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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
01-11-2017, 07:24 PM
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This is mostly due to the presence of the damping material used. That material is usually foam that tends to harden and become less pliable with colder temperatures and ends up offering a harder than desired surface for the mirror slap.
---------- Post added 01-11-17 at 10:12 PM ----------
Its not IBIS that failed. Its the battery. You need to use specialty li-ion battery for that low a temperature. I understand your argument about it being a full battery. .. so allow me to explain. Li-ions discharge at -20degrees. Even if they don't their internal resistance becomes much higher dramatically reducing their C rating (the ability to supply sustained current at the specified voltage). IBIS is the most current demanding component in the K-1 and battery pretty much refuses to supply the minimum needed current to the IBIS (electromagnets). Now the obvious argument is that the battery meter icon is showing 100% so theoretically battery is full right? Correct. Battery is full and good enough to supply current just enough current to the less power hungry components of the system (you could still take pictures, its IBIS that stopped seemingly). When the battery warmed up it restored its C rating to meet the high current demands of IBIS and it worked as before.
Here is what i recommend. Try keeping your fully charged batteries warm and swap them often. LeFePO4 chemistry is more promising at low temps. NiCd AA can sustain low temperatures ad well. Use them in a battery grip. Use an external battery pack to power the camera and keep the battery pack close to your body inside your jacket. Chances are IBIS will continue to work as long as the battery is warm enough to supply minimum current needed.
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
01-11-2017, 06:00 PM
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I suspect there is a language or cultural issue here. To clarify a few points and explain the push back you often receive on this site:- The -10C number is the design specification, not the performance limit. The difference is real and not particularly subtle.
- Most other camera makes have a low temp design spec of 0C
- One is free to shoot at any temperature one pleases
- If one "bricks" their camera at -32C and make the mistake of leaving one's most recent shots on the SD card, One should not expect warranty coverage when EXIF shows the internal temp at -25C. This is not bad faith on the part of the maker.
- Unless one is a QA engineer, test-to-fail is not a valid use case, particularly if you don't want to risk "bricking" the camera
- Intentionally "bricking" camera and then complaining about the operational specs is illogical
- When operating out-of-spec, strange behavior is a matter of curiosity and not evidence of failure, inadequate design, or poor QC
- Complaining about strange behavior for out-of-spec operation is bad form
- Suggesting that that one no longer uses is better at out-of-spec operation than Pentax does not win friends or influence people on a Pentax-centric forum
- Persisting in the above has resulted in unhappy mods in the past. In extreme cases, banishment for life has been employed. (I am not a mod, so not a threat...just an observation.)
You Tube
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src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/0uMZi1gc0Nc?controls=1" allowfullscreen>
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Steve
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
11-25-2015, 01:25 PM
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I agree with all that in so far as you point out the crappy quality of most mass market developing and printing. And it's not just that the machine prints are likely to be anything from awful to good enough for granny. Some young minimum wage technician running the auto pilot machine may or may not ever change the chemicals on any proscribed basis much less make any other adjustment for quality. But it is not just the print but the negative that suffers too in this process. A crappy negative development scanned and saved to any format will be flawed more than the difference between jpg and tiff or raw or what have you.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
10-27-2015, 05:11 PM
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See the little screws that go into the sides of the mode dial/shutter button assembly? Make sure all of them are screwed in securely. If the one on the right hand side comes loose, the shutter button assembly will fall out if the camera is shaken or inverted and the inner plunger that bears upon the shutter release plate inside the camera will be lost. Then you will have a paperweight unless you can source a new one.
This happened to me and fortunately I was able to source and fit spares. Now I have a really excellent little camera for use with light, small primes in aperture priority mode 24/7. I think you'll have a lot of fun with yours.
Looking at this and the Q together makes you realise how easy it would be to make an ME-D or MX-D if only the will were there...
