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Forum: Pentax Forums Giveaways
09-07-2016, 02:01 PM
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Pentax K-50 - best bang for the bucks... Way cool...
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Forum: Pentax Forums Giveaways
01-28-2016, 07:18 AM
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Tip on bokeh, Remember the 1/3, 2/3 rule to increase the bokeh effect. The 1/3, 2/3 rule is that from the focus point 1/3 in front and 2/3 in back will be in focus for the specific aperture and depth of field. So focus in front of your target to shift the Depth of Field forward and get more bokeh behind the subject...
Tip on scenic pictures - use a telephoto lens and focus on object much closer - the depth of field will shift forward (you don’t need 2/3 beyond infinity to be in focus). This will enlarge distant objects and closer objects will appear to be bigger than life.
Photography is about perception and to create and capture something that does NOT exist in the natural world. Some examples are the use of Bokeh (blur the background), wide angled lenses (distort balance), ND filters (soften and blur movement).
Light and lack of light are your creative tools. Soft edges with lenses can be your friend if used in a creative manner... Learn to use the weaknesses of your equipment to make creative photos...
An exact replication, is taking pictures, to tell a story and have the viewer perceive, is photography. Perception is something that does not exist in the real world.
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Forum: Pentax Forums Giveaways
01-26-2016, 04:53 AM
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Older K mount manual lenses can function like an auto focus lens and "aperture priority".
Tip for using a MANUAL lens with Pentax K-50 (others models also)
1) Set camera to (Manual) mode.
2) Turn camera on and select the focal length of lens.
3) Custom menu #4 item #22 (Using Aperture Ring) set to Enable (2).
4) Custom menu #3 item #20 (Catch-in Focus) set to On (2).
5) Camera Menu #4 (E-Dial Programming) menu #2 select (M), change the green button function to (TvShift).
6) On the side of the camera set the focusing to (AF.S) - it is green.
7) From the “Status Screen” using the 4-way selector (top button), set the ISO to a manual ISO of your choice.
8) Select the aperture that you want to use from the ring on the lens.
When ready to take a picture just point the camera and press the “green button” it will now act like “aperture priority” and auto set the shutter speed. (pretty cool eh).
Now press the shutter all the way down and rotate the focus ring - when your subject comes in focus the camera will fire. (Almost as good as auto-focus) or you can use the “live view” mode and use focus peaking... (el neat-o)...
A good easy way to use some of the older really good lenses that can be picked up for little bucks and get them to behave in a more functional way without a lot of guess work....
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Forum: Video Recording and Processing
03-26-2015, 04:25 AM
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Thanks Tombene, this helps. It took me awhile to figure out that with one shot it was making 3 frames - lol and wanted to confirm that this was normal...
---------- Post added 03-26-15 at 07:35 AM ----------
IMP, thanks - another way to do things, with some extra flexibility (more work too - lol).. Only other issue I had with timelaps video is flaring. Took some out by using manual mode. The was able to get most all out by going to an all manual lens. With out the manual lens there seems to be an ever slight difference in exposure between shots, even in manual mode... I guess because the aperture varies slightly between shots when it constantly opens and closes where as with a manual lens the aperture stays in one position throughout the sequence... I am not a big video guy and don't even have a video editor for my linux box. I may try OpenShot video editor and play with that some.
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Forum: Video Recording and Processing
03-25-2015, 10:40 AM
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Thanks John, I read that before and the math isn't the real issue it is the fact that my K-50 plays back at 15 frames per second... But while doing the timelaps it takes one (1) picture and creates three (3) frames from that one picture... And no matter if I have my camera set for 24, 30, or 60 frames per second with timelaps it plays back at 15 frames per second no matter what... So when I calculate I have to use 5 pictures per second (15 frames per second)... And was wondering if other people find the same with their K-50... Or if I was not doing it correct or something... So if I want to make a 10 second movie clip I have to take 50 pictures (150 frames), then space them accordingly.. Spaced 3 seconds apart means 150 seconds (2.5 minutes) of time frame for the 50 pictures (150 frames), spaced 5 seconds apart means 250 seconds (4.17 minutes) of time frame 50 pictures (150 frames)...
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Forum: Video Recording and Processing
03-25-2015, 09:06 AM
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I am trying to figure out my timelaps video on my K-50. I have tried several different settings from 24, 30, 60 frames per second and it doesn’t seem to make any difference... With timelaps video it seems to always play back at 15 frames per second... Also when recording it takes 1 picture and records 3 frames...
