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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
09-14-2015, 06:37 PM
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It is so called "component cable". The cable you have shown the RCA jacks that in Red, Green and Blue which goes to your TV (or DVR) component input Pr, Pb and Y input. They are color coded so just matching them when use it. Although it is none standard but few manufactures use it. I seen it from some model of Camcorder made by Canon, Panasonics and JVC.
HDMI and DisplayPort need lot more pins. This one only has 10 pins. Some cable I seen also double as USB port which make sense as pin count goes.
Which camera you got it with? Looking for a trap door. The port maybe hide behind a rubber flap.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
02-25-2015, 07:58 PM
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Did you try to set "Release when Charging" in the Custom Setting Menu? The default is OFF. This should allow you to use the camera with internal flash is up regardless if flash is working or not.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
12-16-2014, 03:04 PM
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Is K10D has flash compensation? Flash compensation reduce (or increase) the flash output.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
12-16-2014, 02:56 PM
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I check the manual from online for K200D, it has proper disassemble procedure but did not show much of mechanism that you are interest of.
First, you do not need to remove back cover and finder. I think you can skip to the front cover after top and bottom are removed.
Here are couple of pictures from K-m which the AF/MF switch and mechanical structure are exposed for your reference.
(the picture was taken with lens mount removed. It is not necessary in you case since the pin does retract when button is pressed.) (I did not remove the top cover first few time I disassemble my K-m/2000. It is lot easier if the top is removed. Learn by mistake...)
The small slot at right, next to bigger screw, in first picture is where the slider metal part at front cover AF/MF slider should engaged. The long bending metal is for lens button. The second picture shown the AF/MF switch. It also shown the slot below AF pin. The plastic slides toward right to push the AF/MF switch when in MF. It also push the AF screw pin downward The K200D looks similar as far as I can tell.
I did repair the AF switch once on another K-m. It was one of those "electrical lubricant" type of problem. Clean up and if works again. The switch is so tiny it require operate under microscope. Hope you don't need to go there.
The bigger PCB and big cap is the flash circuitry. The K200D has it behind metal bracket so it is little more safe. Be aware of high voltage still. Discharge the cap per manual.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
12-15-2014, 04:10 PM
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When you move the AF switch, does the pin retract? If not, likely be very simple to fix.
Let me clear couple of things:
1. the AF.S should change to MF if changed to manual focus. That is what confirm the electrical switch does work.
2. The both mechanical and electrical mechanism are operate by same slider. So, there still a chance the switch is bad and mechanical also defect.
3. The slider has a piece of metal that engage with the mechanism for both switch and pin retracting assembly. This thin piece of metal can jump off the slot which make slider none functional. The retracing assembly are the same for lens release, so we can say most part of it is ok. Putting back the front cover carefully and hold it down tight when secure with screws. It is easy to miss it.
Since I don't have a K200D, I don't know exact how to properly disassemble it. I can list what I know about K-m I have (learn from try and error ) if that helps.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
12-15-2014, 01:30 PM
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And, there is a switch operate by the push pin from seat of external flash to prevent internal flash from popping when an external flash is installed. I think this contact is on the same circuit as the position switch, if I remember them right...
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
12-12-2014, 06:41 PM
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The pin is close to the AF/MF switch. Its tip is look like end a flat screw driver. The way it work is, on AF mode it is above the mounting ring (bayonet) which allow it engage with lens screw drive. You can grab and turn it with your finger nails. When in the MF mode the pin retract back under mounting surface that allow the lens focus ring to turn freely. If it is not retract, that is the problem. If the LCD display does not shown MP when you switch to it, likely just the switch slider is off (plastic, not actual electrical switch).
Typically (since I don't have a K200D), the top and bottom need to removed first then the front cover. Be aware there maybe two screws next to the finder under rubber eye cup and one screw in flash cavity (need to pop the flash first before you remove the battery.)
