|
Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
02-17-2016, 05:28 PM
|
| |
| |
|
Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
02-17-2016, 03:54 PM
|
| |
I don't like these "Why I will not buy a" threads, because search algorithms and unsuspecting newbies might misunderstand it. You see a thread with 200 pages of reasons to NOT buy a camera, and you run away. Even if 99.9% of the posts are sarcastic, joking, and so on. Nobody reads a whole big thread anyway.
|
|
Forum: Pentax K-3 & K-3 II
10-16-2015, 07:32 AM
|
| |
| |
|
Forum: Pentax K-3 & K-3 II
10-01-2015, 07:45 PM
|
| |
Shot today with K3II and Tamron 17-50 2.8. I shot this a few weeks ago with a Canon 6D and 24-70 F4.0 L IS. I printed them both 12x18 and the k3II shot is miles ahead. I ordered a 16x48 and it's going to be interesting to compare that to the 6D one I got a few weeks ago.
Interesting to note what really struck me was the ease of shooting pixel shift/mirror up/IR remote. The Canon would give me fits using the IR remote and it didn't work with mirror lock up or some such nonsense. I know I was always scratching my head wondering what settings worked with what other settings. The Pentax just does what I want it to do without giving me any lip.
The AA filter on the 6D is very noticeable after shooting Pentax non AA cameras for the past few years. And pixel shift just leaves it in the dust FF or not.
Makes me wonder what the FF Pentax might be like WITH pixel shift... things are getting interesting.
Another thing about pixel shift, your lens only has to be 24mp sharp, not 50mp sharp, yet it gives you 45mp output. think about it. :)
|
|
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
09-23-2015, 10:41 AM
|
| |
   pictures...
---------- Post added 23-09-15 at 19:53 ----------
had some problems with the upload, here we go
|
|
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
09-23-2015, 10:38 AM
|
| |
FA* No More Fear…. Of Scratches….
I did my own Lenscovers to protect my FA* lenses. They are not intended to work as a rain cover; they shall only protect my lenses from scratches, mild bumps and reduce the visibility of the shiny lenses.
Things I used:
- Copy paper (A4)
- Paper Cutter
- Neoprene piece, Black, 3mm, rubber side and textile side, closed cell, 130 x 40 cm
- White Pencil
- Black Pen
- Scissors
- Sewing machine (Bernina)
- Black Thread
- Tape
- Velcro
- Sharp knife
- Time…
Covers made for:
- FA* 250-600 F5.6
- FA* 80-200 F2.8
- FA* 28-70 F2.8
- FA* 85 F1.4
- FA* 24 F2
Bought the Lenscoat for the FA* 400 F5.6 a while ago.
How:
- Measure the width of the lens section to cover.
- Cut the paper to the width (Pen, Paper cutter) needed.
- The length of the paper should be around 1-4 cm less than the circumference of the lens section. Dependent on the form of the lens section if there is things like buttons or curvature you want to make it shorter = tighter fit. Plus it is for sure very dependent on the Neoprene type you’ll get.
- Shorten (scissor) or extend (tape) the length of the paper section.
- Use the paper piece as a mask for the neoprene. Lay the paper flat on the neoprene. I used the rubbery side (so no marks will be visible on the outside). Use the white pencil to mark the shape of the mask (I used water to soften the pencils tip (water soluble pencil, Caran d’Ache)).
- Cut the neoprene to the marked size.
- Sew the ends together (zigzag, 5mm, reduced thread tension to minimum, had the rubber side up) lift the foot to reduce the compression of the neoprene as needed, you will experience it… :)
- Cut off the thread ends.
- Put the section on lens and check if the fit is right. If not cut the sewed part off and sew again…
- If there is a window— like the AF or Zoom range — turn the section mounted on the lens around, so you see the rubber side. Move it just above the window and mark the width and height of the window on the neoprene section. The height & width (sometimes you need to make the width smaller / bigger as you don’t stretch it the same way) should be exactly as the window. Take the section off the lens. Fold the section in half, the way that the marked window is in half use very sharp scissors to cut the window.
- For the 250-600mm
- “Sliding Section” for when the hood is extended, I sewed a Velcro on the neoprene (makes it easy to mount when needed, fits over the hood for storage).
- Lens collar section, I cut holes where needed and sewed a Velcro on the end.
- Tripod foot, I measured the dimensions and sewed a cover together (4 pieces in total)… with side pieces, an opening on top and the whole bottom was left open.
- For the strap anchors I just made a slit in the right length where needed
- For the 24mm
- I rolled the hood over a piece of paper and marked the dimensions
I just had planned to do it for the 250-600 but had some neoprene left, it became very easy so I did it for all my silver lenses…
I had ordered some samples of different neoprene before I ordered a bigger piece, I ended up using. I liked the rubbery side + textile side samples as this rubber side shows quite high friction and thus will stay in place… not like the double sided textile neoprene stuff.