So the nearest I can figure is that to record I need to calculate 5 pictures per second for 15 frames... So a 10 second video will require 50 pictures (150 frames)... the spacing is then calculated for example spacing 5 seconds I would need 250 seconds... or about 4.17 minutes to capture the 50 pictures (150 frames) for a 10 second timelaps video...
Is this correct or am I all wrong here for the K-50.
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
02-02-2015, 08:25 AM
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I have several lenses and just noticed something odd. I have/had a Sigma 28-200mm, Tamron 28-200mm (sold them) a Promaster 28-210... When comparing these lenses the Promaster seemed more like a 200mm than 210mm when compared with the Sigma and Tamron because when zoomed to 210 the images size was very close to the other two... Ok now comes the interesting part - I have a Promaster 28-300mm which is considerably longer in focal length than the Promaster 210mm so I can assume that it is 300mm... Now here is where I need help and just noticed the odd thing... I have a Pentax kit lens 50mm to 200mm and at the 200mm mark it equals the Promaster at the 300mm mark - Is it possible that there was a mixup at the factory and I actually have a 50-300mm that was mislabeled... I am using these on my K-50 with 1.5 crop factor... Anyone have any ideas what is up with these lenses... Seems like sense the Promaster 210 equaled the Signma and Tamron at the 200 mark, one has to assume that this is pretty accurate and the Promaster 300 is considerably longer. Why would the Pentax 50-200 equal the 300mm Promaster at full focal when it is only a 200mm lens? Crazy...
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Forum: Pentax Forums Giveaways
12-13-2014, 10:23 PM
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Merry Christmas everyone...
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
12-05-2014, 12:33 AM
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Since posting the comment I did some further investigating and testing. I have a Tamron 28-200, Sigma 28-200, Promaster 28-210 and Pentax 50-200. At the 200mm mark the Tamron, Sigma, Promaster miss auto focus while in live view mode but the Pentax 50-200 nails the auto focus. So I guess the issue is with the lens. Got me stumped though and can't figure why those other lens' miss focus in live view mode. I just bought a Pentax 75-300 and when it gets here I will test that and see if that will focus in live view... I got about 8 other lens's and once I sift through them and decide which ones to keep I will sell the others and buy more toys... hahaha If interested I can say that the Pentax 50-200 takes the best pictures at 200mm then the Promaster, then Sigma and last is Tamron... So I will sell the Sigma and Tamron on ebay or something. I got at great deal on the Pentax 75-300 ($37)... Buy and sell and buy more toys... lol
---------- Post added 12-05-14 at 02:38 AM ----------
Well you will have to give us the low down on your K-3 vs K-30.. I almost bought a K-3 but I in stead got a K-50. I'm a low pixel count, large pixel size guy...
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
12-02-2014, 06:03 AM
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I guess my luck is no better than yours. I am on my 3rd K-50 body and this one will not AUTO focus properly in live view. I can manually focus it and it is fine and it is also fine while I use the viewfinder. This one also exhibits the same problem as the other two but not as much in that the metering from viewfinder mode to live view mode is only 1/3 stop different. One of the other K-50 was as much as 2 full stops in dim light and 1 stop in daylight... I refuse to send them in for repair. I sent them back for exchange. I bought a new camera and I expect it to work as new. If I wanted a repaired camera then I would have bought a factory refurbished one (maybe that is the way to go)...
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
10-23-2014, 12:34 AM
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So now I have to meet qualifications that meet your approval before posting. I hardly think so dude.
If you don't like what I post then don't read it.
And for your information, many issues can be addressed with firmware (source code) adjustments. And what is source code other than a 0,1 the most basic level of instruction programming code. Which is often called machine code or machine language.
One service rep called Corporate (I assume to talk to a tech or engineer) and they determined that there was an issue with the calibration within the camera, which need to be addressed. It was not user error and had nothing to do with knowing how to or what to adjust on the camera or even any knowledge about photography.
The things that I mentioned about the flashing lights on the status screen etc was not (as you would put it whining, or ignorance on my part) but in fact abnormal because of inaccurate calibration when the camera left the factory.
Now how does that make you look, Mr Knowitall.
