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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
09-13-2011, 01:33 AM
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A piece of aluminum foil between the body and the extension tube fixed it. I'll remove the anodized layer from the the tube later on.
I still find it strange that the k10d doesn't have the same problem.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
09-13-2011, 01:04 AM
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Hi,
I bought a second hand PK extension tube set. On my K10d it works like expected. It has a diaphragm lever so I put the camera in M mode, set the aperture using the aperture ring (I have some AF lenses) and do a stop-down metering.
This doesn't work on the K-5. The camera doesn't try to close the aperture, neither when doing a stop-down metering nor when doing a DoF preview. The K-5 does detect there's something in front of it because it asks for the focal length. The 'allow aperture ring' settings is on allowed.
Any idea what could cause this problem?
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
06-27-2011, 11:08 AM
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While traveling in China, my DA21 got a very loose focus ring. I was able to move the front part of the lens assembly for a few millimeters.
A quick google thought me I'm not the only one with this problem:
focusing ring "play" and viewfinder image shift question: Pentax SLR Talk Forum: Digital Photography Review
Obviously, sending it in for repair was not an option. Since it wasn't under warranty anymore, I took the risk to try and fix it myself. Using a set of locally sourced screwdrivers I disassembled the lens. This was harder than expected but do-able. The screws inside are very small. I started at the back of the lens, unaware of the hidden screws at the front. Working my way towards the front of the lens. As the lens was almost completely disassembled, I found the cause of the problem: three little screws had come loose. No broken parts. It took me about an hour in total to take it apart and re-assemble it.
Now, I didn't know there are screws at the front behind the ring right around the front element and/or the ring with the lens details. I think you can just remove those to fix the loose screws. The rings are glued on. You can remove them with a small knife. The lens should be fixed in 15min. I'm not sure if you can access them like that as my lens was already fully taken apart.
120usd is a lot to fix 3 screws which shouldn't come loose in the first place! All parts seemed to be of very high quality though, just like the outside. Almost all metal.
I'm glad I got my lens back but this shouldn't happen to a ltd lens and shows Pentax has some serious QC issues.
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Forum: Pentax News and Rumors
01-24-2011, 03:54 AM
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FYI: K-5's price in the Netherlands has been very stable so far
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Forum: Pentax News and Rumors
12-14-2010, 05:19 AM
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Here is an example for the 16-50 f2.8 which shows the CA removal. It's a crop of a corner.
update: added another picture. Vignetting and distortion is also well corrected.
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Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II
12-07-2010, 05:47 AM
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Here are the images:
Should this count as a yes or a no?
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Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II
12-07-2010, 02:42 AM
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2 small stains, 1 barely noticeable.
s/n 3832045, bought in Belgium.
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Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II
11-30-2010, 06:54 AM
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It would indeed just be an option to show it because the camera already calculates the hyperfocal distance! It's present in the Exif data.
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Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
11-28-2010, 08:33 AM
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I can recommend the HCFR tool with an X-rite Display2 colorimeter. It's not that hard. I used it to calibrate my Samsung TV which has a full CMS (color management system). There's no need to go into the service menu.
If you use a pc as an input device, you can create a color profile as you would for a normal pc monitor. I did this to correct the small remaining calibration errors. I can highly recommend DispCalGUI over the software which comes supplied with the colorimeters.
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Forum: Pentax News and Rumors
11-24-2010, 02:45 AM
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The blog article states SNR 47dB and the video shows a scene DR of 71db.
Doing a log_10->log_2 conversion gives a DR of 15.6EV and 23.5EV.
(disclaimer: I'm not sure that's a completely valid conversion...)
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Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II
11-18-2010, 07:59 AM
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Bats asked for a timer/second counter and I think Falk understood that, but Falk argued that it would be more useful too just be able to dial in the exposure time. I agree to this and I bet Bats would do so too as he uses his cell phone to time his shots. Being able to enter the exposure time directly on the camera is easier and more precise than using a separate timer. The counter, or maybe count-down timer, would still be useful to see how far you are with your exposure though.
I'd like to request both features ;)
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Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II
11-17-2010, 01:21 AM
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No need to convert it to some other format if using Photomatix, it can open DNG files.
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Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II
11-16-2010, 04:28 PM
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cem.kumuk, could you provide us with the RAW file of the 0 shot, and maybe the -2 shot? I would like to try and see if the single file with a different tone-mapping can come close to the (tonemapped) HDR file. Thanks!
