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Forum: Pentax Medium Format
10-05-2021, 06:50 AM
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It is really doubtful that SDK's are of any use to a raw development program, manufacturers would be loathe to document their proprietary raw format.. In short and AFAIK SDK's do not allow access to the raw data.
This based on a documented quote from Thomas Knoll Adobe after discussing with Nikon:
 Quote: TK: Can you please document NEF format?
Nikon: No, but you can use our SDK.
TK: But the Nikon SDK does not provide what Camera Raw needs to operate, and using it would limit Camera Raw's speed, UI features, and quality of results (e.g. Camera Raw's special highlight recovery algorithms). Adobe does not use camera manufacturers SDK due to the limitations imposed therefore it seems likely that other quality raw software such as C1 would not go down this route either
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Forum: Pentax Medium Format
09-30-2021, 03:45 PM
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it is my understanding that in the past Capture One would not offer support for direct competitors to Phase One products.
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Forum: Pentax Medium Format
09-30-2021, 07:03 AM
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I agree. Have only played with it for a short while for Fuji raw files (the free Fuji version) and cannot so far see any compelling reason to change from LR, PS and ACR.
Still there are those that insist it is better in some ways including the anti Adobe lobby ;)
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Forum: Pentax Medium Format
09-30-2021, 06:37 AM
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Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
06-16-2021, 11:13 AM
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? Its a 35mm film scanner
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Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
06-16-2021, 11:08 AM
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As I have never used this model it is difficult to make a reasoned comment.
However other testing suggest a max optical resolution of 3250 dpi, this is far higher than you can expect from even a top range flatbed scanner such as the Epson 700/800 and just a little below the commended but now long gone Nikon film scanners. As long as it does what it says on the tin I think that you have made a decent choice
Source Plustek OpticFilm 8200i Filmscanner review: picture quality, scan speed, resolution, device test of the dia scanner in detail
Vuescan is excellent software and may prove a better choice than the Silverfast, but test both to confirm.
I am sure you will enjoy your choice and get excellent results
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Forum: Pentax Medium Format
06-16-2021, 02:36 AM
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Yes, particularly as it goes against every review I have seen where it gets high praise. Our own itshimitis seems to like his!
Still every manufacturer can produce a ‘Friday dog’ and perhaps the photographers that produced those images should be informed so they can ask Fuji to check their lens samples.
Unless comprehensive testing done side by side under exactly the same conditions P 28-48 and F 32-64 then the best that can be hoped for is a highly subjective opinion
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Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom
06-06-2021, 01:13 PM
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E4 had some nasty chemistry it was discontinued around 1975 (?). No lab I am aware of would attempt to process E4 in E6 chemistry - risk of upsetting the chemical balance.
40 year old exposed film equals latent image regression, effects of storage, breakdown of dyes and colour couplers and a myriad of other things. So yes unless you are sure of hero images at the time of acquisition then most likely a costly excercise for nothing.
If you must try one of the labs that does a single shot process B&W or try yourself to see if you have any image data left.
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Forum: General Talk
05-31-2021, 08:06 AM
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It sounds to me like you really need to replace your computer technician with a genuine one !
You have already proved it works under Win 7 and 10!
Just to confirm you have a Acer M3910 running Windows 10 and a HP2200 PCL5 printer with the correct 64 bit printer drivers?
You also have Adaptec 2 port USB 2.0 PCI adapter card?
The question is why do you have the Adaptec card - it is not needed as you already have several USB ports onboard your PC.
I would suggest that you remove Adaptec and drivers reboot PC and check your existing USB ports are working and have any necessary drivers or software installed - they may be found if needed on mnfctr Disk or website.
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Forum: General Talk
05-25-2021, 03:31 AM
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It is usual to suspect drivers as first area with printer problems and you seem to have covered a lot of ground trying to solve the issue without any luck so far. However it seems that you may have missed checking other areas?
