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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
03-27-2024, 08:20 AM
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I got a K10D for "free" since it came along with a lens that I wanted on shop goodwill, "camera turns on and seems to function." It came with a charger, batteries, and two lenses - a Sigma MF 21-35mm F/3.5-4.2 in k-mount (which I wanted) and a Pentax 80-200 MF. I tested the camera, it worked, so I updated the firmware and tried it out. I intended to sell it if it was working properly. At first I was disappointed in the limited ISO, but reading comments online about the CCD sensor led me to try it again. Now I appreciate it more, but not as a digital camera - it really doesn't compete well with my K-70, K-1 Mark II, or my Sony A6000. The images look more to me like film images, so in that respect it competes well against my many film bodies (that I use regularly) since it never runs out of film and has variable ISO. Here is a recent shot: "Violet blooms on 3/26/24." "Violet" is a Zygonisia Murasakikomachi orchid.. Taken with my 2006 Pentax K10D 10MP DSLR and a 2013 SMC Pentax-DAL 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 AL WR lens. Shots recorded in DNG RAW format and processed in Lightroom.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
02-17-2024, 10:00 PM
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I recently got the SMC Pentax-FA 50mm F1.4 lens to use on both digital and film bodies, and have been happy with that. I also own several earlier manual focus Pentax 50's, they all go a good job.
Your opening post made me smile though. Usually it is best to ask that question before you buy it, not after! In a past business activity, my boss pushed a document across the table to our outside legal counsel and asked him what he thought of this contract we were asked to sign. The lawyer put his hand on it and said to my boss, "Tell me first, did you already sign it?" "Why yes, I did" was the reply. "Then," the lawyer said, pushing it back across the table, "it is just wonderful." "Aren't you even going to look at it?" my boss asks. "No," the lawyer said, "it's too late to look at it. I look at things before you sign them. Afterwards, it doesn't matter what I think about it."
Richard.
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Forum: Post Your Photos!
02-06-2024, 10:48 PM
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I got a K10d body essentially for "free" as part of a shopgoodwill.com purchase of a camera kit. I was after a Sigma -y II MF 21-35mm F/3.5-4.2 lens in Pentax K mount, as I have no full-frame wide angles in that range. The kit included the Sigma lens along with a K10d, original charger and two batteries, smc Pentax-M 80-200mm F/4.5 lens, bag, all untested. I intended to sell all but the Sigma if they worked - turned out everything worked and was in great shape, just needed a cleaning. I still have it all, and was going to list the extra items, but then started to read posts about the K10d and decided to try it. It was a little frustrating to use with the ISO limited to only 1600 (compared to my K-70 and K-1-II), and had second thoughts about keeping it. Then I had this change of thought - why not consider it a "digital film" camera? After all, I still shoot film Pentax bodies often, and I'm used to being limited to a single ISO, usually less than 1600. The K10d is certainly more flexible than that. I think the images have more of a film "feel" than my other digital cameras. So now I'll try using the K10d with the idea in mind that it is a film camera, that achieves a unique look to the images (similar to a particular film emulsion), different than a typical digital camera, yet it is more flexible than a real film camera in that I can switch the ISO (albeit in a limited range). It certainly has more flexibility in controls than a typical film camera. Anyway, I just wanted to share that. Here are some recent K10d photos I took, with the HD Pentax-FA 31mm F1.8 Limited and with the SMC PENTAX-DA F3.5-5.6 18-135mm ED AL [IF] DC WR.
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
01-31-2024, 09:59 PM
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Yes, that's true. For my cameras that support it, I usually keep them on spot center focus, that reduces some of the potential for the problem that you describe. I then focus on the desired subject centered in the viewfinder, then recompose and shoot.
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Forum: General Photography
01-31-2024, 09:55 PM
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Well, you are right that it is not a period appropriate match for the SLR in that ad, since the camera looks like a 1978 Nikon FE and the flash has a similar style to 1950s folding flashes. But I don't think that matters very much, if at all, from a marketing perspective. That point is probably not important to the manufacturer and their target audience. I think the "vibe of the ad" is stylish, retro, nostalgia, and for most of the target audience they probably couldn't distinguish 1950s from 1980s "old style" photography technology, they don't care because it was all well before they were born anyway. Just using film is very retro today. A flash that looks like a 1980s electronic flash, like the Junior, says "retro," and one that looks like a folding flash-bulb reflector shouts retro, so maybe they like that even better.
