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Forum: Post Your Photos!
06-08-2015, 11:13 AM
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or just photoshop the light out.)
too much direct light from the projectors, ecept that, really good and good processed shot.
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Forum: Pentax K-r
06-04-2015, 01:16 AM
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thats a wrong attitude Ray.) I donīt want to think how many shots i missed because of same thoughts - there are people in shot, bad lighting, dull weather, subject not interesting enough, missed the moment, etc.
Ever shot shopping mall with 1000īs of people?) well count them on the photo below, that was a shopping passage in netherlands, rotterdam i think, sorry not an automotive.
Was a 2 min. long time exposure, IR, and really a lot of people(you can use some nd1000 filters instead). all PP done - bit sharpneing, lvl correction to get a bit more contrast, desaturating blue - thats all
In still Images you can just fade them away with a long time exposure around 30 sec-1 minuit, depending on lighting conditions. DIrect sunlight on people - depending on their closing and amount of people, you will get some ghosts / people in the shadow, or diffused light - you wonīt see any soul out there / shorter exposures - you will blurr them and make anonymus. There are hundreds of possibilities to solve the problem, or turn it into your advantage.
hey, and iīm using k-x, with 10$ tamron adaptall 28mm f2.8. would professional gear make it better? nope. k3 with 24mp, has different color rendering in IR, and some high end lenses, are mostly prone to a burning middlepoint in IR - yeah, i would still get very nice results, probably with a bit more detail, but they will be just different, and not better.
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Forum: Photo Critique
06-04-2015, 01:53 AM
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Thats the Bulb setting in the shutter speed. somwhere in the settings you can adjust how you want to use it - i think the standart is - expose while shot buttton is pressed. you can switch it to start exposing by first press of shot button, and stop by pressing it second time.
the most easy and professional way is using IR remote - same settings press one time to activate, second, to stop shooting.
marco, did you order the IR filter or ND? The ND is used as usual, but IR can be a bit harder to figure out.
Short crash course into IR Photography -
The first and most important is White Balance. The incamera white balance will give you quite a nice results, you need to search for manual white balance, and then set it, pointing on some green grass or leaves in direct sun. depending on your camera you will get pictures with 2 different falce colors - you will already get good jpgs. if you want to go RAW, itīll be bit compicated.
The problem is Photoshop, and Lightroom donīt have big enough color range, and you just get some 50 shades of RED images. iīm working with Capture one pro, it gives me all the color range i need, so i just need to adjust some contrast and sharpening. later versions of lightroom may do it too, but iīm not sure. There are some more complicated ways to do it with photoshop - just google it.
Second - metering. forget it. the only camera which metered IR more or less accurate, was k3, otherwize you need just test it out. set iso 6400, and try 1/2 sec., 1sec, 2 sec, etc.
What do you get - look at the histogramm or at the picture if it looks fine for you, shoot a good picture with iso 100-200.
And now the trick - rule of 60. To get right exposure on ISO 100, you need the time from iso6400 x60. So 1 sec. at Iso 6400 becomes 1 minuit on iso 100 etc.
Third - Optical Viewfinder cap. The light comes throught the OV is not to underestimate. You need a cap, for it, or smth else just to keep it dark. same for any kind of long time exposures
now how do you proceed
1) find your shot.
2) set up tripod, or anything else to keep it stable for a long time.
3) put your camera on it and adjust the composition(Filters are dark as hell, so you wonīt see anything) / adjust focus - autofocus, or hyperfocal length, on manual lenses - and then switch the focus OFF!.
4) put IR filter on, The OV cap, go to manual WB(which you have saved before), iso 6400, 2 sec - get the right time for perfect exposure.
5) Set iso100 and right time x60, switch to remote and 3s mirror lockup.
it will take a while camera to save the picture - 2-5 minuits, so donīt panic.
have fun.
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Forum: Photo Critique
06-03-2015, 07:28 AM
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you can do long exposures although during day time. Put hands on some ND 1000 filters or more, or some IR filters.
iīm using ir filter, depending on direct lighting you get different results
in the first picture there are a lot people staying or moving in shadow - no direct sunlight - minimal ghosts. 2 min.
second - second blurring people - shorter time, like 30 seconds, can make people a bit anonymus and informal, depending on what you would like to see - if thereīs even a blurred shadow of a person, other can relate to it and the picture becomes more attractive.
third - people mist, that what you get with direct sunlight, and a whole LOT of people. 2 min
for ir you will need some background knowledge, and pp knowledge. nd filters - just practice, it will come.
