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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
06-02-2019, 11:06 AM
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Oh! You can use Purell unscented hand sanitizer to position the replacement coverings and the sticky foam in the back slots. It will inhibit the stickyness and then evaporate.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
06-01-2019, 10:49 PM
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Never had any issues with Goodman or Aki Asahi. I get the black synthetic #4003 or #4001 or whatever, it's good. Painting a metal camera is just going to make it look bad, imo.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
05-16-2019, 04:31 AM
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Kodak Ultramax 400 Guia de Esposicion.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
05-05-2019, 01:19 AM
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The primary reason film and digital look different, and the primary reason film looks better in general is that negative film compresses each stop of DR in the midtones into .7 stop (typical) density on film, and compresses the shadows and highlights even more. This results in an s shaped tone curve with lower contrast in the midtones than reality. Digital cannot lower contrast, it starts at 1 stop = 1 stop, flat from 0 to 256, and then you can only increase contrast in the midtones to lower it in the highlights/shadows to make an s curve.
The contrast will always be higher, which makes it an inferior medium imo. And the holes. Holes in the sky. I like the colors of film too.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
04-20-2019, 01:29 AM
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Just breathtaking.I sat there having to pee for the last half hour.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
03-27-2019, 11:26 PM
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H1A Jammed Film Advance - PentaxForums.com ..last post..?
---------- Post added 03-28-19 at 12:30 AM ----------
Similar thing on a spotmatic Jammed Spotmatic?
---------- Post added 03-28-19 at 12:32 AM ----------
Be careful you don't lose track of the little plastic washer around the rewind button, they can fall off at random with the bottom plate off.
---------- Post added 03-28-19 at 12:36 AM ----------
Worse comes to worse the front comes off with the four screws in the corners, there are shims beneath each that need to be there so be careful where they go/are. This will allow you to get the lens off hopefully. To put the front back on the aperture push mechansism has to be pulled forward.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
08-06-2018, 11:32 AM
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Can't imagine he'd charge you to correct this, aside from shipping.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
03-30-2018, 02:42 PM
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Kodak Ultramax 400 is great, it's all I use. You can get 10 packs of 36 fairly cheap on ebay from US sellers. I do not like the colors of Fuji, except the Reala, and the 1600 speed color, but I'm not sure they make either anymore. My CVS was so bad when they were still doing film. I once saw the person drop a full strip of film on their carpet, and pick it up bare handed. My one roll from there came back scratched and full of dust.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
12-10-2017, 10:06 AM
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It says 36 EXP. I would be surprised if Ritz camera were selling expired film at all, let alone without explicitly stating it, but there are others selling at pretty much the same price, too. They (Ritz) have 36 positive feedbacks for Ultramax, and no negatives, so I'm not worried. I'll let you know, I have some coming, you could probably still sell that K-3 for a good price. ;)
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
11-16-2017, 07:18 AM
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I think it really comes down to an aesthetic choice, which one you prefer. There is some more discussion here..
'Just as an aside, the Mamiya 7 did very well in the resolution tests and yet the files looked a lot worse than the absolute resolution would indicate. This is due to the grain of the film starting to obscure tonality and fine detailed textures. Low contrast elements got lost within the grain in most cases. The Mamiya 7 ended up resolving considerably more than the DSLRs but looking only slightly better than them.
At first it looks like the DSLR's are quite a bit sharper but once you look closer you see that the details are quite mushy. this is something that has been observed in the IQ180/film results also and is symptom of the way digital and film resolve fine detail. With digital, the finer and finer detail in an image are quite contrasty all the way to the resolution of the sensor and then, at that point, there is no more detail. The camera detail hits a resolution brick wall beyond which it cannot go because of the size of the pixel. Film, on the other hand, renders detail quite differently. Finer and finer detail loses more and more contrast so that at the point where digital hits a brick wall, film has lower contrast so the digital looks sharper. However, the film keeps on going finer and finer until either the grain overwhelms it or the scanner runs out of resolution. What this can mean is that digital can look sharper "at a certain critical resolution". This resolution is dependent on the format but having printed out lots of tests, seems to be at the point of a 300dpi print at native resolution. Once you enlarge beyond this, film carries on looking good but digital starts to look 'plasticky'. Having said that, this critical resolution for the IQ180 is 26 x 32 print - quite good enough for nearly all purposes. In our final print comparison, once you enlarge beyond this to 40 x 50 for example, the 4x5 and definitely the 10x8 start to look better than the IQ180.'
