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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
01-22-2022, 01:32 PM
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Dear Kai-Luke
no offense. You did great work.
Yes today I thoroughly inspected the solenoid and could not find scratches.
May be because I polished the plunger after having sanded it.
May be the material kicks in when there is more space between horseshoe an corpus because it will more likely jam when not properly aligned.
When you screw down the solenoid there is about 0,5mm clearance where you can "rotate" it.
Additionally I had polished the sharp edges of the plunger with 1000er wet sanding paper.
But in the end, this only is a temporary solution and all of us know this. But 5 years is not bad, is it?
I did never pay much attention to the unit I received from Merz in 2017.
I just opened the wrapping and unscrewed the solenoid. Separated and stored it.
But today I discovered that they had added a second single plunger - edges rounded - ??? What for?
I guess that they in 2017 already had been aware about the cause of the failures.
My recommendation for all you courageous users: File down the inner sides of the shoe, sand them fine and then polish them. Only a third at first. Don't forget to polish the sharp edges.
And order a replacement solenoid for safety reasons.
Greetings and stay healthy
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
01-21-2022, 02:13 PM
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Good evening to all
on January 2017 I filed and sanded the green solenoid of my K-S1. Only the inner sides of the horseshoe. One third, 45 degree.
And last week five years later first shots became dark again.
Simultaneously (2017) I had ordered a replacement from our local Pentax-Service in Hamburg just for safety reasons.
And I got an entire shutter unit with a green solenoid - of course!
I immediately detached the solenoid and stored both parts of it separated over the years.
In between, I very rarely used the camera. Actually, it lay unused in the closet all these years because I preferred other interests.
May be I have taken a hundred shots.
Today I replaced the solenoid.
And after five years storage - my K-S1 is flawlessly back again.
So here is my conclusion:
PET or PTFE does not matter!
What does mater is usage = The horseshoe is becoming more and more magnetized in rest and finally won't released.
That has been first thoughts of our Russian friends.
Yours sincerely
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Forum: Pentax K-S1 & K-S2
12-04-2019, 03:53 AM
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The ball: might be the AF/MF switch?
I remember a ball related "warning" from a disassembling instruction but can't find it anymore.
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
04-29-2018, 06:34 PM
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Hello
This "white/green solenoid" discussion now is obsolete due to a lack of any solid and reliable technical information.
Please do stop it and don't confuse future sufferes.
Pentax won't react but the cure is pretty obvious. Sand your solenoid the propper way and you'll be ok.
My K-S1, being surgeried in January 2017, still is flawlessly working.
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Forum: Pentax K-S1 & K-S2
04-27-2017, 03:57 PM
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Hello
K-S1 aperture block problem and possibly - a free and easy remedy - PentaxForums.com
Since my repair in January my K-S1 is still working :).
Simple test:
Just mount a prime lens and hold the camera towards a bright light.
Now change the shutter speed until aperture value reaches it's lowest value - e.g. F1.7.
Now press the shutter release while looking sidelong into the lens.
The aperture blades should open wide.
If they remain fully closed your camera most likely has a bad aperture block - unfortunately.
Good luck
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
04-02-2017, 12:26 PM
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Here is how I would approach this task:
Firstly separate the screws by their threads. Use a loupe.
There are screws going into metal with a tight thread.
There are screws going into plastic with a wider/steeper thread.
Secondly separate the screws by their diameters. Use a caliper, not a ruler.
Thirdly measure the hole's depth with an appropriate drill (1 to 2 mm I guess) and compare this to the screw's length.
Use a caliper.
Fourthly take your time, do not try to screw them in with force and you'll be safe.
Bit of advice:
When screwing in, firstly carefully and softly turn your screwdriver counter clockwise until you hear/feal a very gentle "click".
And that's where you know that both threads are "biting".
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
02-28-2017, 02:13 PM
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Replacement, manufactured 11/2016, is green.
Coil resistance is ~ 31 Ohm.
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Forum: Pentax K-S1 & K-S2
01-22-2017, 03:33 PM
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This was my first thought when the dark pictures occure and heating up the camera (temporarily) did cure the failure.
But after examinating the entire mechanism I have to admit: I don't know but I doubt this.
It's the magnetic cohesion or a combination of cohesion and induction, I assume.
I've read the 230 pages/30MB French documentation that someone mentioned in the K30/K50 thread. This ingenious guy's conclusion was: Guesses.
You should speak Russian so I suggest to contact the Russian forum.
From what Google translate gave me they are very helpfully and politely.
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
01-21-2017, 03:35 PM
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Forum: Pentax K-S1 & K-S2
01-21-2017, 03:09 PM
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An update dedicated to AldaCz and other affected K-S1 owners:
My solution did not last.
After about 50 shots my K-S1 went back to the "black picture status".
So I decided to go the russian way which is filing/sanding down the inner edges of the U-shaped metal piece inside the solenoid.
Why? Because this is reported as the repair procedure with the highest probability of success. I've read russian, french, german and english posts but there is no logical or plausible explanation. Only guesses and less or more successful workarounds. Additionally, I have soldered leads which a thicker profile.
