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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
03-27-2024, 08:20 AM
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I got a K10D for "free" since it came along with a lens that I wanted on shop goodwill, "camera turns on and seems to function." It came with a charger, batteries, and two lenses - a Sigma MF 21-35mm F/3.5-4.2 in k-mount (which I wanted) and a Pentax 80-200 MF. I tested the camera, it worked, so I updated the firmware and tried it out. I intended to sell it if it was working properly. At first I was disappointed in the limited ISO, but reading comments online about the CCD sensor led me to try it again. Now I appreciate it more, but not as a digital camera - it really doesn't compete well with my K-70, K-1 Mark II, or my Sony A6000. The images look more to me like film images, so in that respect it competes well against my many film bodies (that I use regularly) since it never runs out of film and has variable ISO. Here is a recent shot: "Violet blooms on 3/26/24." "Violet" is a Zygonisia Murasakikomachi orchid.. Taken with my 2006 Pentax K10D 10MP DSLR and a 2013 SMC Pentax-DAL 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 AL WR lens. Shots recorded in DNG RAW format and processed in Lightroom.
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
03-07-2024, 02:12 PM
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I buy a lot of things used, but have also bought new (Pentax K-50, K-70, K-1-II, and some lenses, notably the "three amigos" limiteds). One reason in my mind for buying new is to support Pentax, yes, but there are others. There is value in getting new equipment, never before used, with factory warranty and all of the original paraphernalia. Where possible I've also purchased extended warranties, which you can only do new, and that came in handy for a free fix on my K-70 aperture solenoid. Buying new through a link here on the Forums also supports the Forum! But, I understand your point, there are good deals available on used equipment. You just have to weigh the various factors for your own values and appreciation of each factor, and decide for yourself. On your point about Pentax not updating their lens line-ups often enough, well I disagree with that point for my own situation. Once I have a few lenses in various focal lengths, I don't really need to continually update them. It is more important that I put my energy into taking pictures, and for my film cameras buying and developing the film. That will improve my photography a lot more than buying new equipment. In fact, buying equipment really doesn't improve my photography, it just makes things a bit more convenient. I can take just as good a photo (or just as poor) with my 1964 Spotmatic as I can with my 2018 K-1-II. Good luck with your decision.
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Forum: Pentax Medium Format
03-07-2024, 01:56 PM
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That's good, welcome to the Pentax Forums. What was the problem with your Pentax 645?
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
02-17-2024, 10:00 PM
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I recently got the SMC Pentax-FA 50mm F1.4 lens to use on both digital and film bodies, and have been happy with that. I also own several earlier manual focus Pentax 50's, they all go a good job.
Your opening post made me smile though. Usually it is best to ask that question before you buy it, not after! In a past business activity, my boss pushed a document across the table to our outside legal counsel and asked him what he thought of this contract we were asked to sign. The lawyer put his hand on it and said to my boss, "Tell me first, did you already sign it?" "Why yes, I did" was the reply. "Then," the lawyer said, pushing it back across the table, "it is just wonderful." "Aren't you even going to look at it?" my boss asks. "No," the lawyer said, "it's too late to look at it. I look at things before you sign them. Afterwards, it doesn't matter what I think about it."
Richard.
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Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
02-17-2024, 02:39 PM
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I've had a similar issue with lens profiles. I can never find any lens correction files for my Pentax lenses in Lightroom. I'd already given up. But this post inspires me to look again! And yes, I'm using the latest Lightroom and Camera Raw, since I subscribe to the Adobe Photography plan.
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Forum: Post Your Photos!