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Forum: Pentax Q
10-27-2015, 02:19 PM
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I think that is the essence of the Q line especially for those of us who do not have deep pockets or are on restrictive financial budgets. Sometimes folks forget what Blunty stressed in his You tube review of the original Q and then followed up with his review of the Q7. As he says, this camera is NOT for everyone and it was not meant to be. Shooters who want absolute pixel peeping sharpness and big enlargements should not buy into the Q system and those who want a small pocketable reasonably priced camera system for which they do not have to mortgage the house should not consider purchasing a full frame camera. In similar manner, people who want the performance of a Ferrari don’t buy a Fiat and only an idiot would go out and buy a Ferrari expecting to get the economy of operation afforded by a Fiat. |
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Forum: Pentax Q
10-26-2015, 10:55 PM
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Nicholas06, you need to re-read Adam's Q test. He pitted a Nikon D800 (36mp) against the Q for super telephoto use. The Nikon struggled against the Q. How many mirrorless cameras match a FF 36mp camera?
More people use the Q for extreme tele than you think. There are a lot of birders out there. Look at how many pages there are of Q lens adapters on Amazon or Ebay. Pentax could have done a lot more to market this. They should have put the Q, a DA*300 lens, Pentax Q>PK leaf shutter adapter, and their red dot scope in a birding package. Won't happen now with Ricoh's aversion to red dot scopes. A shame. Now Olympus has one on their camera.
The advantage of the Q is a certain Swiss Army knife quality. Super compact P&S one moment, superb street camera the next, amazing aerial pole or drone camera, followed by super telephoto monster. All of this with real camera handling and controls. Even Raw shooting is supported. There is nothing else like it. It may not be your primary camera, but it should be many people's 2nd or 3rd.
Thanks
barondla
---------- Post added 10-27-2015 at 01:02 AM ----------
Excellent processing Heinrich Lohmann. Always amazed the way you make a small sensor camera look like a large one. You should do some Qutorials on this. Superb work.
thanks
barondla
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Forum: Pentax Q
09-07-2015, 07:49 AM
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If you get only one non-Q lens, get the Pentax 110 50mm f. 2.8. Sharp, long throw, hand-holdable, and tiny, even with the adapter..
C mount lenses are great on the Q, but not cheap. D mount telephotos (38mm) can be good, but will be soft at the edges (nice for portraits.). CCTV lenses vary greatly in performance, usually not sharp edge to edge, but there are some exceptions.
You may find that the Promaster's performance is diffraction limited when stopped down.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
01-12-2015, 05:56 PM
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I agree, seems like CPL and ND can be useful, and postprocessing can likely handle the rest.
I put a clear filter on everything, as I walk through bush, kayak, hike often with the camera. Usually I just leave the filters on, however, I will try sample shots without when I think of it.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
01-12-2015, 10:10 AM
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Stacking dissimilar filters is a bad idea. Too much chance of creating a reflection chamber between them. The only time I will stack filters is with multiple NDs to create a factor I don't have in a single. For example, a +2 added to a +3 creates a +5, which I may not have. Otherwise, when I put on, say, a CPL, I take off the clear protection filter, etc. Adding one layer of glass in front of my lens I don't worry too much about. Adding two or more, I do worry about.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
01-12-2015, 06:54 AM
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We've gotten a little off the OP's main topic. Other than for Astrophotography of the Galactic Core (well wide field anyway) are their legitimate optical reasons for using a UV filter on Digital SLRs? The general consensus is no, there are no legitimate uses specifically for UV protection on modern cameras. Are there other filters that continue to have a legitimate use today? Yes, CPL and ND filters can produce effects that are either impossible in post-processing or very difficult an/or time consuming that are relatively easy and quick with a filter.
On the issue of protection filters - YMMV is the best answer. On a clear day with no blowing debris and no real chance of contact with the front element of my lens I do not use protection filters. On days when wind is pushing sand or other debris, or I'm in a situation where it is more likely that something may come into contact with my front element I do use a protection filter on most lenses - particularly on lenses with huge front elements. Filters are relatively easy to take off and put on, so if I have it with me its available for use but if I don't all I can do is put the lens cap on and then I can't take any photo. Yes, a hood is a huge plus and I use them religiously because they nearly always improve the photo. They also protect the lens to a degree. However, blowing sand is the perfect example of where the hood helps but not enough.
In my home, inside a gym, or frankly inside nearly anywhere - no filter. Outdoors with any risk of damage to the front element - probably have that filter with me. I do recommend looking at Lenstip's reviews. Maker is NOT the main determinant of quality in filters. There were really bad Hoya filters that cost a good bit on the list. When I do use a filter I try to get the best that I can optically to minimize its negatives.