Am I unqualified. Well without a complete history let me just say this. I used to do free lance programming and also trouble shoot source code. My claim to fame was a 5 page cover in PC Magazine featuring one of my projects and considered at the time to be the best in the world. UNQUALIFIED, well, maybe in your eyes. But then again, who are you, some self serving bafoon...
You sure are not going to tell me what I can post or how I should post it, that is for sure.
I am not sure as to who you think you are but one thing for sure, it is inaccurate.
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
10-22-2014, 11:46 PM
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So what you are saying, is that before someone can qualify to buy a camera, they must be an expert photographer and an expert technician with cameras, either that they should not buy cameras.
You're a bafoon, and if you have nothing better to say then don't say anything at all. It is people like yourself that put yourself on a pedestal that end up looking like a jackass.
FYI there was an issue with the camera and after talking to Pentax Service they suggested to either send it in for repair or send it back for replacement.
Do you mean to say that you showed up in 1st grade and you already had a PHD degree. Well good for you, but for the rest of the world we had to learn our ABC's.
You're an idiot. First of all, you have no idea what I know about photography and secondly, you also, have no idea as to what I know about cameras. And if you had any knowledge at all you may have detected that possibly there might be something wrong with the camera, but being a total self centered, self serving troll you prefer to belittle be person and try to debunk them.
If you can't contribute to the conversation with something constructive then keep you big mouth shut. People like you make me go GRRRRRRRRR GRRRRRRRRRRRR.
Your personality profile says a lot about who you are. You are the type that trolls around waiting for a chance to flame someone with your cuts and digs, in order to try and boost your own ego and to try make others feel inferior. And the facts are, you probably don't have the real knowledge to interject anything constructive. And we know all about people such as yourself.
People with knowledge can contribute to a conversation for everything else, well, there is you!!!
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
10-21-2014, 06:16 AM
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Thanks guys for the suggestions.
I spent quite a bit of time on the phone with Pentax Service yesterday (3 different calls) trying different things to correct the problem. I redid the firmware update, reset the camera and custom settings. I have 3 different Pentax lenses (18-55, 50-200, 28-80) and one Tamron (28-200) and all 4 lenses exhibited the same results. So the last service rep, concluded that since there are two different metering systems and two different focus systems that the "live view" probably needed to be re-calibrated, which would be done for free. However, I opted to contact B&H (great guys) and they suggested to just swap the body out for a new one and see if that takes care of the issue. Yesterday was getting pretty bad and at times I had 2-3 stops difference between "live view" and "view finder" modes. This was with the shades up and light from outside shining in and pointing the camera away from the window. Pointing out the window for a daylight shot the difference would drop down to about 1/3 of a stop. This variation led the service rep to conclude about the re-calibration and felt that it may also solve the issue with the blinking lights. That a re-calibration would also reset the threshold for when the lights would blink or not... Any way I am going to try a new camera body and if the same situation occurs then I will send that in for re-calibration or what ever it would need.
Under flash it makes no difference (as I understand it is the flash setting the proper exposure) of which I can set the shutter and aperture for the amount of ambient influence on the picture.. I got some pretty neat flash pictures last night while messing around with the camera... Played with some white balance and ran a shutter of around 1-2 seconds and cut the flash power back -2 EV... Got some pretty awesome natural looking pictures with some shadow from the natural light source... Any way I had fun tinkering... Prior flash for me was - if there was not enough light then turn on the flash. They always looked like a flash picture. Last night opened a new interest for me. I never was a flash person before but I think I may dab into it a bit more. I have a pretty decent external flash (not a p-TTL for Pentax - e-TTL for my Canon). But, it works great in manual and also slave. In wireless I tried both modes of "master" and "command" and like the "command" (no influence from the internal flash)... All in all even thought some of it was "grrrrr", I had fun playing and tinkering...
Again, thanks for the suggestions and input. Hopefully the new body will conform closer to factory specs... That would make me a "happy camper"... and instead of "grrrrr" it will be "whooo-hooo" - look at me now... hahaha
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
10-19-2014, 06:45 PM
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For those that took the time to explain the workings of a flash - thank you for your contribution.
This blinking thing, has me beside myself.
Let me try to be more clear. When using the view finder the numbers that indicate shutter speed, ISO, aperture on the status screen, will blink when the camera is pointed toward a dim lit area. There is enough light for it to meter a correct exposure. They even blink when in manual mode even thought there is a light meter scale that indicates the exposure. They also blink while in bulb mode. The indicators in the view finder on the status line also blink. When in live view the indicators on the status line also blink.