02-06-2024, 10:48 PM
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I got a K10d body essentially for "free" as part of a shopgoodwill.com purchase of a camera kit. I was after a Sigma -y II MF 21-35mm F/3.5-4.2 lens in Pentax K mount, as I have no full-frame wide angles in that range. The kit included the Sigma lens along with a K10d, original charger and two batteries, smc Pentax-M 80-200mm F/4.5 lens, bag, all untested. I intended to sell all but the Sigma if they worked - turned out everything worked and was in great shape, just needed a cleaning. I still have it all, and was going to list the extra items, but then started to read posts about the K10d and decided to try it. It was a little frustrating to use with the ISO limited to only 1600 (compared to my K-70 and K-1-II), and had second thoughts about keeping it. Then I had this change of thought - why not consider it a "digital film" camera? After all, I still shoot film Pentax bodies often, and I'm used to being limited to a single ISO, usually less than 1600. The K10d is certainly more flexible than that. I think the images have more of a film "feel" than my other digital cameras. So now I'll try using the K10d with the idea in mind that it is a film camera, that achieves a unique look to the images (similar to a particular film emulsion), different than a typical digital camera, yet it is more flexible than a real film camera in that I can switch the ISO (albeit in a limited range). It certainly has more flexibility in controls than a typical film camera. Anyway, I just wanted to share that. Here are some recent K10d photos I took, with the HD Pentax-FA 31mm F1.8 Limited and with the SMC PENTAX-DA F3.5-5.6 18-135mm ED AL [IF] DC WR.
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
01-31-2024, 09:59 PM
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Yes, that's true. For my cameras that support it, I usually keep them on spot center focus, that reduces some of the potential for the problem that you describe. I then focus on the desired subject centered in the viewfinder, then recompose and shoot.
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Forum: General Photography
01-31-2024, 09:55 PM
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Well, you are right that it is not a period appropriate match for the SLR in that ad, since the camera looks like a 1978 Nikon FE and the flash has a similar style to 1950s folding flashes. But I don't think that matters very much, if at all, from a marketing perspective. That point is probably not important to the manufacturer and their target audience. I think the "vibe of the ad" is stylish, retro, nostalgia, and for most of the target audience they probably couldn't distinguish 1950s from 1980s "old style" photography technology, they don't care because it was all well before they were born anyway. Just using film is very retro today. A flash that looks like a 1980s electronic flash, like the Junior, says "retro," and one that looks like a folding flash-bulb reflector shouts retro, so maybe they like that even better.
---------- Post added 01-31-24 at 11:14 PM ----------
After reviewing the specs, these aren't bad flash units. A little pricey, and since I have so many working legacy flashes I wouldn't need one, but many folks today in their target market would not want to mess around buying legacy flashes that may or may not work. The Senior has a GN of 14 (similar to many pop up flashes, and small external flashes) along with an auto sensor, several manual levels, and two slave modes, with built-in lithium ion battery. And, of course, they look retro, which is a big selling point. In the marketing materials accompanying this Amazon listing they show a TLR and a Spotmatic F, which would be a bit more period appropriate than the Nikon FE in the first video, if you care about such things. https://www.amazon.com/6000K%C2%B1200K-Collapsible-Reflector-Fujifilm-Hot-Sh...hoCgEkQAvD_BwE |
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
01-31-2024, 01:25 PM
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The Spotmatic most often came with the Super Takumar 55mm F1.8 - that's the way I got mine in 1970. There was an extra-cost option to get it with the Super Takumar 50mm F1.4 as well.
I am like you, I like to know what was the "original" lens or lenses offered with each body, and to get that if possible. I'd like to see your list when you have it compiled! For example, when I got my MZ-S, I searched for a year or two until I could find the lens that was released along with it, the SMC Pentax-FA 24-90mm F3.5-4.5 AL [IF] (2001).
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
01-28-2024, 06:09 PM
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I see, thanks for the clarification. The focus confirmation on all of my cameras is very sensitive too, I know what you mean. And on many cameras my old ears can no longer hear the beep, so I'm depending on that little symbol. But, then again, I keep fine tuning forwards and backwards with MF lenses on the older cameras as well. My Spotmatic only has that microprism, so it takes some effort to get focus accurately. The cameras with the split image dot are a lot easier, though in low light the later cameras with focus confirmation still win.
