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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 04-11-2015, 09:24 AM  
Am I missing this function? - sutter speed limiter
Posted By BrianR
Replies: 25
Views: 2,844
I've often wondered why we don't get more settings like the nikon is capable of. More customization in how the camera behaves in the semi-auto modes would be a good thing.

As mentioned, you do get a few options in the program line. It's not obviously in-line with your aims, but you might try the "Shallow Depth of Field" program line option. It seems to be biased towards keeping the lens one stop below fully open (where you may want to be), though it will fully open the lens if it needs to. Coupled with the different iso-options it might give you want you want.

Or you can go the TAv route, and set it to expose properly at iso80 in the brightest conditions you're currently encountering. For example, on a sunny day, set it to expose properly in full sun at iso80. If your subject moves into deep shade, at worst you'll end up at iso1600 if you don't have time to adjust the other settings. On that note, you might make sure you're in 1/2 EV steps and not 1/3 EV steps so it's less clicking if you want to adjust.

Best of luck finding settings that let the camera get out of your way as much as possible so you can get on with the type of photography you enjoy:).
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 04-11-2015, 07:55 AM  
Am I missing this function? - sutter speed limiter
Posted By Rupert
Replies: 25
Views: 2,844
How I see it.....and no, I'm not a "perfectionist photographer".

The two things that matter most are speed and aperture. Most situations require that one or both be at the desired setting. If you are shooting in dim light, want 1/250 and have ISO set at 100 and aperture at f8, you are going to get a nice black screen.

It is why my normal mode is TAv, a wonderful setting where you can make fast changes and almost always get a shot that is useable. Unless in a studio setting, where M is the way to go....TAv will get you the most useable shots...I let ISO roam up to 6400, and seldom miss getting a half decent shot.

Here I needed a little speed....1/250 for a handheld Bigma...all my Bigma shots are handheld, so speed is a priority. F7.1 will give nice bokeh on the Bigma......these are jittery birds, you only have a second to make the settings, and TAv will give you that second.
IMGP0620-800 by rupert702015, on Flickr

With high ISO abilities now so common, this is a wonderful setting for casual or amateur shooters that don't feel the need to acquire perfection with every shot. Long live TAv!:D:D

Regards!:)
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 04-10-2015, 06:22 PM  
Am I missing this function? - sutter speed limiter
Posted By Fogel70
Replies: 25
Views: 2,844
One feature on Pentax cameras can do this, but it's a bit complex to set up.

Use P-mode with P-shift and "Sports" program line and auto-ISO.

Here I explained how it works.
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/6-pentax-dslr-discussion/232833-cool-feat...ml#post2465299
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 04-10-2015, 10:46 PM  
Am I missing this function? - sutter speed limiter
Posted By bavd
Replies: 25
Views: 2,844
Actually, you probably mean "Your sort of photography........"
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 04-10-2015, 01:29 PM  
Am I missing this function? - sutter speed limiter
Posted By sundr
Replies: 25
Views: 2,844
In Av mode I have the front dial set to control ISO, then I just set the ISO till I get an acceptable shutter speed. Would this solve the problem?
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 03-23-2015, 12:16 PM  
DA*200 f/2.8 - help with decision
Posted By Hereiam
Replies: 22
Views: 2,935
DA * 200mm / 2.8