What I would like to know, is if your K-50 does the same and does it make no sense to you also.
To save some time - for those who want to tell me how to turn the status screen off and also the display information - I already know about that and it isn't a matter of turning it off it is a matter of why it is doing this.
I can't figure out what kind of warning this could possibly be indicating. It isn't a shutter speed warning, or an aperture setting warning or an ISO warning or an unobtainable metering warning or exposure warning... Which leads me to believe that it is a warning that the camera is pointed in a dim lit area (which I already know).
So I am unable to determine what this could possibly mean other than being an irritant...
When they blink, your first impression is, what is wrong and what do I need to address or change. No matter what you do or what you change the just keep blinking. Then I thought that maybe it was a flash warning (wanting me to use a flash, like some camera will pop up a lightning bolt on the screen or some little thing like that). But with the flash up and ready and after the camera has adjusted for flash mode they still blink annoyingly. It would be understandable if something wasn't set right and you made an adjustment and they stopped blinking.
Pictures are perfect, histograms are perfect and no reason for the flashing numbers...
And there is no way to get rid of it without turning the screen and status overlay information turned completely off... It has me scratching my head for sure.
If your K-50 does the same thing let me know, if it doesn't do it then let me know that too. And if your K-50 is a different K-50 than mine, then we are experiencing two different things.
As a side note to this - during the day light hours live view vs view finder. the metering identical... In low light there is a 1 stop discrepancy between metering in live mode and view finder mode.... Live mode will meter 1 stop brighter. That is a little quirky too... Anyone notice that with their camera too. It is ok if you are using one method or the other but if you switch back and forth you have to remember before you take the picture in live mode that you have to stop down the EV one (1) stop before pressing the shutter. And it does it in every mode even manual mode. In fact that is how I became aware of it was in manual mode when I switch from live view to view finder my light meter indicator scale was off by one (1) EV... Again - they are both exactly the same during the day - scratching my head again..
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
10-18-2014, 08:38 PM
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My K-50 does the same thing in all modes. I first noticed it in Manual mode when I would press the green button to get a suggestion from the camera and it was 1 stop different between the live view and the view finder and if you took a picture with the suggested settings then the view finder mode was underexposed by 1 EV. Live view mode gives a more accurate exposure reading. It is the same in all the other modes too now that I have checked them. I will check them during the daytime tomorrow. I am sure that they will be the same.
The best way to tell is to go into Manual mode and be in Viewfinder with the status screen and then press the green button to get a suggested starting point for a 0 compensated exposure setting. Then just go to live view and you will see that the light meter is indicating 1 stop underexposed. The reverse can be done too and the viewfinder mode with the status screen will indicate an overexposure.
I guess it may be time to contact Pentax Service and see if there is a firmware fix for it yet. I did do a firmware upgrade shortly after I got the camera, mine is V1.02.
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
10-09-2014, 08:56 AM
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Per usual when posting anything about any subject there are a few that will always attack the person. (Didn't do enough research, Don't know how to use the camera, Don't understand flash photography, yada yada yada).
Either you agree or you don't just as simple as that. If the flashing numbers on the status screen are annoying or not. Pentax could have simply had them turn color and not flash like you are in a cheap motel with no shades with a neon flashing light right out side of your window, lighting up the room like someone turning the light switch on and off all night. I can get rid of the flashing neon annoying numbers by reprogramming the RAW/FX button to turn the status screen off.. Another comment about that - Pentax could have had that same feature (reprogramming the RAW/FX button) to work like a selection switch in that instead of having to hold it in - one push would turn off the status screen and another push of the same button would turn on the status screen. I also think that Pentax could have had source code default with all modes to something like 1/60, f4.0, 400iso. Not every situation wants only a fill flash. Again a matter of agree or disagree not an opportunity to flame me. FYI - I do also have an external flash capable of 1/2000 and even in manual mode of both the camera and flash it is not able to shoot faster than 1/180... A camera capable of 51,200 iso and shutter speeds of 1/6000 and frame rates of 6 fps - I hardly think it is hardware restricted. Light is light regardless of natural or otherwise... So if natural light (highly lit room with light bulbs or daylight) will permit faster shutter speeds - adequate light from a flash should also allow for faster shutter speeds... Now again, this is do you agree or disagree and not your golden opportunity to flame me. And even if I were a complete dummy, just remember you can learn a lot from a dummy - just look what they did for the automobile...