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Forum: General Photography
01-28-2024, 06:03 PM
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Just because you never saw it doesn't mean it wasn't done. I, for example, used a "Tilt-a-mite" type folding flash bulb unit with M3 bulbs on my Pentax Spotmatic for years, until I got my first electronic flash.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
01-27-2024, 07:14 PM
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Welcome to the forum. I too have been using a Spotmatic since 1970 (I was 13 then, so didn't buy it, but my family got it for me as a gift). I have many Pentax bodies now (15 different models I think, and more than one copy of some models). I used a K-50 for a few years, which had the same 18-55 lens you are using now. When I replace the K-50 with a K-70 (similar to your KF) I got the 18-135 lens. I've found that the 18-135 lens has been a big improvement over the 18-55, and only costs a little bit more, and is just a little bit heavier. The extra focal length is a big advantage, 135mm being equivalent to about 200mm in full-frame terms. The 18-135 handles about 80% or more of the focal lengths I'd need in typical shooting situations. And the 18-135 seems to provide a higher optical quality than the 18-55 kit zoom. I know there are better Pentax zooms and primes in similar focal ranges, but they are a lot more expensive and often much larger and heavier than the 18-135. So, after getting the 18-135, it turned out that I hardly ever use the 18-55. I use it now paired with a K10d body I got for free in a Goodwill sale.
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
01-26-2024, 10:17 PM
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Pictures look good! I don't see any focus issues - what made you say that it was tricky to focus? Did you mean trickier to focus than it is using the same lens on other cameras? Trickier than focusing with that lens on an old manual focus camera? I'm just trying to understand if there is something that doesn't work very well with manual focus lenses on a K200D (a model that I've never used), or perhaps you think there is a problem on your particular 200D. Or maybe you just had to work a bit to focus with a manual focus lens on an autofocus camera (I'd agree with you there!). I do find that the focus confirmation (little focus symbol and beep when you hit proper focus) is very helpful when using old MF lenses on an AF Pentax DSLR.
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Forum: General Photography
01-26-2024, 10:08 PM
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Hipster or not, the videos are well done and the products are kind of neat. I hope they are successful and lead to lots of people buying film. I want film to stay in production for at least as long as I'm in production. And, funny thing is, I never stopped using my "retro" flashes.
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
01-25-2024, 11:04 AM
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On a film camera like my 1957 Pentax AP, which was designed for preset lenses, you will get improper exposure in both cases. You need to use the lens controls properly, that is why they are there.
On later cameras I think the answer is "it depends." You didn't say what camera you are using with this preset lens. Some will read correct exposure on the fly given the actual amount of light coming through the lens. Others will not, and perhaps as a minimum you would need to press the green button and get the camera to sense the light and set exposure before actually taking the picture. Not sure about that exactly, as I've never tried to use a preset lens on more modern cameras. I know my K-70 and K-1-II won't get proper exposure with M42 lenses unless I use the green button. My Sony A6000, on the other hand, seems to get proper exposure with any lens.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
01-15-2024, 10:51 PM
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I think I may have one of the last "brass gear replacement motor" factory parts left in the wild. I bought it in 2020 on Ebay for $42, just in case I needed it - I had been watching for one for some time, and it came up. I have, and use, a ZX-L, ZX-5n, and MZ-S, so I thought it was worth it to buy the part if I saw one in case one of these cameras develops an issue. I also bought a replacement 645N shutter speed switch when they were still available as replacement parts, for similar reasons.
