|
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
08-18-2015, 02:40 AM
|
| |
The Sigma 120-400 can be delightfully sharp if stopped down to f8, but is slow to focus. I have found it to be a very useful walk-around or hiking lens for when I need longer reach but can't carry my Sigma 500 f4.5 and tripod etc. Nonetheless, I have no bought the Pentax 150-450 and I would describe that as being better quality and focus speed.
Attached is a photo taken recently with the 120-400 (no editing except resize and taken with K5IIS at 400mm and f9
|
|
Forum: Lens Clubs
06-05-2016, 12:50 PM
|
| |
Here's a test of the 300 DA and Canon 500D close-up filter. From the top down:
1. 300 DA as is, closest focus about 45 inches (~one meter);
2. 300 + 500D with lens @ infinity, focus distance 0.5 meter (of course) = about 20 inches
3. 300 + 500D with lens @ closest focus, focus distance = about 13 inches (~0.33 meter)
4, 5, and 6, crops of about the same part of the image from each to see if the 300 + 500D records more detail (=better IQ) than a deep crop from the lens without the 500D.
NOTE THAT: You lose the distance between one meter and one-half meter when the 500D is attached. Once attached, the front element of the 300 must be within 0.5 and 0.33 meter (20 to 13 inches) of the subject otherwise you cannot achieve focus.
7. 300 + Kenko 25mm Unitube (AF extension tube), lens at closest focus. Adding this tube provides a focus range that overlaps the close focus distance of the lens alone, but it does not allow focus as close as the 500D. With the lens @ infinity and the Kenko attached, the focus distance is about 2 meters, at closest focus it's about 0.7 meters. IQ will be pretty much the same as the lens by itself.
My impression, the sixth image indicates better IQ with the 500D attached than a deep crop from a file from the 300 without the 500D, but judge for yourself, as every true PF member always will.
THERE IS ALWAYS A CHANCE THAT I MISSED THE FOCUS. I focused manually, used f8 (=probably optimum for the lens), but DOF is painfully shallow. Must I repeat the series??
|
|
Forum: Lens Clubs
06-02-2016, 03:20 PM
|
| |
| |
|
Forum: Lens Clubs
06-02-2016, 01:28 PM
|
| |
The baby Grebes riding on the back are one of my favorite things. An old one from me.
 |
|
Forum: Lens Clubs
06-10-2016, 07:05 PM
|
| |
A few evening shots with the 150-500
 _IMG1077.jpg by Ben McGann, on Flickr
 _IMG1089.jpg by Ben McGann, on Flickr
 _IMG1099.jpg by Ben McGann, on Flickr
 _IMG1105.jpg by Ben McGann, on Flickr
 _IMG1107.jpg by Ben McGann, on Flickr
 _IMG1113.jpg by Ben McGann, on Flickr
 _IMG1114.jpg by Ben McGann, on Flickr
 _IMG1120.jpg by Ben McGann, on Flickr
 _IMG1127.jpg by Ben McGann, on Flickr
 _IMG1128.jpg by Ben McGann, on Flickr
 _IMG1140.jpg by Ben McGann, on Flickr
|
|
Forum: Lens Clubs
07-03-2016, 01:38 PM
|
| |
Hanging around the garden, with the K-3 and DA* 60-250 plus F 1.7 @425mm
Tess has the DA*200 packed for a trip.
ISO 400, ƒ8, AV mode (1/60s to 1/400s.)
My garden and feeder compatriots.
 |
|
Forum: Lens Clubs
07-02-2016, 07:20 PM
|
| |
I happened upon a Great Horned Owl with two young who were good enough to land and give me an opportunity. FA 600
|
|
Forum: Lens Clubs
07-02-2016, 11:41 AM
|
| |
A couple of backyard shots. Two of the kinder gentle variety and the modern velociraptor
|
|
Forum: Lens Clubs
07-01-2016, 05:40 AM
|
| |
My Tokina 400mm AF, when the light is right this old lens can do quite well. F11, 1/1000s, ISO 800 on the K3 handheld.