That's my take on it.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
01-12-2015, 06:45 AM
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So take the filter off for those shots and put it back on to protect the lens later.
---------- Post added 01-12-15 at 07:51 ----------
What lens hood do you recommend in this situation? Is there a nice and compact one that has a force field to deflect FOD before it scratches the front element?
obin
:p
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
01-09-2015, 06:32 AM
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I have (or had) the same problem. I ordered the O-ME53 Pentax Magnifying Eyecup for $29. Here's the official description:
The Pentax O-ME53 Viewfinder Loupe magnifying eyecup works with all Pentax DSLR bodies and offers 1.2 times magnification over the entire image field. This is ideal for critical focusing (e.g. macro photography), and when using manual focus lenses.
If you search there is a thread for it. For me, it works perfect!
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
01-11-2015, 09:51 PM
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ND filters and circular polarizers are somewhat of a must have. As far as protective filters, that is a personal choice you make. I have had situations when they were a absolute lens saver. For instance I have had kids poking at my lenses, soda and beer splashed on them. While on vacation in Yellowstone my sister-in-law got too close to a geyser, and the hot spray burnt the coating on her filter. But the $2200 Nikon lens she was using was spared. There has been other situations where if I forgot to take them off, I would have problems. I make a point to keep a protector filter in my bag. It's like having a spare tire in your car, hopefully you won't need it, but if you do, you have it.
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
01-10-2015, 02:26 PM
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Overexposed is when too much light reaches the sensor; the photo is washed out to some extent. This could be the result of the shutter being open too long, or the lens aperture was to large, or the ISO setting was too high (or a combination of these). None of this should be applicable here because you simply transferred the setting used in AUTO to MANUAL.
Maybe it's time to reset the camera to it's default setting using the MENU. Then try your test again using the kit lens. Don't make any menu adjustments/settings changes before doing the test again. Remove and replace the lens to ensure it is mounted properly. Use a tripod if you have one. Otherwise, place the camera on something solid so it doesn't move at all between the two shots. Use the four-way controller on the back of the camera to select the 2 second delay for the shutter. Set it to AUTO and ensure the switch on the side of the camera to AFS. Half press the shutter to focus, then fully press the shutter to take the photo. I'd then move the switch on the side to MF as the camera doesn't need to refocus for a second shot. Set the model to MANUAL and input the aperture, shutter, and ISO settings. Take the second shot. The lighting when taking the two shots needs to be identical. No flash. The results should be identical. If not, perhaps you have problem with the camera and/or lens, with the lens not reaching the proper aperture.
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
12-26-2014, 09:02 PM
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I don't care for the usual neck straps, because they are designed to fit around your neck, which isn't very comfortable. I used to try to wear those across my chest like a sling and probably looked like a fool. Then found a longer strap which is perfect to wear as a sling:
Pentax Padded DSLR Camera Strap 85232 B&H Photo Video
As you can see, this one is a genuine Pentax branded thing, which by itself is kinda cool because it helped another fellow Pentaxian spot me at a street fair a year ago, and now we are photography buddies.
Some other popular brands include Optech or Blackrapid. They can get expensive. Those have a larger ecosystem of interchangeable straps/fasteners so you can really go crazy, mixing and matching. But for me, I never felt the need to go with a "system" approach, one long strap is good enough for me.
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
12-19-2014, 07:35 AM
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I've told this story before but it stands repeating. I was at a launch at Kennedy a couple years ago and the weather turned on us. Everyone else in the viewing area except two pros and I ran for cover. One of the pros, trying to be a nice guy, suggested that with my non-FF camera I ought to head for cover too. I explained that my K-5 was WR and he started to lecture me about if it weren't a pro camera it couldn't be. At that point the other pro leaned over and said "He's shooting Pentax" whereupon the discussion changed :).
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
12-12-2014, 08:06 AM
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Hi,
I am a newcomer in this forum , from Jakarta, Indonesia
I am very glad that my SMC Pentax 49 mm F 1.4 old lens can be used with my New K-50 in AUTO mode, of course focusing manually.
The flower is one of the result :D
Regards, PW. Purwanto
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