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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
05-10-2019, 04:05 AM
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Thanks to all for your helpful responses and making me aware of the TC and adapter club. I hope that Pentax will one offer a new FF TC adapter this AF assist feature in the future
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
05-09-2019, 03:20 AM
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Is the IQ for the 1.7x as good as the 1.4x?
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
05-08-2019, 08:39 AM
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A review recently written concerning the Samyang 135mm f2 suggests that I can use a Pentax AF 1.7x TC with this lens to achieve auto focus for portraits . I have this lens and a Pentax AF 1.4x but have not been able to nudge this lens into auto focus. I don't think it is possible.
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Forum: Pentax Full Frame
03-30-2019, 05:07 AM
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Thank you for your suggestion. That sounds very plausible. I have the piece supplied by Pentax to cover the eyecup and now having read your response I remember reading this somewhere but have never had a need for this before and actually at the time questioned myself like " really, how much light can be getting in there". I know that 2 stops of light seems like a lot but over a long exposure it is accumulative and just a little light slipping in through can have a substantial effect. As far as my interpretation of correct exposure, it is done by lining up the exposure to be in the middle of the scale and confirmed by the histogram. From my research, sometimes under exposure can preferential for contrast but I'll remain technically correct until I'm better prepared to be creatively correct. Thanks again . Have a good day.
---------- Post added 03-30-19 at 08:35 AM ----------
Thank you. I am glad to hear back from you so soon. I was thinking about what I had written, and realized that my interpretation of the problem would have caused an over-exposure.
So, the mechanics of what is happening is that the meter says the light is good but in reality the light coming in through the eyecup does not reach the sensor during the exposure and hence causes a deficit. Got it!
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Forum: Pentax Full Frame
03-29-2019, 09:17 AM
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I am working through some techniques for long exposure photography as discussed in a popular book by a well-known author. When I meter the sky through the viewfinder of a k-1 with a 31mm limited, correct exposure is achieved for 1/8000th of a second @ F2.0 and by live view the settings for correct exposure are identical. I have my C1 menu for 1EV Steps set for 1/2 EV. Once I have installed the the B+W filter, I must increase shutter speed by 20 1/2 EV steps or 10 full EV in order to achieve a correct exposure ( what you expect for a 1000x ) an this is confirmed by the metering displayed in the viewfinder
However the image is underexposed by 2 EV. When I switch to live view, it is clear that the exposure is not accurate until I add two more EV to the shutter speed to get an accurate exposure. I use live view often, especially for very sharp focusing with manual lenses but even with a hoodman to view the LCD is cumbersome. Is there any reason why there is a difference for correct exposure via viewfinder vs live view. Thank you in advance for any ideas about this.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
07-01-2017, 05:01 AM
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I try to shoot Tav mode with program line MTF green buttons to program line defaults to but I am not sure if I should pan the camera for 2d action shots or just let camera track. I have followed steps for catch-in focus and it works great .
---------- Post added 07-01-17 at 08:10 AM ----------
OK. I'll try shoot more in the daylight so I can stop down aperture and extend front to back sharpness of approaching subject (running dog) while maintaining a faster hutter.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
06-30-2017, 06:27 AM
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Just curious about how the aperture behaves when using catch-in focus method. While the camera is waiting for the subject to move into focus, has the aperture has closed to the setting.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
06-29-2017, 11:23 AM
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This thread and the responses have been so worthwhile, I was encouraged to donate. Users who helped me have been kind, patient and a pleasure to communicate with. Thanks to all!
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
06-29-2017, 10:48 AM
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Could you tell me what your camera settings are to get these pictures? Is this catch-in focus? Thank you
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
06-29-2017, 10:05 AM
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Thank you. Following your instructions, I am using the k-3 with a Sigma 18-35 f/1.8 DC ART as it has a AF/MF focus switch and just as you predicated the camera does not fire until focus is achieved manually or moved the camera until something close came into focus. In other words, there is nothing wrong with camera just user error. In your first sentence second paragraph, do you normally use shutter release priority with burst mode? Or do you just prefer release priority? As for backbutton focus, I prefer that for the type of slow easy photography I have only done up until now because sometimes getting just the right amount of pressure on the release button is not as easy as BBF where only a maniac could too much pressure to cause a problem. But if using the half push shutter release button improves my action photography, I am confident that I can manage that, afterall my *ist DL does not offer BBF. Dabbing the button skill will be re-learned. Setting BBF custom setting chose AF-1, check! Centre focus point, check! But all of this applies to catch-in focus techniques, correct? I won't be on any soccer pitches for a few years as too many parents, understandably, show concern when there is an invasion of privacy regarding the children unless you using a cellphone which is a harmless communication device that can be used to pictures. I'll try practice with dog.
