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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
08-13-2015, 01:16 AM
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I found that a better alternative to a split image focusing screen is to use the AF fine adjustment to set the point of best focus to coincide with the front edge of the indicated in focus range/ zone ie the point at which the green focus indicator becomes solidly lit. You can then simply turn the focus ring from the mfd towards infinity until (the point at which) the focus confirm light comes solidly on. After a few minutes this becomes almost second nature and correct focus can be achieved both quickly and reliably.
This method works surprisingly well on both my K-30 & K-5iis with Pentax-A 28mm, 35-105mm and 28-135mm etc. On some lens which focus past infinity (eg some Tamron Adaptall zooms) it can work better in reverse ie going from past infinity down towards the mfd. Setting the metering time to 3 seconds can help speed up the process when focusing on tricky subjects where you may need repeat a couple of times to establish the optimum focus position. Hope this helps.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
04-19-2015, 12:25 PM
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Exposure in the sense of the apparent exposure i.e if the image looks under or overexposed. The actual exposure is the same for both.
I believe highlight correction changes the set exposure, underexposing the image by 1EV (so in that sense it does affect the RAW image) and then brightens the JPG. This process can sometimes give unexpected results and may cause a significant difference in the apparent exposure of the RAW and JPG images. Another problem is when the user then dials in some EV compensation based on reviewing the embedded jpg on the rear screen only to find at a later date that the RAW file actually required a different or opposite adjustment.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
04-19-2015, 05:54 AM
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Make sure both highlight and shadow correction are switched off. If the exposure of the RAW images and JPGs don't match this can be the cause - it was on my K-30.
Although the corrections shouldn't affect the RAW images they certainly affect both the actual JPGs and the embedded JPGs you see on the rear screen when shooting RAW only.
An overexposed RAW image can appear correctly or underexposed when looking at the 'corrected' JPG and vice versa.
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
10-11-2014, 02:41 AM
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Despite reading through the numerous threads on focusing screens I am still confused which screen would suit best. Most of my lenses, both MF and AF, are zooms in the F3.5-4.5 range. The slowest is a F3.5-5.3. The focusing screen is to allow the accurate focusing of my MF zooms, particularly in the 28-75mm range. I find the AF focus confirm to be pretty accurate above 80mm but far too vague below about 75mm.
If necessary I am prepared to sacrifice spot metering but would not want to a significant change to the accuracy of centre-weighted up to F5.6. All my lenses have an 'A' setting so I do not use stop down metering. If I had more, faster, prime lenses I would go for the S-type screen but I am a little concerned about the darkness of the S screen in the F3.5-5.3 range. Would it spoil my enjoyment of my AF 24-90mm or a 18-135?
I am now wondering if the K-3 or even Ec-A or Ec-B screens might suit my lens selection better. I would prefer a focusingscreen.com screen to a katzeye one purely on grounds of cost particularly once tax and shipping to the UK have been factored in.
It would be great to hear of your experiences of the screens particularly if you have used more than one of them.
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