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Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
07-11-2022, 07:06 AM
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I probably will do just that, as I coudln't get Silkypix working with the DNGs from K50. Some threads suggest that the support of k50 came with one of the later version and is not supported by one that I have (on with 08 at the end). Probably there was an upgrade accessible back then.
I've also written to the software developers and they sent me to Ricoch as ones responsible for that version and support of the camera. Ricoch never replied (I've written to them about two weeks ago).
One thing with DCU I don't like is quite rough scale on sliders - the "jumps" are quite large, no option to fine tune them better. Some options aren't explained - there's a slider or button and you really can't tell what it does. It's still better than nothing thoug and it really is based on some kind of silkypix soft so there are things really familiar to me.
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Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
07-04-2022, 01:57 AM
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I've installed DCU 5 as per this guide , but Silkypix still claims DNG is not supported from this camera :/
Edit: DCU opens DNG just fine
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Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
07-04-2022, 01:22 AM
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A few years back I bought K50 which came with SilkyPix Developer Studio 3.0 LE on a disc. Since then I was using it without issues (even if its quuuuite old). I've moved recently to a new pc and installed the software from said disc but it no longer opens the DNG files from that K50. I might updated the firmware somewhere in the past, but I'm not sure.
Can't recall if there was a plugin from that soft to open DNG from K50. I tried to search for such thing on Ricoh page, but there's only firmware to download and Silkypix for Pentax which presents the same issue (although K50 wasn't listed there). Tried to find anything here but failed.
Does anyone know what's the issue? I would rather not move to Lightroom, I'm an amateur that shoots photos once a few months. I've developed a nice pipeline for developing DNG in Silkypix after all those years, I would rather stick to it.
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Forum: Photographic Technique
07-15-2020, 11:40 PM
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I'm guessing that's the answer I was looking for. Thank you, but also thank you all for your time and answers!
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Forum: Photographic Technique
07-15-2020, 02:34 PM
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Sorry for my English. As I tried to say, I was holding it tight to the tubes in my own hand just for the test purposes, as I'm missing the proper 49mm reverse ring.
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Forum: Photographic Technique
07-15-2020, 02:09 PM
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Hello, long time no see.
I recently thought about improving my skills in macrophotography and wanted to try some techniques 'pros' use. I've stumbled upon Thomas Shahan videos on Youtube and since he uses quite motivating and cheap setup, I thought I will try to find the lens.
Today I received old and manual SMC Pentax 50mm 1.7 which was shown on the video along with old Foca extension tubes 36+20+12mm (I'm amazed on the condition of both). It appeared I'm missing the right reverse ring (guess the lense is 49mm), but I tried to just keep the lense at the end of the extension tubes just shot a few frames for test.
I've discovered... whether the lens is mounted reversed or not, there seems to be no real difference in the maginification ratio. And so I started wondering - what are the advantages of an reversed lense on an extension tube? Did I stumble upon a false positive due to the length of the extension tubes perhaps?
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
03-15-2019, 10:54 AM
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Yes, the image was cropped to 2700x2700px (not resized). I had to edit the original post because images I attached were visibly compressed, hence I uploaded them to Flickr and linked here.
Thank you all for the interest and suggestions, especially Dan for his comparisons and settings :-) I will attempt to do the same in my Silkypix Developer Studio 3 LE and compare the results.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
03-14-2019, 01:59 PM
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Hi, all! Not sure if I should post this thread in beginners or in Post Processing subforum... so let's start here.
When I use SilkyPix Studio (added to my K50 by default), sharpen RAWs and save them as JPEGs I notice how awful sharpness of the image is reduced. Of course, it's compression, but... no! The output shouldn't be so blurry in resolution such as 2700x2700px. I always set JPG quality to 100and the sharpened image is worse than JPEG made by camera in RAW+ program.
What the hell is going on with SilkyPix? Or is it only me? :/ Is there any other free or cheap soft I could use for postprocessing my DNG RAWs?
