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Forum: General Photography
10-04-2017, 07:52 AM
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Easy-Peasy
Place the image you want to search for in a separate folder/drive (reference). This should not be a subfolder of the files you are searching against (target).
e.g.:
Reference folder - Create a folder c:\reference. Copy the low res image there.
Start Similar image.
Click the radio button for Reference/Target search
In the "Folders to Process" pane right click and Add or click the folder+ button. Add the reference folder. Right click on the folder and pick "Toggle Reference". Add the target folder.
Execute the search by click on the Magnifying Glass button. The default threshold of 35 should be fine or setting to a larger number to "loosen" up the search. If you get too many hits and want to re-run the search with a smaller threshold uncheck the "Use Not-A-Match Database" in the Cache tab.
See also this blog entry:
http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/find-duplicates-similar-images-hard-drive-similarimages-windows/
Note: This program is written by the same developer who wrote the wonderful "DownloadThemAll" brower add-on.
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Forum: General Photography
10-03-2017, 07:49 AM
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If you know when the picture was taken you might be able to search for files modified on that day or around that time frame. (Images should only change modification date if you edit them using a destructive method.)
It's a little different in other versions, but in Windows 7 you browse to the root of the drive, then type .jpg (or whatever the extension would be) in the search bar and add filters like datemodified: or datecreated:
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Forum: General Photography
10-03-2017, 05:55 AM
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Forum: General Photography
10-03-2017, 05:55 AM
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I just sync everything with google photo's on free upload quality and search there. When I find it I look up the file name on my harddrive.
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Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
01-27-2015, 08:52 AM
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The "*" and "?" wildcards from XP are supported in 7 (I don't use 8.x), and 7 adds search filters like "filename:", "kind:", "size:", etc. along with AND, OR and NOT operators It's a long ways from regex support, and the new features are somewhat cumbersome. The new search paradigm in Explorer is to start typing in characters and Windows will filter the results as you type additional characters. My experience is that in spite of the new features, Windows search isn't much better than it was in XP.
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Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
01-27-2015, 08:05 AM
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You're searching from the explorer window (folders on windows)? I've never typed literally "filename:" ever -- never even heard of that. Just type the name directly into the box. On windows 7 if there is a word separator (like an underscore) in the filename you don't have to use the wildcard, but otherwise I think you do. In other words "4578" will find this:
somefile_4578.dng
but not this
somefile4578.dng (I think, unless it treats numbers special.)
What is the problem with typing the asterisk if it gets you want you want?
You can also use *4578*.dng (wildcards on both sides which will get you things like "snow4578v2", and you can also use the question mark for a single character wildcard, like *4578v?.dng. It gets trickier when you've got numbers of unequal length, *578* will get you img578 but also img4578. It helps to think about how you will be searching when you come up with the filename scheme. There are of course also programs you can get which will also search in much more sophisticated ways (regular expressions, etc). Windows 7 (& 8) may have some more tricks in it that I don't know about since I've been doing it the same way since XP and before. (Does it have native regex support somehow now?)
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Forum: Photographic Technique
06-25-2014, 10:34 AM
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I agree with everything BrianR says, save what experience I have not had.
Make the settings in camera, tune in your focus ring, then move the camera/your body to achieve ideal focus.
And there are varying degrees of success. Just because you want to get a cool macro shot of a bug every once in a while, doesn't mean you have to invest hundreds or thousands of dollars in a set up with strobes and reflectors and tubes and bellows etc etc. Close focus and a crop, or a $10 reversal ring on a 50mm lens can be quite successful for your "needs". (Rhetorical question: What do you really "need"?)
I use my looked-down-upon reversal ring with a manual lens and I get results that are satisfactory for my "needs". I probably take four or five shots, handheld, to get an exposure that I'm happy with. Live view is great, especially when you need to brace your arm on a nearer feature to the subject (like the ground). :-P
 Society I by severalsnakes, on Flickr
 Society II by severalsnakes, on Flickr
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
10-02-2013, 11:00 AM
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It doesn't need fixing. Page 107 of the manual.......... Hold the OK button during either MF or AF half press gives x10 magnification (after a second delay though, that's the annoying bit) and in MF it holds x10 in real time while focusing.