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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 03-18-2015, 05:00 PM  
DA*200 f/2.8 - help with decision
Posted By baro-nite
Replies: 22
Views: 2,935
I was in a similar situation to yours, and the DA* 200 was my upgrade from the 50-200. I also now own the DA* 300, and have briefly owned the 60-250. All are excellent lenses, much better than my copy of the 50-200 (which, by reputation, has a wide variance copy-to-copy). The 300 is the best of the bunch in terms of pure optical performance, amazingly sharp and free of aberrations. The 60-250 is of course the most versatile, but it is a large lens and also actually has less reach than the 200 once you are inside 6 meters or so (any lens only achieves its nominal focal length at infinity focus and zoom lenses are typically much shorter than nominal when you get toward the close focus end of the range). The 200 has the most tendency to purple fringe, but I haven't found this to be much of an issue. IMO you can't go wrong with any of these in terms of performance, so it's a question of budget and of which spec best suits your needs.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 03-18-2015, 05:27 PM  
DA*200 f/2.8 - help with decision
Posted By normhead
Replies: 22
Views: 2,935
If you are concerned about weight, go for the DA*200. Especially since you have the DA*50-135. That covers a lot of the DA* 60-250s range with a 2.8n lens. SO cancel the 60-250. To me the 50-135 and 200 would be a great combination. But, if you decide to go to 300mm for birds eventually, the 300 and 1.4 TC will get you out there too. Personally, for primes, I like to double focal length, so the 135 and 300 is a bi much, but the 135 to 200 is a bit on the low side, so it;s a conundrum. If you can go with the 200 go with it. IT's always going to be ƒ2.8, and that extra stop for bumping your shutter speed, sometimes, you just have to stop shooting because you don't have it.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 03-18-2015, 05:09 PM  
DA*200 f/2.8 - help with decision
Posted By Billk
Replies: 22
Views: 2,935
I started with the DA 200mm F2.8 and loved it for bigger birds, other critters, flowers and side of the stage performance photos. Then I wanted more reach and got the DA 300 F4. Took a little while to get used to the handling of the 300mm (I mostly use it tripod mounted, with a joystick for manoeuvrability) but it is now my most used lens.

However, if you are sure the reach of the 200mm is what you want, you won't be disappointed with it.

PS: I have only found purple fringing to be a problem wide open and shooting into the light.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 03-14-2015, 06:15 AM  
Suggestions on telephoto (lenses or body upgrade)
Posted By Nicolas06
Replies: 24
Views: 2,630
My feeling from your situation.

If you have already a 50-135 and use a lot you 50-200 for your tele need, your easiest update it is to buy nothing, leave the 50-200 home and use the 50-135 for your tele needs. When there need, crop your 50-135.

Here is a 50-135 shoot at f/5.6 (not worse than 50-200 hey !) at 80mm. This is a 100% crop, you can compare it to your hyena or aigle crop. On purpose I didn't do any post processing and removed all the DxO automatic correction. Post processed correctly this is much better.

The crop on K3 give equivalent of 400mm framing:

IMGP2661 by Nicolas Bousquet, on Flickr

If you want to see some zoo shoots with it, this is here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/nicolasbousquet/sets/72157647367764626/
Don't hesite to download/look the full resolution shoots. It much more sharp than your 50-200.

The next logical step if that's not enough is to add the 1.4 TC for very reasonable price.
I suppose also selling that K5-II used and replace it with a K3 would allow for more cropping, a bit like you see here while keeping the current gear. The price and effect would be similar to what of the TC I guess if you take into account the money you would get from selling the K5-II.

Honestly, what you really want from the description other than that is the 60-250. Not a birder very long tele like the 150-450. But a versatile long lense. And because you still use your 50-200 instead of 50-135 (an heresy !!!!! Really) you must be very sensitive to weight.

You fill like 60-250 is very similar to 50-135 but I don't how this would be any worse than a DA*200 or DA*300. That's pure psychology as obviously the 60-250 can do more than theses 2 primes at the expense of a bit lower quality (DA*300) or a bit less light gathering (DA*200). But from practical purpose, this 60-250 DO MORE than the DA*200 and DA*300. It is not much more heavy/bigger than DA*300 and there often very interresting used price for it on the market.

That the 60-250 also cover most of what the 50-135 can do (except f/2.8 really) should not be seen as an issue but additionnal asset. If you don't need the low light gathering of the 50-135, you can sell it to found the 60-250, add a DA50 f/1.8 for almost nothing so you get both better portraits and both better tele reach.

There nothing that will bring as much possibilities as a tele than this 60-250, and on day you can add the 1.4 TC and really have the ultimate reach with very high quality (a 85-350 f/5.6) while keeping something much smaller lighter than a 150-450.

All in all then:

First learn to use you DA50-135, really ! Spend some day at the zoo with it !

Then maybe see if you still miss something.

If it is not much, just a bit more reach/details You can exchange K3 from K5-II or buy the 1.4 TC.