The message of a "port configuration problem" is a clue that suggests that this may not be driver related but may be the printer is actually stuck in a loop with Windows maybe not knowing that it is turned on, even though it can be seen. There are a couple of things you may want to try before paying for a technician to service including disabling any third party firewall (disconnect from the net first), manually configure the port, or for a first try and the one I suspect do a hard reset of printer
1. Hard reset of printer. This should work fine for most HP's but you may want to confirm if yours requires a different procedure
- With the printer turned on for a while without any activity physically disconnect the power cable from the rear of the printer
- Now unlug the power cord from the wall socket
- Wait for a couple of minutes
- Reconnect the power cable to the wall and the printer
- Turn printer on again and wait until it has ceased activity and is in idle mode
- See if problem cured
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Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
05-10-2021, 05:23 AM
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That is correct and was covered in post #18
Lightroom Classic
You continue to have access to all your photos on your local hard drive through Lightroom for the desktop. You can continue to import and organize photos and output your edited photos through Export, Publish, Print, Web, or Slideshow. Access to the Develop & Map modules and Lightroom for mobile is not available after your membership ends.If you are using the Cloud storage - you will have one year from cancellation or lapse of subscription
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Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
05-10-2021, 02:39 AM
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Well, the Internet should be awash with users complaining about access denial if Adobe has changed their terms and conditions without prior notice - but that does not seem to be the case AFAIK.
There are many things that can break certain applications including malware, adding new programs, OS upgrades (Mac OS seems particularly susceptible), etc.
While you are waiting for an Adobe response you may wish to seek response from Specialists forums e.g.
Lightroom Classic on Adobe Support Community Just sign in using your Adobe ID
Lightroom Queen Forums |
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Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
05-09-2021, 11:45 AM
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From Adobe
Quote: Lightroom Classic
You continue to have access to all your photos on your local hard drive through Lightroom for the desktop. You can continue to import and organize photos and output your edited photos through Export, Publish, Print, Web, or Slideshow. Access to the Develop & Map modules and Lightroom for mobile is not available after your membership ends. I would suggest that, if as you are saying they are 'holding your images to ransom' that you contact them for clarification about why the above does not apply in your case.
I strongly suspect that there is something else at play in your current situation which may well be outside of Adobes control.
Unless of course you made the mistake of storing your edits on the Adobe Cloud only (dont know it this actually possible). From date of cancellation or lapsing of LR you are given one year to download your files
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Forum: General Photography
05-04-2021, 04:40 PM
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Yes definitely Red Red Wine should work just fine 😁
You Tube
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src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/-T2MIGuA8p4?controls=1" allowfullscreen>
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Forum: Pentax Camera and Field Accessories
05-04-2021, 02:46 AM
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Not sure that you will get all your must haves for under $200 !
However you may want to look at something like the Zomei 669c. I bought this when looking for a traveller comparing to one of the Gitzo travellers it was very close spec. wise including 8 layer carbon fibre but very affordable at around $100. You would need to look at a P&T head perhaps and no levelling base.
Z669C Portable Travel Pro Carbon Fiber Tripod Monopod+Ball Head for DSLR Camera | eBay
You Tube
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src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/BKt4W4AbqSQ?controls=1" allowfullscreen>
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Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
04-26-2021, 06:05 AM
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I am sure it would look great as at 8’ viewing distance you would only require around 36 ppi to give an impression of a well resolved image.
In a previous life, in the old days of analogue capture I regularly produced exhibition prints for other pro photographers up to about 10’ as a single maximum length, and occasionally going up to a max of 30’ x ** (max paper roll size 52” wide if memory serves and 30’ in 3 x 10’ lengths) from MF film. Separate pieces would be overlapped trimmed and pasted on site, rather like wallpaper hanging. Viewed at a ‘correct’ distance the images would appear sharp and grain free, up close of course another story!
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Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
04-24-2021, 03:20 AM
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Thanks, I appreciate that you are approaching this from your perspective relating to your own visual acuity.
Your conclusion that a viewing distance of 12" for 286 ppi may not be correct for other viewing distances is sound. The answer usually given to the often quoted 'how many pixels needed for a print?' is based on taking the diagonal of the print and multiplying by 1.5 - 2x to get to the viewing distance then applying the formula for the visual acuity of someone with 20/20 vision.
