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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 07-29-2018, 07:38 PM  
DFA 15-30 -- confidence
Posted By GodsPetMonkey
Replies: 17
Views: 2,968
Nice pictures - I find the 15-30 excels with indoor architecture, and it looks like that translates to caves really well.

Good work to avoid shooting landscapes @15mm and end up with a whole lot of sky, a whole lot of grass and a whole lot of nothing!
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 09-15-2017, 12:45 AM  
Long term planning for a trip to Iceland
Posted By GodsPetMonkey
Replies: 43
Views: 4,464
I spent 9 days in Iceland at the end of May and start of June this year - did the full loop around the island on Route 1, very nice place. My first piece of advice is don't just stay in the southwest. Sure, the Golden Circle has quite a bit in it, but if you head out you will get to see wonderful things that the stop-over-visitors don't and experience it without the crowds. Some of the best stuff I did involved being the only people there, and you wont get that in the southwest! Getting to Myvatn is totally worth it, not only is it stunning, but there is plenty to see on the way.

Anyway, I took my K-1 and probably too many lenses (but I did much more than just Iceland, that's my excuse). At a minimum, you will want something wide:


(Myvatn - FA* 24mm; ~16mm on APS-C)


(On the northern road to Akureyri - DFA 28-105mm @ 28mm; ~18mm on APS-C)

You'd be surprised how often you are taking landscape shots at normal and tele focal lengths - the air is so clear your visibility just goes on and on and on. So you definately want something in the middle - say 30-75mm on APS-C:


(Siglufjörður - DFA 28-105mm @ 105mm; ~70mm on APS-C)

And you will want something with reach, because... well... this:


(Puffin - DA* 60-250 @ 250 and then cropped some; probably 300-400mm on APS-C)

And finally, some good ND filters and a sturdy tripod. Lots and lots of waterfalls, like this:


(One of god-knows-how-many waterfalls just by the side of the road - though I didn't actually use an ND filter for this one, I used the Composite mode to stack, from memory, 25 shots taken at 1/15; I kept switching between ND filters and composite mode depending on what I had remembered to take from the car).

Ok, so that is a huge range. But I think you can cover it off with the DA 15 Limited (magic lens, small, really good stopped down), the DA 55-300 (very portable telephoto, decent range, and good enough in good light) and a new DA 16-85 (weather resistant, which is all important in Iceland, great IQ, covers off the wide to mild-tele range really well). With all that you just have to hope for good photo weather.
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 06-25-2017, 06:57 PM  
The difference in flash types
Posted By GodsPetMonkey
Replies: 20
Views: 2,349
+1 to this, the older 540 FGZ (and its smaller 360 brother) are brilliant flashes. They lack the WR of the Mk II models, and are larger, but they come with A mode (dropped on the Mk II) which as already described uses a sensor built into the flash. A mode means manual lenses are no problem, and you can have automation without the P-TTL preflash. I find A mode's results to be as good as P-TTL.

If you are patient you can snap up a bargain - I got mine for $140AU off eBay last year, pretty happy with that. It even came with a 3m extension cord (which is a rip off if bought on its own).
Forum: Sold Items 04-04-2017, 01:51 AM  
For Sale - Sold: FA* 24mm; Kooka Ext. Tube
Posted By GodsPetMonkey
Replies: 15
Views: 4,319
He's a frequent subject of mine ;). It was hard choosing just one photo of him to show!
Forum: Post Your Photos! 03-26-2017, 11:59 PM  
Travel Seoul, a K-1 and a bag full of primes
Posted By GodsPetMonkey
Replies: 3
Views: 712
I think some nod to modern comforts was necessary ;-)

(As I understand people in traditional/national attire get free entry to cultural sights, and judging by how many were doing it I think it is a popular thing to do!)
Forum: Post Your Photos! 03-26-2017, 03:38 AM  
Travel Seoul, a K-1 and a bag full of primes
Posted By GodsPetMonkey
Replies: 3
Views: 712
Earlier this month I enjoyed a few days getaway in Seoul. K-1 in tow, my DFA 28-105mm hadn't arrived, so instead I took my DA 16-85mm and a collection of fine prime glass. I decided to try to stick to the primes as much as possible (the DA zoom enjoyed a relaxing time in the hotel room :lol: ), and am I ever glad I did!