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Forum: Photographic Technique
06-25-2014, 09:13 AM
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Handheld, no tripod but with a good macro lens, maybe a couple dozen depending upon the subject, available light etc. I'm not incredibly great at macro of bugs. Spiders are harder if they are tiny, like little crab spiders, but not so much if they are bigger ones like orb weavers. With a tripod probably a bit less. Honestly I prefer this little P&S camera I have for this than a DSLR because it has a really great macro mode and I tend to get far better macro shots in less time than it can take me with the DSLR kit. I can take out the DSLR, mess with macro lenses, tubes etc and take half an hour to get the perfect shot or I can whip out this camera and get it in 5 mins or less. No kidding. There are things I honestly think a P&S is better for and this is one of them. My Oly M43 camera has a pretty good macro mode too I'm finding. When it comes to stationary macro objects sometimes I do like to go all out with the DSLR but not usually with tiny bugs. For that I just grab my P&S or my Oly with an AF lens. That usually does the job and far better than I can futzing around with the DSLR. Macro shots of jewelry or whatever, DSLR, no problem. Macros of tiny moving bugs, I need my P&S or my Oly....
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
06-25-2014, 08:56 AM
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Update activity will keep the camera on, that's not a problem. Just make sure the battery is charged fully and take your time and read the instructions. If you need help just ask. it is really, really simple the SECOND time you do it. The first time can be a little scary :)
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Forum: Photographic Technique
06-25-2014, 07:55 AM
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Your profile says you have a K-50. Live View with Focus Peaking should make focusing much easier.
This video is for the K-01, but it works the same way on the K-50.
You Tube
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src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/YKnGzd1RLr8?controls=1" allowfullscreen>
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Forum: Photographic Technique
06-25-2014, 05:17 AM
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For a non-moving object, handheld, and fast enough shutter to take care of motion blur- when I first picked up my macro lens (a dfa100mm), I'd hit the focus dead on probably much less than 20%, and probably get 'close enough' about half the time. I'd take multiple pictures of everything and resetting the focus each time would usually ensure I got what I wanted after 5 or 6 shots. After a few years I was still taking 5 or 6 shots each time but I realized I was hitting the focus closer to 90% of the time, so now I don't usually take more than 1 shot of a given composition to cover focusing errors anymore unless I think I futzed it up. Practice will make a difference.
Handheld, I focus by setting the focus ring where I want it to be and then moving my body forward and back. Try to get a feel for how things in the viewfinder look as they transition from being front focused to being in-focus to being back focused. It's this transition that I use as a guide to tell where the focus is, and after doing this enough you can get a feel for when your subject is coming into focus and when you should stop moving.
Of course with a tripod or artificial lights and/or reflectors/diffusers, you can rig things for a higher f-stop for more DoF which will make things more forgiving of focusing errors. If you are set of handheld in natural light, don't be shy about cranking the ISO to help maintain a decent shutter speed and DoF, a bit of noise is usually preferable to camera shake and too shallow DoF while you're still learning a technique that works for you.
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Forum: Photographic Technique
06-24-2014, 01:01 PM
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I don't even count on getting good handheld shots without a tripod. When that barrel gets extended way out, either with the internal focussing system, or a bellows or rings, it doesn't matter, the front lens element is a long way from the film plane and small movements make a difference. I like a tripod and a 2 second delay. If it were me, I'd get used to carrying the camera around on the tripod. I at times when I don't have time to set up, I find the tripod still adds enough weight to the camera to stop me from twitching.
That being said, the following were shot hand held without a missed focus, at ISO 640 and 1/1000 of a second ƒ7.1. I selected the poses I liked, not because of missed focus. Sigma 70 macro 2.8 and K-3.
If the light is good, and it's more a close up than a macro, you're good.
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Forum: Photographic Technique
06-24-2014, 01:02 PM
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I get about 75-80% using catch in focus. Give it a try, just set the lens where you want and move your body/camera together toward the subject holding the shutter button down, keeping the focus point where you want it. When the point comes into focus you will see the red square and the camera will fire.