And some more after that..
Camera Test - Editor's Commentary - On Landscape |
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
04-10-2017, 11:32 PM
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Tweezers with this tip shape seem to work best for me
amazon.com: Professional Flat Square Tip Tweezers: Health & Personal Care?tag=pentaxforums-20&
You should only grab the screen with the tweezers on the little tab that sticks out, just try not to lose your grip on it. Do all the blowing with a blower in there when the screens are in place, you want to avoid blowing stuff underneath the screen when it's out. I think I used a tiny screwdriver to pull the little release back on my MX.
This is kind of fraught work, so try to organize the work area to make it easy on yourself. An articulated lamp like a luxo type of thing is Really Helpful. A magnifying glass to observe if the screen is seated properly before you put the frame back down is helpful too.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
04-04-2017, 04:10 PM
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Don't clean it, just blow it off. Anything on the mirror is out of focus when you look through the camera, so you won't see it unless it's fogged or hazy. Maybe not even then. If you're worried about how it looks because you want to sell it, fine cleaning scratches on the mirror look just as bad if not worse than some specks or crap. It's nearly impossible not to leave any if the mirror needs such treatment. Again, it doesn't effect anything, and you can't see it.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
04-07-2017, 07:50 PM
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I always leave it in, there's all kinds of crevices crap can hide in under the screen, and be hard to get out, only to come out later. Cooltouch's guide to screen cleaning is good, I usually do a final rinse with distilled water and use coffee filters to set the screen down on while I dry my hands before blowing the screen off. I wouldn't put tape on the screen, but it works ok for removing shreds of the old bumper if that's what you mean..
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
04-08-2017, 06:14 PM
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I destroyed a screen once by using alcohol on it, it frosted the surface. I think there are some plastics that can survive alcohol and some that won't, but I can't tell the difference. I would think acetone would dissolve all of them, but I've never tried it. If they're that dirty, or more commonly there's dirt behind the screen, I'll go through the top. Unless it's a spotmatic/K1000/KM. There's layers of foam down around the screen holder on those, and it's a PIA. I only did it once, that was enough. Often though, the dirt is just above the rectangular lens above the screen, and it's a lot easier to wipe off with a qtip and a blower. I use a magnifying glass to see the specks and dab them off with a dry qtip, unless I NEED to use liquid on the rectangular lens. Sometimes that's enough.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
04-05-2017, 12:08 PM
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The mirror is on the surface, correct. Early ones were glass, modern ones are plastic because it's lighter so the mirror can move back and forth more easily. I don't know for sure, but I'd assume it's plastic on the MX.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
04-11-2016, 02:13 AM
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I would guess, if the top row is row A then numbered left to right, and the bottom row is row B numbered left to right, the order of assembly is A1, B3, B2, B1, B4, A2. I don't think those 3 are screw holes but molding marks..? And you will have to align the prongs off the camera into holes in the bottom of A1.
Make sure you pull the rewind shaft up and open the back, and keep it open until you get it together right. If you push the shaft into the camera with the back closed you'll have to take off the top or bottom cover to get the back open again and the shaft out!
edit: now that I look at it more closely, if there's a piece of black plastic in the middle of B1, it's probably broken off of the black plastic around the rewind shaft on the camera, and your camera is toast.
:(
(If that's the case I think the order is A1 B2 B1 B3 B4 A2...)
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
04-01-2016, 06:26 AM
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Hopefully this will be readable...
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