---------- Post added 10-09-14 at 12:15 PM ----------
For those that feel I did not do my home work - I selected the Pentax K-50 for the following reasons. I wanted in camera stabilization (Pentax or Sony - Nikon and Canon out). I wanted an APS size sensor with low megapixels that were large. Actually 8-10 megapixels would have been fine (which means the size of each pixel would be even larger). If you don't know about the megapixel myth then google it. If you take a Nikon D810 36 megapixel (full size sensor) and only use part of the sensor or crop the sensor to APS size then you have 16 megapixels because the size of the pixel in the D810 (Over $3,000 camera) is 23.8 um(squared). The size of the pixel in the K50 is 22.9 um(squared). Walla! Many other features of the K-50 interested me such as being able to control the amount of noise processing for each level of ISO - from off, low, medium, high processing. So in reality if you want to retain detail (at the expense of noise) at 51,200 ISO you can turn off any noise processing or have as little or as much as you want. The list goes on and on, but yes I did my research and knew about the 1/180 (a compromise on my end and not a deal breaker) - be nice if Pentax would un-throttle it though. The only surprise I got was the neon flashing irritating large numbers on the status screen. Pentax turn the flashing off - make it alien green, pink anything but flashing... Having the screen below your eye is bothersome enough without flashing too...
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
10-08-2014, 05:18 AM
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I love my K-50 but there are some things about it that make me just go "Grrrrrr".
1) In less then ideal light, the numbers on the status screen and viewfinder constantly blink. This to me is very distracting and irritating. Even with a proper exposure they still continue to blink. Grrrrr.
In some cases they will blink "red" and never turn to white or stop blinking even when a proper exposure has been set... Double Grrrrr.
2) Default flash at either 1/25 or 1/30 - I think every camera in the world defaults to at least 1/60. Isn't part of the idea of a flash, is so that you can use faster shutter speeds in dim light. I have always felt that 1 with 1/60 and slower shutter speeds it is time to seriously think about a tripod. That is kind of a general rule that I keep in the back of my head. A general setting to be in the "ball park" for flash photography is 1/60 shutter speed, f4.0, ISO - 400... Now why can't Pentax do that? Grrrrr.
3) Fastest shutter speed with flash is 1/180. What good is that on moving objects in dim light? Heck I have several point and shoot and several bridge cameras (costing a lot less) that can shoot with a flash at 1/4000. 1/180 is totally irritating. Why does Pentax limit us - let us choose - it is only a number in the source code. Grrrrr.
It also makes you wonder if the engineers who develop the firmware code ever use cameras...
The above quirks can be resolved in the firmware source code. I am sure that the hardware of the K-50 is capable of the task. If a $100 point and shoot can do it then why can't the K-50. I think it is time that Pentax change some numbers in the source code and stop irritating us with neon flashing numbers and more appropriate default flash settings.
I would also like to see an exposure meter on every screen, no matter what mode you are using. It would also be nice to see a histogram on the status screen instead of having to switch to live view to see one.
Also, the thin black lines in the viewfinder just don't cut it. In less then ideal light you have no idea where the center of the view is.
What Pentax could consider, is that, what sells Cameras isn't always advertisements, but a solid, loyal customer base and word of mouth. How many Corvettes do you think would sell if they put a governor on the engine to limit the car to 70mph? Even though there may be no need to go any faster and the speed limit is 70mph. I don't believe one single Corvette with a governor would sell. Pentax are you listening. If the K-50 is able to do then turn that feature on in the firmware. There are many people that instead of moving up in level of camera would switch brands to one that doesn't have the governors...
Anyway, that is my rant for the day.
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Forum: Pentax News and Rumors
10-01-2014, 05:03 AM
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No I do not have any misconceptions about pixel size. I am not an expert but I do read what experts have to say. If pixel size was not a factor then I guess all full frame cameras would have the same pixel size as a point and shoot. What can hold more a 5 gallon pail or a 50 gallon barrel. Larger pixels can obtain more data to make the processing more accurate.