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Forum: Pentax K-r
06-03-2015, 01:36 PM
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if youīre not printing large, then thereīs absolutely no need in upgrading the camera. invest money in learning photography, and photography techniques.
the whole new world you havenīt discovered?
want to squise every last drop out of your k-r. get yourself a prime, no matter - brand new with AF for200$ or old manual for 20$, put the camera on a tripod, use mirror lockup(3s selftimer), and enjoy every one of your 14 mpixels. It will slow you down and make some good, since you will definetely think twice before investing 5-10 minuits in another useless shot.
HDR, Long time exposure, freezing with flashes, light painting.
professional gear and cameras makes your life easier - better IS, more dynamic range, better noice reduction, but they canīt really do anything more, than your camera already does - capturing pictures. well except printing larger%) and the IQ depends on how good YOU can use your gear.
donīt let yourselve in the technical dispute like - the sensor of k-50 does - 5-10% better IQ. if the photo looks good, you donīt care with which camera it was shot. if its bad, than not 5%, nor 50% better IQ will save you.
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Forum: General Photography
03-06-2015, 01:29 PM
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You Tube
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src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/YDbUIfB5YUc?controls=1" allowfullscreen>
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Iīm getting bit Confused.
Someone pointed for some time in a thread about sharpness to that Video, which says - APS-C lens on APS-C Body or FF lens on FF body= best Sharpness, or at least the really confusing DXO mark P-megapixel "sharpness"
Aps-C lenses gather more light on aps-c sensor which has smaller pixel pitch - means more detail. - still canīt bring it together, because the circle of confusion, which determines sharpness - are they smaller on aps-c than on FF lens?
FF lens has bigger light circle - less dense light on aps-c - less details? iīm failing on that.
Using macro equepment, lot of tubes, converters, etc. would i get with aps-c lens and such equipment more details?!
and does that mean that aps-c lens on ff camera would make most sharp pictures?
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Forum: Post Your Photos!
11-06-2014, 11:54 AM
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Hi, iīm an Architecture student, and Iīm starting a blog about vizualization, visual representation, and manipulation techniques. a part of it, will be about photography techniques, so it would be nice to get feedback about whats missing and what could be better.
it should although work as portfolio so it should at least have some level.
thank you.)
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Forum: Post Your Photos!
11-06-2014, 11:32 AM
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Hi, iīm an Architecture student, and Iīm starting a blog about vizualization, visual representation, and manipulation techniques. a part of it, will be about photography techniques, so it would be nice to get feedback about whats missing and what could be better.
it should although work as portfolio so it should at least have some level.
thank you.)
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Forum: Post Your Photos!
10-28-2014, 06:55 AM
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If you are looking for AF-Lenses, then you will have hard time finding a bad one. The whole thing about which lense perform best is overestimated - at least in that price range that you are looking at. In fact the the difference lies around 10% so i wouldnīt worry about that.
to clear your conscious, just look for some macro lenses reviews on forum, read some people liking and disliking them, and end up not knowing, what to choose.
as i wrote before, please READ some magazines or tags about macro shooting. the topic is enormous. it is hard to bring all the techniques that can be apropriate for you.
some examples:
Macro lenses with AF
Magn.<=1:1
pro - easy, no need in specific knowledge, biggest Depth Of Few that you can get in macro (bigger magnification = smaller DoF).
contra - none. at least in my opinion
what do you want to shoot - still objects or alive?
for still the 50mm macro is more than ennough, easy and fast to work. for alive objects a 90mm with a flash would be prefferable.
close-up filters
Magn.<=1:1
enlarging filter which are screwed on any lens.
pro - can be used on zoom lenses, AF, easy to use, cheap.
contra - Image Quality loss, but still usable on primes.
manual macro tubes or bellow
Magn.<=>1:1
are put between the body and the lens.
pro - can be used with most Manual lenses (AF bellows and Tubes are pricey), can provide greater magnification, cheap.
contra - light loss, mostly used with tripod, manual working.
Reversal Rings(Retro Rings)
Magn.=>1:1
A bayonett ring which is screwed on lense filter, so you can flip it. 50mm prime gives you ca. 1:1 magn. 28mm provides 2-3times magnification.
pro - really cheap, easy way to get supermacro, no IQ loss, no light loss.
contra - Small DoF, manual working.
For manual working you will need a old prime lense, no matter which one - you can buy old pentax lens with aperture ring or get a good m42 lens and put adapter on it. It is preferable to have a lens with A-M switcher or even better a A-M pin on the side, which automatically closes your aperture. Because of shallow DoF you will focus with aperture wide open and just before shooting, close the aperture.