I will pass on to you some success I had in an experiment with AF-c, SEL 9 point. I first tried auto exposure settings as suggested by Ricoh which supposedly optimize tracking via algorithmic AI. It's almost techno-babble worthy of Star Trek. It worked in a fashion. But the I decided to explore AF-c settings so I suspended a heavy flashlight from a rope and used it as a pendulum. K-1 was mounted on a tripod at 90 degrees to the plane of oscillation. Set on P exposure mode, program line auto. I manually pre-focused at rest point with live view on 16x zoom, peak focus on, started the pendulum oscillation, and shot on burst mode high firing off 19 jpgs in 4 seconds. I believe the focus mode was set to AF-C, select 9, but I will try to interpret XIFF to confirm settings. I could clearly see detail on the flashlight in motion at 100% crop, the best results of course at the top of the swing. Shooting directly in the line of the swing, the results were increasingly unfavourable as the pendulum approached the camera but I will attempt this experiment again to see what settings can improve auto-focus on z axis. Based on the images of the equestrian shoot in the Pentax article , z-axis is doable with the lens used. Realistically my experimental setup system is more in tune with the leisurely, slow pace of portrait and landscape photography and not practical for the intense and too much happening at once atmosphere of sports and weddings. I'll leave that to proficient users professionals but with practice I hope I can photograph my grandchildren in action with images worthy of print. I have a few years yet to learn.
Thanks again
---------- Post added 06-29-17 at 01:14 PM ----------
Thank you, Adam. You are correct. Do I focus manually while holding done the shutter release and concentrate on composition all at the same time?
---------- Post added 06-29-17 at 01:26 PM ----------
Does the distance to the subject or focal length have any bearing on focus. I know that higher f-stops extend DOF but long focal length lenses make things appear to come together or appear closer than they actually are? Just wondering about Pentax Forum article on sports photography and in this case the equestrian event z axis focus is amazing.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
06-27-2017, 01:54 PM
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I have tried some test shots with 31mm on release priority and focus priority. I focused on some trees at 30 metres with release priority. Then targeted my dog at my feet and pushed shutter through immediately and got a blurred image. I repeated the procedure with focus priority and noticed a lag in time for a split second while it quickly refocused! So focus priority does indeed prevent shutter release but for an imperceptible time. Using different lens can result in more time to focus such as Pentax -D FA 100mm macro WR which often has to hunt for focus. My happy conclusion is that my cameras are fine but are subject to the limitations of the lenses. Thank you all for your help. This has been a productive afternoon but I am still plagued by how the shots at the aforementioned equestrian meet are so good .
---------- Post added 06-27-17 at 05:01 PM ----------
Thank you pshlute. AF button customization in camera menu is AF1 or AF2?
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
06-27-2017, 12:15 PM
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yes that is the article.
---------- Post added 06-27-17 at 03:37 PM ----------
Okay. Maybe I'm taking this menu caption too literally. "Shutter cannot be released until subject is in focus". Should not be released? I have set my points to 9 select AF-c . All on FPS priority. Backbutton AF off. I am not used to 1/2 push on shutter release to activate autofocus but I will practice. Now if I can get my lazy-ass malamute to move I'll try your recommended method using audible and visual confirmation.
---------- Post added 06-27-17 at 04:00 PM ----------
this is a post I copied "Release-priority always for me. Nothing worse than jabbing the button down when a brilliant composition presents itself and not having the shutter fire. Great shots can pass before you know it, and I would rather have a slightly unsharp picture that's only good enough for Facebook on cellphones than no picture at all." This has never happened to me! I get blurry images because the shutter always fires. I cannot understand why other cameras will not release the shutter because of poor focus whereas my camera is oblivious to state of focus. Have you ever had a case when your camera refused to release the shutter?
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
06-27-2017, 11:40 AM
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Both the k-1 and the k-3 always have shutter release regardless of the focus or lack of, focus setting (AF-s or AF-c), focus points (any configuration), focus priority vs release priority, catch-in focus or not. It is as if there is no discriminator communicating with the shutter release. If you can set up your camera so that shutter release will not occur, please tell me the settings because not I cannot cause this to happen. Of 21 lenses only 3 have an A/M switch. SMC Pentax-DA 18-270 mm f3.5-6.3 ED SDM, Sigma 8-16mm DC, Sigma 18-35 ART. I have been unable to prevent shutter release for these lenses. If one is using AF-c tracking with focus priority and nothing tells the shutter not to release because the subject is not clear why would one expect good pictures of moving objects. so please tell me the settings that force the camera to not allow shutter release because I haven't been able to do that. Thank you
---------- Post added 06-27-17 at 02:43 PM ----------
It was on Ken Rockwell sports photography and setting up a focus trap to leave the camera in limbo until the subject enters the frame then it releases. Sorry I'm not too good at links
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
06-27-2017, 06:56 AM
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I have a k-1 and a k-3. Both cameras have produced outstanding portraits, landscapes and architecture images. Now that my grandchildren are more active I have tried to use AF-C and the result has been dismal. I read the Pentax article concerning AF-C settings for the k-1 and it involved a shoot at an equestrian event. The pictures taken at this event are magnificent maybe even unbelievable but for heavy post processing. The lens used was the new 150-450 mm. My best results have been with the FA 100 macro WR. I suspect the DOF improves with longer focal lengths ( of course to a lesser amount than the f -stop). There are many on-line suggestions as to how to shoot sports but one by Ken Rockwell was to shoot AF-S with pre-focusing to the expected location of subject, set to focus priority, use rear AF button, disable shutter focus, and depress shutter and wait for subject to enter the frame. My shutter always releases and is indifferent to focus priority resulting in a blurry image. If I can get 2D images that are clear, eventually I may master 3D images approaching the camera. But up to this point, I have not be able to deny shutter release for out of focus images. It is possible that I have tried this only on an old 100-300 FA 4.5-5.6 powerzoom (black) but I think its a camera setup problem. Are there any ideas why focus priority is not over-riding shutter release. One thread discussed this but the suggestions were not conclusive. I would like to acquire the new 150-450 one day but I have I must better understand the camera first before making that investment. Thank you in advance for any suggestions.