Printing: Since 300dpi is considered professional quality and your human eye can't detect that fine detail and actually begins to fall off around 150dpi that most people with the naked eye can't tell the difference between 150dpi and 300dpi what use is it to print at 600, 1200 etc when you can't even see the detail without a magnifying glass. Most computer screens have 100-125dpi (there are exceptions). So if things look great on your computer then printing at 300dpi are going to have 3 more times detail than what you see on your computer.
We know that companies have to stay in business and many times they will market things that really are insignificant and make a big deal out of it and tell you this is what you need because they rely on this marketing for the purpose of you selling last years technology and running out and buying today's latest and greatest. Whether you need it or not. Sony has an A57 which was replaced by the A58, in my opinion they went backwards and the A57 in my opinion is a better camera. Canon did the same thing with their superzoom SX50. Canon said look a 1000mm zoom, you need this. The SX40 having 840mm is a better lens with the respect that it is f2.7 vs f3.5 for the SX50. Which would you rather have - I prefer the f2.7 lens over the 1000mm... Then they said "Oh look you can now shoot RAW too". All camera's shoot a raw picture and then it is converted. Why didn't they program the SX40 to save a RAW image - well that was for the next latest and greatest. But the SX40 can save a RAW file if you download a free chdk file which allows you to save RAW and opens many other features not found coming from the factory (of which they could have if they wanted too)... But want to only give you certain things so that they can next year turn some of those features on and say "Hey look here, you need this. Sell your camera and get this new latest and greatest one"...
If you recall I did say that the K-S1 fills a market share and it will sell and that the individual will have to decide for themselves if the K-S1 was worth the extra bucks or would a K-50/K500 work for them.. It is their money and they can buy what they want. I also said that if a person were to consider the K-S1 would it be worth the road trip to go all the way to the K-3. Everyone will buy what they want for their own reasons and if everyone felt the same way then there would only be one camera company and one camera. And I was also trying to point out the marketing aspect that through marketing they will try to convince you that you need this latest and greatest - for the sole purpose of getting your money (which they do need in order to stay in business). Are you getting your moneys worth and do you really need what they are marketing. That is a decision only you can make.
I was pointing out what I was aware of and sharing that. If you agree that is fine, if you don't it doesn't matter to me. To make a statement (that I have a misconception) to attack me personally - well I understand that level of discussion too. The facts are - I don't have a misconception about pixel size and I guess from that standpoint you opened your own mouth and stuck your own foot in it... And I will leave it at that...
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Forum: Pentax News and Rumors
10-01-2014, 03:56 AM
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I said that they were basically the same with a few exceptions one being that the pixel count was higher but the pixel size was smaller in the K-S1. If they were identical then I guess that they would call the K-S1 a K-500.
A Camaro may share the same driveline (engine, transmission, etc) as a corvette with a few exceptions body style etc... Which in some respects make the Camaro and Corvette basically the same with respects to what makes it go down the road - engine etc... Please, don't put words in my mouth or twist what I do say.
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Forum: Pentax News and Rumors
09-30-2014, 04:00 AM
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Smaller isn't always better, some may not care about wifi or AA filers at double the money. Will the AA filter do better on the K-S1 or will the K-50/500 do better with a better lens to the point that both have an investment of equal expense... With $399 price of the K-500 (with a 18-55mm) that still leaves $400 to spend on another lens... I guess each person has to weight the differences and see what is right for them... For me I would pass on the wifi and AA filter and opt for a better lens on the K-500 - A side note - the K-500 pixel size is 22.9um(squared) vs 17.7um(squared)... Does a person really need 20 megapixels or even 16 megapixels... Printing at professional quality (300dpi) it only takes 7 megapixels for an 8x10 - what happens to the other megapixels (are they thrown out or averaged in) in either case there is degradation with the sharpness, contrast and even color because the resolution is going to be compromised in order to make it fit... Here is an exercise that is simple to do and will raise some questions... Take a picture of some telephone wires at full resolution and then view them on the computer the telephone wires look like a ripsaw blade until you view at 100%... Would you get the same results if you printed the picture at less than full size? And if you shrink the picture down what happens to the detail, sharpness, contrast, colors etc.. Some long time professionals seem to agree that pixel size is more important than pixel count but is overlooked by many consumers... I happen to agree... I have another question - why would a person need an AA filter is they are getting the results without one? And another point I would like to make is if the K-S1 has a faster processor then why does the K-500 still shoot at a faster frame rate (6 vs 5.4)... Here is a link for your viewing pleasure - use your own deductions: Specifications - Pentax K-500 vs Pentax K-S1 |
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
09-28-2014, 11:09 PM
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I tried that - still flashes red under low light - never goes solid and never turn white... Only turn white and goes solid under favorable light... I even tried setting the iso to 51,200 just to see... I have other camera's that under the same lighting will turn red to white and lock on and stop flashing... I am talking lighting that locks at 1600iso, f/3.5 and 1/10 shutter speed... The K-50 should have no problem with these setting to lock on, turn white and stop blinking red...