I’m pretty happy with the covers I produced, might not be the nicest but they will work. Honestly I never sewed before “luckily” my GF inherited a sewing machine a while ago. I had to play around with different settings but I found a way to do it. The first cover (250-600) took me an afternoon as I had to repeat many things with all sorts of settings to find out what works best. The other ones e.g. 80-200mm 30min, 28-70mm 10 min.
I got inspired by:
I have tried the Camo form Tape and its working but it’s moving easily, sticks to itself, it’s not a bump protection, cannot be taken off that fast, but has a nice feel/haptic
https://www.mcnett.com/tactical/camoform#19550
I have also tried the cheaper tapes offered on amazon but those are not in the same league as the camo form stuff. They are slightly glossy, look cheap, do not stick as well to itself and don't stay in place at all… It does not feel as nice as the camo form. So if you want to use tape use the camo form…
Pictures:
|
|
Forum: Pentax K-3 & K-3 II
09-14-2015, 03:43 AM
|
| |
Rainbow Lorikeet in my back yard. K-3 with Sigma 500 f4.5 APO DG EX and Pentax HD 1.4x Rear Converter; ISO 640, f9 (corrected for RC), 1/180th. External flash.
|
|
Forum: Pentax K-3 & K-3 II
09-09-2015, 06:41 AM
|
| |
Beautiful shots as always, everyone. Everyone's images are inspiring. (LeRolls, you sure are a portrait master!)
Got this shot of a hummingbird clearwing moth yesterday. Love to watch these guys flit from bloom to bloom. :)
I was impressed with the K-3's high ISO performance here. This is ISO 6400.
|
|
Forum: Pentax K-3 & K-3 II
08-26-2015, 04:58 PM
|
| |
I bought my K3 last November but have never posted anything in here before. Tons and tons of great images in here to show what the K3 can do.
Here is my contribution, K3 plus Sigma 50-500 OS HSM ISO 1000
Reflections
Mallard-2.jpg by scorpio71gr, on Flickr
Michael
|
|
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
08-18-2015, 02:15 PM
|
| |
Wow, there's been a wonderful burst of energy here in the K10D Club over the past few days. Here's one with the Zenitar 16mm at Great Staple Tor on a rare sunny afternoon. One of those shots that has to be in B&W to bring out the forms of the rocks:
(Xposted in the Soviet Lenses Club.)
|
|
Forum: Pentax K-3 & K-3 II
08-06-2015, 01:05 PM
|
| |
Thank you John! I was in Maranello too. That place is heaven for me. Did you know that someone crashed that F458 on your photo? Then they replaced it with a Spider I guess. I drove that one. It was fantastic.
---------- Post added 08-06-15 at 11:29 PM ----------
I'm never comfortable with using LR. Somehow it feels too complicated for me but Photoshop is much easier to process RAWs with few additional tools. PS vs LR is very subjective but basically every PS is also LR with Camera Raw plugin.
Anyway I open any RAW with PS (btw none of those photos shot in manual, K3 was all set to auto. Sometimes I don't have much time when traveling). I correct lens profile in Camera RAW software and then I adjust some basic values. Mostly highlights and shadows make the big difference. I don't adjust sharpness via Camera Raw software in PS. After I finished I click to Open Image.
I'm using Nik Software for after process.
https://www.google.com/nikcollection/products/sharpener-pro/
I adjust sharpness with this.
Then I add some color profile with;
https://www.google.com/nikcollection/products/color-efex-pro/
This tool is really easy to make an instant difference on your photos. For example if you set the tonal contrast your photo becomes very detailed. there are customizable 55 filters so it really depends on your taste.
After I finish these two steps if the image is too noise I use this;
https://www.topazlabs.com/denoise
Sometimes you loose the details when you adjust the sharpness in the first place but it really helps you to get rid of any noise on the photo.
Finally one of the greatest tool in editing history but this time I have to switch to LR because this function is not available in PS. (some people say it's also in Camera Raw but I couldn't find it.)
Here’s a Sneak Peek at Lightroom CC’s Dehaze Tool – PictureCorrect
This tool is really great to work. Even if you shot a photo under bright sun it can help you eliminate hazeness and expose some clouds in the sky.