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
12-12-2014, 06:02 PM
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Looks to me the mirror is fine. It flips on demand. It is the shutter not opening. That maybe why the Live View is dark.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
11-30-2014, 11:24 PM
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Follow up on the flash in green mode:
End up when the popping the flash did not change the shutter speed is cause by the "auto pict" switched to night scene portrait mode which switched to slow sync mode. Just missed that green symbol.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
11-25-2014, 05:12 PM
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Same for a K-m. The manually popped flash in "green mode" (auto pict) changed shutter speed to 1/45 and aperture remains same. This is the same behavior as with auto-pop.
I did have one occasion that auto-pop did not change shutter speed and became over exposure, but does change if I popped it manually. It stay with that behavior even after few camera off/on cycle. It went away after I changed to force flash from menu and back to auto flash. I think it was a firmware problem.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
11-24-2014, 12:58 PM
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It may work for a while when damage is done util the loose part got stuck somewhere in the gear box. Looks like send for repair is the only option now.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
11-19-2014, 06:53 PM
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I am more curious about this part of coil spring in pictures. For one, they are different in photos you posted which indicate there is something loose in the gear box. Second, it looks like part of linear gear on the slider. I think something is broken. Likely some broken parts got stuck on one of the gear to prevent it from move.
The traveler engage with aperture lever on the lens but not very easy to wear out. My K-m is fairly new as it is acquired lately (as with broken AF but very low shutter count. I fixed AF). It also possible that Pentax "improved" for K-r. K-m is an older model.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
11-17-2014, 09:25 PM
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Sorry, here is the photo (the browser does not like me...:mad:
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
11-17-2014, 07:16 PM
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That is correct. That is the first part of the post I point out. It is normal when the mirror is up. I don't have another camera handy to take picture to shown right now.
The picture I attached is the extra piece shown on third photo from michaelwoodcock's post which looks like broke away from the slider. It is not shown on other photos so possible is a loose piece. The teeth are the part engage with a gear wheel that push slider travel on the shaft.
Ok, here is a shot of my K-m which has similar structure. The end of a spring stick out when mirror is up. The slider travel all the way to the right(top).
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
11-17-2014, 05:07 PM
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The "spingy" thing is one leg of a spring that is part of gear box. When I do a "B" shutter I can see it stick up there when mirror is up, as your picture shown. I am not sure the actuator is correct or not. It will depends on the aperture setting when the mirror got stuck. Although the gears for actuator and mirror are independent but they do drive by the same motor.
Did you use any "lens adapter" by any chance? An improper placed aperture lever my force the aperture traveler too much and has it bite on the shaft. Also, one spot at return coil spring does look suspicious. It looks like part of gear that is part of traveler.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
10-17-2014, 03:39 PM
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Did you check if the new file folder is became hidden?
Under Windows 7, file explorer->Organize->Folder & search Options->view check the "Show hidden files, folders or drives".
Not sure if the camera has capability to set folder/file as hidden but just a possibility.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
10-02-2014, 11:32 AM
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The OTG port at tablet can be either in host mode or device mode. The camera is always a device. When connect the camera to a OTG port directly with a OTG cable, be sure the host side is to the tablet and device side is camera. Since the K-30 has a combo Video/PC port instead of standard USB port and tablet has Micro USB port, you would need to find right cable or use adapter to make it work. (The cable came with camera is standard USB type-A plug on other end.)
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
10-01-2014, 12:03 PM
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Not sure about the K-x but in K-m the AF/MF switch is mounted on a tiny circuit board that only has the switch and two wires connected to.
My K-m act exact like that a month ago. I open the front up and checked connectivity of switch, for sure it is comes and go. (AF should be close and MF open) The switch has bad contact. Brave enough, I open the switch to fix it. The contact of switch really just a coil spring between two copper plates which also serve as soldering terminals. Clean the copper plates and re-seat the spring fixed problem.
The switch is about 4 mm x 3 mm in size and 1 mm thick, I have to use microscope to perform the work. A steady hand also very important.
