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Forum: Photographic Industry and Professionals 05-23-2015, 01:08 PM  
A good reason to never use Instagram
Posted By SpecialK
Replies: 17
Views: 3,024
Blatant theft.

By that reasoning I could stick "ta da" on the end of Beatle songs and sell them as my own.
Forum: Monthly Photo Contests 03-08-2015, 05:11 AM  
Soldier by Day, Pentaxian by Night
Posted By Heie
Replies: 14
Views: 1,355


;)

-Heie
Forum: General Photography 12-05-2014, 08:23 AM  
Beautiful macro snowflake images
Posted By Doundounba
Replies: 23
Views: 3,855
Sure. I viewed snowflake shooting as an occasion to experiment with technique, so I used many different set-ups. (If you look at my Snowflakes Macro album, each shot includes a description of material used.)

Basically, on an APS-C camera, I think you need something that will get you at least 2.5:1 macro magnification to start getting interesting shots. Flakes do vary quite significantly in size and I like to be able to try both somewhat "wider" shots as well as "close-ups" of individual flakes. This means I like to use a set-up that makes it easy to change the macro magnification I'm getting. In order to achieve this, the technique I used most often last winter was coupled reversed lens with a zoom as the reversed lens. My primary is either a Pentax-M 135mm F/3.5 or a Pentax-M 150mm F/3.5 and the secondary I liked most is an old Sigma 24-70mm zoom. Both lenses are at left at infinity focus and focus is achieved by moving the whole camera back and forth. Magnification is given by the ratio of focal lengths used, and so is controlled by changing the focal length on the reversed zoom (e.g. 135mm on the primary and 50mm on the zoom gives you 2.7:1). Both lenses are stopped down, but it's more important to stop down the reversed lens as much as possible. I've now moved to external flash, but all last winter my light was provided by the onboard flash, using a "Pringles can" flash diffuser. K-01 plus 135mm plus 24-70mm zoom plus Pringles diffuser makes for a comparatively light and compact set-up.

I usually shoot snow that is accumulating on a hard surface, which allows me to use my left hand to steady the lens (my hand "connects" the camera to the hard surface). This is very important because at 3:1 (or more) it is extremely difficult to be steady enough to even frame, focus, and shoot. I find that interesting formations can often be discovered on narrow surfaces (like the railings on stairs for instance) where you get an "edge" and aren't just shooting at a wide flat surface. Usually, along that edge, it's possible to find flakes that "stick out", so that the photo has a clear subject...

Does that make sense? I hope it does... :)


Flakes In Situ (March 22, 2014) #2 by Doundounba, on Flickr
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