All I can tell so far: After a long winter walk (-5°C to +20°C) my camera is still working. Beautiful snow pictures.
I will not publish any detailed steps of disassembling, repairing, assembling the K-S1 due to safety and responsibility reasons.
And I'm not willing to assist anyone via private message unless you proof your skills. Otherwise I strongly recommed to contact your repair center.
I'll keep you informed.
Here is a picture of my K-S1's innards before surgery:
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
01-15-2017, 05:27 PM
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Yep, I'm willing to go back. But this thingy NAH?
Was zum Teufel meint das?
Hey, google translate.
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Forum: Pentax K-S1 & K-S2
01-15-2017, 05:13 PM
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I appreciate your comment. But No! It is not sticky blades. It's a bad aperture block.
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
01-14-2017, 09:10 PM
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excellent
My English/US-English teacher always complained: You gave us Adjektive.
Followed by: But hey, we gave you idioms.
And I can tell you: Idioms by far are harder to learn than adjectives.
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
01-14-2017, 08:33 PM
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I really appreciate your comment. But it's the aperture block.
Let me explain: Under all lightning conditions F-stop went to F22.
I saw that looking at the lens when shooting LEDs and older glowing filament lamps from a near distance.
The picture shows the filament. It's not black. It's underexposured.
This is why those pictures are not black but "underexposured". A common mistake in this thread.
@not a number
Agreed. It's very very unlikely that heating up the cam to 40°C will alter the solenoid's magnetization.
My assumption of my solution: It's melting lube or material fatigue. I don't know.
All I know: It is working.
Meanwhlie I have ordered a genuine spare part aperture block which costs me 45€.
Depending on further tests this thing will find a way into my cam, to ebay or is being stocked.
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Forum: Pentax K-S1 & K-S2
01-14-2017, 07:33 PM
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Steve, I didn't consider this but I completely agree. My first thought was: Here we have another serious serial failure problem not only related to K30/K50 but also to the K-S1.
So here we go:
#269
And here is the first K-S1 with an aperture block failure.
Mine has started two days ago with black (heavily underexposured) pictures.
Battery in and out temporarily solved the issue but today the mechanism totally went stuck.
But I have made a very interesting discovery.
Carefully heating up the body (battery out) to 40°C on a radiator cured the problem - completely!
Unfortunately the black picture phenomenon returned as the camera cooled down to normal temperature (20°C).
Now I have to shoot two to five pictures before I get properly exposured photos.
May be this finding will help us finding the cause and hopefully a permant solution.
#272
AFAIK no one did report a faulty K-S1 in the forum's survey. But that's not the point.
Meanwhile I'm still testing. Results are promising but not satisfying so far.
The camera went from totally dead to a working state now after 1 to 3 black shots.
Perhaps somebody can repeat my procedure and post their result?
Heating up the camera to 40°C should be safe. User manual says 0 to 40. Battery and SD-Card removed. Carddoor open.
I place a thick book between the camera plus thermometer and the radiator.
I let the camera heaten up for 2 hours. Then gave it a burst shot (30-40).
I let it cool down for 2 hours and gave it a burst shot. Exposing it to different light will engage all aperture values. SD-Card not needed.
The second time I have put the camera upside down.
Now I'm continuing with both sides. Same procedure.
If this will fail I'm going to open the camera and try the repair procedure as it's described in this thread.
#273
Now, one day after, the camera is working as it should.
Correct exposure with both aperture and shutter speed from the beginning.
I do believe that heating up the camera's side where the solenoid is positioned did the trick.
I only can confirm this for my K-S1 and of course I don't know how other models will react to this method.
But I recommend this procedure before trying a self repair or sending it to a repair center.
Kind regards
Heribert
Who's interested in the whole story should read all posts in the K30/K50 sector.
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
01-14-2017, 07:09 PM
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@paolo11
What made me trying? A serious question. Simple. Stiffy lube as a first assumption because it's unlikely thats coils age (shorten or not shorten in most cases - ok, overheating and melting wire isolation are rare but possible) and magnetization does not magically disappear. Consider hard disks with ultra strong magnets and how long they work under various environments! But transistor drivers do age.
So you have three possible causes: Electronic, mechanic or intermediate elements (lube). Then apply basic logic and structured tests.
@paolo11 and @niceshot
Your comments are funny but not helpfully. Related to your age? That's funny!
You always are free to go the Russian way with the risk of damaging other parts of your camera.
This is not my way. Symptom follows cause and not vice versa.
In a German forum (My native language btw.) somebody reported their K30 twice repaired by an official Ricoh repair center.
This in mind I have started my tests.
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Forum: Pentax K-S1 & K-S2
01-14-2017, 01:58 PM
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
01-14-2017, 01:35 PM
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Now, one day after, the camera is working as it should.
Correct exposure with both aperture and shutter speed from the beginning.
I do believe that heating up the camera's side where the solenoid is positioned did the trick.