Confirm the switch with debug mode first.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
09-29-2014, 03:19 PM
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Check the voltage of battery. If the battery been over drain (very low voltage), the charger may stop charging by protect itself from over current. I normally deal with such with a trickle charge a dumb charger with the same rating as the battery) to give it a boost before put back to regular charger. Sometime (not always) it will bring it back to service.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
09-26-2014, 05:57 PM
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Since the under exposure problem been observed by so many and on various models. I would like to share my experience of fixing a K-2000 "dark" picture problem here and hope that can help the fix-itselfers.
This is what it look like: (view from right side of body. The right side of picture is front of camera where lens is attached)
From bottom is the motor. It just a linear DC motor that drives a gear box. In the gear box there is a timing wheel which engage with a optical interrupter. Join together that controls the position and speed. The gears (and more inside) above that engaged with mirror and aperture actuator. The movement of aperture actuator also controlled by a solenoid above the gear box. This was where my problem started. The actuator of solenoid did not retreat which cause aperture fire at wrong time and at wrong position when mirror is flipped. The coil box of solenoid got slide off from the metal frame. The coil box is made of plastic and is positioned to the frame with two plastic "hooks" that got loose because not have enough (or no) sealant. Slide it back and add little glue fixed it.
I will guess this is most of "dark" picture issue is originated by looking at this weak structure of solenoid assembly design. Other part of gear box works fine. I abused them lot while trying to diagnose this problem and they all held very well.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
09-23-2014, 01:54 PM
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It can be a mirror and shutter synchronization issue. In live view the shutter is already open, mirror is up and aperture set, just snap a frame of picture (electronically). In view finder mode, the shutter need to open, mirror got up and aperture set at same time when shutter is pressed, and picture captured. One or more of these is out of sync can render a black or darker picture.
Black: shutter and mirror is out of sync.
Darker: shutter/mirror and aperture is out of sync.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
09-23-2014, 11:48 AM
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I had a similar problem when I was repairing my K-2000.
The issue was the mirror/shutter is out of sync with aperture actuator. Somehow the gear box got into wrong state which the mirror flip and aperture actuator is not firing at same time. The actuator actually moves to fully closed position even the aperture been set to wide open. This is the way the mechanism works to calibrate aperture position by fully close the aperture first then set to the dialed aperture instead of simply travel from the full open position to dialed aperture. ( you can see that from the lens as advised before)
The problem was, there is a solenoid that controls when actuator engage to the gears. It became sticky. The one I have actually is out of position which not allow it to retreat (a self-inflicted wound :o). Push the solenoid actuator back (not aperture actuator that you can see from the mirror box, this one is inside of body) fixed my problem. Yours likely is freeze to the rest position instead which few shocks (take first few picture) loose it up.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
09-22-2014, 05:36 PM
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The focus switch has two parts: a electrical switch and a mechanical spindle.
The electrical switch can be checked in the switch menu at debug mode, to confirm its position. The switch is mounted on a small PCB and wired out to main PC board. (check other posts for how to enable debug screen). Since you are good on electrical, yes it is not too hard to do if it just the switch. You can find service manuals online that similar to K200D for tear down. Just be careful for all the flexible cables and be sure discharge the flash cap. Zap by few hundred volts may not be biggy but may zap other electronic while doing that. (The flash sub PCBA just nearby the focus switch)
Mechanical wise, the spindle is the one engage with the lens's screw drive. It is easy to check by remove the lens and look at screw drive spindle on the body at mounting ring. In auto focus mode it should stick out and manual focus it will retrieve (level with the mounting ring). If the spindle does not retrieve, try push the spindle down see if it is frozen. It should feel like spring loaded. If switch to manual won't allow you turn the focus ring that also indicate the spindle did not retrieve.
The plastic slider has a metal piece attached under, that engage with a plastic slider which push the spindle down and move the electrical switch. The metal piece may jumped out from the slider if both electrical and mechanical switch fail.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
09-19-2014, 12:17 PM
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Also the image is reflect from the secondary mirror (through the primary mirror) down to bottom of camera where the focus sensor located. If the auto focus still work well and in focus then likely is the focus screen, otherwise possible the mirrors.
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