Here are comparisions:
Default JPEG made by camera in RAW+ program vs. "Sharpened" JPEG made from RAw via SilkyPix
RAW in SilkyPix vs JPEG output from it |
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
04-22-2018, 04:22 AM
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I suppose @photogem probably could be less aggressive, at least I take it that way :/ But thanks for the information anyway.
What I mean by "upside down effect" is what was not mentioned anywhere (also regarding "appreture block" issue). My camera takes dark pictures on low appreture (like 4.5f) and takes bright pictures in the same time on higher papretures (like 40f) and then -after several shots - it turns back to normal eventually. It looks more like a software issue to me, but since I didn't found similar issues in the internet I started the thread here.
Peace and love.
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
02-04-2018, 12:43 PM
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As for now, I send the e-mail to polish authorised service. Twice. No response from them since I wrote first post in this thread :3
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
01-30-2018, 02:50 PM
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No. No.. that cannot be.. :x
And to be more serious, mentioned article does not cover situations where the apreture works "upside-down". Maybe, the issues have similar output, but are two different things. If anyone other have some thoughts/had the same issue, I'm here to listen...
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
01-30-2018, 01:55 PM
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Hi, half-crying, half-devastated.. but hello once again after a 1 or 2 days.
I have K-50 from 2,5 year, so I'm out of warranty (which last in Eu for 2 years - yay!). I often use old manual Tokina for macro shots (with pentax mount) and switch to KIT 55-18 1.35/5.6.
Lets start with the beginning:
A week or so ago I was doing a session of my painted figurines. I shot first with rather high settings, something like 1/90, f8 iso 100 or so in a very dim light. It was not too bright, so I changed the settings to lower ones. It shocked me a bit that the shots were almost dark, I tried a few times more with the same results, checked my hand-made diffusor, and after a few another tries and adjustings of the difusor the shots started to be lighten correctly. I thought it was diffusor's fault.
Today I treid to do some shots of a citation in a book (I know, rather unusuall use for the camera). I started once again with rather high settings in almost completely dark room - the text was there but rather dim (I deleted the shot, and I don't
remember the details). I then tried to go lower - 1/30, f5.6, ISO 800 - the shot was... darker than one before. I recalled the situation from before a week described above here... So I tried to go even lower, with ISO ~52.000, lowest apreture and ~1/10. Shot was even darker. I adjusted diffusor again hoping it is something with it once again, but this time trying to adjust it didn't help.
So I then tried to go up with the settings. 1/50, f14 and iso 800 - shot was brighter, 1/50 ISO 800 f32 - was what it should be - white background with nice dark letters on it. What the hell?
So did some tests without any diffusor - only built-in lamp; I pointed the camera on a dim lamp:
1/180, ISO 800, f5 - dark, only bulb was a brighter dot
1/180, ISO 800, f32 - bright!
So I did a test without a lamp:
1/10, ISO 800, f5.6 - dark with only a bulb visible
1/10, ISO 800, f40 - completely THE SAME result as above
I was terrified by then. I thought that either software or aprreture in my lens is faulty.
I'm not sure which was next, 1 or 3:
1) I probably unmounted the lens, checked the .."lever" of the apreture if it can be levered up manually and down automatically- and it looked OK
2) I then did a test once again and get the same bad results
3) checked how the world looks like when I lever the mirror (Raw/fx button in my case) and still looking on a lamp went up from f5.6 to f40 - everything looked completely the same (dark)
4) checked the same thing going down from f40 to f5.6... IT STARTED WORKING! Both ways.
I've checked the manual but they do not list any similar problem...
I've searched google, and found a mention about apreture block but nothing about apreture settings working "upsidedown".
I'm out of ideas what the hell happens to my camera. Any thoughts? Any help? :<
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
01-30-2018, 12:45 PM
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BigMackCam was kind to check the photos and on his display the photos looked right. I assume, that there is something with the Dell (might the last "creator's" upgrade for windows the cause? I will search to answer that).
Thanks for help!