Or you can not move and slowly turn the focus ring while holding down the shutter button, camera will fire when the subject is in focus.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
06-10-2014, 12:23 PM
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I believe you stated the entire problem. At close distances, manual focusing is a must, especially handheld. You can get in the ballpark with autofocus, but even your breathing will move the plane of focus after the camera has locked. You need to learn the technique of rocking your body ever so slightly in and out of focus, while the camera is focus locked or in manual, and then pressing the shutter at just the correct instant. The only other option is to use a tripod. But, all this fuss about focus points and calibration is not going to help one bit when we're talking about handheld close focusing.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
04-30-2014, 10:33 AM
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General ebay strategy: if you want the item, decide on your max bid and get your bid in first. If you are just bargain hunting, then park spotted opportunities in your watch list and fire in a bid last second. Avoid weekend evening bidding frenzies.
Learn how to use good search terms to find items that have been listed in the wrong categories and/or poor titles and/or weekday am end times.
And be prepared to do a bit of legwork. Some of my best buys have been on an item described as "lens" and only going through the listings and checking it out have I realised the opportunity. Learning how to recognise mounts and K variants is an important skill.
Oops now I've told you all my secrets;)
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Forum: Photographic Technique
06-04-2014, 08:44 PM
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taken with Tak 50 mm macro on K-x. Amazing camouflage,,,
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
06-04-2014, 10:55 AM
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It might be that the camera mount is slightly bent or the sensor misaligned. Or the AF module.
It would be great if you could test with another camera. Then you could quickly identify if its user error, lens problem, or camera problem.
If you still have warranty, you might want to get the camera exchanged (not "repaired"). That would also fix the problem or indicate the problem is not with the camera
Edit: Also, I hope you tried using centre point and the focus adjust function, as well as turning on/off the SR. If you shoot with "auto AF point selection" maybe the camera just chose that point. You can download a free focus chart and see how that works out (there are threads about focus adjustment and where to find free focus charts that you can print out yourself). Still, a consistent error like that would indicate a slight misalignment somewhere
---------- Post added 4th Jun 2014 at 20:03 ----------
Oh and btw, what about focus peaking? Try using live view and enable Focus Peaking. The DoF should be relatively parallel to the camera (even though it might be curved and so on). Is the DoF visibly diagonal? You can test this by mounting a fast prime and setting it to closest focus and placing the camera on a table (parallel to the surface), then moving the focus a little
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
06-03-2014, 11:37 AM
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Do you happen to rely on the focus confirmation with manual lenses ? That beep and green hexagon in the viewfinder ? If so then your AF system might be front or back focusing which means that it will indicate the sharp image little bit before or after the intended target.
The fact that problem persists with both manual and AF lenses tells me that this might be the case !
Probably easy to resolve with focusing adjustments - all doable in camera. Otherwise if you rely on mat field of the focusing screen - then it might be not calibrated properly - happened earlier and happens all the time. For manual focusing the focusing screen must be calibrated with utmost care and accuracy to provide you with any usable measure of sharpness .
,,,
' >' manntax
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
06-03-2014, 10:10 PM
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I notice there are already suggestions on focus points, which is what I was thinking, right up until I saw the lens. The only active point with any manual focus lens is the center. It's useful to remember for AF lenses but not for this lens.
Handholding might be part of the problem. Sometimes you might unintentionally rock or tilt the camera when you shoot. It might not be noticeable at regular distances, but close up magnifies these errors.
I like to use lines of text to see if the sensor and viewfinder are seeing the same thing. A flat paper with text on it is a good subject. Set up the camera on a tripod so it's pointed at a 45 degree angle to the paper. Ideally only one line of text is in focus. I have to tape the paper to the floor, because inevitably I get it almost right and the paper moves. Anyway, you can manually focus on one line, then take a shot with the lens wide open and see if you got the same line in focus in the shot. You can also use live view, focus peaking, etc. Everything should agree. (The reason for text is that I always remember what line I want in focus, but I forget numbers on a ruler or marks on a test chart.)
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
06-04-2014, 03:15 AM
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Just as a side note, the focus points were off-center for my old K7. It was just below the lower left of the etched circle. The etched glass was correct, as far as I could tell, and the red-dot was in the correct spot. Just the auto focus point did not match up.