---------- Post added 01-31-24 at 11:14 PM ----------
After reviewing the specs, these aren't bad flash units. A little pricey, and since I have so many working legacy flashes I wouldn't need one, but many folks today in their target market would not want to mess around buying legacy flashes that may or may not work. The Senior has a GN of 14 (similar to many pop up flashes, and small external flashes) along with an auto sensor, several manual levels, and two slave modes, with built-in lithium ion battery. And, of course, they look retro, which is a big selling point. In the marketing materials accompanying this Amazon listing they show a TLR and a Spotmatic F, which would be a bit more period appropriate than the Nikon FE in the first video, if you care about such things. https://www.amazon.com/6000K%C2%B1200K-Collapsible-Reflector-Fujifilm-Hot-Sh...hoCgEkQAvD_BwE |
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
01-31-2024, 01:25 PM
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The Spotmatic most often came with the Super Takumar 55mm F1.8 - that's the way I got mine in 1970. There was an extra-cost option to get it with the Super Takumar 50mm F1.4 as well.
I am like you, I like to know what was the "original" lens or lenses offered with each body, and to get that if possible. I'd like to see your list when you have it compiled! For example, when I got my MZ-S, I searched for a year or two until I could find the lens that was released along with it, the SMC Pentax-FA 24-90mm F3.5-4.5 AL [IF] (2001).
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
01-28-2024, 06:09 PM
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I see, thanks for the clarification. The focus confirmation on all of my cameras is very sensitive too, I know what you mean. And on many cameras my old ears can no longer hear the beep, so I'm depending on that little symbol. But, then again, I keep fine tuning forwards and backwards with MF lenses on the older cameras as well. My Spotmatic only has that microprism, so it takes some effort to get focus accurately. The cameras with the split image dot are a lot easier, though in low light the later cameras with focus confirmation still win.
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Forum: General Photography
01-26-2024, 10:08 PM
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Hipster or not, the videos are well done and the products are kind of neat. I hope they are successful and lead to lots of people buying film. I want film to stay in production for at least as long as I'm in production. And, funny thing is, I never stopped using my "retro" flashes.
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
01-26-2024, 10:17 PM
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Pictures look good! I don't see any focus issues - what made you say that it was tricky to focus? Did you mean trickier to focus than it is using the same lens on other cameras? Trickier than focusing with that lens on an old manual focus camera? I'm just trying to understand if there is something that doesn't work very well with manual focus lenses on a K200D (a model that I've never used), or perhaps you think there is a problem on your particular 200D. Or maybe you just had to work a bit to focus with a manual focus lens on an autofocus camera (I'd agree with you there!). I do find that the focus confirmation (little focus symbol and beep when you hit proper focus) is very helpful when using old MF lenses on an AF Pentax DSLR.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
01-15-2024, 07:19 PM
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I don't think I've done that exactly (i.e., shoot with a camera thinking there was film in it, when there was not). But, early in my photography life (back in the early 1970s), I know I loaded film in my Spotmatic and shot some or all of a "roll," only to discover that the film had not been secured correctly to the take up spool and in fact it had not been advancing that entire time. I only made that mistake once, luckily. So early on I developed a habit of keeping my left thumb lightly touching the rewind knob whenever I was actuating the winding lever with the right thumb. That way, even without looking at the camera, I could tell something is amiss if I didn't feel that motion of the rewind knob when I was winding on. I also made sure to tighten up the film with the rewind knob at the beginning of the loading process, so I could verify the rewind knob moving during those couple of blank shots to get from "S" to "1". I know these two things saved me more than once, in subsequent years. I thought I was pretty clever in developing these habits, until many years later when I acquired a copy of "The Pentax Way" by Herbert Keppler and I saw that he recommended the same procedure. So, probably most folks knew about this, but I learned it the hard way.