Fair warning, this might be bandwidth intensive... and it may help if you like palaces!


Deoksugung - FA* 24mm


Deoksugung - FA 31mm Limited


Gyeongbokung - FA 43mm Limited


Changing of the Guard, Gyeongbokung - FA 43mm Limited


Statues of Officials - FA 31mm Limited


Young ladies in traditional attire - FA 43mm Limited


Secreted Garden, Changdeokgung - FA 31mm Limited


Pro-President Park protesters - FA 77mm Limited


Sungnyemun Gate - FA 77mm Limited


City lights - DA 15mm Limited (1:1 crop)


Myeongdong shopping - FA 31mm Limited


End of a hard days work, Namdaemun Markets - FA 43mm Limited

(Plenty more in the Flickr gallery for those interested)

The K-1 performed admirably the whole trip. Coupled with good glass the detail it captures is just amazing. Hope you enjoyed the bit of Korea this wonderful piece of gear has captured.
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 03-17-2017, 03:02 AM  
Pentax, autofocus and the future
Posted By GodsPetMonkey
Replies: 287
Views: 30,484
This is something I recently discovered for myself. Like MrFox I had always gone with centerpoint AF, even for AF-C - my thinking being that I don't trust the auto-af-point select to know what I want, and I can paint my target with the centerpoint just fine thank you. This worked, but it took a lot of effort, and patience - hardly a pleasurable experience, and resulted in too many duds for every keeper. I just put that down to the usual Pentax AF isn't as good thing.

Out with my K-1 at a kids soccer event, I started the same, but it was way too hard trying to keep up with over-energised kids running about, so I decided to give multi point a go, deciding the let the computer make up for my lethargy. And to my surprise it was darn good. Ok, no one should throw their 1DX away quite yet, but my success rate jumped. I think the K-1s nifty LCD viewfinder helped, and it had the center point activated before I started the AF (which I have on shutter half-press for action) - so I painted my chosen target with with the center point, and away it went. It stayed on target unless it moved outside of the AF point coverage or something completely blocked it. And to my surprise it was nailing focus at about 80% of shots - a massive improvement over before.

Now light was really good, and I did play with settings to improve performance (changed it to focus priority always and upped the focus hold priority), so apart from dealing with small kids I had good conditions for it.

Thinking I never got performance like that out of my K-3II I took it out along the next day to see if I could recreate my success, and with basically the same settings off it went - just as good as the K-1 (the increased frame rate helping as I could fire off in quick succession). Ok, neither are considered dedicated sports cameras, but for the occaisional action outing they will certainly make a good go of it.

Now I really wish they explained this in the manual. My lesson here was sometimes you should just trust the camera and the magic software within, it is probably more capable than we give credit for, especially if you are the sort who thinks they are much better off in control. I'm not going to be shooting in green mode any time soon, but I am willing to accept there are times I need to move away from spot focus.
Forum: Pentax Camera and Field Accessories 03-12-2017, 02:30 AM  
"Recommended" variable ND vs "recommended" ND set
Posted By GodsPetMonkey
Replies: 11
Views: 1,777
My suggestion is to just buy an ND8 (or 10) and leave it at that. Variable NDs are more hassle than they are worth, introduce undesirable things and unless you are spending big, are shocking quality. CPLs also have a 1-2 stop dimming effect, so they can work (in a pinch), but the basic purpose of a ND is to allow you to slow your shutter speed - a stop or two can easily be done by just stopping down the lens and sticking to the base ISO, so that makes not getting an ND2 filter money (and bag space) saved for little lose of amenity. If the scene is so bright that playing with ISO and aperture won't cut it, an ND4 is unlikely to do much either, so that makes it a non-priority too. Something in the ND8-10 range will give you loads of light-stopping power, and really let you slow things down, well beyond what you might achieve by playing with the exposure triangle. It also happens to be my most used ND filter (after I made the mistake of getting a ND4 to begin with, finding it a struggle, my ND8 completely changed my view of ND filters!).