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Forum: General Photography
09-02-2016, 06:50 AM
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Thank you for responding. I will take my time to digest all the iformation and I will take any opinions regarding photographic techniques that I have googled with a grain of salt. There is no emphasis placed on this by Bryan Peterson or that funny guy who schills for BH so I'll just stick to the books I've purchased. As for street photography, I don't understand why everybody and his brother can snap shots anywhere anytime with a cell phone but use a DSLR and then there's mass paranoia who are you, what you doing so I avoid it and sacrifice a lot of artistic opportunities. Besides, the aren't any streets where I live.
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Forum: General Photography
09-01-2016, 05:56 PM
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I have a variety of prime lenses and an app to calculate the hyperfocal distance. I have had sucess with the 31mm f/1.8 as the HFD is quite easy to focus on since the distance is easliy measured . I use the live screen, peak focus with a hoodman loupe and can achieve a remarkable depth of field. I have a Zeiss 85 f/1.4 and the app returns a much greater HFD. In order to focus at this distance, accurately sometimes 60, 70 plus meters. From what I have read, this distance must be quite accurate and the distance scales are hardly a reflection of the required accuracy. Focusing 1/3 into the distance is very subjective to me. Can HFD be used for longer focal length lenses or is it really just for shorter focal lengths and if it can used with longer focal lengths, an HFD is known by app or calculation, how do you know, to the required accuracy, where that is when you are focusing on it? Thank you in advance for any help or advice.
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Forum: Monthly Photo Contests
10-20-2015, 10:22 AM
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What are the camera settings for these submissions? They are all winners for content but some also have challenging technical aspects.
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Forum: Sold Items
09-03-2015, 12:01 PM
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Excellent collection of sample images. I never would have given up such a lens. I have the CZ 85mm f/1.4 but I rrally want a 50mm.:)
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Forum: Winners' Showcase
09-03-2015, 07:44 AM
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Forum: Monthly Photo Contests
02-17-2015, 08:42 AM
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I chose the one with that I thought was the most challenging exposure. I could have easily chosen the one with the least challenging exposure and it easily exceeds anything I've managed to capture. I salute all the entrants.
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
07-15-2014, 05:42 AM
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
07-15-2014, 05:07 AM
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How do i contact freeze frame with a private conversation
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Forum: Pentax K-3 & K-3 II
06-23-2014, 03:30 PM
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Pentax tech says there will be a pre-flash to activate but it comes before the shutter opens and does not contribute to the exposure. Unfortunately this is the least of my concerns as the power switch on the K- is sticking and requires service much to my disappointment having had he body only since March 2014. After 8 years of using a *istDL with flawless performance, I had confidence in the brand name and although I noticed the stiffness of the power switch since the purchase of the camera, I attributed that to the tight, weatherproof build of the camera and I foolishly charged ahead purchasing a battery of new lenses including the 31mm. Now to my dismay my camera is in the hands of 3rd party service who at this time are still under going training from pentax tech since they have never worked on this brand. I blame myself entirely for not researching better the decision to purchase and not keeping in mind what Corporations often do to highly respected brand names after purchasing them. The service and the quality of the product goes down and the profits go up. Es mi culpa.
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Forum: Pentax K-3 & K-3 II
06-17-2014, 03:51 AM
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I didn't set the flash to the first curtain as I did originally when I tested it and all had the instruction manuals. I had prepared notes for a kobo reader and had forgotten to include that particular step. I'm sure that was my only omission. I will correct my notes. Thank you very much.
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Forum: Pentax K-3 & K-3 II
06-16-2014, 03:22 AM
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I have a AF-360 FGZ and a K-3. I am certain that I have used the K-3 as a wireless control for the the AF-360 to learn how to do it but recently I was unable to prevent the camera flash from firing in sync with the AF-360 even though the camera was set to wireless control. I am also wondering why mirror up mode is unavailable for wireless flash control. I do have a cable that connects to the hotshoe and the flash and that seems to work perfectlyThank you in advance for any suggestions in these matters
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