Another habit I think helped on the rewinding end. I always used the leather ever-ready case with my Spotmatic. To rewind the film, I had to unscrew the knob keeping the lower half of the case on the body, then push the rewind button and rewind. I immediately removed the film after that. If I wanted to leave the film in and rewind later, I'd leave the case on the body. So the leather case was a "tell-tale" on rewinding: Case on, film was still in the camera (or it was empty). Case off: I'm in the process of rewinding and removing film. There would be no point where I had rewound the film and left it in the camera.
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Forum: Pentax Medium Format
01-09-2024, 08:33 PM
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Here is the 645n manual: https://pentax-manuals.com/manuals/medformat/645n_s.pdf
This is the AF360FGZ manual: https://www.ricoh-imaging.co.jp/english/support/man-pdf/acc_st_af360fgz.pdf
The manuals for many other Pentax legacy flash units can be found on Mr. Butkus's site here: Pentax Flashes, AF280t, af200s, af200t, Pentax AF220T, af160, AF330FTZ, pentax AF 360 FGZ, Pentax AF 400T, Pentax AF 500 FTZ instruction manual, Pentax flash instruction manual, user manual, free PFD camera manuals
Good luck with your deliberations. If you do find a good solution, could you post it here? I've not needed to do much with flash with my 645n, but you never know what you'll run into in the future. Thanks!
---------- Post added 01-09-24 at 09:36 PM ----------
That's good!
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Forum: Pentax Medium Format
01-09-2024, 01:39 PM
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In the Pentax 645N manual, flash operation is described on pages 62-67. At the time my copy of the manual was printed (1998) the top-line compatible flash was the AF500FTZ. The manual says "The AF500FTZ features a wireless slave-sync flash function." The manual says this only for that one model, the AF500FTZ. Perhaps the manual for that flash gives more information (I don't have it) on which other Pentax flashes may be able to communicate with the AF500FTZ, and if cables would be necessary. Many other models provide TTL auto-flash with the 645N (see table on p. 65 of the manual).
In my AF360FGZ manual, it says in the table on page 19 that you can do TTL auto flash with all autofocus cameras (except the SF7), but TTL auto slave flash or wireless control flash only with the P-TTL cameras (like the MZ-S, ZX-L, 67II, and I suppose all later DSLRs). You can do auto-flash (not TTL) in slave mode with all cameras. I suppose the functionality of the AF540FGZ would be similar.
On page 35-36, it says you can do contrast control sync flash with all autofocus cameras (except the SFX/Xn/7) when you use the AF360FGZ, AF500FTZ or AF330FTZ. I don't think the AF540FGZ was out yet when my manual was written, I suspect it would be included.
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Forum: Pentax Medium Format
01-08-2024, 08:32 PM
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Your analogy is not apt. It is funny though, I'll give you that! The utility of the flash has to do only with the film speed, aperture, and camera to subject distance. It has nothing at all to do with the size or features of the camera, the size of the negative, or characteristics of the photographer (professional or amateur). In your analogy, an outboard engine has little power, and would be incapable to move a massive ship like the Titanic to any useful degree. On the other hand, in the camera and flash case, even small flash can provide enough light to take a picture of a person 10 feet away from a massive 8x10" view camera with reasonable aperture and modern films.
The little AF200T is useful for on-camera flash only, of course. It has multiple auto ranges and several manual power levels, but it can't bounce and only has a guide number of 20 meters (ISO 100). I agree with you that a more capable flash would probably be more suitable for a range of situations, that's why I recommended the AF360FGZ. Still, I like to use the AF200T or even the AF160sa for "pop-up" flash situations like family pictures, because they are small and simple to use. For many situations, the AF200T could provide perfectly adequate and accurate TTL exposure for the 645n. Thanks, and Happy New Year - Richard.