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
01-28-2018, 03:09 PM
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Oh! It would be great, love you already :D
I will send the pm with a link.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
01-28-2018, 02:49 PM
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Other than the way of saving the RAWs I didn't change nothing in my samera settings.
I checked WB balance by pointing the camera on a most white space (because there was no grey around), it was looking really good (even more, it looked better than usuall). By the way, it's sad that in this mode Pentax does not display the values other than A/B/G/M (which can't be translated easily to Silkypix).
Huh.. I remember that Windows got a huge update not long ago.. maybe it changed something. If it is nothing with the camera (and you seem to be quite sure about that - I would rather belive you than my laptop :) ) I will have to check this one thing. Eh.. it looks like I will have to buy the colorimeter after all.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
01-28-2018, 02:22 PM
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Thank you Stevebrot, good to know that :)
Yes. I'm used to slight color/contrast changes when I download JPGS from camera. The RAW (displayed as processed) and saved JPG from RAW+ and JPG from saving the RAW manually with settings look completely the same. When I download all three of them on laptop, they still look the same and are all terrible (in Silkypix and standard viewers). This time the difference is just huge. I'm terrified because those shots vere not the greates in my life but one of the best for this species of ants :<
This time I changed my method of doing pics. Usually I do RAW+ and if I see a a really good photo I click on WB settings (arrow down), where the photo is displayed and save it from there with choosen WB setting (+/- button as default)*. I know, it is very inconvenient and is limited to the very core (if you turn off the camera or do another shot you can't choose the WB setting and save the image). But if you choose a batch of RAWs and save them to JPG with the WB setting chosen.. shouldn't it do completelty the same as I do for every single image I like?
What's more - the whole thing with saving single image via WB settings is because even the RAW is displayed as postprocessed.. it doesn't take the WB from setting for the JPG saved through RAW+ (it doesn't differ from RAW). Or maybe I just understand it incorrectly - the RAW is displayed as RAW with some slight changes for the sake of readibility?[COLOR="Silver"]
*I like to have all of the possibilities of further edition open
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
01-28-2018, 01:37 PM
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Sorry for splitting, I can't edit my posts yet.
Don't get me wrong. What I do is:
1. I take measures of white balance and store as one of the settings
2. I do a couple of shots and save them as RAW+ (displayed as posprocessed )
3. Then I select imamges still on camera, choose to save them as JPGS, and then select the settings which camera have to use (including wbalance setting from step 1)
4. The output JPG does not differ from postprocessed RAW on camera and is beautiful, but when I download it my laptop it looks terrible, far from the JPG displayed on camera.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
01-28-2018, 01:31 PM
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I use the software attached to the camera (Silkypix). But the same result I see in regular viewers (like the default one in Windows 10 , and the old one used in old Windows).
As I said above, even if I save the RAW as JPG with custom settings (like mentioned manual balance) the output is completely the same - ideal photo on camera, wors xyz on laptop. They simply do not differ from RAWs.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
01-28-2018, 01:10 PM
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Hi!
So, I'm an amateur who uses K50 and take photos of my insects (ants in particular). Today I did another session. I ussed RAW+ option to store the shots on card. I know, RAW are displayed with conversion to JPEG on my camera (or so I was told once). But even if I choose the camera to save all RAWs with particular settings (like manual white balance) to JPGs the difference between camera and those JPGs displayed on the camera is huuuuuuuuuuuge. Not just a slight change in color and/or contrast. I know, my DELL laptop isn;t the best display for photographs and its color change depending on graphics card used in the moment, but the difference (at least in contrast) is like the best photo ever on my camera and the worst ever on laptop.
Which one lies to me? Or maybe they borh lie to me..?
For example this one - would you say it has the best exposure/contrast/brightness/colours ever? I doubt. But my camera shows it as an ideal image...
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Forum: Pentax Forums Giveaways
01-26-2016, 08:28 AM
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When you are going to a travel somwhere where pickpoketes and thieves are something common, make your camera to look like used or partially broken - for example use bright tapes.
Don't know if I'm able to participate in the giveaway as a new member and foreigner, but it was worth a try :P
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