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Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II
11-16-2010, 05:40 AM
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Why? If you have no clipped highlights in the -2, the -2 is better as it will have more shadow detail you can lift. The single shot will always be a compromise, either you have less shadow detail or you have clipped highlights.
Of course it's a tone-mapped HDR file but IMHO, a 14bit DNG is a HDR file as its range exceeds the range of a monitor and has to be tone-mapped too. How it looks just depends on the tone-mapping.
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Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II
11-16-2010, 02:40 AM
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Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II
11-15-2010, 02:36 PM
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You can't set them more than 2EV apart, so [-2,+2] isn't possible.
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Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II
11-15-2010, 09:38 AM
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I'm asking for bigger steps in-between each shot, not more shots. Less shots for the same result actually. This would shorten the time between your first and last shot, and thus make hand-held HDR easier.
An example:
Suppose you have a scene which ranges from 2LV to 24LV. You'd need a DR of 22EV.
Each shot can take 14EV.
You would expose your 0 shot to capture 6-20LV
-2 captures 4-18LV
-4 captures 2-16LV
+2 captures 8-22LV
+4 captures 10-24LV
Since the -4 shot captures LV2-16 and the +4 captures LV10-24, you could get the same DR using just these two shot. (disclaimer: I haven't actually tried this:))If the full 14EV were to be captured perfectly noise-free you could use a difference of 14EV between each shot and a 2 shot AEB-HDR would give you a DR of 28EV. I'm not sure how much the ranges of each shot have to overlap in practice, but I don't see why the difference can't be a lot more than 2EV.
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Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II
11-15-2010, 05:28 AM
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I would like exposure bracketing with bigger EV steps. 4 or even 5 EV.
With a DR of 14EV, a 2EV difference is to small. At 14.1EV, a single K-5 file should almost match a K-7 [-2,0,2] bracketed exposure so you could just as well skip the [-2,2] and take a [-4,0,4] shot. Oh, and an option to skip the 0 shot altogether. If you take a -2 0 2 shot, the 0 adds nothing because it's well within the overlapping range of the other shots. [-2,2] would be great for handheld HDR.
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Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II
11-15-2010, 03:19 AM
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If the DNG has no blown highlights and the shadows have enough detail, which seems to be the case, than these images just show a different tone-mapping of the same range.
With a DR of 14.1EV, the K-5 files really can be used as HDR files.
A K-7 bracketed -2 0 +2 shot has a DR of 14.6, only half a stop more than a single shot k-5 file.
Here's an example:
original
adjusted dng
exporting to sRGB jpg, destroying the dynamic and tonal range, and trying to recover from the jpg
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Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II
10-28-2010, 02:56 AM
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
09-30-2010, 02:35 PM
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Forum: Pentax Camera and Field Accessories
09-10-2010, 01:26 AM
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I can recommend the Ortlieb camera dry-bags. These are dry-bags designed and padded for cameras.
I have the "Aqua Cam". It fits a K10d with a 16-50 and some small accessories like a spare battery etc.
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
07-20-2009, 11:00 AM
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wow, that cat looks exactly like mine!
going with the tuxedo -> tux -> linux theme she's called Linux :)
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Forum: Photographic Technique
06-05-2009, 07:38 AM
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I checked out Helix and Central Camera. They had almost no Pentax stuff.
The only prime CC had in stock was the DA 40mm ltd. :(
Central Camera is a nice store though. They have some cool things, including a lot of old glass.
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
05-28-2009, 12:01 PM
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Ignoring the problems you mention further down your post, my setup would work like this:
I choose some aperture using the aperture ring and I do a stop down meter with the green button. This gives the camera the ratio between wide open and stopped down. This would be the only time you do an explicit metering.
As soon as the lighting conditions change, the camera would calculate a new shutter speed (using the measured ratio and the implicit continuous wide open metering), just like with an A lens in Av mode.
You wouldn't notice you're using an M lens till you change the aperture and have to do a new stop down metering to get the new ratio.
The (strange) non-linearity in your post is of course a problem but I would gladly dial down the max aperture together with the focal length when putting on a new lens.
It wouldn't be as good as a mechanical aperture coupler but it would be a big improvement over the current implementation IMHO and could all be done in firmware.
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