Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
02-28-2010, 08:34 PM
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Hi Pentaxor:
1)Yes, this is precisely my point. I did not bring up IQ or distortions, but responded to the fact that others who did, only mentioned the ones which weighed positively on the 12-24. For example:
2) On your "word" "irregardless" --you should use regardless, because it would support your thoughts here. Irregardless, a corruption of regardless, by combining the 2 words "irrespective and regardless," actually says the opposite of what you are trying to convey: irregardless=not regardless. The word originated in a dialect and has persisted in use, though it is generally considered to not be a word.
3) Yes, I understand the forces which drive price in a capitalistic society. It is common knowledge Tokina and Pentax work together on lens' design. For example, this quote from DPreview: "Tokina clearly cooperates very closely with Pentax (and its parent company Hoya), and even a cursory glance at the respective lens lineups shows many designs in common." The 12-24's creation owes homage to both Pentax & Tokina. This fact, IMO, weighs heavily in favor of Sigma: Tokina can sell the lens for $399 in Nikon/Canon mount, and still make money, while Sigma sells its UWA for $480, for all mounts, and also makes money. Pentax sells its version, to its own people, for a substantial sum more.
Most of the costs for lens' design go into the optical formula, not into the mount. This is well evidenced by the fact of how easily we see people "converting" one mount to another with patience, a drill and a dremel.
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Forum: Lens Clubs
01-20-2011, 09:38 PM
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Baltimore Checkerspot |
Forum: Lens Clubs
02-25-2011, 10:17 PM
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These falls are about 150 feet high.
Tri-pod, f8, 18mm, 1/8th--hyper-focal distance |
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
11-12-2010, 10:55 PM
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I have had the same problem you describe with my K20d. I find the easiest way to get around it is to shoot RAW, then adjust WB with software which brings excellent results.
You can set WB with camera manually for each shooting situation you encounter, but I think RAW and PPing is, considering all things, best.
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Forum: Lens Clubs
05-07-2011, 06:51 PM
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Hey Class A, that is a fantastic shot! You make a great point about the new version, particularly since it offers constant 3.5, HSM, and better vignetting control. I should know better than to call 1 lens better than another--better is always determined by one's needs. Let me qualify my statement--both versions are comparable in MTF scores, except that the 4-5.6 enjoys a big advantage @ 10mm, in extreme borders. Also, 4-5.6, as you mentioned, has better grip on CA, & more attractive price. Finally, Photozone gives the nod to the 4-5.6 version.
This is a jpg, "stripped from the Raw" |
Forum: Lens Clubs
03-06-2011, 07:33 PM
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@ 14mm |
Forum: Lens Clubs
01-16-2011, 11:53 AM
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Chapel Pond--ADKs |
Forum: Sold Items
06-09-2012, 10:32 PM
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You are welcome! :) Here is a recent shot I did with this lens on 1 of my Nikon bodies. Hope this is ok--if not, let me know & I'll glad remove. No crop--f/11JT |
Forum: Lens Clubs
02-21-2010, 11:44 PM
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Thanks Jay, then maybe they could pay royalties to our forum, making it even better. :)
Ausable river in beautiful Adirondack park! |
Forum: Lens Clubs
01-20-2010, 11:15 AM
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Sorry about the mishap in my last post: the pic did not load. Here is another try at a post--I did not yet own a polarizer when I took this shot:
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Forum: Canon, Nikon, Sony, and Other Camera Brands
01-28-2012, 12:16 PM
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Here are some from a snowshoe hike I did last weekend. All shots were taken with a Tamron zoom I paid $125 for @ Keh. I love the D700 in ways I could never express!
