (Mabuya multifasciata) under ’theater lights’
I did not want to use flash for this Bornean Keeled Green Pit Viper (Tropidolaemus subannulatus). It would look unnatural, because reptiles have shiny scales. The scales will reflect your flash. So if possible, I will not use my flash. With ISO 1000 and F3.5 with my DFA 100 macro I could still use 1/100. The snake was on a moving branch, so longer exposures were no option.
Having the great dynamic range does not mean that I have to use it all the time. Sometimes I did not use it on purpose.
I made this portrait of the Proboscis Monkey (Nasalis larvatus) in Bako NP with backlight and did not fill the shadows. Instead I made more shadows and made the bright background even brighter. The lightning of the camera was more on the background so the monkey was more underexposed to achieve the contrast
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I did the same with this Bornean bearded pig (Sus barbatus). The hair on the back is more prominent with this effect.
Sometimes silhouettes are just nicer.
DA* 300
I love all my three lenses, because they all serve a different purpose. This DA* 300 is a great telelens. It is not too heavy, can focus already from 1,5m and the image quality is great.
It has only one focal length, so it may not be so versatile. 300mm is also not that much. For my photography it is perfect. I have enough reach for reptiles (lizards) and for mammals. I am not a birder. I can imagine that birders want more reach.
Lizards can be scared very easily and by catching many species can lose their tail. Another disadvantage is that lizards look very stressed on the photograph when being caught. To achieve natural looking photos I use my DA* 300. Most lizards tolerate you within 1,5m or 2m, so this lens is perfect. I used it making this photo of the Green Crested Lizard (Bronchocela cristatella).
This Brooke's Water Skink (Tropidophorus brookei) was also photographed with the DA* 300.
HD DA 15 F4 Limited
I bought this lens because I wanted a wide angle lens, and this lens specifically for wide angle close ups. This lens can focus from very close distance (0.18 m). I use it to photograph frogs, lizards and snakes in their habitat. This lens is also very lightweight. My back was already 8kg, so another wide angle lens would make my bag even heavier. The disadvantage is that is my only non WR lens. I have to be more careful with this lens in the rainforest.
This Bornean Keeled Green Pit Viper (Tropidolaemus subannulatus) is venomous. I focussed very close using gloves to protect myself just in case. This snake was very relaxed and not striking at all.
Black-spotted Rock Frog (Staurois guttatus) looking out over the habitat.
DFA 100mm F2.8 Macro WR
For frogs and snakes this is my main lens. It focuses close and is extremely sharp. This lens is also very lightweight. What I did not like is that there is no focus limiter, fast DC motor and internal focus. That is also what makes this lens lightweight. But I would like to have all those features (Ricoh, are you listening?). The WR part is always great in a rainforest.
Using my 100mm macro during daytime gives great bokkeh and details.
You can get very close!
It is also the lens I used during field trips at night time. For amphibians and reptiles you have to go out during night time. During the day they hide, because it is too hot.
Flash setup
For my field trips during the night I used my onboard flash (with onboard flash diffuser) as the master and I used my AF360 flash as a wireless slave. I kept this wireless flash handhold next to the camera from an angle. If you do not hold this flash from an angle you will get overexposed parts because frogs have a shiny skin. This was also why my onboard flash was set to -2.
On my AF360 I used a Wescott Micro Apollo soft box to make the light softer. It really improved the quality. I needed some practice with this setup, but I am satisfied with the results.
On my next trip I want to use a macro bracket and dual flash setup for better results.
I also bought a transparent map cover for bikes. My flash fits inside. In case it was raining during a night trip and wanted to keep on photographing.
Wallace's Flying Frog (Rhacophorus nigropalmatus)
Bornean Horned Frog / Bornean Horned Toad (Megophrys nasuta)
Dark-eared Tree Frog (Polypedates macrotis)
Other tips
- I used a silica box inside my bag to keep the moist out of my gear.
During macro shots on moving trees I used AF-C and bursts to keep the subject sharp.
-I used TaV with an ISO range of 80-800. 80-1000 or 80-1600, because lightning was difficult with a lot of changing lightning in the jungle. Sometimes you have to react fast and this really helps.
-Be careful with anti-mosquito fluids (DEET), because it eats plastics. Always wash your hands with water afterwards before you use your camera gear.
I hope you enjoyed reading this, and maybe learned new things. If you have questions or if you want to know more about a subject you can always ask.
I am also very active on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ronaldzimmermanphotography
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Forum: General Photography
09-28-2014, 12:16 PM
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Forum: Photographic Technique
06-04-2014, 06:56 PM
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Just thought I would share this shot, and explain how this technique made it easier for me to achieve the outcome. back button focus is not necessary but it makes the process easier and without it I may not have thought to change focus to AFC if I was using the half depress (standard) technique.
Travelling Nifty 50 and the Down Under Neighbourhood by dcBear78, on Flickr
I set my focus point to the middle of the lens and it gets that part focussed easily. I then discovered I had to change the distance of the camera to the subject to achieve focus on the front of the lens to get the writing crisp. So holding the focus button and it being in AFC means I could move the camera in and out, holding focus on the centre of the lens until the writing was also in focus. I guess a combo of auto and manual focus techniques in the one photo.
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Forum: Pentax K-3 Photo Contest
04-29-2014, 03:25 AM
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I was relaxing at the beach in Dubai, United Arab Emirates, when a muslim woman in black abaya captured my attention. And when I saw another woman in bikini passing by the moment was perfect for a shot.
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