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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
06-18-2009, 02:46 AM
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They don't make 'em like they used to.
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Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom
01-19-2012, 08:47 AM
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Plus the cost of a new room on the house to keep it in.
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Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom
01-18-2012, 06:14 AM
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Here on planet Earth, a drum scanner or $10,000 Imacon would be seen as a ridiculous purchase for a newcomer to film.
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Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom
04-27-2012, 05:20 AM
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If you use expired or crappy film for the interesting colour effects, make sure the lab doesn't try and colour-correct the results!
BTW, what's that about using a DSLR for "serious" photography? You're in the film section now pal ...;)
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Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
08-27-2011, 05:32 AM
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Just to repeat that, sharpening should not be done only at the end. You should, ideally, capture sharpen your scans first, as any analogue-to-digital conversion introduces softness to the image. This can be done using tools in Photoshop or Lightroom, or a PS plug-in such as Photokit Sharpener, which nicely automates the whole process.
You should also sharpen at the end, but only a copy, as the final sharpen will depend on the intended use. You might want different levels of sharpening, say, for screen as opposed to print. So make a copy and sharpen that at 72ppi or whatever your final output resolution will be, until it looks good to your eyes. It may need very little, since your initial capture sharpen will have taken care of a good deal of the inherent softness in the image.
Here's another tip: if you're using PS's sharpening tools, do your sharpening on a duplicate layer set to Luminance blend mode. This will avoid any small colour shifts due to the sharpening. It also gives you, via the Opacity slider, a last chance to tweak the level of sharpening.
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Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
06-26-2011, 10:36 AM
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You can do a lot with Photoshop's native tools. Here I've used Smart Sharpen's deconvolution filter (Lens Blur with More Accurate selected), which is similar to the Topaz plug-in. A smidge of local contrast enhancement and masked USM helps things nicely.
This is quick and dirty - with more time I'd work harder at halo suppression. Working on layers with custom blends is the way to go.
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Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
09-19-2010, 09:06 AM
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It means you've stuffed up the portrait. You may think skin in its natural state looks wrong, but the idea of a plastic granny sends me screaming from the room.
PS Can I have my rep points now please?
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