The big advantage of the 3-piece ND set is being able to combine them for a good range of light stopping power. If money and bag space are no object, go crazy, but I suggest, given your budget, start with the filter that will give you a solid result and learn how to use it to get the effects you desire. Then re-assess. That's why I recommend the ND8. And if you don't have one, a good quality CPL filter. My ND8 and CPL are permanent features in my camera bag - you never know when they may come in handy!, other accessories are on a use-case only inclusion basis.

Of course, if you are after a very particular effect or have a special use case that requires a light ND then you should get one... but that should be obvious ;)
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 03-20-2017, 03:41 AM  
New High Performance Ultra-wide Angle Lenses
Posted By GodsPetMonkey
Replies: 2
Views: 1,731
It's amazing how far we have come with ultra-wides. In the film days 15mm lenses were expensive and incredibly rare, now you can get a good performing 14mm Samyang for a few hundred dollars.

Even though I am not totally sold on how wide spread they have become. As you go wider you get bucket loads of distortion and perspective starts to get weird. Ordinary landscapes with these lenses show lots of sky and little detail, and I think they are often used for novelty/convenience when stitching together several shots taken at 20+mm would have delivered a better panoramic feel (a trivial task in digital development). There are some really good shots involving scenes where only this kind of ultra-wide will deliver, but like fisheyes I feel that the results are something that really work with the subject being shot, or just don't.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 03-12-2017, 01:53 AM  
It pays to regularly inspect your lenses...
Posted By GodsPetMonkey
Replies: 7
Views: 1,521
... or how my DA* 60-250mm nearly made me cry...

Ok, so my weekend activities included hauling my new K-1 to a soccer based fitness-camp activity for kids, 60-250 attached, everything went great (not sure why there was all the fuss about the K-1s autofocus... it kept up pretty damn well for what clearly isn't a sports camera). Afterwards, mad dash back to the car and the rest of the weekends activities.

That evening, I get home and start putting my camera gear away, a quick check over to see if anything needs a clean, and... OH CRAP! One of the front elements of my 60-250 has a chip on the edge (technically a conchoidal fracture, apparently). What the... how did that happen? Oh god, is my precious lens ruined? Ok. Bit of panic. Turns out the retaining ring which kept the front elements had worked itself a little loose, loose enough for the elements to slip around a little, and enough that when sitting in my camera bag being jiggled about as I walk, enough to cause that precious, fragile glass to chip. Fingers on the front element, yep, clear movement. Really not cool.

Ok, so from my telescope hobby, I know that chips are not something to get super worried about, edges chip all the time if you are building your own 'scopes or needing to do an objective transplant. Normally these get covered by retaining rings or baffles, but the age old trick is to apply some matte black paint, prevent light hitting the reflective surfaces of the chip. No problem, except it isn't the front element with the chip, it is the one behind it. Great, surgery time on a 60-250... this is a little different from half-stuffed manual focus primes, but I carefully remove the front element group, dig up some india-ink and gently apply with a brush. Then I clean everything up, put it all back together and... tada! Looks not bad really. I did carefully position the blacked out chip to be at the 'bottom' of the lens, so that it would sit on short-edged dimension of the frame.

Now the big test, I put it on my K-1, and take some test shots at 250mm. Everything looks fine, no problems. I try to get some flare without the lens hood on... and just like before I have to really work on it to bring it out, everything looks as it was, no new visual nasties. Final test, white wall at f32.... not at all visible. :cool:
Everything is back the way it should be, minus the hit to the lens' value and my ego.