Sparrow-2016-17.jpg by Michael, on Flickr
F11, 1/500s, ISO400
Redwing Blackbird(Female)-2016-3.jpg by Michael, on Flickr
I see no real advantage to the lower ISO. To me it seems the higher shutter speed trumps any advantages gained from the lower ISO setting.
|
|
Forum: Lens Clubs
07-15-2016, 10:03 PM
|
| |
Here are some shots with my old manual lens SMC 500mm f/4.5
 IMGP9739 by Mako_Elite, on Flickr
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Some more pics with my SMC A 400mm f/5.6
 IMGP2230 by Mako_Elite, on Flickr
 IMGP2231 by Mako_Elite, on Flickr
|
|
Forum: Mini-Challenges, Games, and Photo Stories
12-21-2015, 08:37 AM
|
| |
I think you can make some improvements.
9-point Expandable AF is good for sports and for distant birds, but I would recommend 25-point (Expanded Area AF M) for birds that are close enough to fill a significant portion of the frame, as in your shots. The camera has to be able to follow the point it initially identified when the tracked point leaves the center of the frame.
AF-A is not recommended when you know there is going to be subject movement. In AF-A mode, there will be some hesitation while the camera decides whether AF-S or AF-C is most appropriate, and you don't want any hesitation for BIF.
Shutter priority allows the camera to take a photo when you press the shutter, regardless of whether your subject is in focus or not. This mode is sometimes recommended for sports shooting, where a blurry subject is better than nothing. Use Focus Priority for birds, because a blurry BIF photo is not useful.
I would definitely increase your shutter speeds. 1/500s is very marginal for BIF. I find 1/1000s is reliable and it is my default setting. I would compromise on ISO first and aperture second to keep shutter speeds up. Motion blur may be acceptable on the wings, but not on the entire bird.
You're being too careful with ISO. The K-3 noise is insignificant up to ISO 1300 according to DXOMark, and quite acceptable in my opinion until ISO 6400, assuming good noise reduction processing. You will rarely see really high ISO values because your camera is usually pointed at the bright sky. Are you shooting raw? What NR software are you using?
The DA*300 and 1.4X TC is sharpest at f8. Going beyond that will decrease sharpness. I think f8 is sufficient for single birds. I would only go smaller if I was trying to get more than one subject in focus.
You haven't mentioned AF Hold status, which is the control that leaves all previous Pentax bodies behind. I recommend AF Hold High for tracking, but you must be very careful to ensure that the subject is in focus before releasing the shutter, or else you will have a string of misses.
I always use TAv mode and high speed continuous shooting for action. I recommend CW metering and +0.5EC for birds in flight.
You are correct, SR should be off for panning.
I have User1 mode preset for all of the above, so I can go from shooting stills to BIF action with just a couple of clicks of the mode dial and never miss changing a setting. HTH.
|
|
Forum: Mini-Challenges, Games, and Photo Stories
12-18-2015, 05:17 PM
|
| |
More eagles...
This was my first time out with the new K3II other than playing around close to home. Still getting used to it and trying to find the best settings.
|
|
Forum: Mini-Challenges, Games, and Photo Stories
04-20-2016, 02:18 PM
|
| |
It would have been better to get this shot in softer light, but it's nice to catch a moment like that.
 |
|
Forum: Mini-Challenges, Games, and Photo Stories
05-01-2011, 05:40 AM
|
| |
Was on a boat trip near Esperance over the easter Holidays and had the opportunity to take some BiF images - taken mostly with the DA50-200. Was stuck with the 16-45 on at one time for some of the Sea Eagle shots. - Birds are White Bellied Sea Eagles, Immature Pacific Gulls and a juvenile (still fledging) Welcome Swallow.
Don't usually multi post so please forgive this time.
|
|
Forum: Mini-Challenges, Games, and Photo Stories
07-25-2009, 08:55 AM
|
| |
My key tips for the BIF catagory all depend on the unique shooting environment you are in:
1. Try shooting with both eyes open for tracking.
2. I usually end up overexposing by a stop or two.
3. Try using a monopod with a ball head. Sometimes I`ll loosen the ball and shoot like that, and the stick supports while the head moves while tracking.
