|
Forum: Monthly Photo Contests
05-05-2018, 12:27 PM
|
| |
I would like to nominate this photo
|
|
Forum: Monthly Photo Contests
05-02-2018, 07:17 PM
|
| |
I would like to nominate this photo
|
|
Forum: Monthly Photo Contests
05-03-2018, 09:00 AM
|
| |
I would like to nominate this photo
|
|
Forum: Monthly Photo Contests
05-03-2018, 10:03 AM
|
| |
| |
|
Forum: Monthly Photo Contests
05-02-2018, 01:11 PM
|
| |
| |
|
Forum: Photographic Technique
04-05-2018, 12:45 PM
|
| |
I believe the NIkon one works for pentax
|
|
Forum: Photographic Technique
04-05-2018, 08:30 AM
|
| |
Does the Yongnuo Flash Controller for Canon work with Pentax?
|
|
Forum: Photographic Technique
04-05-2018, 07:47 AM
|
| |
It's one of those things that just takes practice and familiarity. #1 skill though is having a nice smile. Meaning you have to somehow get people to be comfortable with you shoving a camera and flash in their face.
|
|
Forum: Photographic Technique
04-05-2018, 04:54 AM
|
| |
This is going to take you long to learn. You have to be dedicated to some extent.
You might need some new gear. For flash you are looking for something around the GN58 area.
You have to learn how to communicated with people. Where to stand, what things to look for and to shoot, etc.
You can learn your trade by offering to shoot for free to understand the dynamics.
How much you will learn over time depends on how often you get to shoot.
I feel like I am still young in learning this trade. But I have also come to understand the whole routine goes.
|
|
Forum: Photographic Technique
04-05-2018, 03:55 AM
|
| |
I used to use Yongnuo flashes and for the price it's hard to beat. The catch of course is at that price point you have quality control issues. I would say definitely use the 660 manual flash. It is very powerful. I only had one Yongnuo flash die in me after about 2 years. I know some photographers that bought 3 only to get one good one. Before buying flash look at all of your options there are a few. I would have stayed with Yongnuo but decided to switch to Adorama's Flashpoint system (the same as Godox). Why? Because I was able to get a Monolight and their AD360 that would all use the same wireless flash trigger. By no means go out and buy all this but consider the ability to expand your system.
In regards to using Flash, I recommend you buy only one and learn how to use it. You need to master bounce flash and off camera flash. So I recommend get an umbrella, a light stand, and a wireless trigger. For on camera flash I use a Rogue Flashbender. A lot of people I see are using the Magmod products too. It's really up to you. Their are a lot of tutorials on Youtube for using a flash. However, I have found that the tutorials on Kelby One to be exceptional. They are more thorough and more focused. They also have wonderful wedding photography tutorials. The key is to watch something and practice, practice, practice. Check out photo critiques. You will learn a lot. Once you get a handle on on-camera flash. Start playing with off camera flash. Only use one light. When you get a handle on one light, start to introduce a second light etc..
I would agree with everyone else. Assist a photographer. I did a lot of free assisting just so that I could learn. Also bring your camera and when you have an opportunity take a few shots to practice and this way you could start building your portfolio. If you can, go to events and just shoot so that you can practice. I learned my event lighting by shooting at parties that I was invited to and brought my equipment. Since it is free you have nothing to lose. Lord knows how I messed up controling my external flashes, but guess what, I learned what not to do.
Good luck, and keep posting questions.
|
|
Forum: Photographic Technique
04-05-2018, 12:26 AM
|
| |
Hi everyone. I didn't know where to post this but I figured here would be the best since I'm not asking how to start a business but rather the best way to develop a certain set of skills. I've been doing amateur photography for a few years now, as some of you may have seen from the photos I post I mainly take shots of the nature areas near my home. Since I do photography so much and really enjoy it I was considering trying to move towards doing things like weddings or events, but I don't have any of the skills to do so.
I was wondering if you guys could recommend some exercises/books to do/read to help with different skills associated with more people related shots, and busy/unpredictable scenes. I also feel like something dealing with flashes would also be really useful since almost everything I've done has been with natural or available indoor light. And on the topic of flashes a recommendation for a decent inexpensive flash/flashes would be most helpful as well.
|
|
Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
03-24-2018, 05:18 AM
|
| |
| |
|
Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
03-25-2018, 05:54 AM
|
| |
| |
|
Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
03-24-2018, 06:15 PM
|
| |
Had a successful boat trip upriver yesterday to photograph the Island Lake/Picacho Peak viewpoint I discovered a few years ago.
