Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
09-08-2015, 08:06 AM
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Kino Precision Industries was founded in 1959 and they made lenses for Soligor, JacaCorporation (Panagor, Elicar), and Tapal International (Elicar).
Some Panagor lenses have been made by Kino, and could be regarded as 'early' Kiron lens, such as the 28m f2.0.
Others have been made by Komine, such as the Panagor 55mm f2.8 and Panagor 90mm f2.8 macro lenses. Both are also sold as Vivitar and they are clearly Komine made lenses, since their Vivitar brothers' serials start with 28. Same lenses can be found as Elicar.
I rate the Komine built lenses higher than the Kiron built ones; had 3 different 28mm f2.0 Vivitars and a 28mm f2.0 Kiron and ALL had sticky, slow aperture blades. Performance wide open left a lot to be desired. I use 3 Komine made Vivitars (28mm f2.0 Close focusing, 55mm f2.8 Macro, 135mm f2.8 Close focusing) and they're all fine both mechanically and optically.
Doesn't this Vivitar look familiar? The serial is 28xxx... sure the aperture ring is black instead of silver coloured but the lens is identical with the Panagor.
The Panagor 24mm f2.5 without any doubt is Komine built ;) Attachment 281496 Attachment 281497 Attachment 281498 |
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
09-21-2016, 06:57 AM
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Olympus OM2n & Zuiko 50mm f1.8 & Ilford XP2
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
09-03-2016, 06:35 AM
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Rollei 35S (sorry no Pentax)
Sonnar 40mm f2.8 HFT
Fujifilm Superia 200
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
08-30-2016, 03:55 AM
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LX & 8-element Super Takumar 50mm f1.4 on Fuji Superia xtra 400
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
08-30-2016, 12:56 AM
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LX & M50/4
LX & K20/4
Location: Schiermonnikoog, an island in the Netherlands.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
08-30-2016, 01:05 AM
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Revuenon 55mm f1.2 (PK mount) |
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
08-27-2016, 02:29 AM
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Old lens on a not so old body, just think it looks cool and it is a great quality tele-macro lens:
My regular Pentax 35mm collection: |
Forum: Pentax Full Frame
07-28-2016, 06:32 AM
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Well I finally bought a Pentax DSLR, but decided to go for aps-c and even bought an occasion; K30
Just wanted to be able to use my old vintage Pentax K lenses on a digital body since I`ve been collecting them while waiting for a full frame Pentax DSLR. But in the end I didn`t think my photography would improve at all by using a larger sensor then aps-c. So I went for a more simple design with less buttons, less weight, less volume but a fine reputation and quick in use. I`m aware that the K30 might develop a defect with the aperture lever (closing all the way down) but since I`m only going to use it with manual lenses that won`t even be a problem.
I do think it is a bit of a pity of the crop factor; the K20/4 is now a 30/4, the K30/2.8 a 45/2.8, however the 55/1.2 (Revuenon) acts as an 85/1.2, how nice. More then enough bokeh to play with in case I would like to.
Anyhow when I found the K30 body together with an A50/2.8 macro for about 1/8th of the cost of a new K1 body only I could simply not resist. I can imagine many more aps-c bodies will be offered to finance new K1`s so there is a great opportunity to get great Pentax cameras for very reasonable prices. A positive side-effect of the crop factor is that distortion and lowered resolution toward the edges of the frame are both limited. Speaking of limited lenses ;)
Shure it would be nice to get a FF body one day when the prices are more reasonable, just think it makes no sense to keep going for the highest resolution or lowest amount of grain if one doesn`t really need it. I mean who needs an 8K television? Do movies get better because of higher resolution? Not necessarily so I guess. For the time being I like looking at the K1 instead of using it, it looks pretty cool and the prism housing reminds me of the old 67, well done.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
01-06-2016, 05:47 AM
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Pentax LX & SMC 30mm f2.8
Olympus OM-2n & Zuiko 50mm f1.8
Minolta XD-7 & MD 35-70mm f3.5 |
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
01-05-2016, 04:57 AM
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That body has probably not been used at all:D
With the screwdriver I removed the bayonet (5 screws). Here are some hints;
-Behind the bayonet (and the black plastic ring), you'll see two flat springs. One on the top, for the exposure correction clicks. And one bottom right, for locking the film speed.
Take a good look at how the springs are positioned (or make a photograph), then it will be easy to put them back in the end. They are not small so no worry that you might lose them.
-in my case, the metal behind the spring on the top was a bit corroded/ dirty, so I cleaned it with a bit of alcohol. If it is not clean, obviously the correction ring will not turn smooth. I think it is ok to lubricate this part with a tiny drop too, but I didn't do that.
-I also removed the asa dial to see which part on the camera is actually moved when it is turned; it is a lever that is located on the right outer side of the
lens opening. This lever is what links the asa dial to the light meter. If you push that lever up and down, on the inside of the lens opening you can see that the lever moves
yet another ring. I thought this ring had a bit too much friction when moved, so I put a tiny bit of WD40 (with cotton stick) onto that ring -where it touches the non moving surrounding- to reduce the friction
and put everything back together.
When putting things back together;
-on the inside of the asa dial there is a empty space that holds the lever; make sure the lever is indeed fitted in when placing back the dial. If it is not in, the ring won't move at all but gets stuck.
-Take care the flat springs don't get trapped in between the black ring and asa dial, but stay on their place. If a spring partly gets in between no harm will be done but the bayonet simply won't fit tight. When placing back the black plastic ring; on the backside of it there is a little empty space to contain/ hold the 'film speed' spring in place. Again, if the position of the ring is not right it all simply doesn't fit well.
-There is actually a third really big circular spring (brass coloured) that attaches to the back of the bayonet, to 'hold' the lens. Its position is very obvious so I didn't give it attention, but when attaching the bayonet make sure it is positioned ok.
So except for the screwdriver you need some common sense, a little patience, alcohol, a cottonstick and perhaps a drop of wd40 or other lubricant. After assembling I moved the iso dial up and down a few times (8-6400 asa) and everything is working smooth again.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
06-22-2015, 03:55 AM
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Maybe this link might help: http://www.takinami.com/yoshihiko/photo/lens_test/pentax_tele.html
As you can see Yoshihiko has done some serious testing and the K105mm scores much better than the M100mm. At f2.8 it is sharper then the M100 at f8.
It is very close to the K85 in sharpness in fact, the bigger differences are the focal length and speed. I like to have clear differences in focal length and enjoy using the K105 f2.8 next to the K55 f1.8 and a K30 f2.8. Now if I could get the K85mm for a reasonable price I would not hesitate to buy it, but these speedy 85mm lenses -all brands- are a bit overhyped at the moment. I wouldn't regard the K105 to be a cheap alternative, it is so rare that the value is about double of that of the more common 100mm lenses (such as the M100). It's just another lens than the K85 and calling it the poor mans version doesn't do it any justice. But if I had two I would certainly sell one of them ;)
Talking about a poor mans K85 I would say the M85 fits the bill.
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