If you still need much longer tele or not, and advise then if 60-250 + TC is really the best compromize. 60-200 f/4 AND 85-350 f/5.6 with great quality.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 03-13-2015, 07:38 AM  
Suggestions on telephoto (lenses or body upgrade)
Posted By jatrax
Replies: 24
Views: 2,630
If 200mm is enough, and you want better than the 50-200 then get the da*60-250. It is close to my most used lens. It is big and heavy and delivers awesome images. I find myself even using it in the studio because the images it produces are so good.



Nothing wrong with your body. If you want to really improve the image quality you need better glass. Yes, k-3 is a great camera and will deliver great images but nothing wrong with the k-5II either. I shoot with both k-5IIs and k-3 and after processing it is very hard to see any differences.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 03-13-2015, 07:04 AM  
Suggestions on telephoto (lenses or body upgrade)
Posted By crewl1
Replies: 24
Views: 2,630
The DA*300 is a step above your current lenses and will give you the best improvement in your shots for long range.
Your current body is fine, no need for the K-3 IMO for what you do.
The DA*200 is too close to your 50-135 and the IQ is not as good as the *300 especially in CA/PF.
The only consideration is f you are only shooting in zoos it may be too long.
In the field 300mm is the wildlife shooters starting point.
The 1.4 TC on the 50-135 will get you same results as cropping so not really a need.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 11-16-2014, 03:45 PM  
Pentax 50 DA 1.8 vs Manual Lenses
Posted By GateCityRadio
Replies: 45
Views: 6,014
I had both the DA50 and M50/1.7....and IMO the DA50 was better. It rendereds better bokeh and the "glow" and "softness" at wider apertures is great for portraiture, which is what this lens shines at on APS-C.

X-Equals lightroom film presets by GateCityRadio, on Flickr

Tiffany Graduation by GateCityRadio, on Flickr

Danny by GateCityRadio, on Flickr

I didn't really notice terrible vignette on my attempts with film on the DA50, a few examples on Tmax 100:

Manda Lou by GateCityRadio, on Flickr

Tiffany by GateCityRadio, on Flickr
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 11-09-2014, 12:27 PM  
Pentax 50 DA 1.8 vs Manual Lenses
Posted By stillshot2
Replies: 45
Views: 6,014
Honestly, my DA 50mm 1.8 is sharp at f1.8 and is even noticably better at f2.0. The more I stop down the better it gets. It is a great lens, especially at current prices. The biggest problem I find with this lens is that you have to get the focus just right at wide apertures or obviously it won't be be sharp if out of focus. And sometimes my K30 struggles to nail the focus with my DA 50mm 1.8 so I usually refocus often and takes lots of photos to make sure I get a few keepers. I would really like to try my DA 50mm 1.8 on the K3 to see if its improved autofocus system helps give me more in focus shots when used wide open. I have thought about getting an M 50mm 1.7 but I hear the Da 50mm 1.8 has smoother bokeh which was a main reason I have kept it around.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 11-09-2014, 02:16 PM  
Pentax 50 DA 1.8 vs Manual Lenses
Posted By florinlib
Replies: 45
Views: 6,014
Here I made few tests with DA 50 - https://picasaweb.google.com/116520713575383586197/DA5018VsM5017?authuser=0&feat=directlink
For me DA 50 is the winner in terms of AF and sharpness wide open.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 11-09-2014, 12:45 PM  
Pentax 50 DA 1.8 vs Manual Lenses
Posted By savoche
Replies: 45
Views: 6,014
I don't think there is much, if any, difference in terms of sharpness - they are both sharp, very sharp. The DA has better flare resistance and less CA, and maybe somewhat cooler colours with more punch and contrast. I think I prefer the more "vintage" character of the M. At the end of the day, though, which one I pick up usually depends on whether or not I want/need autofocus that day.

Actually, I almost always pick up the FA 43 instead of either - but that's another story (and another price range).
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 10-05-2014, 07:59 AM  
Sigma 30 1.4 A Question
Posted By panoguy
Replies: 12
Views: 1,720
What camera are you using?

The lens has no AF module to tell it what to focus on, only a motor and electrical contacts to take what the camera gives it and move the elements. Sometimes the lens takes the information and doesn't move the elements enough (the 18-35 has this problem sometimes), but most often it is the camera that is sending the "wrong information" (but again, the camera doesn't know what you want, only what is most contrasty and vertical in the scene).