|
|
Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
03-24-2018, 05:39 PM
|
| |
| |
|
Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
03-25-2018, 04:15 PM
|
| |
Last of the formation flying flutterby's :(
smc PENTAX-DA* 300mm F4 ED [IF] SDM ƒ/6.3 300.0 mm 1/2500 ISO640
smc PENTAX-DA* 300mm F4 ED [IF] SDM ƒ/7.1 300.0 mm 1/3200 ISO640
smc PENTAX-DA* 300mm F4 ED [IF] SDM ƒ/7.1 300.0 mm 1/3200 ISO640
|
|
Forum: Pentax K-3 & K-3 II
03-03-2018, 03:41 PM
|
| |
We've completed our CP+ interview, but it may be another day or two before the video is ready for uploading. One of the things we asked was whether the K-1 line would essentially be the only K-mount flagship, or if they planned to have a model between the K-1 and KP. They reiterated that they are working on a K-3 successor, so the KP isn't and was never meant to be the top APS-C model. However, it seems that the K-3 successor won't be able to come out as early as they had wanted.
|
|
Forum: Weekly Photo Challenges
03-22-2018, 02:53 AM
|
| |
I's been another diverse and colorful round of picture of the week - Thank you to all those contributing, and those viewing. I'll close this thread here, and have just started one for the next weeks' challenge. Remember if you'd like to host please contact me, and if you'd like to put pictures you are pleased with forward then the new thread can be found at;
Picture of the Week (POTW) # 497 - Covering period 14 to 28 March 2018 - PentaxForums.com |
|
Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
03-22-2018, 09:12 AM
|
| |
I generally just do the native 3x2 ratio, with the idea that I only have to use the same frames and matting. (Though the confusingly "somewhat unusual size" of the DSLR frame does make them less common than the 5x7, 8x10 frames sizes.) I occasionally do crop, usually something kind of square, or 5x7 if I want to give someone a slightly larger photo that's not as big as 8x10 or so.
Though I also do panoramas, and those are all over the map.
|
|
Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
03-22-2018, 09:22 AM
|
| |
My best print is a 3:1 stitched landscape. I used Nations Photo Lab to print on metallic paper and mount on gatorboard. I later framed with wood moulding, no glass needed with metallic paper, no back needed with gatorboard.
I don't print much so I'm mostly unconstrained by framing needs when cropping. 2:1 crops work well for landscapes that have an uninteresting sky. 1:1 crops work for street photography of crowded scenes, cutting distractions away to feature a central subject. Those crops do cause wasted screen space, but I'd rather have black bars instead of ugly content.
3:1 wide landscape crops, or any vertical portrait crops are okay for printing, but not so good for computer monitors and TV displays because too much wasted space. Tablets do a good job for vertical portraits because they are so easy to rotate.
|
|
Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
03-22-2018, 10:10 AM
|
| |
I want to point out that while I frame for what I want. I wear glasses and can't see the entire frame fully when using an optical viewer - particularly with a magnifier on for critical focus. I did shoot largely transparencies so I was used to framing for what final output would be - and still strive for it. But I find freedom in being able to do manipulations in post that I could have only done with a darkroom and an excessive amount of time (interneg, then print anyone?) - the move from darkroom to computer has been a real bonus in my eyes. I do normally limit my post processing to more realistic things that would be possible in the old wet processing world but occasionally flights of fancy run amok and I do weird and wild stuff. Ultimately I think what drives this best is your own art aesthetic. Unless you have to sell your work and need to conform to client demands.
---------- Post added 03-22-18 at 01:10 PM ----------
Awesome! Glad to have helped.
|
|
Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
03-22-2018, 12:09 PM
|
| |
How you choose your aspect ratio depends not only depends on the composition but also on the final destination of the image. If you're targeting a print like journal, a newspaper, a book, a banner, etc then the ratio may already be defined for you. It's your job as the photographer to make it all fit so to speak. If you're final destination is purely digital, like online posting and sharing, then you're free to crop however you like.
I try to stick with "standard" aspect ratios when printing ... but I've also gone off the rails and done wacky stuff too. When printing I pick the closest possible aspect ratio to minimize white bands on the side of the photo (i.e. less to trim off). If the print (or collection of prints) is big enough then my local shop will print them on a 44" wide Epson printer and trim them for me.
|
|
Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
03-22-2018, 12:32 PM
|
| |
It can be counterproductive, trying to comply with some orthodox principle like Rule of Thirds by aggressively cropping to an unorthodox aspect ratio.
Best to get that right in camera. :)
Something in a weird aspect ratio draws attention to itself, as if it's a product of the shooter's mistake.
I don't mean a panorama, or an edge composition or something where the artistic intent is clear, but the ones that scream out "I took the shot too late, there's an awkward person at the bottom left, I'll just crop them out."
|
|
Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
03-22-2018, 07:37 AM
|
| |
I must say that for some reason that I don't entirely understand I try to stick to the set LR crops which are by and large the traditional shapes. I do sometimes zoom the crop in, so to speak, but I seldom change its ratio. This probably has something to do with envisaging the final image as far as possible in camera, and the need for custom crops is something that you can usually avoid by moving the camera, so I suppose I regard them as something of a failure - except when they are unavoidable. I suppose I don't want to give myself too much PP freedom - a hangover from shooting transparencies, perhaps.
|
|
Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
03-22-2018, 07:22 AM
|
| |
In my case, Crop size depends entirely on how the image is to be displayed. In creating the image, that is always part of the composition process. And many times, a compromise between ratios. I usually leave a little wiggle room for adjustments in post.
|