Big take away lesson, make sure nothing wobbles that shouldn't wobble. I might have avoided this if I had checked to make sure there was no movement in those front elements. I guess it ain't that bad in the end, but that small black mark will forever stand as a reminder.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 08-07-2016, 09:28 PM  
Replacement for my 55-300?
Posted By GodsPetMonkey
Replies: 25
Views: 2,826
Depends what you want out of the AF - the 60-250 is slower than the 55-300 (though I prefer to call the 55-300 zippier, rather than faster - this may depend on the screw drive motor in your body), but it doesn't hunt if it misses like the 55-300 (short focus throw probably helps as much as the SDM). Things go a bit wonky with a TC though - you might get lucky, but otherwise the AF on the 60-250 will jump either side of in focus, I put this down to the SDM being designed for the specific reported FL, and a TC messes with this. Apparently this isn't as bad with the DA 1.4x TC, but at $400 you are paying a lot for a bit of extra reach.

The big downside of the 60-250 is focus breathing. If you are shooting at less than 15m your focal length is well short of advertised. For birds this means you will not be getting as much 'zoom' as you might like if you want to get close enough to fill the frame. In turn this means getting even closer to your subject.

And if your chasing size and convenience, well, the 55-300 is still probably the winner. The bulk and weight of the 60-250 is quite manageable, particularly if you have the space to adopt a good stance, but the 55-300 raked out to 300mm is the same size as the 60-250 packed up at 60mm. If you want to keep things light and small the 55-300 is brilliant, just a shame the new PLM version isn't fully supported by the K-5II as it would probably tick all your boxes. The 60-250 gives you a big step up in IQ, speed (constant f4) and silent AF, but compared to the 55-300 that comes at the expense of size, weight, focus breathing and dollars.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 09-03-2016, 01:55 PM  
DA 16-85 WR,show us what it can do.
Posted By GodsPetMonkey
Replies: 1,626
Views: 242,780
That's a stunner. Shows how versatile the lens is too, with it's surprisingly close minimum focus distance.

Anyway, been way too long since I shared with the rest of the class, so here are some shots from my trip to Uluru earlier this year:









(that last one was taken out the window of a moving car, and I didn't have time to set myself or the camera up properly - but who cares, Uluru rainbow!)
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 09-12-2016, 09:31 PM  
Lens focus calibration function suggestion/wish!
Posted By GodsPetMonkey
Replies: 9
Views: 1,386
Another plus for PDAF. My K-3II is surprisingly good at acquiring focus in the dark.

Still, I'd recommend calibrating your AF in good lighting, whether manually or using some software magic!
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 09-10-2016, 03:15 AM  
Why no screwdrive firmware update ?
Posted By GodsPetMonkey
Replies: 13
Views: 1,399
I'd be very surprised if there wasn't. For all sorts of reasons Pentax should have ensured there was plenty of ROM space to spare, and with memory (even specialised forms) being so cheap and firmware being relatively small, there ought to be enough space, even on early DSLRs. The amount of extra data stored would be pretty minuscule.

That said, the reasons why this probably hasn't happened have already been covered. And given that it is highly unlikely we will ever see a new Pentax lens design with both in-lens motor and screw drive AF, it will likely never rate as something to focus on for them.

Shame, it would be a great feature, and there are reasons to use the screw drive beyond SDM failures.
Forum: General Photography 08-10-2016, 02:31 AM  
Pentax autofocus compared to others?
Posted By GodsPetMonkey
Replies: 74
Views: 8,575
I think you raise some good points, and in my view a lot comes down to the goals and expectations of the hobbyists.

Let's be honest, it is a very normal thing to look up to those who are perceived be amongst the best at something and want to emulate their work. Often this means looking up to those who are considered 'professionals', and by that I mean those who make a real living out of it. This applies to sports stars, it applies the musicians, and yes, it applies to photographers.

Now by wanting to emulate, many amateurs rely on equipment (often to their detriment). To a professional sports photographer, frankly, the art is the least of their interests (though they may care in their personal, unpaid photography). If you rely on capturing 'the shot' from a fast paced event, be it sports, air shows or whatever, you will want every advantage you can get, because every advantage means more food on the table (as it were) - faster, more accurate AF and faster frame rates count, it may not guarantee the shot, it may not even double your chances, but that increase is critical when it is the difference between being paid and not. Now, being professionals, they have honed their skills through experience, lots and lots of experience, and the equipment works hand in hand with that experience to produce results. For amateurs, they see great photos (never mind the thousand that didn't make the cut), they see the expensive gear, and think that gear = results. Now for some (the gear heads) this may be what gives them the joy of their hobby - never underestimate the desire of a great number of people who just want to own 'the best'. For others, they put their poor results down to their gear, and with no frame of reference this makes sense to them - when they get the gear they know works (because they see the professionals use it) they are content, no longer is the gear the possible limitation - never mind that the professionals would still get stunning results with the 'lesser' gear (at the possible cost of their competitive edge).