JT 1st shot shows depth of snow: I am walking up near tree tops. :) Summit approach The close-focus is good on this Tammy zoom Self-portrait, with snowshoe and its strapping as a tripod unit--forgot the pod. :( Shot from summit while shattering my Power Bar (frozen Solid) with teeth. Far-away view |
Forum: Lens Clubs
02-05-2012, 12:10 AM
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Tamron 900mm Macro ;) No crop--No pods |
Forum: Canon, Nikon, Sony, and Other Camera Brands
01-28-2012, 06:35 PM
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I can not agree with your thread title: seductions seldom have anything to do with rational thinking---unless you are the one doing the seducing. :) My choice to leave my K20d behind, and pick up a Nikon D700 was based solely upon rational thinking. I think there are a lot of myths out there about FF. I notice Jay Sherman doing his best to dispel them, but they seem to persist.
1) FF is too expensive: Not true. I sold my expensive crop sensor glass & K20d, and purchased a d700 with several lenses--when the dust settled, I broke about even but had a most excellent D700. There are many reasons for this"
a) Many more AF, inexpensive Nikkor zooms available to user--28mm=wide on FF
b) Tons more old Nikkor MF glass around--MF=done easily & precisely on FF
c) I found this saying in my research on a DPreview forum "The worst glass on FF is better than the best glass on APS-c." Though hyperbole, the statement holds a high degree of truth IMO.
2) FF is too heavy: Fact is, the D700 is not much heavier than my K20d was, and with a fast prime, like the 50 1.8 mounted, it is lighter than my K20d and Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8 was.
a) There are lots of older Nikkor, high IQ producing zooms which are light, and which need not be nearly as fast as an APS-c zoom in order to provide as much shallow DOF. And on the D700 body you can actually utilize the shallow DOF because you can precisely nail focus, easily, at the widest aperture settings. Can we say Goodbye......Katzeye!!! another cost savings which still left MF a crap-shoot!
Can you spend tons of money on FF--of course you can, but the point is there is no need to do so. I have gotten free nikkor zooms thrown in deals with a flash (Ebay deal) which produce stunning images--far exceeding and more satisfying than anything APS-c ever gave me.
Do I even need to enter the discussion of AF? I think not--case closed here. The only justification for hanging onto APS-c, from my perspective, is if you are shooting wildlife. But, if that is the case, long glass options are not plentiful here in Pentaxia.
I could go on and on..... and on. Better to post a few pics, with cheap glass on the D700. $25 Nikon MF E-series 50mm f/1.8: Nikkor $50 AF 50mm f/1.8 model predating D series $20.15 Vivitar 28mm f/2.8 $35 Nikkor 28-70mm f/3.5-4.5 Amazing lens--fantastic flare control & precise AF $125 Tamron SP 24-135mm f/ 3.5-5.6 $60 Dollar Tamron Adaptall 60-300mm 23a Ultra-wide angle was most expensive $177= SP Tamron 17mmm f/3.5 |
Forum: Lens Clubs
01-02-2012, 07:33 PM
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1st, 3rd and 4th pics are sweet! Get those sensor swabs and give the old APS-c a clean sweep. Pic 4 is lovely, but the blob'o dust does detract some. :)
Thank God, the thought of you steering down the road, manually focusing the 23a @ 200mm is too much for me. All I can hear is CRAAASSSSSHHH!! :D Here are a few from my 23a, on the D700 sensor. 1st shot at minimum focus distance and 300mm. |
Forum: Lens Clubs
12-26-2011, 10:59 PM
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Hello and happy holidays to all. I am looking through the most recent donations to the thread with amazed and happy eyes--such good work, by so many. For example, cool factory immediately above me Mr Designosophy, lovely tree Mark lj, great bridges JinDEsu, stunning seascape Falke, beautiful beaches ericR, splendid lighthouse Guinessman, and a marvelous cityscape from pinholecam! And this is only on this page. :) Unbelievable. I'm not sure how, but the bar keeps getting raised. This is interesting, because the glass has not changed. It is great to belong to this forum, to this thread, and to be carried and lifted to new levels by the collective genius and strength of the participants.
Thank you, to everyone, for the contributions--I am thrilled.