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
01-15-2024, 07:35 PM
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There are wide-angle lens hoods, both rubber and metal. I got this 77mm screw-in wide angle rubber lens hood to use on my SMC Pentax-A 645 35mm F3.5.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M5H0AQO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_tit...&ie=UTF8&psc=1
The rubber hoods are sometimes great, in that you can just leave them on and collapse them in the bag. But sometimes they are too flexible for me, and I only notice they are partially collapsed after I take a shot. I tried a rubber hood on my SMC Pentax-FA 645 45mm F2.8, but kept hitting into it and bending it, so I got a 67mm metal wide-angle screw in hood with matching 88mm cap, for only $8. Works great, but I do remove it when stowing the lens.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
01-15-2024, 07:19 PM
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I don't think I've done that exactly (i.e., shoot with a camera thinking there was film in it, when there was not). But, early in my photography life (back in the early 1970s), I know I loaded film in my Spotmatic and shot some or all of a "roll," only to discover that the film had not been secured correctly to the take up spool and in fact it had not been advancing that entire time. I only made that mistake once, luckily. So early on I developed a habit of keeping my left thumb lightly touching the rewind knob whenever I was actuating the winding lever with the right thumb. That way, even without looking at the camera, I could tell something is amiss if I didn't feel that motion of the rewind knob when I was winding on. I also made sure to tighten up the film with the rewind knob at the beginning of the loading process, so I could verify the rewind knob moving during those couple of blank shots to get from "S" to "1". I know these two things saved me more than once, in subsequent years. I thought I was pretty clever in developing these habits, until many years later when I acquired a copy of "The Pentax Way" by Herbert Keppler and I saw that he recommended the same procedure. So, probably most folks knew about this, but I learned it the hard way.
Another habit I think helped on the rewinding end. I always used the leather ever-ready case with my Spotmatic. To rewind the film, I had to unscrew the knob keeping the lower half of the case on the body, then push the rewind button and rewind. I immediately removed the film after that. If I wanted to leave the film in and rewind later, I'd leave the case on the body. So the leather case was a "tell-tale" on rewinding: Case on, film was still in the camera (or it was empty). Case off: I'm in the process of rewinding and removing film. There would be no point where I had rewound the film and left it in the camera.
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Forum: Pentax Medium Format
01-11-2024, 09:29 PM
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I'm not sure that wireless, multi-flash TTL was possible with the Pentax TTL system. To determine if it were possible, I think your best bet is to study the manual for the AF500FTZ (the most capable flash listed in the 645n manual) and see if that kind of behavior is described. I don't think the manual indicates that this is possible. https://www.cameramanuals.org/flashes_meters/pentax_af500ftz.pdf
However, the Pentax AF360FGZ manual indicates on page 36 that with the 645N you can use two flashes selected from the models AF360FGZ, AF500FTZ, or AF330FTZ, and run them in "contrast contro sync flashl" mode. In that mode, the flashes are fixed in a 1:2 ratio of output, with one of the flashes on camera (or cabled to the camera) and the other wireless. But it is my impression that this is still TTL metering. I've not tried this, perhaps others have and can comment.
I think fully wireless multi-flash TTL operation requires the newer P-TTL method that involves preflash communication amongst the flashes and the camera. If you read the AF360FGZ manual on pages 37-43, it describes this in some detail. Three pre-flashes are sent for communication before both flashes emit the main flash. This requires cameras like the MZ-S, ZX-L, and all later digital cameras. The older cameras and flashes (like the 645n and AF500FTZ) are not capable of this.
https://www.cameramanuals.org/flashes_meters/pentax_af360_fgz.pdf
Richard.
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Forum: Pentax Medium Format
01-09-2024, 08:33 PM
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Here is the 645n manual: https://pentax-manuals.com/manuals/medformat/645n_s.pdf
This is the AF360FGZ manual: https://www.ricoh-imaging.co.jp/english/support/man-pdf/acc_st_af360fgz.pdf
The manuals for many other Pentax legacy flash units can be found on Mr. Butkus's site here: Pentax Flashes, AF280t, af200s, af200t, Pentax AF220T, af160, AF330FTZ, pentax AF 360 FGZ, Pentax AF 400T, Pentax AF 500 FTZ instruction manual, Pentax flash instruction manual, user manual, free PFD camera manuals
Good luck with your deliberations. If you do find a good solution, could you post it here? I've not needed to do much with flash with my 645n, but you never know what you'll run into in the future. Thanks!