4. Switch off SR when panning
5. Use a mode that gives a quick shutter speed and a bit of DOF
6. I only use the centre point for AF. I find that if AF misses the subject It`ll start hunting the full range of the lens and end up stuck at the closest focus distance. If this failure occurs use MF.
Good luck...and I will put up pics if asked.
|
|
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
06-20-2015, 07:40 PM
|
| |
A few points to consider.
1. Faster and longer is better. But both cost lots of money. There is a reason why people buy 600 f4's for a very high price, or even the 400 2.8. If you want to shoot early morning you need a fast lens. And unless you can smell them, a 300mm is too short. Essentially you have to decide how much you are going to spend then make the best of what you have.
2. Technique is 3/4 of the shot. What I mean by technique is not only handling of the lens and camera, although that is important, but being in the right place at the right time to get the shot you want. It is impossible to get a lens and body combination that can get every shot under every lighting conditions where you can just see the subject in the distance. So technique is finding how to get the best with what you have. Similar to bow hunters; they need to learn how to get very close to the game. A 300mm close in can get extremely nice shots; it is very very hard to get that close in. Technique also means that sometimes you stay home and dream about spending $6k or whatever to get something that would allow you to shoot that day. So decide what you are going to spend, get it and learn how to get very nice results from it.
3. Anything longer than 300mm requires techniques and skills that take a while to acquire. A soft shot at 500mm may be either a crappy lens or be vibration softness. The 150-500 is pretty reasonable at f8. Look at some of the results others are getting with that lens and try to match them. I had one for a year with the K-5 and got some very nice shots. It has it's limitations however. I could reasonably use it four months of the year when the light was high. I live in a valley and it is dark from fall to spring. I found that in most cases I could get similar results with the DA*300 on the K-3 cropped. The 1.4 TC as suggested by Adam is a very good combination
4. Be patient. There are quite a few people here who have made the journey you are embarking on and realize looking back that they sold lenses that they hadn't mastered. The skill required to get a very nice shot of wildlife with a long lens is considerable, but bad results are easy to blame on the equipment. On the other hand, better equipment will get you better shots, but only if you know how to handle them.
5. A solid tripod may get you more improvement for the dollar than anything else. A flash extender is an inexpensive way to get a couple stops of light, getting better results out of a slow lens for not too much money.
6. Learn how to do noise reduction to your satisfaction. You may gain a stop or two of effective shutter speed or aperture by mastering noise reduction. It isn't trivial to learn, because to take it to it's limit you have to understand the noise characteristics of the sensor and the techniques available. It can make a very big difference for not too much money.
There are a few manual long lenses about that get good results if handled correctly. The Tamron 400 f4 adaptall is a nice lens, as are the A400's. The 150-500 is a nice lens as well. A long lens sharp wide open will be expensive even if old and discontinued for the simple reason that they are in demand.
I have the DA*300 f4 and the Sigma 500 f4.5 on the K-3. The new long zoom is very attractive, but I'd have to sell a bunch of stuff to get it, and I'm not certain it would be an improvement.
|
|
Forum: Sold Items
06-09-2015, 01:25 PM
|
| |
This lens with the AFA1.7x is definitely a good combo. The attached photo is good proof.
 |
|
Forum: Lens Clubs
03-08-2010, 02:08 PM
|
| |
Well, at least I can join here!
I put together a budget tilt/shift setup on the advice of RawHeaD (member around these parts), using a medium-format wideangle lens (which becomes a medium-long lens on Pentax APS-C) and two Ukrainian adapters.
The parts below are:
- a very sharp Carl Zeiss Jena 50mm f/4 Flektogon (in Pentacon-six mount)
- a Shift adapter from Pentacon-six to Pentax K
- a Tilt adapter from Pentacon-six to Pentax K
All acquired on "the bay" for ~$350 USD.
(The "speckling" visible behind the Flektogon front element is very common, but has no effect on the image quality.)