So for your 40" x 60" print you would be looking at a requirement of a native file size of around 32 ppi minimum to give the impression of continuos tone and a reasonably well resolved image at a viewing distance of 108" (9'). The closer a viewer gets the more MP required, so at a viewing distance of 36" we would be looking at a minumum of 95 ppi and at 12" we are back to 286 ppi. Based on someone with 20/20 visual acuity
---------- Post added 04-24-21 at 03:32 AM ----------
Interesting take, as according to the OP title Megapixels vs Maximum Printing size it could be taken that we are talking about how many pixels (megapixels if you wish) do we need to print at a certain size or how do megapixels translate to print size.
So in reality it is a technical question and prints showing 'distracting softness' are generally the result of either going to far with not enough pixels for the required print size and viewing distance or the image data is intentionally soft.
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Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
04-23-2021, 11:15 AM
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It is a guideline based on the maths of visual acuity based on someone with 20/20 vision. Obviously if your vision is better or worse than 20/20 the recommendation will change
The idea of PPI and print size needs to be understood. The required PPI is the figure that at a given viewing distance an image comprised of dots will be perceived as a continuous tone . In other words a viewer will not see the spaces between the dots.
Contrary to what you seem to have found is the fact that a smaller print will, if viewed at a reasonable distance require more pixels to resolve detail that may be contained in your image data than an enlarged version may require viewed at a similar ‘reasonable’ distance - taking into account that even if detail is present it may not be able to be seen with the unaided eye due to distance from print.
I prefer to think of what minimum pixel requirements for a certain viewing distance than the commonly quoted 1.5 - 2x print diagonal. So I use the 3438/estimated closest viewing distance for a print to be viewed in a particular setting.
So, as an example an 10x8 image viewed at 12” would require a minimum of 286 ppi whereas a 20x16 images viewed at 24” would require a minimum of 143 ppi when viewed at 24”. Note figures quoted can be considered to a degree moot, due to the way printers handle image data!
The commonly quoted 300 ppi is somewhat of a myth relating to inkjet printing and visual acuity. 300 ppi is the lower resolution required by Canon and HP printers and is one that some quality magazines require for offset printing. They will use lines per inch (LPI) and may quote 150 LPI as the requirement, which when translated to PPI will require a minimum of 300 ppi.
Epson as already covered require 360 ppi at the lowest resolution requirements.
Regardless of what you think you are sending to the printer in PPI your image if outside of the printers declared resolution will be resampled to the printers requirements prior to printing. So your examples of 150ppi and 250 ppi would be resampled to 300 ppi for a Canon printer or 360 ppi for Epson
---------- Post added 04-23-21 at 11:17 AM ----------
Not really anything to do with rules of thumb, as has already been covered in depth
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Forum: General Photography
04-23-2021, 03:49 AM
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Rubber band trick usually works if you have nothing better to hand
Start at 1:30 to see in action on polariser
Youtu.be
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src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/A89HP625WcU?controls=1" allowfullscreen>
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Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
04-23-2021, 03:14 AM
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I would be wary of taking figures from a website that confuses printers DPI with a printers required resolution which is measured in PPI and is really the most relevant measure of resolution. And further compounds confusion by stating that they can be viewed as being the same - they are not!
Calculation for the required PPI can be made by using this formula:
PPI = 1/((distance x 0.000291) / 2)
An easier to remember method is to take 3438 and divide by the viewing distance. Therefore at a viewing distance of 12” a minimum resolution equal to 286.5 PPI is required.
When considering PPI requirements based on these calculations there are some points to consider:
1. The figures quoted are based on your average print being viewed under average lighting conditions. These figures can easily be doubled for ideal viewing conditions (e.g. exhibition lighting) and images containing great detail.