Then we get back to goals. The above is more or less my experience with those who look up to most 'professional' photographers, those paid to document something. If you look at those who admire photographers who are more 'artsy', you see a different breed of hobbyist - I don't think any lomography shooter ever wasted time debating AF performance online (they would substitute with something equally inane, but more in line with their preference).

It seems that the former type of photographic hobbyist greatly outnumbers the later, and I think this is down to a few things - first, many more photographers make a living documenting than by being artistic (starving is almost a way of life for artists). Second, and I think this is more important, it is much easier to measure the technical stuff - sharpness and be measured, so can focus, and motion blur. Plenty of really good photos are technically crap (out of focus, crappy optics, loads of grain, bad composition, bad lighting, poorly exposed) but they are still good photos because they capture something, but that something is near impossible to measure. For an amateur, if you cannot measure, how can you track your progress? Much better to know you are advancing your skills because you photos are measurably better then by feeling you photos are better. Neither is really right or wrong, but it's face it, we have all seen the attractiveness of one path or the other.

So to bring it back to the actual topic of Pentax's AF, the hobbyist who desires technical perfection sees their idolised professionals all out at the game/air show with Canon and Nikon gear, and so in their mind it MUST be much better. Is it better? Yes, marginally. The AF is slightly faster, the tracking has a more refined algorithm, the lens motors are a little quicker. Does this matter? To the professional, yes - they don't want the phrase 'starving sports photographer' to enter common usage like 'starving artist' has, so every little advantage counts, and frankly, they have the skills to back it up, so good on them. For the hobbyist? No, probably not. There may be some who push against the limits of some gear in some cases, but the majority would not find a difference between their performance with Pentax and Canon/Nikon outside of their own minds.

Finally, should we care? Probably not. If someone wants to spend upwards of $10,000 on a top end body and trinity of f2.8 zooms for an occasional Facebook picture (but otherwise leaves the gear in the cupboard as it is frustrating) so be it. Be happy in your own mind. And I say that despite being involved on another forum where if you don't have a FF body with the holy trinity you are a nothing is the general attitude of the self appointed experts (so yes, they annoy me to). I just wish they would be as happy with their choices as I am with mine. That they, or anyone, needs to constantly talk down the needs, goals and choices of someone else says all you need to know about them.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 07-19-2016, 05:03 AM  
60-250mm/f4 to cover all needs between 100-250mm?? Opinions/advice welcome
Posted By GodsPetMonkey
Replies: 34
Views: 5,668
At MFD I'd say the 250mm is actually around 135mm, the focus breathing on this lens is really bad and probably its biggest draw back. If you are getting up close and personal, you are better of using the DFA 100mm - at least then you can get really up close!

It doesn't become 250mm until somewhere between 15m and infinity. IMHO it isn't too bad beyond 10m, but it does limit its use as a wildlife lens.

This is the price you pay for that AW design and great optical performance.



You are welcome!

I am the sort of person who keeps on the move, lots of waking and hiking with my gear. This lens is not the one you keep on the body when hiking. It is a travel lens if you don't move much or are travelling in a car, but on foot the size and weight will get in the way. On the other hand, if you plan on keeping it in your bag and only using it when the situation demands you will find it much more suitable.

My main camera bags are two Crumplers. A four million dollar home and a seven million dollar home. If I am going light with the 4MDH the 60-250mm would basically occupy the bag with the TC and other sundry bits, with the camera + 16-85mm around my neck. The 7MDH is a much bigger bag, but the lens and TC will still take up about a third. The camera plus several (3 or 4) smaller lenses will fit in the space that remains. By taking the 55-300mm I can essentially fit another lens in either bag, and even with the extra lens the weight is unlikely to exceed carrying the 60-250mm. Depending on what I am up to this can make a significant difference. Other times it is the faster focal ratio and the much better IQ of the 60-250mm that I am after. It really is not easy giving up that IQ!