---------- Post added 01-09-24 at 09:36 PM ----------
That's good!
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Forum: Pentax Medium Format
01-09-2024, 01:39 PM
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In the Pentax 645N manual, flash operation is described on pages 62-67. At the time my copy of the manual was printed (1998) the top-line compatible flash was the AF500FTZ. The manual says "The AF500FTZ features a wireless slave-sync flash function." The manual says this only for that one model, the AF500FTZ. Perhaps the manual for that flash gives more information (I don't have it) on which other Pentax flashes may be able to communicate with the AF500FTZ, and if cables would be necessary. Many other models provide TTL auto-flash with the 645N (see table on p. 65 of the manual).
In my AF360FGZ manual, it says in the table on page 19 that you can do TTL auto flash with all autofocus cameras (except the SF7), but TTL auto slave flash or wireless control flash only with the P-TTL cameras (like the MZ-S, ZX-L, 67II, and I suppose all later DSLRs). You can do auto-flash (not TTL) in slave mode with all cameras. I suppose the functionality of the AF540FGZ would be similar.
On page 35-36, it says you can do contrast control sync flash with all autofocus cameras (except the SFX/Xn/7) when you use the AF360FGZ, AF500FTZ or AF330FTZ. I don't think the AF540FGZ was out yet when my manual was written, I suspect it would be included.
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Forum: Pentax Medium Format
01-09-2024, 11:15 AM
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Yes, I agree with all of your points. Perhaps the OP can pick up a used AF400T, that would be a good choice.
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Forum: Pentax Medium Format
01-08-2024, 08:32 PM
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Your analogy is not apt. It is funny though, I'll give you that! The utility of the flash has to do only with the film speed, aperture, and camera to subject distance. It has nothing at all to do with the size or features of the camera, the size of the negative, or characteristics of the photographer (professional or amateur). In your analogy, an outboard engine has little power, and would be incapable to move a massive ship like the Titanic to any useful degree. On the other hand, in the camera and flash case, even small flash can provide enough light to take a picture of a person 10 feet away from a massive 8x10" view camera with reasonable aperture and modern films.
The little AF200T is useful for on-camera flash only, of course. It has multiple auto ranges and several manual power levels, but it can't bounce and only has a guide number of 20 meters (ISO 100). I agree with you that a more capable flash would probably be more suitable for a range of situations, that's why I recommended the AF360FGZ. Still, I like to use the AF200T or even the AF160sa for "pop-up" flash situations like family pictures, because they are small and simple to use. For many situations, the AF200T could provide perfectly adequate and accurate TTL exposure for the 645n. Thanks, and Happy New Year - Richard.
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Forum: Pentax Medium Format
01-07-2024, 10:04 PM
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I like using my Pentax AF360FGZ on my 645n. It has a good amount of power, does TTL exposure with the 645n, and has more power, flexibility, and more modern interface than the AF280T. I imagine that the AF540FGZ would be similar, except offering even more power. Note that the newer model flashes, AF360FGZ II or AF540FGZ II, lack the older TTL sync that the 645N uses. The AF280T is a bit smaller than the AF360FGZ, and of course does TTL, but is lower power, older interface, and has a rather weak battery door - though it does swivel, if that is important to you. Check out the flash descriptions and reviews on the Forum here. Good luck!
---------- Post added 01-07-24 at 11:07 PM ----------
Another good TTL flash is the AF200T, which may have enough power if you are fairly close to your subject. However, you mentioned "dynamic" conditions, and I think the zoom adjustments of the AF360FGZ along with the higher power may be advantageous in that regard. In fact, you can set the AF360FGZ to zoom correctly for the 645N lenses.
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