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Forum: Pentax Medium Format
01-07-2024, 10:04 PM
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I like using my Pentax AF360FGZ on my 645n. It has a good amount of power, does TTL exposure with the 645n, and has more power, flexibility, and more modern interface than the AF280T. I imagine that the AF540FGZ would be similar, except offering even more power. Note that the newer model flashes, AF360FGZ II or AF540FGZ II, lack the older TTL sync that the 645N uses. The AF280T is a bit smaller than the AF360FGZ, and of course does TTL, but is lower power, older interface, and has a rather weak battery door - though it does swivel, if that is important to you. Check out the flash descriptions and reviews on the Forum here. Good luck!
---------- Post added 01-07-24 at 11:07 PM ----------
Another good TTL flash is the AF200T, which may have enough power if you are fairly close to your subject. However, you mentioned "dynamic" conditions, and I think the zoom adjustments of the AF360FGZ along with the higher power may be advantageous in that regard. In fact, you can set the AF360FGZ to zoom correctly for the 645N lenses.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
01-03-2024, 10:37 PM
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I doubt they would develop a new 645 film design. I know Pentax is niche market player, but the amenable market for a 120 film camera vs. 35mm would be very small, I imagine too small to make it profitable considering the development expense. I'm sure they consider even the 35mm film project to be a gamble. I hope I'm wrong, though, it would be very neat and I'm all for it, I've been a Pentax shooter for over 50 years, and have built up my 645n kit over the last few years. But, my MBA in Finance education tells me to think otherwise, unfortunately. Anyway, to cheer me up, here is a picture of some of my 645 gear!
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
11-29-2023, 05:24 PM
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There are a lot of older wide angle primes at F2.8, in k-mount or even M42 mount that might serve that purpose. Or the newer 35mm F2 and 35mm F2.4 lenses. Also, one of my favorite lenses, the 31mm F1.8 Limited, which I use on both the K-70 and K-1-II.
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Forum: Post Your Photos!
11-10-2023, 04:02 PM
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Two orchids. On left, "Violet", a Zygonisia Murasakikomachi orchid, and on the right, "Mahalo," a Rlc. Sharon King 'Volcano Queen' orchid. Taken Nov. 10, 2023, with an HD Pentax-FA 77mm Limited lens on the K-1-II.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
06-06-2023, 09:18 PM
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Yes. If you look on page 52 of the K-1 ebook (available through the Pentax Forums) you'll see a depiction of where the individual AF points are, and why the guidelines are there. The inner "corners" show the 25 cross type sensor area and the corners farther out show the area covered by the additional 8 sensors.
Not sure about the four corners in the live view. May be also area of focus points.
---------- Post added 06-07-23 at 12:06 AM ----------
OK, on the second picture you posted (the live view), I just confirmed with my own K-1 Mark II. Those four corners are the AF region, in this case the 7 x 5 = 35 contrast detection AF points are inside that rectangle.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
06-07-2023, 01:05 PM
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The guidelines help you to anticipate how effectively you may be able to focus. In both views (through the viewfinder, and the live view), the focus point chosen by the camera is highlighted briefly when you half press the shutter. It is always within those guideline corners. I found that if I intentionally framed the image such that an attractive focus point (such as a sharp defined line on the subject) was positioned just outside the corners, then I often got the lens to hunt for focus and maybe not achieve a focus. When I reframed to put that high contrast point within the corners, I often got a quick focus on that point. So, if you are having some issues getting a certain image to focus, you can reframe using the guide corners to help it out. I often just use center point focus, so I put the center on what I want sharp, half press, then reframe and shoot, so I don't worry about the guide corners very often. This is the way I learned focusing over 50 years ago with my Spotmatic (center microprism), and it is still the most comfortable for me.
I definitely recommend the ebook. I think you can get it free if you contribute to the forum as a supporter - at least it was that way when I started annual support.
Good luck with the K-1-II, if you decide to get one! It is an excellent camera. - Richard.
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Forum: Pentax Medium Format
05-25-2023, 10:52 AM
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Forum: Pentax Medium Format
05-24-2023, 09:40 AM
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
04-29-2023, 05:12 PM
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A few years ago I sent my ZX-5N out for CLA/repair to Garry Airapetov at Garry's Camera Repair here in Illinois. It had all the symptoms of a broken mirror motor gear, but Garry indicated that the problem was actually the mirror assembly lever. He fixed it and did a CLA all for only $65 plus $8 shipping. After looking at your link and seeing what is involved in repairing that lever, I am sure glad I sent it to him! Good luck to all with the repair work - Richard.