Personally, I'd also consider how much use you are likely to get. The 60-250mm is not cheap, and plonking down that much cash, even second hand, for a lens you very rarely use seems a waste. The 55-300mm isn't likely to perform as well as you would want on the K-1, but there are legacy FF options in this range that present even better value for money. That said, given your existing experience with the 200mm and 300mm primes, I'd say you appreciate the extra IQ you get out of the more expensive options, so I think the 60-250mm is going to be the best compromise lens you will come across.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 07-18-2016, 09:29 PM  
60-250mm/f4 to cover all needs between 100-250mm?? Opinions/advice welcome
Posted By GodsPetMonkey
Replies: 34
Views: 5,668
Plenty of praise around here for the DA* 60-250, and justifiably so, it is an impressive optical performer!

But rather then rehash all that, let me give you the downsides of the lens (based on my experience) - an investment of this sort should be done with both eyes open!

As already mentioned, it is a part-time 250mm lens. From when focusing from about 15m/50ft or closer you will quickly loose that. So it suffers from seriously bad focus breathing, at MFD it is lucky to be a 60-135mm, and I don't think it hits 200mm until a bit after 10m. Not a problem for landscape, but it is for flora and fauna shots.

It isn't small and light. Yes, there are bigger, heavier telephotos out there, but they normally bring either longer focal lengths or shorter focal ratios. I find it too big and heavy for a walk about. The 55-300mm (which I also have) is a brilliant size and makes the 60-250mm feel like a load of dead weight hung around your neck in comparison. Fully extended, it starts to push into hard to handhold territory - saving grace is the brilliantly designed tripod mount.

On the other hand, it is a good size for fitting in a camera bag. But this comes at a price, I could fit a small prime plus the 55-300mm in the same space, and it has a much wider diameter than any of my other lenses, potentially restricting space for other lenses. All depends on how much kit you want to carry, but I think it is better suited to a 2 zoom setup.

The SDM is slow. The 55-300mm likes to hunt, but at least it is zippy. The 60-250mm is one lens I wish I could convert to screwdrive, but no one has worked out how yet. Very sad. The SDM makes me appreciate the DC AF on my 16-85mm all the more!

The AF is even worse with the Tamron Pz-AF 1.4x TC. I don't know if the HD 1.4x TC is any better, but if you want a full frame TC with AF, you will need bucket loads of light. AF on the 55-300mm plays better with the TC, and that both frustrates and surprises me given the faster focal ratio on the 60-250mm.

It is weaker at 250mm. It is, after all, a zoom, and zooms have a strong point and a weak point, in this case, short focal lengths are stronger then longer ones. I wish it was the other way around (who buys the 60-250mm to shoot below 100mm?), but that's the way it is. On the other hand, you step it down to f5.6 and any weakness melts away (which is exactly what the MTF program line does at 250mm), and at 250mm it is stronger than the 55-300mm anywhere. So really, in IQ it's only competition is itself.

All that said, mine is not for sale. It is a great lens, if the downsides don't concern you, then it is an obvious winner. If they do the 55-300mm gives you more reach for less money and less bulk, but it comes with its own limitations.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 07-09-2016, 10:55 PM  
Deep Space- Cheapo Lens
Posted By GodsPetMonkey
Replies: 6
Views: 2,134
I'd get a HEQ5 or NEQ6 before the Celestron for EQMOD, which is an amazing bit of software and I find it superior to the Nexstar system (though I admit I haven't had loads of experience with the AVX).

But that is way beyond what the OP is asking about or where they are at. Sinking a few grand on an imaging setup isn't for the feint of heart. A cheap lens to get a taste is a great way to start, astrotracer makes that easy. As an added bonus it doesn't take the 90 minutes or so to setup like a full astroimaging rig, doesn't weigh anything and can fit in a camera bag - good refractor scopes are big, they have to be given the focal length and incredible optics needed to give such well corrected images... and forget about a reflector, small ain't happening.