It was easy to consistently compensate for, so I didn't feel it was worth having the camera in repair for eight weeks to fix.
I would definitely use a small black dot on white paper to try to determine if the problem is with a specific lens, with the camera, a combination, etc...
Remember also, that the auto-focus points are not points. They are small areas. If you use auto-focus, the camera may simply be stupid sometimes and not know what it is you want to focus on.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
06-04-2014, 03:38 AM
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In looking at the photos and comments I think the issue is that with a macro lens depths of field is shallow and this creates part of the problem, the other part is that with macro focus is so dependant on distance that slight forward and back movement while shooting will drift the focus away from the intended target. This is the one axis that shake reduction canot compensate for
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Forum: Photographic Technique
06-01-2014, 10:39 AM
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Hello,
Here is some drops, in green !
K-30 with sigma 50 mm f2.8 macro
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Forum: Post Your Photos!
05-20-2014, 11:36 PM
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Hello dappercorpmonkey, welcome to the Forum!
I believe the advice you've gotten so far is good, stopping down is the only way to get more DoF, which of course reduces shutter speed and/or raises ISO.
But judging from the photos I've seen posted here by other users, you own one of the sharpest, best macro lenses Pentax (or anyone else) has ever produced, the D FA 100mm f/2.8.
So, I'm guessing the the problem isn't gear, it's technique. Hope you won't be insulted, but here goes.
Did you use a tripod? My guess is no, and both photos appear a tiny bit 'fuzzy' because (again, I'm guessing) camera shake. Especially # 2.
It could also be 'wind shake'.
For now, try this experiment. Take a small, finely-detailed object and place it in normal sunlight. Photograph it at 1/160s, handheld. Set up a tripod for the exact same photo and photograph the same object at 1/160s, using a cable release, 2-second delay (for mirror lock-up) after careful auto/manual focusing.
If the second photo is even a tiny bit sharper, well, there you go!
While you have the setup, stop down to f/11 (in AV and ISO 100) and use a white posterboard (or reflector) to bounce light onto the shadow side. With the cable release or clicker, move the board around and keep clicking. Each shot will tell you more about lighting than I ever could.
Now, try your flash at 1/4 power on a cord, here, there, over, under.
Good macro isn't a single big skill or one piece of gear. It's a lot of little techniques, practice, work and hopefully, some artistry.
Stable camera platform, right settings and dead-on focus, control the light, angle, POV and background.
End of lecture.
Ron
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Forum: Photographic Technique
05-25-2014, 03:27 PM
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Somebody stopped a few weeks ago to see if I was ok when I was on my hands and knees beside the highway taking flower shots. It's happened several times. I laugh about it later, but try to be polite and thank them. I'm sure my neighbors either think I'm absolutely off my rocker or ignore me...they've seen me crawling around taking pictures so many times I Guess they barely even notice now. If something actually did happen I'd probably lay there for 2 days till somebody noticed I hadn't moved lately...
I've also been questioned by the local police in Louisiana probably a dozen times. Had them called on me at least 4 times. Usually they were decent about it, found out I was just out doing nature shots and went on their way.
Several of the neighbors here have mentioned it though...yeah I've seen you on your hands and knees a few times...a few??? I'm at it almost daily...lol
But back on topic, sometimes after showing people some of the shots I get maybe they take a closer look too.
This shot, for example.
 clover_f16-P91569 by Paleo Pete, on Flickr
I don't know how many people have looked at prints of that same flower and didn't know it was the same white clover they see in their yards every day. You see it when you walk around and barely even notice it. but have you ever picked up a magnifying glass and taken a close look? Probably not. I've never met anybody that has. I didn't either, until I turned my camera into a magnifying glass. Most people look at that shot or some of my other white clover shots and are amazed...I didn't know it looked like THAT!...
I didn't either. And now I hope I get some other people to take a closer look too, it's a really interesting world out there, if you look close at a section of it no larger than a postage stamp...
And by the way after an hour trying to get shots like that I was soaked from the knees down and had to go home and change clothes...heavy dew that day, I wandered all over a city park until I was soaked and freezing...
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