Pentax cameras earlier than the K-3 all have focus points that are huge in comparison to other brands, too, so what you see as "to be focused on" and something nearby might be inside the large cross that the AF module uses to detect a focus point. Also, the little red squares in Pentax viewfinders are nowhere near the size of the focus zone, they are only indicators of which focus point is being used. Pentax still has a long way to go in AF development, even after the K-3 and its incredible improvements.

Next, if you go for a lens with a smaller aperture (f/2.8 vs f/1.4) and less rotation needed to get things in focus (DA40), then the AF will appear to be better, but that is just physics and mechanics helping the camera operator along. That said, an f/1.4 lens will help the AF in low light because it lets more light in, regardless of what aperture is used for the photo (AF is done with the aperture completely open).

EDIT: you're using a K-5ii, and the AF bothers you, get a DA40. It will "help" your camera along by being fast to move the elements, and the max aperture of f/2.8 has a larger in-focus area (less bokeh, OOF), so you are less likely to see softness when the camera focus on something other than what your brain wants. Stop it down to f/3.2 and you'll be quite happy. The DA35 macro is a bad choice if you want fast AF (long throw macro focusing mechanics), but it has probably the best optics of any Pentax lens, IMHO (having owned all the FA Ltds, and a bunch of DA and FA primes).
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 09-23-2014, 09:56 AM  
Another lens-advice question
Posted By Kozlok
Replies: 15
Views: 2,189
My kit is the 18-135 for a travel zoom, and the DA15, 21, 35macro for when I want/need higher IQ. I also carry a Sigma 30/1.4 and a SuperTak 50/1.4 to satisfy my large aperture desires. At the long end, it's a Tamron 70-200/2.8 zoom. It truly gives me prime quality in a zoom lens. The 50-135 is more or less the same.

There is no reason in my mind to get a zoom better than my 18-135 but worse than the primes. The Limited Primes are just amazing. They have a close minimum focus distance, and you can take shots with the sun in the frame. Sharp, amazing colors, very little PF. All reasons to love them.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 09-22-2014, 09:56 AM  
Another lens-advice question
Posted By bdery
Replies: 15
Views: 2,189
Look at the DA40 Limited. and try to find it used, you'll save a bunch.



surprising, most people love it.



That's not a lens issue, ISO is strictly sensor.

I'd say if you're not happy with that lens, consider the Sigma 17-70. It's not as fast at all apertures, but it's extremely well-regarded and covers many bases. You could throw in a DA21 too if you really want to ;)
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 09-22-2014, 04:00 AM  
Another lens-advice question
Posted By robjmitchell
Replies: 15
Views: 2,189
Actually the light transmitted (T-stop) can be different for the same f-stop.

---------- Post added 09-22-2014 at 09:12 PM ----------

Jannis do you prefer primes or zooms? I have a couple of zooms for convenience and then high quality primes for quality/pleasure. The limiteds are simply a joy to use, where as fast zooms while more convenient, weigh a ton. No matter what you go for the best thing to do is have a look at the photos a lens produces to get an idea if the rendering of the lens appeals to you. Which country are you buying from by the way? US, Aus, NZ?
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 01-02-2014, 02:55 AM  
True Beginners - READ THIS / START HERE!
Posted By Heie
Replies: 25
Views: 7,179
If you are BRAND new to photography, this should provide a helpful head start that I wish I had all in one place rather than having to hunt it out when I was starting.

You may or may not have a Pentax DSLR already. At this point in time (January 2014), the only type of DSLR offered by Pentax is an APS-C 'crop sensor'. Crop sensor is a bit smaller than the full frame standard that uses a sensor the same size as traditional 35mm film - don't worry about what that difference means. At this point in time it means nothing to you. Trust me.

Your DSLR was not designed to be used in "Green Mode." Of course it works perfectly well in fully automatic mode, but what I mean by that is it was designed for you, the photographer, to drive it. To change the settings, to envision your photograph before you take it, knowing how to turn the dials and push the buttons to make that vision a reality. It's without any doubt that the tool you have in your hand is capable of nothing short of professional quality images. Nothing short of it at all.