I only can confirm this for my K-S1 and of course I don't know how other models will react to this method.
But I recommend this procedure before trying a self repair or sending it to a repair center.
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
01-12-2017, 06:13 PM
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AFAIK no one did report a faulty K-S1 in the forum's survey. But that's not the point.
Meanwhile I'm still testing. Results are promising but not satisfying so far.
The camera went from totally dead to a working state now after 1 to 3 black shots.
Perhaps somebody can repeat my procedure and post their result?
Heating up the camera to 40°C should be safe. User manual says 0 to 40. Battery and SD-Card removed. Carddoor open.
I place a thick book between the camera plus thermometer and the radiator.
I let the camera heaten up for 2 hours. Then gave it a burst shot (30-40).
I let it cool down for 2 hours and gave it a burst shot. Exposing it to different light will engage all aperture values. SD-Card not needed.
The second time I have put the camera upside down.
Now I'm continuing with both sides. Same procedure.
If this will fail I'm going to open the camera and try the repair procedure as it's described in this thread.
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
01-12-2017, 03:03 PM
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And here is the first K-S1 with an aperture block failure.
Mine has started two days ago with black (heavily underexposured) pictures.
Battery in and out temporarily solved the issue but today the mechanism totally went stuck.
But I have made a very interesting discovery.
Carefully heating up the body (battery out) to 40°C on a radiator cured the problem - completely!
Unfortunately the black picture phenomenon returned as the camera cooled down to normal temperature (20°C).
Now I have to shoot two to five pictures before I get properly exposured photos.
May be this finding will help us finding the cause and hopefully a permant solution.
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Forum: Pentax Camera and Field Accessories
07-09-2016, 08:04 AM
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Successfully connected FluCard and Chrome on my tablet.
Live view, settings, etc. Everything is fully functional and working.
Very strange and provisional solution:
In Windows 10 WiFi-adapter/IP4 settings I assigned a static ip: 192.168.1.50
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Forum: Pentax Camera and Field Accessories
07-08-2016, 02:19 PM
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Not a number: Appreciate your hint!
I too guess it's the WiFi on the tablet - hardware or software? Yet I don't know. I'm checking.
I've monitored and logged the simple and plain network TCP without a connected browser and I've got this:
08-Jul-16 00:27:03 Listen 192.168.1.50 0.0.0.0 139 0 4 System System
08-Jul-16 00:27:13 Close 192.168.1.50 0.0.0.0 139 0 4 System System
08-Jul-16 00:27:23 Listen 169.254.218.13 0.0.0.0 139 0 4 System System
08-Jul-16 00:27:34 Listen 192.168.1.50 0.0.0.0 139 0 4 System System
08-Jul-16 00:27:34 Close 169.254.218.13 0.0.0.0 139 0 4 System System and so on.......
IP 169.254.218.13 isn't a valid IP-address. Windows will pick this IP when no other option is available.
So far so Google
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Forum: Pentax Camera and Field Accessories
07-06-2016, 08:43 AM
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Oh clackers, my problem is not browser related!! Why do you permanently insist on this Firefox thing?
The FluCard is working fine, stable, reliable on my Windows 7 PCs with Chrome!!
And it's not working on my Windows 10 tablet with Chrome.
Perhaps it is a protocol issue. Maybe Windows 10 is rejecting the data that are being sent from the FluCard.
All I know is that the WiFi-connection to the FluCard is very unstable. But only to the FluCard's network.
The connection to my router's network via WiFi is working flawlessly.
Uninstalled/reinstalled the Wifi adapter, updated the driver, resetted the TCP settings, deactivated the firewall - none did the trick.
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Forum: Pentax Camera and Field Accessories
07-05-2016, 03:41 PM
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From Ricoh's FAQ:
Q：What are the software requirements of the communication device to operate with the O-FC1?
A：Android OS 4.2 or higher, Chrome browser IOS 6 or higher, Safari browser
Firefox: My experience and other sources on the net.
IE11 and edge do support the flucard's settings and commands. Only live view will not work because these browsers cannot read/display the specific video stream format.
No Flash plugin required. With Chrome (Chromium portable to be more specific) the app runs on both Windows 7 x86 and x64.
Chrome does have some privacy issues so I recommend Chromium.
I will dive deeper into the Windows 7/10 network settings and compare all settings side by side.
Any additional thoughts are welcome. Thanks all.
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Forum: Pentax Camera and Field Accessories
07-05-2016, 12:03 PM
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Chrome, Safari and Firefox are suppoted. I installed Firefox and got a live view - for one second!
So I started monitoring the WiFi connection and found the problem is driver or harware related. Maybe it's the WiFi settings.
The connection is not stable. It drops every few seconds. Requests or commands are sent to the camera but there is no steady datastream back to the browser.
I double checked every WiFi-connection setting but couldn't find a solution.
The connection to my router in contrast is very stable and reliable. I downloaded a 500MB file without any interruption.
And on my Windows 7 netbook it's working flawlessly. Same browser, same network settings - I'm clueless.
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