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Forum: Pentax Full Frame
04-11-2023, 07:00 PM
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The Canon EOS 5D IV weighs 890 g with battery. The EF 24-105 F4 lens that is sold with it as a kit weighs 795 g. The total weight of the camera and kit lens, in use, is 1,685 grams.
The Pentax K-1 Mark II weighs 925 g with battery. The HD Pentax-D FA 28-105 F3.5-5.6 lens that is sold with it as a kit weighs 439 g. The total weight of the camera and kit lens, in use, is 1,449 g. The Canon kit is 16% heavier than the Pentax.
In addition, the kit price for the Canon kit is $3,599, which is 64% higher than the $2,197 kit price of the Pentax.
Richard.
---------- Post added 04-11-23 at 09:39 PM ----------
The weight of the Pentax K-1 Mark II with battery and memory cards is 1,010 g.
The weight of the Nikon D850 with battery and memory cards is 1,005 g, only 5 grams lighter (0.5%). Many of the Nikon lenses are heavier than the Pentax lenses, however (Nikon stabilization in the lens can make them heavier).
Not sure what you meant by "5D and 6D" since both Canon and Nikon have 5D models. I addressed in another post that the Canon 5D body alone is lighter than the Pentax K-1-II, but with kit lenses the Canon is heavier. As for the Nikon models:
The weight of the Nikon 5D with battery and memory cards is 1,405 g. This is 39% higher than the K-1-II.
The weight of the Nikon D6 with battery and memory cards is 1,450 g. This is 44% higher than the K-1-II.
Richard.
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Forum: Pentax Full Frame
04-10-2023, 06:07 PM
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The K-1 is quite compact for what it offers. I think that is one reason why it gets the undeserved comment in most reviews as being "heavy" when it really is not. Compared to many full frame DSLRs with their typical zoom lenses attached, the K-1-II in use is actually lighter and more compact. But it has more weight per unit volume than many other cameras, so gives the perception of being "heavy" and "built like a tank." Well, on that last point, it probably is. On the LCD screen, I don't often look at it, but when I do it has the information I need and is big enough. With the hyper capability of the two control wheels and the information in the viewfinder, I don't really need to check the LCD screen in most instances.
---------- Post added 04-10-23 at 08:10 PM ----------
Oh, forgot to add, I think the grip and handling on the K-1-II is excellent. Even better with the optional battery grip installed, though then the size and weight does put it over the point that I'd want to walk around with it all day, at least for me. But if you are doing some intensive portrait shooting in a limited area like a home or studio, the battery grip may be just the thing.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
03-25-2023, 10:41 AM
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I started using my Spotmatic in 1970, at age 13. I remember when the K-mount line and the M line were introduced. Why so many new Pentax models in a few years? I think Pentax was making a strong effort to respond to rapid changes in the market. Shortly before that point, Pentax was the leading SLR brand (in sales), but they were feeling intense competition as the other brands were gaining on them with their bayonet mounts. Then the Olympus OM-1 made gains with the small and light aspects. I could imagine that within Pentax R&D there may have been two efforts set up, one focused on a new bayonet mount (lenses and bodies) and another on a response to Olympus. Unfortunately I don't think they ever had a team focused on improving marketing, which was the major advantage of Canon and Nikon, particularly Canon. You couldn't watch any TV at the time without constantly seeing Canon AE-1 commercials. I hardly remember ever seeing a Pentax commercial - in magazines, yes, but not on TV. As for me, I was in high school then college in those years, and couldn't afford to buy a new camera, so stuck with my M42 mount and the Spotmatic. Even when the industry went to autofocus I stuck with it. I reasoned that I knew how to focus and set exposure just fine, and the new cameras and lenses were no higher in quality than my Spotmatic and Super Takumar, so why switch?
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