If you really want to take advantage of the incredible capabilities of it as opposed to using it as a very expensive (and bulky) "point and shoot," learn the following:
  • Depth of Field - what it means, and how to manage it and when having more (deeper) depth of field is critical (i.e. landscapes) and when having less (shallower) depth of field is critical (i.e. portraits). Also, how to accomplish less or more depth of field in your photos and what affords depth of field (large aperture on your lens, distance to subject, distance of subject to background, zoom/magnification all contribute to DOF control, with the first one being the most critical).

  • Shutter Speed - yes it has to be balanced for a good exposure, but you also need to learn what it means. Too long a shutter speed and it won't freeze even a person standing there for you frozen for a portrait. Too fast a shutter speed, and you've unnecessarily raised your ISO to poor quality levels.

  • ISO - aka "sensitivity" it allows you to increase or decrease your sensors responsiveness and sensitivity towards light. In poor light (say inside a bar) it becomes your best friend, but at a cost in image quality. Learn what that cost is.

  • Exposure - how the three critical photographic settings (Shutter Speed, Aperture, and ISO) are in a three-way marriage. Think of the three points of a triangle that you need to always balance, as they always change depending on what your priorities are (depth of field, freezing action, etc) and more importantly and much more constraining - the amount (and quality) of light available to you when taking the shot. Here is a great simulator that will help with getting started:

  • Composition - a good photograph is not just taking a good photograph technically, but remember that the "study of light" is also an art. Compositional guides will be your friend until you learn how to break them purposefully because a certain shot/situation calls for it. Such 'rules' or 'guides' are the Rule of Thirds, Negative Space, Golden Spiral, and many others. Here are two guides provided by Pentax Forums that should provide an excellent starting point (and they're quick to read with plenty of examples!):

  • Focal Length - learn what difference focal lengths afford in terms of "Field of View." The lower the number, the wider the focal length, and vice versa. See what this means with regard to different shooting scenarios (indoors, portraits, outdoors, landscapes, far away shots, etc.). If you have a zoom lens (which chances are you do if you bought your DSLR with a kit zoom), so this should be easy to experiment with by just zooming in and out.

  • Your Camera - Read the manual. Read the manual. Read the manual. And then keep it in the bathroom and read it. It will answer many of your questions and teach you what the different dials, buttons, etc are for your camera, and how to change specific settings.

  • Av, Tv, TAv Modes - as soon as you can, get out of green mode. These three modes are "Manual/Automatic" type modes. Meaning you change 2 of the three settings (Shutter Speed, Aperture, ISO), and the third is automatically set by the camera's internal light meter to balance the exposure (the triangle reference above). Av is "Aperture Priority" where you change the aperture and ISO manually and the camera sets the shutter speed. This is arguably the most popular and used camera setting, so it would be a great place to start. I shoot only "M" (full manual where you change all settings manually - nothing is automatic) now, but I started in Av after switching from green mode with a trusty Pentax K-7. Do not wait the six months that I did before going off Green mode - it only delayed my progress that much longer. Initially you won't get good photos - way too dark, way too bright, or way too blurry because the shutter speed will be too slow. That's ok. Don't go back to Green mode.

I could go on, but this seems to be a good starting point, and if you have too much to focus on, then you learn nothing, right? And once you start really learning what these tenets mean, the rest will fall into place through self-discovery.

In the mean time, make sure to always keep your lens cap on when not using your lens, and always use your lens hood. Always. You will see the vast majority of shooters around you will not have a lens hood, or worse, leave it at home or have it reversed in the storage manner while shooting. I don't understand this, but don't fall into that trap. The lens hood not only benefits the quality of your images by cutting glare from the sun (think of your pull-down shade when you are driving - doesn't it make a world of difference when the sun is in your eye?), but it physically protects your lens. Just the other day I was walking around with a camera and I slipped on ice walking down an old staircase. I punched the brick wall with my camera and lens that I had in my right hand (there was no hand rail) and the lens hood was destroyed. The lens and the camera? Perfectly fine.

Hope this helps, and once again, just like I was when I first wondered what the hell I spent so much money on, you have a camera that you do not have any idea how powerful it is. This is not a bad thing nor meant as an insult. But devote the time to unlocking bits of that horse power, and your photography will start to take off, and the investment in such a machine will be more than worth it.

And welcome to the Pentax family ;)

-Heie
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