The adapters preserve infinity focus of the medium-format lens perfectly, and allow for a range of movements - up to 8 degrees of tilt or 10mm of shift in any direction. The "any direction" part is because each adapter (with tilt or shift) can be "rotated" around the lensmount in 15 degree increments while shooting. This is sometimes called the "Hartblei" design, since it is similar to their Superrotators.
Full tilt!
Shifted!
Produces some interesting effects, even though the 50mm focal length is a little long for a cropped-sensor camera. Still finding my way with tilt/shift, but I'm liking the effects so far.
 |
|
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
05-12-2014, 10:59 PM
|
| |
Good Evening (well, I guess that it's tomorrow for you down in Oz)....
Using a CPL on the 12-24 is a bit different than with other lenses. CPLs generally, do not work very well on the lens (and we are talking in particular about the sky), because its focal length. Beyond about 24mm, the lens is too wide for the polarization to really work across the entire field of view. It can certainly still be used, however the polarization effect will be concentrated in one area. If that is the effect that you are going after, then it will work just fine. In terms of removing reflections from water and other reflective surfaces, then it acts just fine. It also adds saturation to colors.
So, with that out of the way, I actually do have a CPL for my 12-24. I picked up a thin, low profile one just so that I would either not have (or mitigate as much as possible) the potential of vignetting. I picked up a Nikon PL2 77mm. It was not cheap, I think that it ran me a bit over $100 (also its the same size needed for the A* 300/f4) and that was a number of years ago. Nikon no longer sells filters - but I do have to say, this does do a stunning job. It is sufficiently thin enough that I have not experienced any vignetting with it. And, yes when used with sky shots, I do get the non uniform application of the polarization (and have felt that I ruined a few shots using it). You need to really evaluate the shot. Also, the 12-24 does do a fine job in terms of contrast and pulling the colors. Depending on the shot, having the reflection off the water can add to the image and other times detract from the image. If its a shot that you really do want, I would shoot it both with and without, so that you can decide afterwards what turned out better.
Hope that helps....
:cool:
|
|
Forum: Lens Clubs
05-02-2014, 07:32 PM
|
| |
K-5 DA 55-300 at 87.5mm
 |
|
Forum: Post Your Photos!
04-26-2014, 05:24 AM
|
| |
| |
|
Forum: Video Recording and Processing
04-23-2014, 02:44 AM
|
| |
Here's something I made recently.
Shot mostly on the Pentax K-30.
Youtu.be
|
src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/eit7lutUu28?controls=1" allowfullscreen>
|
|
|
Forum: Post Your Photos!
04-21-2014, 09:56 PM
|
| |
Despite a sketchy forecast I made the trip down south for the biannual Warbirds airshow. Glad I did because the weather held in the end and it was an awesome event. The drive home was clear too so that provided some great opportunities for some Autumn photos in Otago.
Hope you guys like 'em :)
Sunrise at Tekapo, our overnight halfway stop. Cropped but otherwise straight from camera.
RNZAF Kiwi Blue display team
Yak-52 Aerobatics
Aircraft of WW1
P-40 Warhawk
Pitts S2
Ground display
DH.100 Vampire, I love the design of these little beauties!
Aero L-29, I couldn't resist a small alteration to this shot ;)
All participants in the air race, L-29 L-39 and Vampire jets.
Vampires doing display manoeuvres
Recently restored MK.1 Avro Anson "The Flying Greenhouse" :lol:
And a few panos from the drive home, with the trusty Sigma 10-20mm F4-5.6:
Mount John Observatory (I'll definitely have to return with clear skies for some astro!)
Otago Autumn
Plenty more, but thats probably the main ones.
Cheers :)
|
|
Forum: Photo Critique
04-16-2014, 07:22 PM
|
| |
I thought I'd get some feedback. These are some Milky Way pictures I took in Death Valley.
I think the sky is not too bad but the foreground is too noisy. Seems I have to learn how to blend exposures.
|
|
Forum: Pentax K-3 & K-3 II
02-24-2014, 01:13 PM
|
| |
Thanks a ton, Ter-or!
I just found a guide Pentax K-3 e-book
Hopefully it's worth it.
|