Astrotracer allows for quick and easy astro shots, within reason. As long as the OP manages their expectations (this isn't the Hubble folks) it might be the gateway they were looking for. From there they can move to a tracking tripod head (iOpteron or Star Adventurer, which I think Pete_XL had) or a full EQ mount.

Astrotracer will also teach them all about the frustration that come with astrophotography. That's something that never goes away, no matter the money involved tracking errors, wind and crappy seeing will always be there to interfere.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 06-17-2016, 04:42 PM  
Best lens for astrophotography
Posted By GodsPetMonkey
Replies: 27
Views: 14,013
Spot on.

When it comes to astrophotography many think 'wide', but wide produces just one type of astro shot, you really need a variety of lenses to cover your bases.

Last time I went out to a reasonably dark site with my telescope I decided to do some some testing of lenses for astro handling and field of view while I focused on visual observing:

Milky Way with the SMC DA 15mm Limited:


Crux and Coalsack Nebula with the SMC FA 43mm Limited:


Crux and Coalsack Nebula with the SMC DFA 100mm:


These were taken at another time, but show that a good zoom will do the job (both taken with the HD DA 16-85mm):



Forum: Pentax News and Rumors 06-12-2016, 04:43 PM  
Pentax K-70 with "accelerator unit"
Posted By GodsPetMonkey
Replies: 89
Views: 18,140
Gotta install water cooling in my camera!
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 06-13-2016, 10:01 PM  
300mm zoom decision assistance, please
Posted By GodsPetMonkey
Replies: 15
Views: 2,025
To be honest none of those options look particularly stellar. Unless there is something wrong with it I'd suggest toughing it out with the F 70-210 until you have saved up for the HD 55-300. The F 70-210 is going to be better than any of the AF lens options you have listed, and the 55-300 is one of the best consumer tele zooms out there. The Adaptall may be an exception - that is a series that had a good number of solid optical performers, but you need to work out if you can live with a manual focus, push-pull zoom that needs stop down (green button) metering.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 06-11-2016, 04:40 AM  
New 55-300 Re lens Compatibility with the K-3 V.S. K-3II
Posted By GodsPetMonkey
Replies: 34
Views: 4,040
The pins have all stayed in the same place, but if you start disabling them the camera responds in odd ways.

Disable the PZ pins on my DA 16-85 and the thing chucks a aperture wobbly with the camera reporting that it keeps changing between f4 and f5.6 with no way to override it. Also, while the lens properly identifies itself, it constantly reports as being at 85mm, no matter what. I presume the KAF3 lens needs the extra power from the PZ pins at all times for normal operation.

But disable the PZ pins on my DA 60-250 and everything is fine. Something must have changed between KAF2 and KAF3.

It gets odder when you start disabling the KA pins. Disable any of them on a 'modern' lens (I tried a FA 50 f1.4, FA 77, DFA 100, and the above DA lenses) and the lens no longer identifies itself, even if the 'data' pin is functional. In fact, the EXIF data has it as a K or M lens, the aperture on the top LCD is blanked, but the aperture on the rear LCD displays in line with what it should be based on the pins not disabled - explain that one Ricoh!

If you have disabled pins and put a KA tele converter between the lens and the body, suddenly everything works as you would expect for an A series lens. You can disable pins to 'fake' aperture readings with no problems.

From this I conclude that the K mount's electronic features have actually evolved quite a bit, even if the physical layout has not. What we consider to be the aperture pins may actually have other uses on modern lenses, and only revert to the A standard if the lens data pin is shorted out (as on an A series TC or body). I don't think it is much of a strech to think that the camera is already identifying itself to the lens when a proper connection is detected (indeed this makes a lot of sense for KAF2 and KAF3 lenses, given the non-screw drive AF mechanism).