For comparison;
Before and After
It still need some correction like some magenta fringing some places but at least I can manage this result in 5 minutes so far. I hope this can help you and feel free to ask if you have questions.
|
|
Forum: Pentax K-3 & K-3 II
08-13-2014, 03:57 AM
|
| |
What kind of idiots are mel and Tjopompen1968! Pentax make weather resistant cameras and lenses not weather proof and extreme conditions conditions proof. For jet boat ride the only sensible thing was to use a water proof compact or else a weather proof housing, as for steam as opposed to humid conditions I am not sure what the best solution would be. Weather resistance cameras and associated lenses are a good partnership for milder weather conditions or beach use on a slight windy day, for anything else you can take your pictures when owners of other makes put their cameras away but have keep your fingers crossed as at times you may taking too much of a chance.
|
|
Forum: Pentax K-3 & K-3 II
07-20-2015, 04:30 PM
|
| |
A yellow flower, but not as nice as the one posted above by RAART
|
|
Forum: Pentax K-3 & K-3 II
07-21-2015, 05:15 PM
|
| |
Ok...I guess that would make sense for some users.
It would appear that the auto-ISO behavior is biased in favor of minimizing high ISO artifact and accommodating high ISO for low light. High ISO with high shutter speed in bright light is a legitimate use case, but is not covered with the existing auto-ISO behavior. I agree that the the "fast" setting is misleading. The most it will give you is about 1-2 stops faster and then only in low light. I suppose Ricoh/Pentax could offer a high 'n bright setting to cover this case in some future firmware.
Steve
|
|
Forum: Pentax K-3 & K-3 II
07-21-2015, 07:52 PM
|
| |
You can set a range for the auto-ISO to operate in when shooting in shutter-priority (or M, or some other modes).
If you want the camera to work the higher ISO's more, just set a higher floor and ceiling for the auto-ISO range while in (for example) shutter-priority or TAV mode - eg 400-6400 ISO, instead of 100-3200 ISO.
Lens focal length is accounted for in the program line calculations, but the influence on ISO comes from adjustments made to the shutter speed. A direct lookup of what ISO is appropriate for what lens focal length wouldn't make sense.
|
|
Forum: Pentax K-3 & K-3 II
07-20-2015, 09:27 PM
|
| |
No need to assume a camera fault.
The setting you are using (High-speed priority) only applies to P shooting mode.
If you want a fast shutter speed to be the priority, just set one in Tv mode. Auto-ISO and auto-aperture will still work.
|
|
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
07-15-2015, 01:06 AM
|
| |
Great shot with a real sense of drama. And it's great to see that I'm not the only nutter in Devon using the GX-10 version of the K10D.
|
|
Forum: Pentax K-3 & K-3 II
07-14-2015, 02:54 PM
|
| |
I use FastStone, and I would disagree. Segregating RAWs from small JPEGs on the two cards allows quick set up of two file folders on the computer. I often delete RAWs of images that won't be processed, but like to have a full history of what was shot. Once on the computer, your converter can be set up to ignore the JPEG album, and both FastStone and the converter operate quicker when these images are separated in the two albums. On a large shoot, you can review the JPEGs in FastStone quickly, find a file number and locate the same file in the RAW converter - which allows the main working area to be kept as large as possible. This system gives me the most efficient workflow, and allows other programs to stay open with other work projects. My Windows computers are both medium to medium-fast in overall speed (emphasis on RAM utility, not a gaming set up) - about 2 years old.
|
|
Forum: Pentax K-3 & K-3 II
06-28-2015, 01:50 PM
|
| |
K-3 and DA 18-135
Bird Watcher (BW) Bear got an early start on the mushroom season this year. We've had such a cold wet June, the woods have mushrooms we usually don't see until October and November.
It's raining all day, so the pseudo macro 1:3.3 of the DA 18-135 had to fill in for the Sigma 70 macro I usually use, just for it's water resistance.
You never know what you'll find in the woods....
Someone thinks this one is good to eat... hope they didn't get sick...
If this keeps up BW will be bringing his friend Moose out for a big tour of the shrooms.
They always have so much fun together.
 |
|
Forum: Pentax K-3 & K-3 II
06-16-2015, 11:46 AM
|
| |
| |
|
Forum: Pentax K-3 & K-3 II
06-06-2015, 01:42 AM
|
| |
| |
|
Forum: Pentax K-3 & K-3 II
05-18-2015, 11:13 AM
|
| |
| |
|
Forum: Pentax K-3 & K-3 II
05-04-2015, 02:14 PM
|
| |
| |
|
Forum: Pentax K-3 & K-3 II
05-01-2015, 08:41 AM
|
| |
| |
|
Forum: Pentax K-3 & K-3 II
04-25-2015, 03:03 PM
|
| |
Nice pelican images.
The concern with letting SR turn itself off and on, is that it will spoil any image taken while it is spooling up (i.e. turning itself on again).
|