And manual working means manual working - sometimes even the metering will work wrong, so you will need to compensate it, or work with Live View.
Iīve compared old M sigma macro to tubes, reversed prime and some enlarger- lenses on bellow there was no differance in IQ, all performed preatty well, the only thing that was a bit different is the DoF. it seemed on theMacro lense it was slightly greater. still on the magn. 1:1 it is to hard to judge.
first - magn. 1:1, Pentax FA50mm 1.4, reversed
second - magn. 3:1 Pentax Fa50mm 1.4, reversed on 65mm macrotubes and flash.
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Forum: Pentax Full Frame
10-09-2014, 02:22 PM
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I dont think Pentax future should just be in following the mainstream. look at the competitors, no one has jack of all trades. Canon made a shitty video AF for 3 lenses and decidet not to build smaller cameras. Nikon bringing at aps-c market same models for at least 3 years. Olympus are good at InCamera Postprocessing and IS-System, but sticks with ĩFT and BIG DOF. Samsung makes cameras, which doesnīt feel as cameras at all. And sony, well iīve just never liked its design..%). They all arent really trying to make their camera totally universal or just same good in their weak spots. mostly they are just working on stuff and developing new one that the trademark is known for.
Pentax was always known for its size and solidness. meanwhile it has much more things to offer than just saying, hey - we have everithing same, just cheaper. exept for size, we lost that one...))))
I donīt think i would talk for all pentaxians, but is a jumpy video AF really necessary? professionals still does it manual no matter how good the system is.
I would rather preffer a camera which is really good in photography or giving me an advantage of best IS system, best colors and dynamic range, or such a fiction as sensor tilt shift, than another "yeah sure, you can although make videos with it, and with few attachments camera turns into a toaster"
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Forum: Pentax Full Frame
10-09-2014, 01:47 PM
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ehmmmm... thinking different... a better poor-mans-tilt shift?
imagine a FF camera which has a fully functional tilt-shift-sensor system, so you can really make use of the narrow DOF. Guess how many photographers would switch to that?) Its unique and fully pentaxian. even if it goes only for 6mm and 6° it will still be a bomb.
although an appropriate adapter for middle format lenses, so you can use all funktions.
P.S. i want a stake on this one...)
although multizone WB is quite promissing, so i would work on that.
And maybe not only metering, but adjusting WB, Dynamic range, etc. Splitting the sensor in arrays which would be Metered and adjusted separatly one of each other and then composed and adjusted into one picture, geveng you better dynamic range and true colors. fiction and not how its working, but still... idea..)
some new software would be nice, not for the FF, but for aps-c cameras. Pentax is really good with double exposures and time lapse videos. for most hobbists, although a panorama and bulb-composite function that saves in raw would be awesome.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
09-28-2014, 10:07 AM
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Don`t push yourself into it. Yes, RAW has much more advantages then JPG but it really requires knowledge and time for PP.
For a real beginner it isnīt so relevant, in most cases you will have hundrets of photos, in which you will just adjust bit of exposure and contrast, things that you can actualy do with jpeg. You wonīt endure heavy stuff, like rescuing photos - if the photo is bad, not even PP can rescue it, in the most cases.
PP begins beeing relevant after you know what and how you want to catch. Although it is very usefull for some technics, which are actualy impossible without PP.
So, shoot raw+, and concentrate on shooting...=) save the best raws, and delete tons of junk(raws are eating space real fast, no kidding). PP only when it becomes relevant, otherwise you will lose yourself in it.
You should be the designer, your photos should be designed by concept - you should know how your picture should look like. Problems with PP is, you have so many sliders, and so many possibilities, that you loose your concept. - You are designing by choice, which Photoshop or lightroom, gives you. Looking different doesnīt really makes a picture better, its same picture, just different.
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Forum: Pentax K-3 Photo Contest
05-18-2014, 12:16 PM
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Its not my best photo, but I think it has a good wow factor. Most time i shoot in IR so the photos are mostly way to blurry and dreamy for such competition.
There are too many pictures of a dandelion. Fluffy, blurry, wet, oversharped, ripped in pieces etc.
Iīve tried to catch what the most of them miss, essence of a dandelion. That little explosion, bright and shiny, little world with its own unique architecture.
I shot it in the morning with a reversed pentax 50mm f1.4 on a tripod. The dew was already gone, but the seeds where still wet.
Hope you like it... :0)
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