JT
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Forum: Lens Clubs
11-13-2011, 12:23 PM
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Nanhi:
A lot people think this, but it is not true anymore. I think this is one of the pseudo facts which lingers from Photography of years past. The fact is there are sharp UWAs, many of them--and you do not have to be @ f/8 or f/11. For example, the Tokina f/2.8 11-16 is very sharp, wide open even--take a look over @ Photozone. But even our little treasure here, the Sigma 10-20, is sharp wider than f/8. Just as a for example, here is the MTF chart for the Sigma 10-20 f/4-5.6 (Canon APS-c) on a 8mp body
JT |
Forum: Lens Clubs
09-20-2011, 08:03 PM
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It looks mighty good from here. JT Flash--no crop--no pods |
Forum: Lens Clubs
09-03-2011, 07:27 AM
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Quote: Fantastic shot--great light & composition.
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Forum: Lens Clubs
09-03-2011, 07:31 AM
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It seems like each time I return to this thread I find the bar raised again--it is simply amazing what you guys are doing with this glass.
Dr. Romix, what can I say, just lovely photography. The most recent one of the Trevi Fountain is splendid. The lighting on the Colosseum shot is gorgeous! I see why they call you the Dr. :)
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
02-27-2010, 05:56 PM
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It isn't about which lens is best--it is about which lens is best for YOU, and your needs, which change from individual to individual. For example, do you need a constant aperture, faster lens? For the lenses you are considering, do you already have some of the focal ranges covered? Which end of the range (long or short) better complements your shooting style? Are you already used to and sold on a particular brand? These are just some of the questions you need to answer, before you can decide which lens is best for you.
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Forum: Lens Clubs
08-05-2011, 08:16 PM
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These are 2 excellent questions. This is, I think, one of those situations where the practice is much easier than the theory. In theory, it sounds like you need to perfectly align the midpoint of the filter up, exactly with the horizon. Fortunately, it is not like this. Firstly, I bought a ND Grad “soft,” which means the transition from clear glass to darkened glass is more gradual than the ND “hard.” One of the most popular uses for this filter is when you want to even the exposure for the sky with that of the foreground. In these cases, the horizon is usually even, or near enough so. And even if it isn’t, it really does not negatively affect the final exposure.
And as you have correctly guessed, using a screw-on filter has limitations, however, for my applications they did not get in my way. Remember, it is often desirable to have a half-sky vs. half-foreground composition when you are shooting Sun sets & rises. The limitation is you need to compose in such a way as to have only sky shielded by grayed, filter area, and the foreground seen through only clear glass. But the filter is graduated, so there is an area in between, though small, which allows you to compose favoring either a little more sky, or a little more foreground, depending upon he light and how it impacts the composition. For example, shooting a sun rise over a lake, the Sun often hits the edge of the lake closest to it & causes a bright reflection off the water. In this case, you’ll be using the in-between area of the filter to cover that part of the lake, thus easing the transition of the ND effect.
Also. If you choose t modify this 50/50 composition, you can do so with cropping. With these modern DSLRs, equipped with 12 and more Mps, it is a cinch to crop a third of either the sky or foreground away to reach the desired effect. Again, in practice this is all so much easier than I make it sound here. You just need to do it, and it becomes easy, 2nd nature. Try it, you’ll like it. :)
Sorry, wish I could have said all this is a sentence or 2. :)
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Forum: Lens Clubs
07-17-2011, 06:11 PM
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Okay, here are 2 from a recent hike--151b on full frame: |
Forum: Lens Clubs
02-06-2010, 07:40 PM
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It took me a while to understand and appreciate the lens, more so than any other lens with which I've shot. But now, I am in love--the more I use it the more use I see for it. It really makes taking pictures even more fun than it already is--hard to believe! F8, 1/30th, 10mm, ISO100 |
Forum: Lens Clubs
06-10-2011, 09:17 PM
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Here is 1 @ 12mm, 1/5th, tri-pod |
Forum: Lens Clubs
06-08-2011, 08:30 AM
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