2. Be aware of false precision. The above 286.5 PPI is an example, it should only be taken as a rough guide to what may be required as a minimum
3. For optimal results the PPI requirements of the printer should be used regardless of native PPI of your image at your required print size. Epson 360/720 ppi, Canon/HP/Fuji 300/600 ppi
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Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
04-21-2021, 03:30 PM
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The first thing you may be observing is as identified related to the difference in monitor resolution vs print resolution. Assuming that your printer native resolution is 300 ppi, you will probably be viewing on a monitor of around 100 ppi so you are starting with a disadvantage as you cannot view at 1:1. Additionally you are probably trying to judge Sharpening at a zoom factor of 100% which is equivalent to a 3x enlargement factor to a print
On top of this when ink is laid down on paper the pixel size varies due to factors such as paper absorption and ink spread. Even though 300ppi may be the quoted resolution it must be remembered that each pixel will be comprised of several drops of ink (DPI) to form a specific colour. Therefore it is not too surprising that halos disappear or at least appear to do so in print.
To paraphrase a leading Adobe guru, ‘good sharpening consists of halos that everybody sees but nobody notices’.
Good, neutral B&W can be difficult to achieve for many labs. Even when you convert your image to greyscale your lab will be printing via a colour system using colour ink as well as black, light black and grey.
Paper base white is also important. Many papers include OBA’s which will make whites appear whiter/bluer and so called neutral papers may actually be towards warm white.
Adding a warmer tone to try and correct for perceived colour shifts at the lab is as you have found not ideal as it will have to add warm tone to the paper white in highlight areas and of course if you have borders no ink applied. A solution could be to print as borderless but include a false border made within the image area.
Other than that the best solution will be a dedicated B&W print solution such as Jon Cones Piezography System.
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Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
04-18-2021, 03:45 AM
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I am sure your assesment of the printer is more accurate than my guesses. It may be that the different Canon models have different requirements and I would assume that the pigment ink systems likely to trigger more cleaning cycles due to the nature of the medium.
EDIT:I think I may be wrong about printing a nozzle check will hold of the cleaning cycles, at least for Canon (some?). It may be that the cleaning cycle will be triggered automatically according to the internal timers and this may be 120 hours and not based on when a real print was made?
http://ddisoftware.com/tech/printers/canon-pixma-pro-100s-cleaning-cycles/ |
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Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
04-17-2021, 03:51 AM
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My understanding of Canon printers (pro, semi pro) is that they will automatically perform cleaning cycles if your printer is idle for more than 60 hours. Additionally each doubling of the idle times doubles the amount of ink wasted.
Having to do a deep clean may actually use up to 2 ml of ink (this is a guess on my part!) compared to the relatively miniscule amount used for printing a nozzle check (may be 0.10 ml - another guess!)
If you can get hold of a service manual for your printer the amount of ink used for cleaning will probably be declared somewhere.
So it would seem sensible to use a little ink often, (e.g. print a nozzle check inbetween timer settings) to save triggering deeper cleaning cycles. This should actually save ink costs in the long run.
One of the problems associated with cleaning cycles is that often there are only one or two colours where the heads are causing issues, but the printer system does not allow individual colour purge but purges all heads. One way around this may be to use printer purge files which only purge the individual channels. One such supplier is Marrutt and some specialist printing software such as Qimage have the same function.
Marrutt printer purge files
https://www.marruttusa.com/printer-maintenance/inkjet-printer-purge-files.php |
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
04-16-2021, 07:44 AM
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AFAIK RT expects these profiles to be already present on your system. If this is the case and you do not have the various working spaces installed you may find this link useful chromasoft - ICM Profiles
I assume you are intending to export as a 16 bit TIFF to enable pixel level edits prior to outputting to a specific device. In that case staying 16 bit Prophoto makes sense.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
04-15-2021, 01:00 PM
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Correct me if I am wrong but your Pentax pixel shift files are already DNG? If not they will need to be converted and Adobe has the free Adobe DNG converter.
Keep in mind that the profiles are actually Digital Camera Profiles (.dcp) that are produced from your DNG captures - not DNG files
RT will use .dcp camera profiles that can be produced from your Pentax DNG's and I would suggest using this rather than the basic X - Rite modules.
Do a search for Adobe DNG Profile editor 1.0.4 (I think this is the last version) and download together with intruction PDF. Shoot your Pixel Shift as DNG and use the Adobe product to make your profiles
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