Forum: Lens Clubs
03-19-2013, 05:27 AM
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You have to remember in low light you are usually doing a lot of things at the same time that all fight or are contrary to sharp images.
You often shoot wide open, with narrow DofF , you shoot slow shutter speeds that leave you with either camera shake or subject motion blurr, or both, and often as well higher ISO where sensor performance is not like you may want in terms of sharpness
A mat focusing screen would help because the stock screen is not really good at giving reliable sharpness and DofF at below about F5.6 because that is what the kit lenses and many consumer zooms are. The stock screen is somewhat optimized for that.
Personally, I use a split image screen, but with my K10 I could get excellent results focusing even with the stock screen.
I have not tried using the 85/1.4 on my newer K7 and K5 as I use the K10 and *istD for manual glass
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Forum: Lens Clubs
03-18-2013, 03:05 PM
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The main thing I believe you are doing wrong is using the "red square in the viewfinder" as focus assist IT IS NOT. The green hexagon at the bottom is the focus indication, the red square is merely indicating what focus sensor you are using
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Forum: Lens Clubs
08-01-2012, 03:39 PM
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I have pro optic 8mm and Vivitar 13/2.8 and 85/1.4. Aside from aesthetics, I can't tell any difference in either coatings or optical quality. There were some rumors that the Vivitar could potentially have different coatings but I don't buy that one
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Forum: Lens Clubs
11-20-2011, 10:47 AM
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It's not just Av mode, it is all exposure modes AND all flash modes. Don't forget flash
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Forum: Lens Clubs
09-08-2011, 04:56 AM
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Not to worry we like anything samyang including all the rebadged lenses
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Forum: Lens Clubs
08-21-2011, 10:50 AM
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I actually don't plan to do a heads up comparison.
One of the things I like to do is interior shots, and this is where the speed of the 14mm will come in, but in some areas, when doing outdoor shots, the10mm of the sigma is a definite advantage. Note my sigma is the older F4-5.6 version, so it really is quite slow for indoor shots, which in the past I managed by boosting ISO.
The two are not really interchangeable in my mind but just refining what I need
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Forum: Lens Clubs
08-20-2011, 04:29 PM
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i have both and will be taking both on a trip soon. The FOV of the sigma has always appealed to me, but the speed of the samyang is why I got it. If you really want wide put the samyang on a film body. I have posted shots using the samyang on my PZ-1
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Forum: Lens Clubs
06-14-2011, 06:54 PM
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Siblys is a printed book but there is also an IPod app. I have both. It is not cheap, I think the app is $20 but well worth it
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Forum: Lens Clubs
06-14-2011, 04:28 AM
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Photolady
The second bird is an immature snowy egret. I use siblys guide as it is the only guide I have found that displays not only adult birds but also immature ones. The combination of leg and bill color is the key to identifying white herons and egrets
As for who made samyang lenses, why samyang of course. They make lenses marketed under many other names but they do not to my knowledge put their name on anything bit their lenses. That is part of why I started this club. Users of bower, proOptic, vivitar etc can all post here
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Forum: Lens Clubs
05-13-2011, 05:45 PM
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What has impressed me with both the 8pm and the 14mm is the coatings and flare resistance when shooting into the sun
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Forum: Lens Clubs
04-29-2011, 05:26 PM
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It is a no brainer I started shooting pentax In 1981. I have everything I ever bought. The PZ-1 is just the newest film body and arguably one of pentax's best ever
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Forum: Lens Clubs
04-29-2011, 12:26 PM
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I use my 14mmF2.8 on my PZ-1 as well as my digital bodies. How much more "full frame" do you need?
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Forum: Lens Clubs
04-28-2011, 12:54 PM
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Not really. Just landed an M35F2 to go with my S-M-C tak 35F2. I bought the 85, 14 and 8mm all because they were cheaper than anything else I could get in legacy glass that was close in aperture at the focal length, the 35F1.4 is different, although I will admit I have found the IQ from th eother recient offerings to be excellent
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Forum: Lens Clubs
03-26-2011, 11:25 AM
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Now for the really wide shot
Vivitar 13mmF2.8 from my PZ-1 full frame shot at 3200ISO
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Forum: Lens Clubs
03-24-2011, 04:27 AM
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the bower spec's out the same. What I intend to do at some point is take the vivitar I own and do a set of tests to calculate the FL. It might be that due to distortion differences between the FOV on full frame and digital that you can call this either 13 or 14 mm depending on how much of the frame you use for the measurement
As for distortion I use corel PSP and it also has barrel distortion correction but not mustash correction, at least directly, however with the distortion stretch etc, it might be possible. I think, however that the mustash distortion is a second order effect that is unlikely to be picked up unless you are using a ruler on a large print. My approach would be to leave just a little barrel distortion so that you do not see the mustash distortion, or if possible, apply different correction or distortion inside or outside a selection zone.
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Forum: Lens Clubs
03-22-2011, 07:23 PM
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Nope. Just here on the forum
I like the 85 focal length for street portraits. It is long enough, considering the crop factor to avoid being in someone's face but not so long that you are a mile away and have to deal with a lot of people between you and the subject
This was shot in Paris not quite 2 years ago. Like most cities you donate a few coins when you take a shot
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Forum: Lens Clubs
03-22-2011, 04:13 PM
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Thanks
I have mixed reviews from the shot
Some purists who own the 77 limited complain it does not "pop" others love the mood and flat lift ing from the overcast day
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Forum: Lens Clubs
03-22-2011, 12:01 PM
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Thanks. Now go out and spend. Actually I got these because you can't get these focal lengths in legacy lenses at the price. Although after I got the 85 I tripped over a super tak 85/1.9 for 200. I did what anyone with LBA would do of course
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Forum: Lens Clubs
03-22-2011, 11:50 AM
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Funny but I would have thought there were more of us of out there
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Forum: Lens Clubs
03-19-2011, 05:45 PM
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this lens in the B&H online catalog had initially shown a different lens design than the 14mm Bower (samyang et. al.) I could not get a good answer on line from Ask B&H but in visiting the store and looking at the actual specifications it is the same as the standard Samyang lens 14 elements and 12 groups not 16/13 as initially posted.
What I like about this lens is that there is very little CA noticable in the shots, even wide open. It covers a full frame viewfinder with no visible vignetting (I will have shots next week from my PZ-1 as well.
You can see the distortion at the top and bottom of the frame, but this is easily corrected if you want to remove it
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Forum: Lens Clubs
03-19-2011, 05:36 PM
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These have been posted before but this is a fitting home for them
@F2.2)
100% crop from above shot |
Forum: Lens Clubs
03-19-2011, 01:35 PM
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here is an offering from the 8mm fisheye. Branded Pro-Optic (from Adorama)
I think the fisheye performs very well for flare considering how hard it is to keep the sun out of the frame |
Forum: Lens Clubs
03-19-2011, 01:31 PM
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I thought I would start this club, and I will be posting photos soon from my new addition to my collection, the Vivitar 13mmF2.8 (AKA samyanf 14mmF2.8, Bower etc...)
I also have the 8mmFisheye and 85mmF1.4 and was suprised to see no one has yet started a club for these lenses.
So here it is.
Hopefully the moderators will move this to the lens club forum:D
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