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Forum: Video Recording and Processing
09-28-2014, 10:42 PM
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You could be right - how fast of a card to you think I need... Right now I have a SanDisk 32g, 200x Class 10... I thought that one was pretty fast...
---------- Post added 09-29-14 at 01:57 AM ----------
Mine is rated at 30mb/s - I just checked and there is one rated at 280mb/s but holly hanna it cost $245 for 64gig... Maybe I should check on one around 95mb/s and get an 8 gig which would be good for about 2 hours worth.. but also more in tune with my bucks...
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Forum: Pentax News and Rumors
09-28-2014, 08:19 AM
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I think that all Camera companies use a marketing approach that wants to use "pixel count" as a means to attract buyers. From the stand point of buyers (first time DSLR or otherwise). People think in terms that more is better (thus the "pixel count" game)... I was once told that it isn't the number of pixels you have, it is the amount of data that the pixel can obtain and the processing of the data of those pixels is what really matter.. I sort of look at it this way - A full frame Nikon D810 uses a pixel size of 23um(squared). If you cropped a picture from a D810 to equal 16 megapixels the results would be the same as using a cropped sensor ASP-C using the same pixel size... Obviously if you printed a picture from the D810 utilizing all the pixels (instead of cropping) the quality would be better but not that much better, just in minor detailed resolution where most people would not notice without a magnifying glass... And I hardly doubt that the naked eye could tell any difference at any viewing distance...
So back to the question - first time buyers will more than likely go the "pixel count" route being unsure of making a mistake in selection (thinking more is better). They will hock up double the money over a K-500/K-50... for image quality that may not be any different... And in real life where most people print 5x7, 4x6 most of the time, occasionally 8x10 (for a keeper) and seldom any larger (most don't own plotters capable of larger prints)... then actually 16 megapixels is over-gunned for the task... So where does that leave 20 megapixels... also over-gunned for the task at hand and costing twice the money...
I think the K-S1 will sell but I think if (even first time) buyers digging and doing some research that many will opt for the K-500/K-50 and save a bundle, for better lenses and in the end be further ahead... I feel that the K-500/K-50 fitted with a quality lens would hands down stomp a K-S1 with a kit lens (not that the kit lens is bad - just that some lenses are better)... Total cash layout would be about the same - So there ya have it - one mans take on the subject... For the same amount of money my choice would be K-50 with 18-135mm vs K-S1 with 18-55mm kit lens. The same amount of money would give you a better quality lens and a more flexible lens with more zoom and also a weather sealed camera.... And with the better quality lens you would get better picture quality too....
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
09-28-2014, 07:35 AM
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With normal light, in any mode the setting will flash (sometimes red) until a proper exposure is obtained the will switch to white and stop flashing... Here is the strange part - in less than ideal light (such as indoors with normal house lighting) every mode will flash red settings and never switch to white or stop flashing red even when a proper exposure is achieved. This is really annoying and leaves you wondering when a correct exposure is obtained... You can turn all the dials you want and it will always flash red... so you never really know when you have adjusted for a correct exposure.. All modes do this to include Auto and Program... even though you get a correctly exposed picture. It would seem like when you make adjustments that when you get a proper exposure that the red settings would turn white and stop flashing, indicating a correct exposure (it does this under normal light - so why not in dim light as well)... Strange....
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Forum: Video Recording and Processing
09-28-2014, 07:21 AM
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I have a video issue on my K-50 as well. with mine the audio lags behind the video after about 3 minutes of recording and the audio starts to lag and breaks up... Instead of FullHD (1080) and 30 fps, if I use HD (720) and 24 fps then everything is fine beyond 3 minutes of record time. Can it be that when the camera buffer gets full and when it writes out to the disk that the audio takes a hit (just too much to do at the same time)..
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