So, with KAF4, there could well be changes to the way the mount operates and communicates that rely on hardware changes that is not visible on the mount - restricting it to certain bodies that has this hardware (presumably as a result of ongoing R&D by the lens team while the body was being designed). In the case of the KAF4 lens, it'll do its best to revert to a compatibility 'standard' if it doesn't detect a compatible body - from KA mount to KAF3 mount (ie. It'll report aperture, even though it can be changed, and it'll auto focus on K10D and later).
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 06-05-2016, 08:41 PM  
DFA 100 Macro has a sticky aperture lever, who to send it too?
Posted By GodsPetMonkey
Replies: 12
Views: 1,775
Assuming you have the WR model (don't know if this is a problem with the previous version) it is a very easy fix. In fact, I just did it myself this weekend gone!

Basically the cause is some of the grease from the screw drive gears escaped and ended up under the aperture ring to which the lever is attached. Over time this has been moved around by the aperture ring and is now slowing down its free movement.

Fix is simple, unscrew the mount plate. Very carefully remove the mount plate - there are some tiny springs, most of which are attached attached to the electrical pins, but one is just freely there! Watch out, they will want to escape.

With the mount plate off you will see a matt blackish ring - that's the aperture ring. Carefully lift it and gently unhook the return spring on the underside. You should be able to see the problem now, a shiny greasy patch over near the screw drive, and the same on the underside of the aperture ring. Clean it up, I just used some isopropyl alcohol. Then just reassemble - reinsert the aperture ring, make sure you reattach the return spring before it is nestled, put the loose spring from the contacts in the one 'hole' that doesn't have a matching electrical pin in the mount, then affix the mount and screw it back on.

Your aperture lever should now be nice and snappy. Just like new! It took me about 15 minutes to do this, and a good chunk of that was spent hunting that damn loose spring!

If you like I can open my lens up again and take some pictures for you when I get home from work today.
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 05-31-2016, 03:53 AM  
What would I loose if I switched from Pentax DSLR (K10D) to mirrorless?
Posted By GodsPetMonkey
Replies: 133
Views: 11,984
One thing that always gets me with some mirrorless fans is how they say they love the light weight and small size, but then strap on a big and heavy fast zoom. To me I don't think you can go wrong with a mirrorless or a DSLR, quality is good across the manufacturers, but the critical thing is choosing your system based on your needs, not because someone said something or you read something about why x is better then y.

So if you like fast zooms (f2.8) or long primes (>100mm), the size and weight advantages of mirrorless are basically eliminated, doubly so if you use adapted glass. If you are happy with variable aperture zooms or system specific small primes, size and weight become a significant factor. Other things to consider are the classic EVF vs OVF, battery life (I can get 1,000 shots on a single charge with the LCD off on my K-3II), overall feature set (which will depend on manufacturer), lens/accessory range and prices and so on.

Only you can know what of these is important to you, so get out there and shop around. Make sure you try to get out there and physically handle your options - it makes a difference, and you would be surprised how unoticable a few 100 grams extra is with good ergonomics and design. Don't rely on Internet opinion for your final purchase ;)
Forum: Pentax News and Rumors 06-01-2016, 03:13 AM  
Ricoh files a patent for a Pentax 35-80mm f/4 full frame lens
Posted By GodsPetMonkey
Replies: 147
Views: 15,071
But only one of those was from the 90's, the FA 35-80. That was a nicely sized unit though.

As zoom quality improved consumers voted with their wallets and the end result was more width. The rest of the FA wide angle zooms show Pentax was in tune with that shift at the time. A 24-80 (or better yet, a new constant aperture 24-90!) makes more commercial sense these days, especially with a camera orientated to field use. WR isn't much good if you need to swap lenses constantly to move between wide angle and normal. Given f4 zooms would be targeting users who value a balance between size, weight, IQ and cost a 2 lens setup covering wide to normal and then normal to tele makes sense. A third lens to cover wide angle focal lengths seems like extra cost and weight for the sake of it.

If the lens is tiny and has great IQ then Ricoh will have something to market, but without some stellar qualities 35-80mm is going to feel like it should have been left in the manual focus era (and in that case I'd much rather an A 35-105mm f3.5).
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